Fish and quips

Recovery from the trauma of our return journey took a few days! During the three weeks up until Chloe's arrival we have mostly doing very little - Bob renewed his gym membership and Ruth has been a guest on Fridays on Eileen's show on Hot FM. There is even a risk that she will learn about the knobs and go solo. As it is she has been taking in and talking about her themed playlists. Great fun!

Whilst talking to Eileen one day we mentioned that we liked mackerel and next day her partner Chris turned up at Africa's shack with two shiny caballas. (not caballos - which is horses!) As our resident "Chris the Fish" he knows a thing or two about such things and had just caught three. He stood in the shallows to gut and clean them, as all the fishermen here do. They were very tasty baked in foil for twenty minutes with lemon juice and plenty of pepper!

Meanwhile Corralejo's street refurbishment is nearly complete, and we have our first ever wind turbines - two of them near the desalination plant. If they had been in service they would have been busy over the last couple of weeks.! The weather changed on 29th November and we have had some funny weather - including the unusual South wind, and some downpours. There have been a lot of converstions around "Yes, but look at the UK!" Quite so!

The Joys of Travel - Not!

After our jolly family day things went rapidly downhill! The next day was Bob's birthday so we were meeting Chloe in Brighton. Bob had arranged an eye test with Specsavers as he needed to order new galasses. He turned up for the appointment, but was told the NHS wouldn't pay for it because he had been examined earlier in the year in Fuerteventura. The weather was atrocious with wind and driving rain, but we traipsed round every optician in the city looking for someone who would do one, and fuming about unhelpful regulations. Eventually we returned to Specsavers and used the Spanish prescription. Lunch was to have been fish and chips on the pier. The pier was closed because of the huge waves lashing. So that was off, and instead we sat in Harry Ramsden's watching the weather!

Eventually we met Chloe in the supermarket and bought her some supplies, then went back to her house for introductions to house-mates. The evening with her and new beau Ben was fun but we stayed late in the Italian and when we reached the station (long wet uphill walk!) the last train had already gone. A helpful employee said there was a solution - so we took it! This meant a long wet downhill walk to the coach terminus and a depressing wait until the 1 am service to Gatwick Airport, where we had another miserable wait for a night train to East Croydon.

Next day we went to Balham to do some business and then abandoned any plans for activities in Central London because the weather and our spirits were so damp. We got ourselves to Victoria Coach Station and eventually boarded a coach to Stansted Airport, after an argument on behalf of ourselves and a number of foreign tourists with a driver who maintained our tickets were for the previous service (which had never turned up!). This is,in fact, a very useful, efficient and cheap service, (there is even a half-fare for the over-60's), but it doesn't feel like it as you crawl up through North London. We had an early supper in the Irish pub at the airport, then took the shuttle to the Holiday Inn Express. This is also useful and cheapish, as well as comfortable.

We were up at 4am for the shuttle back to the airport, and a quick Easyjet check-in with no baggage weight problems:- straight through security, the day's papers and a coffee - so far so good! There were warning notices about the time time taken to get to some gates, so when ours was put up we set off, only to to discover that we needed to use the shuttle. This runs every 3 minutes and should have two coaches, but mostly there was only one, and Bob had a severe attack of claustrophobia when he saw the crowding. (A huge number of flights leave between 7 and 9am!) Ruth went on ahead without passport or boarding card. Eventually, after a great deal of frustration trying to deal with both Easyjet and BAA staff, Bob was brought in a vehicle, but 5 minutes too late. So.... we missed the flight! Bags were off-loaded but lost somewhere in the system and we were told to wait to be accompanied back to Arrivals. This took ages and meanwhile we saw that there was a virtually empty Thomas Cook flight going to Fuerteventura, but unavailable to us!

We were led back through staff doors and onto the (empty) shuttle, and found the bags. Easyjet declined all responsibility (as did BAA) but could sell us a ticket for the Saturday (3 days on!). We opted to go back to Gatwick on a three hour coach journey to catch an afternoon flight to Gran Canaria. This worked but was very stressful! Fortunately we know Las Palmas airport so went straight to the right area for inter-island flights and got ourselves onto the 19.30. Buses worked except that at this time of day they don't go down to the ferry, so we had a bit of a trek from the bus station. We were home by 10pm - just 18 hours since we started (and a few pounds and euros the poorer!)

