Golden Oldies chronicling a Bizarre March

It has been a bizarre month for Greyrocks. Here are five 60/70s numbers to illustrate the five themes (and George Martin, who sadly died this month, produced three of them):

Buses, Bono and Bounty

Greyrocks' Fellow Traveller Friends

After meeting John and Tracey on their arrival for The Sardine we saw them several times by chance or design and hatched a plan for a day trip exploiting their hire car. Greyrocks wanted to show them the delights of Puerto but we also integrated a stop on the outskirts so that Ruth could collect her replacement Bono from the bus company office. This is the rechargeable card which gives a sizeable discount on bus fares to residents of the island. Ruth had lost hers a month previously and emailed the company. Ironically the office is not accessible by bus! Mission accomplished we parked on the seafront and set J and T off for a stroll around whilst Ruth did her exercises on the pedals (see below) Then we met again and took a long delightful tapas lunch at the Greyrocks favourite of El Bounty and then went back to base.

On their penultimate night we went to Domingo's, and at the end of a very nice meal were saying Goodbye and Bon Voyage when a customer at the neighbouring table said "It's Ruth from Paleochora, isn't it? How is your wrist? We go home tomorrow and have been looking for you!" It took a while to establish that they were Anne and Tom from Ireland with whom Ruth had spent much of an afternoon outside Finikas during the September purdah! Much "small world" chat ensued and John and Tracey became further resolved to move into the centre of the Venn diagram this summer... 

..which is where Ken and Kate now belong, having been in touch some time ago to say that this winter's sun-seeking trip would be to the south of our island. We agreed to meet in Puerto for a day together giving both couples a single bus trip, although theirs would be longer! It should have been easy, but a delay for them, a longer journey time than anticipated and a confusion about which road from Gran Tarajal is used by the numbers 1 and 10 buses led to a farcical half an hour of calls and waving! They were less than ecstatic about their hotel, resort and weather so far but we had a very pleasant sunny but windy few hours together largely replicating the activities of three days earlier, and they too raved about Bounty!

Thank you, driver for getting me here!

Bed Bugs

Following our visit to IKEA on Lanzarote last month we placed on order on-line for a lovely new bed with drawers plus a pretty good quality mattress and a topper. We picked a delivery date from what was on offer, and further paid for assembly. The deal is that stuff can either be left at a depot near the airport or, for 25 EUR, be delivered to home. A day or so later there is a failed phone call in very fast strongly accented Canarian Spanish further confused by Greyrocks forgetting that everywhere except in UK the company name is not pronounced "eye-kee-ya"
A second call tells us that the bed will be delivered on a Tuesday and assembled the next day. Fair enough - on the Sunday we move into the spare bedroom and Bob gets the legs off of the old bed base and removes the slats. We arrange for the council to collect the whole thing from our nearest skip point across the road which entails us putting it there on Monday evening. We look at the legless base and our convoluted staircase and realise we don't know how it went up there fourteen years ago when we moved in. There is no obvious way to de-construct it! Gary and Nicky from downstairs - not young but very fit - came round to help, but we strike a "Right Said Fred" impasse. It will not go down the stairs! It is resolved thus: We tie a sheet to the base, take it through the French windows  and balance it on the wall of our bedroom balcony, It is lowered as far as the kitchen balcony and held there while Gary runs down to his terrace to take it. He and Bob then pass it over the high wall. He jumps over and it is taken to his nearest collection point. The mattress is thrown the whole way down and then passed over Gary's wall. Neighbours have since told us it was a good spectacle. Gary takes ownership of the slats with some plan for a dog enclosure, and by morning everything has been taken away.

To shift this blighter shoudn´t take a mo!

On Tuesday the delivery happens efficiently and we unfurl the mattress as instructed to give it 24 hours to take shape. We leave the many boxes undisturbed and sleep in the spare bedroom for what we believe will be the last time. However on Wednesday there is no call about assembly and no-one has come by 6 pm. It is time for the ritual of "Getting cross in Spanish!" We should never, it seems, have been told assembly would be on a Wednesday and we would have to wait until next week! We threaten them with dire consequences and next get a call to say it would be done on Friday as a special case. It was, and it is very comfortable, although Greyrocks' hearts sank when the nice man called us upstairs to show us a blemish on the headboard. We swiftly decided to accept it!

