Blow out

After much texting, surfing and mind-changing we eventually got tickets for Chloë and Matt to fly out to us for a week. We had to get them a taxi as the flight was too late for the buses, and we got them a basic room next door to us. When they arrived (Tuesday 29th) we were having a very hot spell without too much wind trouble. After some initial chilling-out they wanted to spend some of each day  exploring the area on foot, so left us on "our beach" (of which more later) to see first Azzuro beach on the way to Gramennon, then on a fairly windy day to do the Anidri Triangle including time at the beach (Gianiskari). There was much talk of what to do as the "big day trip". By now the daily wind was a steady Force 5 Beaufort, and Chloë didn't fancy the long boat voyage involved in getting back from walking the (overly) famous Samaria Gorge. We had met veteran walker and author Bob Tait one evening and he suggested that the Agia Irini walk would be more pleasant so they planned that  - we thought -  for the Sunday, leaving them Monday to recover before flying home. (It is also cheaper by way of bus, boat and entrance)

 

In fact that didn't happen. After a late night they failed to prepare or set an alarm, so we later discovered them recovering, and planning to do it the next day. We had our own surprise when we got to the beach that day. Our "cunning plan" with sunbeds padlocked to the Blue Flag noticeboard had been scuppered by the removal of the board. (We assume this is so as not to draw attention to the loss of BF status!). This is not an issue for locking as there are other posts, but we had been using the shadow cast to avoid bringing other shade. Sunbathing was therefore curtailed even before the late afternoon gusts started.

 

Monday was a day of events! It started for Greyrocks with the realisation that - just as predicted - the wind was up to Force 7 with gusts. We saw that CandM had gone on their trip, starting with the 6.15 bus. Ruth went to play cards. This had to be inside because of the wind. An early topic of discussion was that it had been too inclement for the boat to run. This would mean no boat back from Sougia for CandM. For several hours warning text messages were sent to  Chloe's phone. They remained unanswered - mostly because the phone was in their room! The spectre of a taxi back loomed! Later in the day we heard that it was the Gavdos boat that had not run and all would be well. We monitored the Samaria  online, but because of the time delay on the site had to suddenly rush out as we saw it approaching from our balcony. Disembarkation was apparently tough, but the voyage had been OK, with the route taken rather closer to the coast than usual. They had enjoyed the day oblivious to the parental panic.

 Next day we had a leisurely departure for Chania. Greyrocks had decided to drive the "kids" to the airport and then have two nights in the favoured hotel in the Nea Hora. As we drove over the mountains the sky became quite cloudy, and it was certainly cooler on the North coast. Bob took them on a walking tour of the city whilst Ruth lay on the beach, then we all had a last lunch at the excellent Akrogiali before depositing them at the airport.

 

 With just a week in Crete Chloë had been keen to choose well for dinners! Also Greyrocks was paying, so we went for the most "interesting" restaurants. There are many very good traditional Cretan places (and some duff ones), and one day there may be a subjective analysis of them on this blog. We might also be moved one day to explore the vexed question of interpreting the meaning of the words "Fresh Local Fish" in Paleochora,  but for time being  here are three recommendations for something a bit different:

 

1. The Small Garden is a real favourite, and the Trip Advisor comments say it all! Offal lovers and vegetarians alike flock here!

 

 2. Kapetan Dimitris is the transformed Captain Jim, and what a transformation! High quality tableware, diner attention and toilets, and a pleasingly short menu of modern Greek "dishes with a twist"! Again.. read Trip Advisor and enjoy!

 

3. You won't find much about Cape Crocodile on Trip Advisor as something has gone wrong with the reference. (Georgios is trying to sort this out, and Greyrocks ought to submit something!). Its menu includes the usual things, and it is popular with locals for special occasions; but what make it a favourite are two specialities - huge racks of ribs, and delicious fillet steaks!

 

So once back from the airport  Greyrocks had two days and nights in Chania (including a meal at Suki Yaki), then did the three supermarkets run and returned home. There having been a Tuesday we found an influx of regular holidaymaker friends, and have thus had a week of far too many late nights at Cosmogonia, and a poor record on the "Moth Day" front! Nor did Catherine's birthday bash at Corali help!

