Surprise, surprise!

"Seen it all before!"

There followed three calmer weeks, during which not much happened, other than Ruth trying to recover from the plane-inflicted cold and get somewhere with the bike!  There was not much progress with either:- bronchitis eventually set in and despite three sessions a week at the Sports Clinic and growing knee flexibility the mounting into the saddle just wouldn't happen! In contrast the weather was wonderful and we did a lot of walking, and we did a lot of travel planning, including setting up the Goa trip for Jan/Feb. This is to be via London and Mumbai:- two places we would rather avoid, but the Qatar option seems dodgy at present and Greyrocks has accumulated a large number of Avios:- one of the most useless loyalty schemes around - and they can be used (expensively) on BA flights, so they have been! This led to the saga of Indian visas! The good news is that these are now available on-line for 60 days and are very, very much cheaper than before with Madrid involved. It is not, however, an easy process with photos and scans to be uploaded to strict guidelines, peculiar questions and complicated payment. By the time you have struggled with this you need a holiday!

But we succeeded and had the acceptance back sooner than suggested, so we could get on with preparation for the rather simpler trip:- Bob's birthday in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.  The hotel we wanted was full for some related dates, so we tinkered and got three acceptable nights, then went to the new Inter-Island airline - Canaryfly - and got return flights at an absurdly low residents' price You couldn't say no!

That can't be right! Well, maybe!

And we had a great time with several surprises!
First was the weather! It had been pretty nice in Fuerte - except for chilly evenings and nights - but Gran Can prospects were looking a bit dodgy! In fact the forecast was revised several times, and we had three days that were amongst the best Greyrocks recalls on the island. There were a dozen spots of rain but otherwise the beach (Las Canteras) was well-populated and there were plenty in the sea:- including many surfers without wet-suits! But we weren't there for that sort of thing!!

We wanted a bit of culture, so took the bus down to San Telmo (the older part of this city of two parts) and went to CAAM, not knowing quite what to expect. The Centro Atlantico de Arte Moderno is in a historic building near the cathedral, but inside is a large light-drenched space, and it is free to enter! Greyrocks concentrated on the seasonal exhibition "Interference" by Canarias-born Concha Jerez. (If you Google translate beware - it assumes she is male!) We spent an age going round the installations - many of which were accessible in spite of language and hit many Greyrocks spots: dealing with human rights, women's history, and the media.

 This was- despite the depressing world events portrayed -  an uplifting experience for Greyrocks as we have been feeling a lack of soulmates in Fuerteventura! In addition to much-exhibited works Concha has some Canaries-related installations, the most intense of which tells the story of La Sima de Jinámar, (page 12) where Franco-supporters threw leftists dead or alive - over many years! Victims included some of her family. As in the rest of Spain the Canaries is still coming to terms with events of the Civil War.

We walked a great deal around the city, and also made good use of the new style  "bono"  card for urban buses, which takes the prie down to 80 cents per ride! We visited the Vegueta market, Triana shopping street, El Corte Ingles department store on Black Thursday, La Isleta area near the port, and located for future use the cinema where films are shown in V.O. The full (long) extent of the promenade of Las Canteras beach was walked many times, and amongst the stops was a branch of 100 Montaditas on a Wednesday when each little filled roll is just 1 euro! Several nice surprises there!

We also had good dinners as planned, but had trouble finding any lobster for Bob's birthday, and needed to do some learning about lobsters. The obvious translation into Spanish is langosta but that refers to the spiny sort. The one found locally is a bogavante, which is what we eventually sourced - thanks to Trip Advisor - in a very popular but small and simple restaurant close to the beach, We shared one and the claws were indeed, particularly lovely!

With time to kill on the last day we found it had rained overnight and it was dull! Never mind we walked around the ferry and cruise port and came across two Belens. As most visits to GC have been near Christmas we are used to seeing these public nativity scenes, but this year we were impressed. On the beach construction of vast pyramids was under way, and in the shopping centre was  a very traditional one with lovingly produced (and historically bizarre) figues some of which are mechanised!

We flew back that afternoon taking with us a re-emergence of Ruth's bronchitis. A nasty surprise!

The Other Wedding

When Greyrocks told folk we were off for a wedding some suggested it was that of Chloë and Jack. No such simplicity chez nous - theirs has developed to have four events at least and straddle six months!!