Bicycle Busting

 The campaign to get Ruth back onto the push-bike has rumbled on through the month! Once there had been the first very painful rotation of pedals on the exercise bike at the clinic this activity became part of each physiotherapy visit, and of course it got easier. In addition to this - on days without physio - she used the kit supplied by the councils in the Parque de Mayores of both Corralejo and Puerto del Rosario. It took a while to get any success with this too - particularly as everything is fixed, but now it can be done fairly easily. Greyrocks kept thinking the full Monty would happen soon and would take the bike out to a quiet spot and try, but only beginners' waddling and wobbling followed by fearful and depressing failure happened! We saw the sainted surgeon on 15th. He was delighted with the knee job, told us we were "like boyfriend and girlfriend" in our lifestyle, made arrangements for probable Knee 2 in the autumn and advised us to pay for three more sessions of physio in order to get the knee bending backwards. He later briefed Rrro and she has been doing terrible things to advance this. She has very little English, but has learnt "No pain: no gain!". Greyrocks has continued to use its season ticket for the Spa at Bahia Real once per week and each of us has their own self-devised routine for swimming, stretching and water therapy, thus mixing pleasure with remedy.
Then yesterday - Maundy Thursday and a holiday in Spain - we raised the saddle and Ruth managed two controlled forward turns using both pedals. This was in our courtyard and great was the rejoicing:- to the extent that an alcohol-free day was abandonned and a bottle of cheap fizz was opened. It was 17 weeks since the operation and almost eight months since the wrist incident put paid to cycling.
Today we practised again in the courtyard and then went out to the promenade where an amzing near-normal ride happened. There were two points of pain the operated leg and Ruth is very nervous about the surface and surrounding behaviour, but this was a very significant development and made it  - ofr Greyrocks - a Very Good Friday because:

I want to ride my bicycle.

Bad Boy Behaviour

This is the less acceptable side of living in a growing community! One Sunday Greyrocks was walking back home to make a scheduled Skype call when coming the wrong way down the road were two youths on bicycles being only moderately stupid but as we crossed a minor road they together swerved dangerously and at the last minute to come down said street and make us move fast out of their way. We both yelled at them (in English) and they turned again to come back and one of them clipped Ruth across the head. There was then a protracted follow-up with Bob on his bike, assistance from an Argentinian witness and others joining in the interrogation of friends of the - now fled - perpetrators. Some time later Bob arrived back at the ranch with a slip of paper which said (in Spanish) "A dark-haired boy on a bicycle slapped an old lady!" and the word "Jerezano" which we took to be a name of some sort.

Archive photo

The incident festered overnight and we decided such lack of respect couldn´t go unchallenged so next day Greyrocks went to the only secondary school in town and asked to see the principal. La directora, Alicia, was very understanding and expressed amazement and sorrow,but said she could not, say, show us mugshots without the intervention of the police, but invited us to return the next day. She looked at Bob´s slip of paper and told us it was not a name, but a description of a person from Jerez, but this didn´t help. In passing Ruth admitted her profession. Alicia said she was also a mathematician and invited R to join in with a bi-lingual teaching projrct! Next day we had to wait a while to see her again, and in the mean time got a pretty good sense of what life is like there, and also thought we saw the little blighter involved looking distraught outside her office, but it wasn´t! When we got in she introduced us to another younger teacher, who also expressed regret about the incident, explained they had not identified the culprit amongst the 350 boys, and moved swiftly on to try and convince Ruth to volunteer! Watch this space!

A postscript is that some days later we were having lunch in Domingo´s and were convinced a lad sitting close to us with his mother was the one! His mother didn´t like the way we were looking (staring?) at him and involved Domingo, then confronted us in denial. It all left a nasty taste in the mouth, and we haven´t been back!

Hey, Junior, behave yourself!

Births and Beyond

Finally Greyrocks has found a new pastime to  stretch the little grey cells: Genealogy!