GC and GB:- roving again!

We left Furete on 6th November - bound for Gran Canaria on a cheap residents' air ticket. The plan was to stay on the island for two weeks before going back to UK for Ruth's Mum's 80th birthday party. With clients in the Corralejo apartment and a bargain accommodation deal for us this was virtually a free holiday!


We spent 11 days in what has become a regular haunt in Maspalomas. The weather was very good indeed. We swam in the pool at the complex and had two beautiful days down on the dunes including dips in the sea. Our little bungalow was basic but comfortable - so much so that we had daily visits from a very affectionate local cat! In general GC seemed less adversely affected by a drop in tourism. Certainly the main beach was heaving when we were there, with no spare sunbeds and busy beach bars. On a couple of days it was too windy to be pleasant on the beach, but we "did" the Maspalomas market with bratwurst lunch, and Bob hired a bike for assorted rides.


We think, however, that the dreaded All-Inclusive deals are as devastating to small businesses as in Corralejo. Over in the tourist mall near us there was desperation to drag in diners, and even more empty premises than last time we visited.



In "Holiday World" - a fairground and amusement arcade nearby they lit the lights and ran the rides, but punters rattled around.

On the second Sunday we took a northbound bus to Bahia Feliz, so that Bob could take out a sea kayak. He had done so in Corralejo harbour in October - complete with falling in the water when trying to get out! The resort itself is totally forgetable:- minimal beach, uninteresting restaurants and no Spanish visitors or residents! Bob a had a good ride out though in both directions. We gave up on finding a "charming little Spanish spot for something tasty for lunch", and walked back down the coast to a better spot before taking the bus back to Playa del Ingles.


By the next day all the talk was of the looming storm! Tenerife took the brunt on the Monday itself. GC had cloud and wind. As we checked out of the complex next day the receptionist said that Las Palmas was suffering badly. There was evidently some disruption to transport as we had to wait a long time for a bus, and when we eventually arrived there was a lot of standing water. It seems we missed the flooding of one of the Las Palmas bus stations by a matter of hours.

We stayed three nights in our "usual" hotel just off of Carateras beach. The weather was absurdly changeable;- at times around 32 deg C, and then suddenly heavy cloud cover with the threat of rain, which barely happened. Sun umbrellas went up and down, whist chair cushions went in and out! Out on the delightful promenade we encountered again the fisherman cleaning his catch. He could easily have been one of the "live statues", but is in fact a very convincing inert one. The plaque speaks of the need to be always living near the sea:- a sentiment we share!

We spent time up on the hotel's top floor following weather developments on the laptop, and researching Fiat dealers in the city. We will soon have to decide whether to buy a new car in UK or GC. The ins-and-outs of this are tortuous, but we thought we might make some progress if we visited a showroom and discussed prices and procedures. (It is said to be more complicated to buy a car than a property in Spain!) We looked up where to go and which urban bus (guagua - pronounced wahwah!) we needed. We waited a long time at a bus stop where it was stated one would stop, but then we decided to check on this by looking at the network map pasted in the bus-shelter :- completely different from the one we had picked up from the bus station the day before! Grrrrr! - especially as we could not find a stop for the alleged service.We walked and walked in hot sun and as the 1pm watershed loomed. At a bus interchange we asked and found out that our map was right and the one on the shelter wrong. He recommended carrying on walking! As time was no getting critical we abandonned for the day! Next day we got to the premises (on a tiny bus that first did a circuitous route round the residential heights). The bus driver said it was a SEAT place, but there was a also a large FIAT sign to lead us there. Rejoice! Except that it didn't sell Fiats - just repairs and service! The salesman showed us a map of the city and pointed out another place at the other end of the city. (Las Palmas is the 5th largest in Spain apparently) Off we go on more buses - thankfully at only 68 centimos per ride. The traffic was so bad as lunchtime approached that in the end we got off and abandoned our plans! We went for a walk in the San Telmo area and saw an exhibition promoting Gran Canaria's plans for a high speed train. One can only hope that the information on its services is more efficient than for the guaguas.