 



Mike from Bristol thought the world should see this!

 On our return we were told that the wind had been very troublesome, and this week has not been the best for beach bums! On Friday we had forgotten about the shade issues, so had to abandon early. On Saturday we took down an old parasol to leave with the sunbeds, and Ruth was able to almost finish the Guardian Prize crossword encased within this Heath Robinson contraption! On Sunday there was no way it could be used as the wind was back up at Force 5, and we also had dramatically large waves and beach drenching. No sea dipping that day for dodgy knees! Monday was completely unstrandgebar (is that right, Günter, as a translation of "unbeachable"?). Only the very, very determined went anywhere near the beach, and Ruth couldn't ride her bike to Zygos for Scrabble. Bob did manage to ride his out to the campsite where most of France's female youth was amusing itself. The general consensus is that this is the worst August weather for many years. Oh dear!

Remembering absent friends

Also in July we have marked the passing of Stephen - as noted in a post in May. Earlier this month his grave was finished and a group of us was invited by Olga to visit the churchyard in Voutas to see it. Most of us had not been on the island for his funeral. It was a gloriously sunny day. Barry read  a piece of Stephen's poetry as he had done at the funeral, Olga said a few words and we toasted him in (of course) chilled white wine. The setting is breath-taking, and the headstone is simple, clean and tasteful:- as Stephen would have wanted it!

Published with Olga's permission

 



Just a few days later Greyrocks received a surprise e-mail. It was from the brother of Sean, who was originally from Belfast and has a long history with the village and Azogires. It explained that he had just gained access to Sean's address book and was informing his contacts of his death in September 2012, aged 64.

RIP

 

Watch this space for news of the little memorial we are planning for one of his preferred haunts:- the old Coconuts!

Crunch, splat and loads of dosh!

 



This week saw closure of the Yvette Prang Incident, so here are the gory details! On arrival in June we parked outside The Wave and Votsalo with the intention of finding a better semi-permanent spot within a few days, but we did not do so, and within a week we were called in by a local taverna owner who showed us both the damage to the hatch (which would now not open) and a copy of an insurance form in which (allegedly) full culpability was acknowledged by the owner and driver of a local pick-up which had backed into her. An official had already been to sign the form and take a photo. We were assured all would be well, and heaved a sigh of relief that the deed had been done in full sight of two crowded eateries. We did panic and called Fuerteventura, but it was all to be done through Athens and within a few days we were Skype-calling a helpful English-speaking person there and making real progress. On the way to Matala we called in at the Fiat dealer in Chania and showed them the damage. On the way back we went again to have formalities completed, and then we returned to Paleochora to wait for the call to say that a new door had arrived and we could have it fitted.

 When the call came we decided to stay two nights on the seafront in Chania rather than do two return journeys. The weather was beautiful and the hotel we use is also very pleasant. We chilled out, and ate well after an extensive and contorted search for two particular Chinese restaurants, which have probably disappeared! Unlike in Paleo some efforts have been made and Blue Flag status 2013 has been awarded to Nea Hora. To mark this a man went up the flag poles and everything in wood or metal was being painted blue. This included a handrail used by Ruth. Katastroph as they say! The man with the white spirit wasn't sure how to react!

 