 Early in the month Bob was contacted by a circuitous route about a distant relative. Whilst waiting for firm information we started investigations using one of the dedicated internet sites and hours have spent developing a joint family tree which is now at around 450 people. If you think you are one of them then get in touch!

Talking ´bout my generation

"That´s the way to do it!"

"Throw the baby down the stairs"

Not for the first time those who plan these things for our municipio came up with a carnival theme that seemed good at first sight but proved to be a problem on the fancy dress front!

"World of Toys"! Claire at Blue Rock rose to the challenge and the bar was decorated with representations of Lego, Scalextric, Etch-a-Sketch etc:- all inanimate objects and it failed to inspire Greyrocks! And then, well into the week itself the muse arrived. Ruth would go as Judy - a puppet and thus qualifying. The traditional slapstick seaside show is not part of Spanish culture, but Hey!  As the costume came together we realised she would resemble the model outside an old town unremarkable restaurant, and indeed on the night the only recognitions outside the Brit-Irish community were a local addressing Ruth as "cocinera" - cook on account of the sausages and an Italian who said "Pulcinello"! We ate at Chicken George´s as usual for a (warm) view of the carnival procession, which was a pretty good one. The best costume on the streets was a pack of four beautiful chicas dressed in fluffy white net frocks with red or black symbols for each suit of cards! Ruth lost the "slapstick" and bits of the baby along the way. Later, at the Rock, we walked straight  past the Sandies who were in native American dress with black wigs.

Bob refused to do anything along the Punch line but did wear and use occasionally the very silly Papa Lazarou T-shirt donated by Chloë, thus making another reference that would mean nothing to most people in town, but caused hilarity amongst some! By the end of the evening he felt that one was enough on the wives front!

Greyrocks and their physio -RRRo

Other staff, and punters

Earlier in the week we went for Bob´s first sessions of physiotherapy for the frozen shoulder. He was getting 3 sessions a week for five weeks paid for by the Canarian Health Service. Ruth was coming to the end of her sessions at the same place very much paid for by Greyrocks! The first session was about Ruth translating what the staff wanted to say to him, the second involved taking in food! Ruth had been given notice that the morning would be "fiesta de carnaval", so arriving for 10.30 am we saw the venue had a table heaving with a bizarre range of goodies and a few tinnies in the ice-pack fridge. Furthermore there was a bag of masks, wigs and garlands.  All pretty silly - but Hey! that's Carnaval!

"Oh, yes we did!"

There is general agreement that this December and January were outstandingly warm and dry:- like winter used to be over here! On 30th Greyrocks set off on the first of two post-Christmas short breaks, hoping - but not expecting - February to continue the pattern. The focus was for Panto time! Goa prevented us from attending last year´s, so we were determined to make the most of this one and booked three nights in a hotel in Caleta de Fuste and bought tickets for Saturday night from Anne - the Corralejo wing of the delightfully named Caleta Repertory Amateur Productions. She lives near Greyrocks and when Ruth met her to collect she explained that she was the script writer of this epic: "Ali Babba and the Four Tea Thieves"!! The weather there was better than for the November trip and Ruth´s knee was very much improved, so we were able to walk around, and did so - visiting parts not seen by Ruth since the 90´s! We also made two visits to the Geranios spa, ate two good dinners (one at 15 and one at the highly rated and somewhat Portuguese Fado Rock), and had a couple of rides on the "wally trolley".

 The Glitter Boys

The pantomime itself was a romp:- not professional, of course, but witty, creatively set and very well-received. There was audience-participation, including references to the rivalry between Caleta and Corralejo, and plenty of money was raised for charity. (Read more on Page 45 of the February edition of "Fuerte extra"!) Next day  - which was delightfully sunny although windy - we spent the afternoon at what is now known as Luna Blue, but is part of one of the Elba hotels. This was on the recommendation of Anne after Ruth told her of our long acquaintance with Kennie (Sadie) Delaine, who is now settled with Mark and they perform as The Glitter Boys and have acquired a huge fan-base of mature ladies. Not all the repertoire was to Greyrocks´ taste but it was a great excuse for some wine in the sun and we had a brief conversation with Kennie and his Mum.

Pirate Territory!