After a pleasant three days including dinner at Galia - the magnificent French restaurant - but the discovery that the Brasilian rodizio we also wanted to visit was gone without trace, we set off on an evening Easyjet flight to Gatwick. The fear had been of the cold:- we don't have many winter clothes in Fuerte! In fact it was quite mild for the five days we were in UK. It was just very, very wet and windy!

We stayed four nights on the 10th floor of the Croydon Travelodge. From there we visited the properties in Morden and Balham, consumed plenty of real ale (one of only about three things we really miss about England!) and stocked up on teabags and sauces. On the Sunday we went by train to Hampshire, with Chloe hopping on the train at Hove. There were 13 people from four generations at the restaurant for Viv's 80th birthday celebration - including four boys under six. This was a total attendance of all offspring and partners, and worth the journey! (House policy means no family photos posted :- if you know our e-mail, ask and ye shall be given!)

Corralejo - compare and contrast!

Our summer in Paleochora was

characterised by:

• Unseasonal weather
• Stupid tourism planning decisions
• Disruptive digging-up of key streets

Our first three weeks in Corralejo featured... Yes!

On the first evening we ventured out having forgotten the plans published in March to re-pave much of the old town. We aimed for the Chinese restaurant in the cobbled street skirting round Blue Rock to avoid being drawn in. There was no Chinese! and Blue Rock was very closed and hidden behind a digger! It seems the "prettification" has been very badly handled - costing local small businesses dearly and the promised outcomes of uniformity are not much-wanted by anyone except the council. Heard that before?
Over the period progress was made with fancy and varied tiles being laid and the new sun canopies, windbreaks and lighting being brought in. Blue Rock re-opened just before we left for our break, and we had the honour of being the first to be served!
Meanwhile the level of tourism has been causing much distress! Rumours about the return of Ryanair have come and gone, and without these flights and whilst some new Monarch and Easyjet ones were awaited the town was quiet! Restaurants have been worst hit. A couple of days into our time we set off for a beautiful Argentinian steak at Mirando Al Sur. Closed down!

Here - for absent friends - is the toll over the summer:
Mirando - gone and the grill man is working at La Tasca (untried)
Las Piratas (formerly Telegraf/Oscars) gone - and Tio Barnabe has moved up the cobble street into its corner site.
Rendez-Vous gone and a very sad little French creperie is in its place
Slow Boat 1 and 2 both gone, but the Chinese inside the commercial cente has expanded and has a good name for its hot wok service and added Japanese dishes.
La Fragata - by the harbour - gone, and a new Indian is in its premises
Taj Mahal - gone!
Hemingways - near Hiperdino - gone!
Piri-Piri (Alviro's place in the old Blue Jeans site) gone!
Sundowner gone - probably a result of the closure of Corralejo Gardens hotel!

... and our own locale has never re-opened.

Meanwhile the raving incompetence of tourism planners continues to amaze! The two provinces of the Canaries have come to together to promote the whole archipelago and UK TV currently features an ad in dubious taste with a polar bear in it, and 100 young people have been sent to "new" potential sources of holidaymakers - starting with Iceland!! Iceland? Wasn't there some financial problem there??


Anyway! Events during our first spell included the International Kite Festival down on the dunes, Halloween - always fun here, (Jules had his Sweeny Todd butcher kit!) and the SUP festival! We were sitting as usual at Africa's shack and spotted nautical activity we didn't recognise - some canoes were there, and strong swimmers, and an ambulance was in attendance. SUP is "Stand Up and Paddle", which is self-explanatory. Also one evening we saw and heard small fireworks being let off in the High Street. As we passed one of the electronics & ciggies shops run by Indian families we caught the eye of someone and so wished them a good Diwali. We were invited in for sweets and soft drinks. We could have had a whole veggie meal. We were very honoured.


And what about the weather?


Absolutely wonderful! October and November have been the warmest, sunniest and least windy in living memory. On two Sundays in three we went down to the big beach and went in the sea, which was warmish. Temperatures were often well into the 30s mid-afternoon, and we used our own pool too! There was one morning of rain - but hey! We didn't do much else in these three weeks - there were no real issues in the apartment. We did buy a new TV and get the new faster internet service sorted. Time flew and it was soon time to move on. We set off on November 6th.