We were called to say the car was ready, said farewell at the hotel and took a taxi. Yvette was gleaming, we paid a lot of cash (the only way they would do it!) and drove off. On the way to the supermarket a warning light and sound came on suggesting "Engine Failure". We also seemed to be losing some power. In the car park we pondered and decided we would have to go back as the garage's closing time was approaching. We made the journey worse by getting onto the National Highway in the wrong direction! Back with Fiat they tried diagnostics, and declared that it was safe to return over the mountains. Back to the supermarket, this time completing the extensive stock-up including six huge buckets of low-fat yoghurt! We re-join the highway (in the right direction) and head off home. As we speed along the coast there is a profound diminution in power, so we slow down, take the turn South and it gets worse. When we try the first real ascent - just after Voukolies we know we are not safe to attempt the rest of the journey (even with the strange set of foodstuffs we now have aboard!) Too late for the garage so we return to the hotel, and are given back the same room. A lot of yoghurt goes into the fridge, we collapse, have a disappointing meal and make contingency plans involving buses and yoghurt. They weren't necessary, though! We arrived at the garage as they opened and the problem was traced to a dirty filter (which should have cleaned itself but hadn't). No charge and we were back at the hotel in time to claim our free breakfasts! This time the southerly trek was uneventful and we stopped in Voukolies to buy a mint plant. Within a few days we were sent an e-mail to say that a cheque made to cash would be at the insurance agent's local office the next day. Well, the visit there was worthy of Feydeau."Do you speak English?" "No!". Sign language of cheque, letter, car, thump, etc. He rings his daughter and Bob tries again but is assumed to be lodging a claim. We mention some names, Fiat etc. He looks in his journal and locates the incident when he was called in. He rings someone else, whom we recognise, so tell her we don't think she can help. Suddenly we see outside Giorgos who used to run the cantina. He comes in and acts as an intermediary. In the end we establish what we already suspected:- that the cheque hadn't arrived. Nor the next day, nor the next day, then it was the weekend... Anyway in the end we got it, signed and took it over to the bank. Out of pocket with rounding, no refund for diesel, fares ... but it could have been so much worse! All Yvette has lost is one Spanish bull sticker!

Meanwhile the beach situation had improved in our absence, but we did have a run of rough seas and high winds. One day the shoreline was marked by "pink stuff" as is found on nearby Elafonisi. It was gone by next day! The water has been getting warmer - though possibly not to the level we enjoyed in Chania! The cantina has been getting busier, and Vicky is now serving breakfasts there between 8 and 12. We have been benefitting greatly from our "clever trick" of securing our own (5 year-old) sunbeds to a noticeboard, with the approval (and protection) of plagist Tony, and an excellent point for sea entry.

Beyond beach-life things are also hotting up! The Skala has live music on Monday evenings, and the Atoli has a Rock and Reggae night on Thursdays with a buffet. This is usually recorded, but they sometimes have live acts on other evenings. The Third Eye has rebetika on many Sundays. The Paleohora Club near the campsite remains firmly closed! Jolliest of musical evenings are, however, the randomly-timed ones at Cosmogonia. We enjoyed a session with Mats and a Chania-based duo, that went on till well past the witching hour!

The International Chess Tournament happened with absolutely no prior publicity!

The view from our balcony!

There was great excitement last Thursday evening! A strange vessel suddenly came into view. Ruth called Bob who said it looked like a stealth boat, but when identified on line it was Main - an Italian-registered superyacht last docked in La Spezia. Half a dozen Googles later Ruth found  (allegedly first in the village) that it belongs to Giorgio Armani. (Hence the colour black!) Inexplicably the party ate at Caravella. Giorgio himself was photographed sitting in the pharmacy. Was this before or after eating?

 

 
 



Echoes?

