September: Singalongs, So-Longs and Sunbed Rage!

Greyrocks returned from Chania to find that the influx of "usual suspects" had begun, and within a couple of days there was a full complement of "Saga-louts!" always ready to spend an early September evening (and early morning) doing what it does so well:- laughing and drinking at Cosmogonia or marking a birthday, anniversary or last night with an event elsewhere!

Hazy recall of the evening!

One such YiaYiaGaGa Club special event was organised by our French friends - Les Kandonites -  in celebration of their ruby wedding anniversary. An over-full minibus transported us to their favourite beach-side taverna in Gramenon, where a feast based on pilafi (goat and chicken) had been prepared.  Alain had set up his keyboard, and after his songs there were numbers by Chris and Jann, who specialise in reconstructed popular numbers. These included this time the round "Frère Jacques" with new words appropriate to the party! Charlie and Rainer also played guitar and sang. All good fun, and much enhanced by the generous supply  of real French claret! We drank that dry with many of the party instead on boxed Cretan white, the quantity of which amazed!

Just a couple of nights later we celebrated Ju's birthday at Cosmo with Catherine on the laptop supplying music requested for dancing. Towards the end Ruth performed her infamous "Clean Up Woman" and "Respect" acts. More amazement, and a headache!

A further "jolly" took many of us up the mountain to Azogires for their first Village Fair. Greyrocks has previously described this tiny,  remote, historic and "alternative"  hamlet 13 km from Paleo. (Try a search within the blog). We had not been there last season and in this period there had been household changes for Lucky, the placing of several commemorative plaques throughout and Gail Wareham has moved her art studio to opposite the Alpha.

Greyrocks took up a taxi ahead of the opening and the slamming of the door knocked over the whole stack of carefully-stacked cans. But no prize! We went for a walk hoping to find the waterfall and Andy Millar's grave. In the latter we failed! Azogires claims to be a very devout place:- 99 priests for example! It has a lot of chapels and we climbed to the wrong one - and needed a visit to the Alpha kafenion!

We had hoped for a real donkey!

There was a very good turnout. Ruth thought she had a winning strategy for the Donkey competition. but made a fool of herself, as indeed she did in the interminable darts tournament:- a hilarious event as the board and oche were on opposite sides of the road and there was some through traffic! Bob participated in the egg-and-spoon race, and alleged the wins had stuck his egg to the spoon!

Friends John and Janine turned up and he (an artist) painted a portrait of Mick Jagger on his stone, but didn't win! Later Chris and Jann played, getting a great reception, but we were anxious to descend so gratefully took up the offer of a lift with J and J :- she having reluctantly drunk rather less than the rest of us and knowing what the road is like!

Britain, Germany and France in harmony!

 Meanwhile the live music scene - already humming with the August arrival of Avid and Paul - was enhanced when Rainer and his sons Felix and Lucas had a short stay. Late afternoon jam sessions happened frequently at the cantina, with one remarkable session when the regulars were joined by Professor John (Cambridge), Austrian Franz and Moz from Oxford (who usually plays classical guitar).

Jann and Jane jammin' at Christos

Greyrocks also had several other brushes with Chris and Jann in performing mode. These were a couple of sessions at the cantina, at Monica's kafenion and at Christos' restaurant.  For their final two evenings they were joined by two friends from Norwich - Lenny and Jane - who were visiting  for a couple of days from their home in Vamos. When the four played at Monica's they attracted the largest audience of the season, and Greyrocks went to their "last supper" at Christos. Rainer played a few numbers too, and we were pretty impressed, too, by the food!

But for many it is beach life that matters most, and September has a distinct flavour! Greyrocks has previously described the change of typical tourist when the month starts, and that combined with a new attention to legality amongst locals has led to some "interesting" incidents down on the beach! The tax inspectors have made a few visits to check that receipts are issued. This had resulted in one block of sunbeds on the main beach being hors de combat  for some days, and - although this may be a modern myth - two such inspectors apparently went undercover (!) on the naturist beach with similar intent.
The overall effect, then, has been weeks when the supply of sunbeds and parasols in this area has been completely inadequate, and no more can be placed for fear of a huge fine. Numerous complaints have been made in many languages about alleged unfair reservations. Greyrocks had a bizarre silent "stand-off"  with four Brits who had-  before our arrival - put beds round the tree we use, and our Austrian friend reports the quote of the season: The Norwegians had - as usual - nabbed most of the front row of beds, and he settled on his towel between them and the sea, He was told to move because, the speaker said

"I've paid for this view!"

Four go mad in Kissamos!

Gramenon

Two days to warm up, wash and stow the barely-adequate-for-UK-August clothes, re-acquaint ourselves with beach and sea, and hose down the camping kit; and then it was time to  meet Chloë and Jack from the bus. They had arrived with ease from Bristol and taken lunch in Chania on the Nea Hora, They would stay eight nights in Paleo and had several plans for walks and trips, but in reality did little but chill-out with a new Lilo and do a few wedding-related visits. We ate together on the majority of evenings:- covering some old favourites ( Maria, Tassos, Crocodile, Small Garden). The only deviation from the usual was on their last day in Paleo when - in the face of some wind and having uncovered Yvette and taken her for a wash - we took Chloë to Ammos beach at Gramenon (6 km away) and had a very pleasant afternoon at the beach bar, on sunbeds and in the wonderful sea of the bay there, with its perfect access!

Crete: the top left corner!

Next day we all set off for NW Crete and the town of Kissamos - also known as Kastelli! We had two studios booked for a stay of three nights in a spot near the pedestrian section of  the beach-side.

En route we made a diversion to Kandanos in order to show Jack the site and memorials of the 1941 atrocity.  Then we journeyed on through the loaded chestnut trees and "the tunnel".near Topolia, which is fascinating and slightly daunting on first encounter!

It became clear quickly that we had not escaped the wind, and this means Greyrocks can say nothing useful about newly-found beaches! Instead on two days we repeated what we had done on previous visits when we had camped. In fact it transpired that this was what Chloë had in mind in suggesting we stay in the area!

Norpigia

One of the two campsites has a large swimming pool, so we spent time there until the late afternoon behaviour of others got too much, and we then went to the other which has a taverna fondly remembered  - particularly by Chloë! The beach there is not very special, but is quiet and has free sunbeds. The sea was rough but we had a bit of a frolic and then ate early and very well in the taverna and drove back to base. It made a change!

Mithimna

Another day was spent in Chania. The kids took a bus an hour earlier than us and did a lot of shopping. We also had a serious walk from bus station to the Nea Hora, where all met up. The wind was less here and the sea calmer so we had a pleasant beach afternoon and then ate nearby at a new and well-reviewed restaurant: "Portes". It is quaint with three eating areas decorated with old doors, and the dishes we chose were all excellent! We took the bus back and in walking through Kissamos were hailed. Giorgos and Mima were sitting with a friend in an office.They ran the (our) cantina in Paleochora for several years from about fifteen years ago! What a coincidence! On Sunday morning we drove to the airport to drop off the kids. As we killed time in the old taverna the weather was glorious. Ah well!