On the Road Again - following the sun!

This year's autumnal migration took two weeks and began with crossings on the same three ferry routes as last year, so the first leg was driving up to Chania. There we did some stocking up with provisions for the expedition and then went for a late lunch at our favourite fish restaurant beside the Nea Hora. Amongst other things they do lovely little shrimp pies, and you always get a free dessert. Unfortunately we can't give it a well-deserved free "plug" because we can never remember what it is called!

Then we went to the port at Souda and boarded early on the ANEK ferry Lato. The company is the only one doing the route, which is a shame as we are coming to dislike it! Of the three ferries we use it is by far the most expensive yet also very much the shortest crossing. The boats are badly laid out, with too few loos, too many stairs and not enough lifts, and disembarkation is totally shambolic! Anyway we survived and even got out of Piraeus with only one small navigational error. (There is a crucial left turn for Corinth which has an invisible sign!)
Same old bad road to Patras, but lovely weather and good progress so that we were in the town with hours to kill and usual paranoia about leaving the car unattended! A clever wheeze! We went to the beachside out-of-town hotel we used on the way down, where we relaxed with a drink and the free WiFi! Later as we waited further but inside the port enclosure we met a British trucker who drives weekly from Leicester to Corinth and back. Interesting! We discussed port security and it is clear that there has been a very heavy clamping down on the migrants trying to get to Italy. They are still very evident on the streets, but we didn't see any inside the fences, let alone in or on trucks. Our Agoudimos crossing to Bari was uneventful and comfortable as well as being excellent value. The ship has numerous power outlets with Japanese configuration so there was healthy competition for the few European sockets in public areas , and the food is a bit grim and beer over-priced, but still much preferred to ANEK!

The next ferry has been re-timed so it would be possible to get across Italy without having to spend a night in a hotel, but we had been cautious and so had pre-booked at a great price for the Gran Hotel Italiano in Benevento. This gave us a fairly calm drive over the mountains and a very convenient location in terms of the two Autostrada that make up the route from Patras to Civitavecchia. It was also sunny most of the way - but by the time we were getting lost in the town it was raining!

The nice man offered us a grand suite but with no internet access, so we took another perfectly adequte room with LAN connection - just as well as going for a walking trip round the town was out of the question in the downpour! An afternoon with a very disgruntled laptop and the BBC i-player, followed by a superb E20 table d'hote dinner! Next day was much brighter and we were able to do the tour round this interesting town which is in two parts and has Roman remains.
Then we drove to Civitavecchia - a warm Saturday so fairly heavy traffic and crowded service areas, but a fairly straightforward journey! We sat at one of the seaside cafes within sight of the parked car in warm sun watching many parties from the two cruise ships that were at the port. One was a P&O and the overheard snippet of the afternoon was "Well - it isn't Margate!" We had a lot of time to kill and after getting to the Phillipino seamen's centre just as it was closing we had to find another internet centre. There we were amazed to be able to wrestle with Spanish Telefonica's appalling website and contorted database and get in an order on the last day of their 6Mb broadband offer. We could barely believe it when a confirmation e-mail came back! Knowing how complicated the ferry queueing is we went down to the port as the sun set - only to discover that there was a delay of at least two hours and we would not be boarding until 10.30. We know the passenger terminal pretty well now - and there is not a lot there to amuse:- departure of cruise ships, maybe? When we did emark we were one of the first, there was plenty of space and a nice porter helped us to our cabin. Unfortunately we forgot to note even the deck level we were on which caused grief next evening! The two ships on this route are new and very luxurious. We had a fairly good cabin but the air-conditioning was a bit fierce and gave R a cold. The long day voyage was spent reading and doing things on the laptop, culminating in watching The Lives of Others - a slightly weird experience as at points we couldn't hear the German dialogue of this excellent film set in cold war Berlin because of the loud anti-social behaviour of the Russian tourists nearby.