Greyrocks has had two excursions since arrival. The second was last week for some cosmetic surgery on Yvette (Next post for that saga!) but after ten days or so we went to Matala for their (and our) third annual festival, which you will see is now styled as a "Beach" rather than "Hippie" do!
The logistics were very different this year as we had Yvette. The date depends on Orthodox Easter which was very late this year, hence the spell in Paleo beforehand. Before and  after the three day stay in Matala itself we had time in Rethymnon, staying with Saint Lefteris at the Aloe (as last year). It was very hot, and the sea was a bit too frisky to be safe for arthritic knees; but the stretch of beach is very pleasant. Overall, however, we felt that the city was "on the make" from "new" tourists that are everywhere. (Yes.. Russians!)  The sunbeds were absurdly over-priced, as were some drinks and restaurants. We ate at the Noodle Bar outwards and The Fat Snail on return, both easily delivering what we were after!
We stayed at the Matala Bay Hotel, but had become anxious about being "bumped" as we were warned this could happen and we were not staying on the first (Friday) night. We almost were! We were shown to a room in the "Annexe", which had been recently equipped to meet the stated specification, but was not very appealing. When we returned at 4.30 am we realised we had left the key in the electricity switch inside. Ruth slept on the sofa fortuitously placed on the landing, and Bob - having failed to find a night porter in the main Reception - slept for a few hours on a leather sofa there until wakened and given a spare key! At breakfast we were offered a room in the main building, which we gladly took and was ideal!
The attendance was huge:- particularly for the Saturday night when young fans from all over Greece were there for Locomondo. A fair proportion of the tiny village of Anidri (up above Paleo) was there too! The Kings of Floyd were note-perfect! Other acts varied from barely adequate tributes, through interesting modern Greek rock, a very strange but profoundly popular "novelty" band and a set by an ex-Strangler that didn't include "Peaches".
We had some fun over meals too, meeting other fans (mostly German), and having the last dinner with Kalyves Barry and Judy in a tavern on the beach, where we were remembered by the waiter.
The only real objection to the whole thing is the very uninspiring T-shirt of which many remained unsold at the end!

We have booked a room for next year. (The Matala Bay is already full)


 

What a difference nine months makes!

It`s five weeks now since Greyrocks arrived in Paleohora, so time to respond to reader requests (well 1 request, John!) for an update on changes in the village. Passing over some deaths - and in no particular order - here is the list:

At least there is another Seagull on the other side!

• The Seagull (Glaros) has moved from next to the Pal Beach Hotel to the site on the stony seafront where Calypso had its second existence. Tassos seems happy with trade, which is now mostly in the evening
• There is now only one restaurant between crossroads and church, because the betting shop is now only operating as such
• Last week a new pastry shop opened in the old OTE office next to Yannis Place
• An old building in the back streets near Niki`s House has been tarted up Chania style and turns out to be a hairdressers
• Rumours that the cinema would not open proved false as we now see it will be showing something unremarkable tonight (and Zorba tomorrow!)
• KTEL has expanded the bus service from Chania
• The south coast ferry schedule has been "all over the place" with arrivals and departures on the Gavdos run at peculiar hours. This is allegedly a consequence of austerity removal of subsidies for ferry fuel.
• The weather in June was declared to be the worst in living memory with a severe rainstorm on 13th, quite a few days with cloud and some chilly evenings. July has been much better!
• The geology of the sandy beach has made entry to the sea very difficult. When we first arrived we had never seen so much of the rock at the shore exposed, and there was a run of three days when there was no safe entry point in our area. Of late Nature has deposited some sand, and it is getting better. (Near the old Ostria Nature has been recently and dramatically helped by a bulldozer, and the long term effects are eagerly awaited.
• There will be no Blue Flag this year for any of the five local beaches that have normally received one! The threshold has been raised in terms of required facilities and the powers that be failed to do anything about it. Needless to say there has also been speculation about water quality, but no solid evidence has been discovered (Pardon the pun!)
• Finally we have a new statue. It is the work of German who lives in Koundouras, and the full meaning has yet to come to light.

Hallo, hallo! It's the sun-worshipper with the big boobies! (Transgender?)
 

The Italian Job (mercifully short)!

History is all in Trieste, too! Austro-Hungarian glory, a Fascist centre, ethnic cleansing and post-war carve-ups! It is also a favourite of many travellers.
We managed to dodge the rain for the afternoon and evening and spent far too much on small beers in one of the many grand piazze - not even Moretti!(Still, it was Ruth's birthday!)
A feature of the city is the number of very flamboyant coffee houses reminiscent of Vienna. We ate in one such near our hotel (The Greek restaurant in our own hotel being closed!).
.. with prosecco, local red wine, local cold meats and tender tagliata you could almost want to spend longer in Italy, but...

we had a ferry to catch. En route we encountered two major motorway hold-ups (with the newly familiar static queue of HGVs in the slow lane), and road works with diversions in Venice itself. We had little time to kill at the port. Then we struck "ANEK as the Ryanair of the sea".. again!