No- this was the long-awaited splicing of Sam and Catherine! We were honoured to be invited - along with Gaby, Charlie and Eva - to join them and Eoin (best man) and Julia for their celebration in Shrewsbury. We would form the YiaYiaGaGa team representing Paleochora, where the couple have spent many, many holidays! Out of mothballs came Bob's only (never-worn) summer suit plus accoutrements and Ruth's "funeral dress" to which a new lace jacket would be added if it arrived chez Chloë. Greyrocks is known in all its domains for its lack of interest in sartorial elegance, ("Dress like camel herders!") To this add Ruth's difficult feet and you have a shoe crisis. She threw in a pair of black mules that had been in a basket for more than a decade and off we went on a another tightly-planned trip. We started with a remarkably pleasant Easyjet flight to Bristol. It was the first time we had landed there and we were charmed by the approach on this clear day! We saw as far as the South Wales coast and well down into Devon, then the various bridges and rivers, Fascinating!

Excuse for a pizza party!

However, it's not the easiest airport to traverse and leave! When we eventually got out we walked straight onto a bus that took us to Temple Meads Station and the hotel was across the road! Dead easy! The plan was to use this evening for the Grand Opening of the re-modelled backyard at Chloë and Jack's house. It still needed planting, upholstery and an anticipated mural, but the outcome of some brilliant design - taking account of strange levels after part-demolition of the garage - and meticulous work by Mark and Matt - was very impressive. Family members Clare, Nigel  (electrician to the project) and children came along for the evening, but only Janet from the in-law side, In view of the mid-week and numbers we had suggested some delivery pizzas and Prosecco, We took the train for a couple of stops and were confused by the station exits.  As we dithered at a road junction there was furious ringing and we saw a cyclist zooming down the road on an impressive bike - with helmet and serious warm gilet! It was Greyrock's offspring! So we went to the pub to catch up, and Jack joined us, then went to get the pizzas from a local outlet. We had a jolly - but chilly - evening, collected various delivered items, chewed the fat over wedding arrangements with Janet, had various other interchanges and got an Uber cab back to the hotel! Short but sweet, and the backyard is wonderful!

"About time, too!"

Next morning it was raining as we took breakfast! We had ahead a few hours of cheap rail travel, First it was a slow and tatty GWR train as far as Newport (South Wales) passing through the Severn Tunnel. The trip was blighted by a woman insisting on sharing with the entire carriage the details of her prison visit! As the next train approached at Newport we realised there was a problem:- short train, too many passengers! Thanks to an earlier cancellation this was a fairly unpleasant run in terms of comfort, but stunning for scenery, and once descended the sins of the operator were forgotten!  We went for a recuperative pint in the pub nearest to the station, walked through the drizzle to the hotel, and found a welcoming committee! Most of the gang was already there in the lounge with real ale (and Eva turned up soon after!) At some point we handed over the mastica from Chios, which we had ordered for delivery to Bristol, and has a history with Catherine - in particular -

A weekend of jollity ensued!  A large party went for dinner that night; and we were all on parade next day for the Main Event. This was all centred on The Lion Hotel.  The bride entered accompanied by her lovely Mum, and looking beautiful in the bargain gown and with local English garden flowers, There are good pictures around and a link might be made in time, but this is your lot for now. On the way into the formal part Ruth's shoe collapsed - (victim of neglect and too much hot sun!) Later in the day Bob went on a rescue mission and the cobbler did his (no charge) best, but the only destination was the bin, and a new pair was bought next day! After the ceremony there was a very nice and slow lunch culminating in baklavas for the Greek theme, speeches and then a break and the evening with added guests, a good disco and a late night! Bob's change of gear during the recess caused a lot of amusement. He dumped the suit and tie in favour of shorts, sandals, Hawaiian shirt and sun-hat!! At some point the DJ announced there was a request for the Paleochora contingent and we made a reasonable attempt at Zorba's sirtaki!

The deed was now done but we were all in Shrewsbury for another day or so. Bob had an optician's appointment and Ruth needed shoes (!) so we strolled around the town and met up with the rest (including S African chapter) for dinner, Afterwards there was a farce getting beck into the hotel and securing a nightcap! On Sunday Greyrocks said farewell to Gaby and Charlie, checked out and walked around a bit of the river bank to say hello to Eoin and Julia in their little cottage , This turned into a champagne-fuelled long stay alternating with brother John next door, until Eoin drove the three of us to Birmingham airport. Poor Eva had a terrible journey back to Bremen because of freak flooding in Germany, but we had a quiet night in the highly convenient Ibis Budget at the airport and a flight back on Monday, which could have been better with some ritalin for the lad in the row behind, but Dave picked us up smoothly and normality resumed!

An event well worth the effort! A long and happy marriage to Sam and Catherine!!

"We're not stopping!" - a sedate dash: FR-CAT-IC-UK in ten days

The sun was shining as we left Lattes on this whistle-stop tour, necessitated by a wedding in UK and Greyrocks' need to get to the Fuerteventura home - if only to pick up a suit etc! There was some trepidation about accessing the dear A9 - after the debacle some days before; but all was well going south:- with only heavy warnings on radio and signage about a terrible crash near Narbonne and suggestions of autoroute closure. It turned out this was on the Toulouse branch, so we made good time, wrestled in the service station toilets with a French coach party of pensioners and reached Roses in Catalonia with the afternoon ahead of us.