We had booked two nights at hotel just outside Barcelona city but with parking and easy travel into the city. We had been due to dock at 6.30 pm. We arrived at about 8pm and then had a hellish experience failing to find the car. We didn't know the deck (our fault) we got caught in enormous coach party confused throngs, we couldn't see past tightly packed juggernauts and lost each other. There was a lot of stress and shouting in Spanish and English at Italian staff. But we made it- and finding the excellent Hotel Canal Olimpic Hotel in Castelldefels was remarkably easy. It is right beside the waterway built for the Olympic Games. Next day we took a bus into the city for 1.25 each, and saw a few sights on the way. It was 33 degrees in Barcelona at midday. We walked around a bit from Plaza Catalunya - including, of course, going down the Ramblas. It was here that we made Silly Tourist Mistake no 2 in 48 hours. Lunchtime - plenty of acceptable deals on drinks and snacks available in both Ramblas and indoor market - but no! We don't want to over-pay so we go down a side street and find a small place with tempting baguettes and cold beer. We have a long lunch of two of each. We then become aware that every time someone paid a bill they queried it and went away distressed. Finally a large group of Latin Americans did it all but more volubly and threatened the staff with the police. A large beer was 8 Euros - a baguette 6 Euros! No price list in sight anywhere. What a pair of idiots! A bad taste left in the mouth- and couldn't bear to look in a Subway outlet!

Nonetheless we had fun walking randomly by the port and in the backstreets. The port has changed in 23 years - with an imposing hotel and a pedestrian walkway! We went back on the ridiculously cheap bus, had a rather poor but cheap dinner at the hotel, and next day went for a bike ride around the area - which includes a very sound beach - before setting off south for our next booked stay.

This was a spacious apartment slap-bang on the seafront on the Costa Dorada at a non-descript place called Vilafortuny beteween Salou and Cambrils. We paid £23 per night for this - so quite a bargain. We stayed six nights and had excellent weather throughout. Quite a few places were closed for the season, and what was open was very Brit-orientated so we didn't eat particularly well in the evenings; but both Salou and Cambrils were a flat bike ride away of about 3km. Salou is very much larger and cosmopolitan (a McDonalds!). Cambrils is delightful, with a small harbour and some excellent little bars and restaurants. It is much more Spanish and interesting,
On the last day we cleared the car and re-packed. The drive to Girona airport was particularly easy as it was a Bank Holiday. Lovely Margarita at Punt Central took the car from us promising a winter fully undercover and drove us to the bus stop. We took the coach to the bus station in Barcelona and had a bit of a crisis about use of the Metro to get out to the airport and our hotel. It is only a couple of stops to Sants where you pick up the line you need. There are three very long and steep staircases to get down to the trains at the nearest station to the bus station. They are currently installing lifts, but this was no help to us with our luggage. A very helpful lady watched our bags whilst we carried them down together, and then it was easy! We rang the hotel and a free shuttle bus was sent for us.
















We spent the night a yet another bargain hotel from bookings.com. It was the Frontair Congress near the airport on a huge shopping park. We had a great dinner there and then a free shuttle in the morning. We were booked on an Air Europa flight advertised as going from the old terminals, but we checked online and found it had been consolidated with a Spanair flight from the spanking new Terminal 1. Rather impressive, (and as we had a lower price and larger baggage allowance we were laughing!) We flew to Gran Canaria, and then had a very long wait due to over-cautious planning. We managed to watch an episode of The Sopranos at the gate!
After landing we were lucky with buses and were back in the apartment by 19.45 on Tuesday 13th October - almost six months since we left.

At last:- Seeing out Summer in Paleo!

Well -this is a bit delayed as a posting! We left Paleochora on 30th September - four months after arriving. There were some nice days in late September, and the graph shows it was a pretty good month compared to the others, and we were swimming in the sea up until the last day.





Down on the beach there was no progress with the new cantina! Work had started in late July nd we expected an opening for August, and then for the 15th holiday, and then for September - but no! This shell on the beach is no further on, and will obviously deteriorate over the winter - so a mystery! Rumours suggest the potential lessee could not get hold of the requisite mobile cantina vehicle . A second year without a meeting point and care of the surroundings has had a bad effect, and spoils the beach experience. There was definitely less business on the beach this year in any case. Expansion in Scandawegians - especially Finns! Brits down but significant! Busy weekends with Greeks!