What a farce! At one point four elderly British women stood in a queue behind Eastern European foot passengers getting an airport-style security check. We were in various states of fury and anxiety having been hauled out of vehicles driven by partners and ordered to go through this procedure and meet them at ship's reception. There were those with no passport, those with both passports, and there was Ruth who had done this sort of thing before and was carrying her half the voyage's necessities:- most worryingly a supply of Croatian wine. She had spotted the disposal point for liquids! Whether the middle-class (and somewhat xenophobic) tirades in English had an effect or not suddenly a member of staff waved us all through and we went back to tell tales! Of course, if we were meaning to transport explosives we might just think to send them in the vehicle!

The ship itself was also a disappointment, but the earliest part of the voyage never is..

 Our previous sailings on this route have been on large ANEK ships with plenty of sitting-out space (and a swimming pool) up top, a gyros bar, a cinema, three or four separate restaurants and working internet. No to all these on the new (improved?) one, so not our best time! We have also of late been getting a cabin with two low beds for the same price as a budget one (as Seniors we think). This ship seemed to cater for HGVs and coaches, and there were many very aged ladies travelling in groups so we think we lost out to them. Two nights aloft in the upper bunk for Bob, then! Still, time passes with some stashed TV films watched, and we met other holders of the grey pound, several of them going sailing!

Patras port has been improved and we were soon out and on the road. We drove to the hotel on the outskirts near the new Rio bridge, had a good breakfast, used the internet and twiddled our thumbs as it was not looking like the sort of day for sunbathing by the pool to kill time. So we set off again towards Athens sticking to the coast at points, and then it started to rain! Just before the real start of the city we stopped for a long lunch at the usual spot. No navigational errors getting to Piraeus, the rain stopped, we raided LIDL, dodged beggars and found ourselves with hours on our hands. We were however let early onto the ship and we did the usual port-watching with wine until sailing, and had an early night! It was a long slow docking, and the lift was available for a change. (In fact Ruth met a lady of 110 in it!)

No through road this year!

We decided not to hang around waiting for shops to open and were soon turning off the national road near Kissamos to use the tunnel route to go South. In time there were notices in Greek warning of diversions. We ignored them, but thought the village of Topolia looked very quiet. Then a sign said "Odos Kleisto" or some such, which left no doubt that the road (and presumably the tunnel) was impassable! When we got back to the main road we thought we saw a look in the eyes of the seated old men we had passed twenty minutes earlier. So Bob drove the standard route down to Paleochora for the first time, and we survived, arriving outside Votsalo to quite a few "Welcomes".

Dalmatian spots (not all black and white!)

Why Croatia, why Zaton?
We knew nothing about the options when we started our research. We would be coming back up again for the Venice ferry - not ready for Serbia and/or Albania yet -  so not too far South, and then it was a matter of choosing a good beach, suitable cycling territory and a comfortable apartment. Generally we were pleased!

 Of Croatia as a summer holiday choice we liked:

• Stunning landscapes
• Good infrastructure
• Good food (mostly Italian style, some more local specialities, fish)
• Cheap, good draught wine
• Clean sea (untested, given the weather)
• Well-trained staff

Less to our personal taste was:

• Knowing no Slavic languages at all, so feeling like any other ignorant tourists
• An uncomfortable feeling about recent history:- deserted quality homes that are presumably the legacy of ethnic cleansing

So we left thinking we could well come back for a taste in decent weather. We were very lucky, however, that it did not rain on the northwards journey! We would be using a fair bit of Adriatic coast road - shown on our old road atlas as due to be of motorway standard by 2008! Thus, we could not understand signs suggesting an alternative (and much longer) route to Rijeka. We took a road across to Senj on the coast, and it was a bit intimidating, but when we hit the coast the fun started. Mile after mile of unmade surfaces as part of roadworks and we were in a convoy consisting largely of Dutch caravans! It went on and on, until reaching some vast viaducts and complex junctions.
 Eventually we reached Slovenia and got away without a vignette for the 56km because it was not motorway. it certainly wasn't! Then into Italy and the downwards plunge into Trieste. A journey to remember - and it was Ruth's birthday, too!