2 Montmatre dinners: 2 Valentine Roses!

Our second trip took place ten days or so later and was by ferry to Lanzarote, where we spent four nights in Costa Teguise, staying in a good hotel with spa and gym facilities. On the way over there was an uncomfortable ten minutes of rough sea, but then all was well and we managed the two stage bus journey well passing through Uga - where the smoked salmon comes from, and Yaiza - where some good wine is made.  We almost got right where to get off the second bus, but not quite so that we came to appreciate that the location is rather remote, but on the walk we passed a restaurant which led to two real high spots in the stay, and a burst of Trip Advisor reviews. Overall the little break was worthwhile, but the North wind was appalling, and there was a permanent threat of rain. We used taxis a lot to get around, and found some of the really tatty bits of the resort, along with the Pueblo Marinero, which we discovered rather late in the stay. Back at the hotel we were delighted by the excellent buffet breakfast and were tempted to eat once in the evening, but we had not known about the dress code, so were unable to do so! The free spa is extensive and well-maintained, but the swimming pool was too deep for Bob, and the exercise bikes tied up in activities for the Triathlon/Iron Man participants that abounded, so we didn´t quite have the programme we had imagined! But we did get to IKEA:- a fascinating experience which has resulted in a bed due for delivery in a week or so! 

Arrecife! Not quite Croydon or Bristol!

As departure time loomed we started considering contingency plans in case of ferry stoppages - such was the strength of the wind, but all that happened was that after a particularly easy journey back down to Playa Blanca we decided to take the earlier crossing rather than lunch near the harbour, and it was a smoother trip than the outward one:- largely due to the wind direction. (As we passed the Armas larger ship going in the northward direction we were most relieved not to be on it!)

The change of plan gave more time for us to turn round before the annual meeting of our residence. This ritual is very boring, but Ruth did -  as instructed - "get cross in Spanish" about the intercom breakdown, resulting in the offer of the presidency! (An offer declined on ground of being only half-time residents!)

And also on the domestic front there was jubilation when Michele from FVC Global came and attacked the disgusting condition of Greyrocks´ oven, which had the traces of thirteen years of neglect and abuse. Worth every centimo and deserving a plug, so here it is!

When we had landed from Lanzarote on the Monday it was very windy and rather cold (as it had been over there!). As the week progressed we moved into some of the nastiest weather we have seen for a long time. By Wednesday it was extra duvet on the bed (down allegedly to 6 degrees occasionally when the usual minimum is 15), daytime TV and scratch suppers! On Thursday morning we had to brave the chill to go for GP appointments. Whilst we waited amidst the chaos caused by numerous staff absences there was a surge to the windows and the announcement that it was raining. It certainly was, and the island has not been developed with this inind! After seeing our (?new? stand-in??)  doctor we sheltered in the nearby supermarket, and then a cafeteria and then just had to "go for it". Dramatic stuff! Friday evening saw the opening parade to Carnival. It must have been a soggy occasion :- we stayed in and watched Lewis! But this disgusting spell came to an end by Saturday and reportage on said Carnival follows! (On Monday a temperature of 42 degrees was seen on a pharmacy display!)

What goes round comes round!

There was great jubilation in the Greyrocks household last week when Ruth was able to report that she had turned the pedal (albeit in the wrong direction!) of the exercise bicycle during Physiotherapy! There were only a few slow and painful rotations, but as it is almost six months since she was last able to ride a bike this was indeed cause for celebration and a real ride on a real bike remains a major goal!

Since the knee replacement wheels have meant the hired wheelchair, and this was returned on Tuesday. It had not been used much of late but we retained it until the departure of Chloë and Jack. Ruth's mobility is improving day-by-day, but confidence is the key. Watch this space for news (and photo?) of a February launch.

Essentially what we ate for NYE!