Ruth had a small beach-related accident which cramped style for a few days:- strolling along the shore she deviated to avoid a sandcastle and fell into the soft sand of its filled moat! Face first down and a badly sprained foot! The offending structure got a hefty kick - What a place to put a sandcastle!

And on the subject of regular summer things - whatever happened to the Yia-Yia Gaga Club? Well, what with shorter stays (Sam and Catherine), displaced holiday (Eva), multiple guests (Jim and Susan) and trip to UK (us) and combinations thereof (Julia and Eion) - we were never quorate so the AGM didn't take place! There is a three-line whip on the 2010 meeting (first week of August - Yianni's Place!)

Sheep and Goats

The week from 8th to 15th September was a very bad one to have chosen for a holiday in SW Crete! It started with heavy cloud and a slightly chilly wind. Not beach weather at all, and we went over to "season end" mode with interesting lunches. One such was a delicious offering at the newish taverna whose name we can't pronounce:- Meth-something. Afterwards we walked round the headland and saw a pair of goats tethered to give them access to the overflowing and upturned rubbish bins. This did not help Bob's aversion to goat meat!

.. which leads on to yesterday's little jape!

Azogires is a small but famous village high in the hills above Paleochora - 10 kilometres from the Chania road. We haven't been for years but have heard many tales of the goings-on up there - most especially at the Alpha kafenion where Lucky reigns. Good old Mick volunteered to drive us and Jeff up for a few hours of mountain air and culture!
Soon after arrival we were joined by a huge, old and very smelly ram with a bell. Lucky explained to German tourists that he has eleven ewes to service - and he does indeed have most impressive gonads! His name is Gerios or similar meaning "old man" - but also gets mentions on the Paleochora site as being Michael Jackson in disguise! Lucky spent a long time scratching his (the ram's!) most prominent features. After that we served ourselves!

A delightful excursion and so cheap - 16 bottles of beer for 15 euros!

oh - and the weather... storms through Thursday and Friday then overcast, chilly wind. Back on the beach today, though!

Wedding of the Year

A couple of weeks ago we were honoured to attend the wedding of Stephanie and Leon. Actually there was no great selection process involved - this was a Greek "open" wedding at which 1500 guests were anticipated!

We have known Stephanie for about 15 years, She lives in the village and mother Vicky is British-born. She married Leon (of Jamaican heritage) whom she met when studying in the UK.

The Church bit started at 6.30 and we decided to watch the arrivals from the comfort of outside Cosmogonia. En route there from the beach we passed the main car being decorated by the florist.

The path from gate to church was also decorated in ivory and gold, and there were glorious dresses and Leon looking elegant in a totally white outfit. We didn't go in but went back home to change. On the way back to the church we passed the priest (one of our neighbours) and thought we might have missed the ending - but far from it! The marriage was followed by the baptism of their daughter Anastasia:- which from the sound of it she did not like!
Eventually there was a drifting off of guests and we collected our bag of almonds and went to kill time before going up to the reception in Koundouras.

Most weddings end up in the huge function hall there. It has been recently renovated and can allegedly cope with 3000 guests. The procedures and menu are always the same. We joined a "foreigners'" table on which were all the things that could be placed in advance:- wine, water, tsikoudia, sticky cakes, sweet bread, cheese pies, cheese and nuts. (Invited guests were on their own tables - we saw staff from the bank, supermarkets, several restaurants, and other businesses.)

Then came some meat :- we were expecting goat liver but it was ordinary goat. The waiters have to navigate around densely packed tables and they work in pairs - with one carrying a huge tray above his head, and the other doing the removal and placing of plates. It was then hours before the wedding couple and attendants arrived. After a grand entrance we all queued up to shake all the hands and hand over the gift envelope. (Contrary to what is often described these are put in a basket - not pinned to the dress!)
The meal continued with goat and lovely creamy and lemony pilafi, then salad, lamb and potatoes, and fruit. The wine was free-flowing and the couple, parents and best man and woman toured every table to drink a toast with all. Then dancing and singing. We left at about 2am!

Euro-bites

After our return we found ourselves in a social whirl! So many regulars were here for their couple of weeks and there were mulitiple invitations.