This represented a bit of a diversion from the direct E15 route but the town is so nice and our hotel so convenient and welcoming that we felt it was worth it for a restful overnight! We checked in and went over to the prom for a beer and to find a spot for eating up leftovers as a picnic. The sun shone brightly but there was a shocking wind. This didn't deter us from a long bike ride (Bob) and walk (Ruth )in both directions along that superb seafront (which has since last year been marked out to separate the pedestrians from cyclists). Then we performed the annual ritual of stowing the bikes inside Yvette and ensuring the travelling bags are ready for the flight. As the sun set the chill and force of the wind were pretty fierce so dinner was inside at Las Palmeras and up to the usual high standard. In the morning we left far too early and found ourselves at Girona airport with ages to kill before the bus. It is a strange place these days with so few flights, but had an interesting exhibition celebrating 50 years of its history.
Eventually we  boarded the coach for the two-hour run to Barcelona airport. It's not the quickest or prettiest way to do this journey, but if the timings work it's worth it for convenience with heavy luggage, and freedom from thieves! As we passed through the suburbs of the city the evidence of the independence crisis  was all around with (both) flags on the buildings and much graffiti. This was in the spell between the referendum with Rajoy's brutality and the arrests made more recently. A few interchanges with residents had confirmed for Greyrocks that this is not a simple issue! (Our riposte of the moment to those who say stupid things (e.g. Brexiteers) is "I think you will find it is more complicated than that!") At the airport we grabbed lunch and got a very timely shuttle to the hotel, where we basked in the afternoon sun on the terrace, and enjoyed for the nth time the buffet supper surrounded by some fans of Olympiakos, who would play Barca next day in the Champions League. (Result  3-1). Back at the airport next morning we were struck by how much more evident and heavy security there was! Since Greyrocks was last there we have seen both the animosity over Catalunya and the attacks in the city centre and Cambrils.

Chaos in the main street! Nice when it's finished!

The flight was - as usual - simple and civilised, although the significance of the face mask on the Asian woman sitting next to Ruth was not clear at the time! Dave picked us up and we were swiftly back home after almost exactly six months. All was well and we settled down ready to explore the changes in our not-so-little-these-days pueblo.  Most striking immediately, however, was the weather:- very hot, not much wind and a heavy calima! Since then - and with the changing of the clocks - we have seen more wind and fairly chilly evenings, but it is till very warm for the time of year and we haven't needed a duvet (normally donned in mid October!)

Old friend Alviro in the centre of things at Fado Rock!

There was a straight week for Greyrocks to turn round and be ready for the UK trip, get a grip on admin. issues and find out what has changed. Dave had warned us about the main street, and it is indeed striking! We have been arguing for pedestrianisation for years and now it is upon us in a big way! From the BBVA bank at the bottom to the street with Rock Island and Dra, Kristen the road and some of the pavement are fenced off whilst flash new paving is laid and trees are re-seated. It is chaotic with the taxi rank relocated and access to the Shell garage - one of only two in town - being by a most bizarre route. We are delighted with the project, but many locals bemoan it and the loading and parking implications. In general the resort is busy as would be expected as we move into Winter Sun season with few current alternatives, and the Italians are multiplying! They are responsible for some of the new retail outlets including - probably - the head shops! There are a new bank branch and several new surf schools, and near us some residential buildings that have been under construction for many years have moved on to near completion. All quite positive! Our locality has also been enhanced by a change in our closest restaurant. Last October it had opened for the first time with lavish decoration and fittings, but the business itself - La Puntilla - was nothing to write home about and was close to closure when we left, but now it is Fado Rock - an offshoot of one with the same name which dominates Caleta de Fuste. We know various members of the team and have recently tried the new place and found it pretty good:- mostly grills and Portuguese dishes!


Other activities in the week were getting a civil servant to confirm that Bob is still alive, dropping in on the Health Centre, Ruth failing on the bike again and finding old favourites in the band at Rock Cafe. The Blues Festival happened and we saw some good acts on the Friday night using the miserable German's place as a base, but by Saturday Ruth was hors de combat, and Bob had to go alone. Whether the culprit was the woman on the Barca flight, or the man coughing and spluttering for two hours on the bus we will never know, but Ruth succumbed to a filthy head cold that was still there as we flew again, and in fact vestiges remain. This cramped style somewhat, but hey!!

And - of course - we had to ferret out Bob's suit. This was purchase in 2007 and had never been worn; but it did just fit. The tale of Ruth's "wedding" shoes follows in the next post!