From the Med. Greyrocks headed North for more French leave. May this year has the maximum possible bank holidays, but two are on Sundays so plenty of scope for confusion over opening times and traffic conditions!
First we spent two days getting to St Germain de Confolens for a short stay at La Grange Terrou uphill from where George is renting pending completion of his new house and with whom we spent a lot of time. It was - unusually - sunny and dry, and we - once again - were made very welcome by the owners on the upmarket BandB, where the other guest was a French racing driver. With George and Gee we spent a pleasant Saturday taking lunch in Lesterps, viewing the emergent new home (not a pavillon!) and visiting the charity shop run by some of his friends. This last was a bizarre experience - rather like stepping into the same in Middle England! It was a special day with stalls being erected for a May Day fete next day. Bob and Jenny have transformed the premises into a warren of well organised rooms with vast quantities of donated books, clothes and bric-a-brac, and space for taking (English-style) tea and coffee. Ex-pats came and went, there were tales of ex-pat exploits and all the chat was in English. French customers came and went buying lampshades and unmatched golf clubs, and we had a chance to talk about where the money goes:- humanitarian truck runs from UK to crisis hotspots, the next being a second visit to Lesbos. Greyrocks having a clutter-free lifestyle left without purchasing anything, but having willing made a donation!
There is now a link between this short stay and our next one, which was in Cravant. The link is the current ubiquitous French phenomenon of the vide-grenier:- best translation "boot fair" but with more to it! Maybe it is the time year ("or maybe it's the time of Man") but villages all over were having one. The local press is full of schedules for them and great is the chaos caused in a location on their day! We had an easy drive to the old town (village) where we had booked a chalet on a small riverside site. We had a good map and it is not a large place, but it was mid-afternoon on vide-grenier day and half the roads were closed, so once again Greyrocks spent ages seeking its temporary home. Even asking folk on the street didn't help much:- half of them were only in the village for the said v-g!
For half the week we were the only residents but as Ascension and VE-day weekend loomed it filled - largely with two huge multi-national extended family groups. It also became clear that eating-out was going to be an issue! One place disappeared, one allegedly opening occasionally but not so in reality, and one requiring an advance reservation for a set meal. This was going to be a challenge - not helped by the bank holidays! On the first night we set off in hope and started to realise the situation, and as a result ended up in Vincelottes outside a restaurant about which we had read and were interested in visiting at some later stage. As we stood dithering and wondering about it the chef came out and engaged in conversation. He offered us his last table for the evening. and thus started one of the most lavish dinners ever experienced by Greyrocks. The basic price for the cheapest menu was OK, but we were lured into wine choices - including Cremant de Bourgogne - then there were the freebies! A three-part amuse-bouche plate, a three-part pre-dessert and a silver stand full of macaroons and home-made confectionery. This last came with a box for taking things home (which we forgot in our parting chat with le patron about the celebs he had cooked for, including HMQ and Paddy Ashdown)! We vowed to be more measured in our dinners thereafter and largely managed to do so! We did, however, drive to Chablis! Unfortunately it was on a holiday afternoon and parking was impossible. A box was ticked!
But the reason for staying in Cravant was neither food nor wine, but the Canal du Nivernais, and we had ample opportunity for gongoozling! There was a nasty cold wind for most of the week, but we managed a series of rides up and down the tow-paths nearby, and a day in glorious Auxerre (including a laundrette visit and carting biles up street stairs!) Greyrocks had been inspired to explore this canal when watching actors-cum-canal-nuts Sir Timothy West and Prunella Scales navigate a section as part of a TV series
Some aspects of the rides were problematic in that canal and river meet and part in a complicated way necessitating changes of side for the path, in places the road is used, and the general pattern of closing rural watering holes cuts back options, but all is meticulously maintained and the locks provide a charming break. These are all staffed often by women - and they jump on mopeds to beat the boats to the next lock. Greyrocks gongoozled at numerous locks, and at the marina at Chateau-Censoir, and also watched in amazement at the rock climbing alongside the canal. Bob did longer rides and managed to cover quite a length of this section.
All in all this was a great week, and we are now Burgundy fans (the region as well as the wine!) and are planning the next canal-side stay. We made stop overnight in St Quentin (Picardy) on yet another bank holiday. It was a beautifully sunny day and the autoroutes were HGV-free but full of Brussels-bound cars. Some terrible administration by Premier Classe led to us sitting in the sun in the centre of town. Another place to visit again!
Next day it was "Au Revoir, La France!"
Greyrocks left Calais for a month of touring England. Read on!
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| A great restaurant in Lesterps |
For half the week we were the only residents but as Ascension and VE-day weekend loomed it filled - largely with two huge multi-national extended family groups. It also became clear that eating-out was going to be an issue! One place disappeared, one allegedly opening occasionally but not so in reality, and one requiring an advance reservation for a set meal. This was going to be a challenge - not helped by the bank holidays! On the first night we set off in hope and started to realise the situation, and as a result ended up in Vincelottes outside a restaurant about which we had read and were interested in visiting at some later stage. As we stood dithering and wondering about it the chef came out and engaged in conversation. He offered us his last table for the evening. and thus started one of the most lavish dinners ever experienced by Greyrocks. The basic price for the cheapest menu was OK, but we were lured into wine choices - including Cremant de Bourgogne - then there were the freebies! A three-part amuse-bouche plate, a three-part pre-dessert and a silver stand full of macaroons and home-made confectionery. This last came with a box for taking things home (which we forgot in our parting chat with le patron about the celebs he had cooked for, including HMQ and Paddy Ashdown)! We vowed to be more measured in our dinners thereafter and largely managed to do so! We did, however, drive to Chablis! Unfortunately it was on a holiday afternoon and parking was impossible. A box was ticked!
But the reason for staying in Cravant was neither food nor wine, but the Canal du Nivernais, and we had ample opportunity for gongoozling! There was a nasty cold wind for most of the week, but we managed a series of rides up and down the tow-paths nearby, and a day in glorious Auxerre (including a laundrette visit and carting biles up street stairs!) Greyrocks had been inspired to explore this canal when watching actors-cum-canal-nuts Sir Timothy West and Prunella Scales navigate a section as part of a TV seriesSome aspects of the rides were problematic in that canal and river meet and part in a complicated way necessitating changes of side for the path, in places the road is used, and the general pattern of closing rural watering holes cuts back options, but all is meticulously maintained and the locks provide a charming break. These are all staffed often by women - and they jump on mopeds to beat the boats to the next lock. Greyrocks gongoozled at numerous locks, and at the marina at Chateau-Censoir, and also watched in amazement at the rock climbing alongside the canal. Bob did longer rides and managed to cover quite a length of this section.
All in all this was a great week, and we are now Burgundy fans (the region as well as the wine!) and are planning the next canal-side stay. We made stop overnight in St Quentin (Picardy) on yet another bank holiday. It was a beautifully sunny day and the autoroutes were HGV-free but full of Brussels-bound cars. Some terrible administration by Premier Classe led to us sitting in the sun in the centre of town. Another place to visit again!Next day it was "Au Revoir, La France!"
Greyrocks left Calais for a month of touring England. Read on!