Among the "regulars" are Ludovico and Walter from Milan also keen readers of this blog! Ludovico lost a crown from a front tooth whilst here, and knew about Dimitri the Dentist's fine work after Ruth's little laptop accident. He too went to Dimitri and is here showing the world what good job was done! (He was charged 10 Euros more, though! - must be because he is Italian!)

On Sunday 23rd there was a real Euro-soiree laid on by Parisienne Marie-Yvonne (spelling probably wrong here!) to celebrate belatedly a very significant birthday and her acquisition of a yearly lease on an apartment near us.

Guests were almost equally divided between French, Italian, Greek and British, and there was some pretty silly behaviour - mostly from some of the Italian contingent!

Here is the hostess with little Opaline!

We finally got round to wearing the Club T-shirts - which were supposed to be printed in April in Fuerteventura. The nasty Spanish transfer sheets we used are not recommended. Next year we will use a professional printer!

Here are the front and back designs - uniquely amateur but all our own work!

Time out - Meanwhile back at the Ranch

Well - that says it all! This is part of the historical scholarship of "Nogbad the Improbable", who also posts on The Paleochora Site. It seems it/he was also very windy in our absence. You may agree after reading this that the boy needs therapy!

Time Out - From Beach to Field

What a line-up!
.. and with perfect timing it would mean absence from Paleo over the dreaded Aug 15th holiday, so that is what we did!
Meticulous planning for cheapest travel and overnights plus minimal packing - and by Thursday lunchtime we were at Gatwick railway station. Network Rail were very helpful in re-issuing the tickets after the wallet theft and we had a smooth ride via Reading to Banbury, then the nice taxi man took us to a back entrance and we were able to pitch the kids' tent in a very convenient field that was theoretically full but OK with no vehicle - nice and easy to erect!

On the train we had received an SMS from NZ Mike and daughter Sophia saying they were already there. We saw them several times over the weekend , as well as Richard, Annie and Joel - that's all as in Cosmogonia strumming 2008 and Yanni's Place strumming earlier this summer, so Paleo was well-represented!


We saw about a half of these acts - plus Yusef Islam ("Cat Stevens") as guest star on the last night. Otherwise we were out and about in the village (see next/following blog)

There is a wonderful account from (sorry) The Telegraph! We will "spoil it" by enhancing her report on the Ade spoof of Steeleye Span's "All around my Hat"
"If anyone should ask me........ It's my ****ing business! It's my ****ing hat!"

Seth Lakeman and Dreadzone were new to us and we are now firm fans. Winwood disappointed some who had wanted more from the Traffic era - which he did deliver after they'd gone home. Richard Thompson was superb.

The "demographics" of the festival are very interesting! We decided the missing generation was that aged, say, 25 to 40. There were plenty of people older than us - mostly equipped with very comfortable chairs, plenty of families and plenty of groups of "young people" ("Isn't Cat Stevens the one they put a death threat on?") Several members of the latter fell onto our tent at 3 in the morning!

We had travelled very light thanks to Easyjet policies, so we were not blessed with chairs or even groundsheet, nor with catering kit. Fortunately although the dew was very heavy and the wind chilly we had only a tiny drop of rain. We found good places for "meals", and had a shower in the Cricket Pavillion. The loos were incredibly clean and well-maintained.

On Sunday morning we decamped and took the train back to East Croydon and the joys of a night in the Travelodge (32 sterling well spent!) We visited the Balham house and then went for a very nice Roast Beef at the (disastously renovated) Duke of Devonshire.

Next day we went to Brighton to help Chloe after her move into a 6-student shared house. We had a day of ringing the utilities, pushing trolleys of ex-storage stuff, B&Q purchases and Sainsbury's food up hills, followed by estate agent visit and fish and chips, and finally assembling flat-pack furniture. After that a night dossing at Gatwick airport was almost restful. (Fortunately Chloe is really happy with the place and her housemates - she just needs to find some part-time work which isn't easy!)

Finally we came back from Piraeus to Chania overnight. This time the boat was the Lato, so seats were in the huge open lounge. No prisoners this time (see June) - but "Mr Creosote" was next to Bob coughing and spluttering, so we await Swine Flu, and we are not having Air Type seats again - it's a cabin or the floor!

At Chania bus station a Brit came up to us and said "You must have been at Cropredy last weekend - wasn't it good?"

Small world or what?

Time Out - Meeting on the Ledge!

Not exactly a mosh-pit!

This was our view down to the main stage. Note the civilised and staid behaviour, with virtually no official intervention. 20, 000 people all "looking after each other" - enough to bring a tear to an ageing hippy eye! We settled outside a (the only) black guy's stall and with the sloping field got a fine view and plenty of space. (It was coincidentally rather close to the Wadworths bar!)
Another delightful features of Cropredy is the proximity to the village and the way that the locals welcome the punters.
For example there are at least four community groups offering breakfast on a fund-raising basis.

The two pubs have music for free in their gardens and we loved the offerings at both!

The Braesnose take the Fringe very seriously and had brought in a trailer to make a good stage. We saw two acts in Americana style :- the Cedars with a very strong female vocalist, and the magnificent Los Pistaleros - whose vocalist Bobby Valentino also plays the fiddle. On the Saturday the two acts were more classic rock in style and included Spank the Monkey! Fab!

..and down at the smaller Red Lion we wallowed in Englishness! The Adderbury Morris danced in the street outside and crowds gathered in the graveyard opposite. The church doesn't seem to object to this and had taped the rubbish bags to the headstones!

So with that and the real ale (ooh Hook Norton!) , nearby canal, cricket pitch, bells, vintage camping vans, sausage and bacon rolls, humorous and/or vintage rock T-shirts, Guardians outnumbering all other press and sensible public transport you could almost want to repatriate yourself. Almost!

Time Out - Missing our Marbles!

All four of us went by bus to the port at Souda on Tuesday 12th August and then took the overnight FB Eliros to Piraeus. We had booked reclining seats but the kids said it was the most uncomfortable night of their whole vagabond holiday! Whilst it was still dark we went by Metro to Syntagma Square and had breakfast whilst we waited for the Left Luggage place to open, then we walked to the Plaka and around the base of the Acropolis, follwed by a gentle climb up to the point where payment was needed. We went against the substantial tourist tide and down to the New Acropolis Museum. This is a masterpiece of architecture - built with a lot of glass - especially in the floors, and with views up to the real thing! Until December it is just 1 Euro per person to enter. There are a few grumbles about the way public behaviour is regulated, but it is an unforgettable experience! Of course the centrepiece is the top gallery where the Parthenon friezes have been reconstructed to the original layout and a wonderful view across to their original location. There is a great deal of white plaster replica to fill the spaces where the marbles abducted by Elgin should be!
Another reason to be ashamed of British citizenship!
Come on, British Museum! Give 'em back!


After several hours we were exhausted and looked in the Lonely Planet Guide for an interesting place in the Plaka for lunch. We headed past all the touting staff in the central area and found the recommended taverna - in a quiet back street. Unfortunately it is not such a good place during the day and the service and range of food was very unremarkable. Never mind - it was restful - and good for people-watching. At one point there were people there with the Lonely Planet Guides in English, French, Spanish and Italian editions. As the name of the place is not transliterated there was a lot of walking backwards and forwards before coming in - and some disappointed discussion as the reality became clear.

So - rested and marginally fed we went to the National Park for a sleep.

We remember taking Chloe there when she was little to feed the ducks. No ducks now (except in an overcrowded pen) and stagnant pond - but some rather sweet turtles in a smaller pond!

.. and some kri-kri and other creatures.

Our tempers were frayed :- we put the kids on a bus to the airport and went off to find our cheap hotel. This was near Omonia Square and pretty cheap, but the reviews on the internet warned about the rough area as well as little niggles about the facilities. In fact it was OK for one night, but with few obvious places nearby to eat. We went to a basic grill room just downstairs and watched considerable forceful police activity rounding up suspected illegals.

Next day we aimed to get a bus back to Syntagma for the airport bus and waited ages only to be told we couldn't pay cash - only tickets which were not on sale anywhere close! Grrrrr! So we used thre Metro and in the two stops involved Bob's wallet was lifted! Further Grrr! - use up mobile credit ringing to stop cards! You can go off places!