One essential use of the wheelchair was around New Year. We received a last-minute invitation for the evening from Jill and Dave, but had already booked and paid for a meal at Marquesina. Nonetheless we dropped in which meant climbing two steep staircases. It was worth it for the  company, and the spread, which we had to eschew - was impressive, but the effort and discomfort took its toll. By having our NYE dinner at Marquesina Greyrocks was resuming an abandoned practice. We had done so (we think) each year from 1992 to 2003. In 2004 and 2005 the Great Fire meant we missed out on being in town, but from then on we have been relishing in Caracoles' surprise menu. The desire for lobster took us back in time to the newly tarted-up Marquesina, and it was well worth it! Unfortunately having enjoyed a leisurely meal we faced a couple hours until midnight, a biting wind, a wheelchair and crowded bars so we trundled home and fell asleep barely registering the end of 2015!

Next day - after traditional "Round the Horne" we went trundling again - this time to Blue Rock which was serving Bloody Mary and various worthies had brought sausage rolls etc. The sun shone and it was packed. Ruth sat in the wheelchair and felt like the Queen Mother having moved on to the gin! Then we went home and had a repeat of Xmas dinner.

The weather through January has been what we hope for but have not been getting for several years. The sea is still too cold for bathing but we have had some beautifully sunny afternoons. One exception was the eve of Kings Day when Their Majesties arrive in the morning from Lanzarote and later process down the main drag. The weather was disgusting and for the first time Greyrocks did not bother with even a glimpse. The day itself was fine, the town heaving for the holiday and we took a stroll during the afternoon and had an early Indian! At last the festivities were over! Normality with its three physio sessions per week resumed.

Chloë and Jack spent nine days with us later in the month, and the weather was particularly good. They largely did their own thing but we took them to the Bahia Real spa for J's birthday  This included a long lunch at Coco Beach where they developed a taste for a Tenerife white wine! Expensive tastes, that girl!

"All I want for Christmas is a New Right Knee!"

.. and here it is:

(specifically a Genesis 2, by Smith and Nephew)!

It goes without saying that this is an odd festive season for Greyrocks!  Not only is there the hospitalisation in the run-up and Ruth's reduced mobility, but it is also the first true "empty nest" one as Chloë has always been with us for either Christmas or New Year, but this year she has her first in Bristol with Jack, and won't be over until they both come in mid-January. Low key, then, is the order of the day!

During the first week of December there were two pre-op trips to Puerto del Rosario, then it was the dreaded Puento - the 6th to 8th holiday when Corralejo sees an influx of Spanish tourists! Nonetheless, we went to the spa for what we anticipated would be the last time for a while. It was more crowded than previously, but still a delight, and we also made a serious lunch trip to their beach restaurant in rather inclement weather. "An arm and a leg" was indeed shelled out there to mark an almost recovered arm, and imminent relief for the leg!

Surgery took place on the afternoon of 10th, with an epidural administered  by the Italian anaesthetist, and took about two and a half hours. What can be said about a second major orthopaedic operation in four months? Not much of worth, except that both surgeons were wonderful, and the pain afterwards ghastly! The in-patient care, of course, was comfortable and attentive this time round. The clinic is located in central Puerto, close to the main church and public square, so there was a lot of raucous noise on three of the four nights. The TV was standard Spanish terrestrial but we found the button for getting English dialogue and watched end-to-end NCIS and Star Wars feature films - regularly punctuated by ads: ninety percent of which were for expensive fragrances! What is this obsession with perfume?  We had paid for Bob to stay there too and he took himself off into town for walks, internet and meals, and - indeed - to book three nights in a hotel. This seemed a better option than going home whilst Ruth was still struggling to walk, and it meant we could also have the first four sessions physiotherapy close by. There were four of these  - which were quite gentle in the circumstances, administered by a Venezuelan physiotherapist in a cavern of a place where all manner of clients - including several young boys - were also getting the treatment. Great for Ruth's Spanish!

Arthritis; rising above it!

During the stay at the hotel in Puerto del Rosario Ruth was able to make short walks with one crutch so that the Greyrocks could once more enjoy the sun and some better - if still simple - food. It also became clear that the front seat of an ordinary taxi was adequate for getting about so that when we returned home a week after the operation that is what we used, and Ruth was able to get up the stairs surprisingly easily. A hired wheelchair was delivered later in the day.

The run-up to the festive season was then dominated by taxi-rides to the clinic on the other side of town where Ruth was entitled to the remainder of the thirty physiotherapy sessions, some outings by wheelchair or taxi and shopping done by Bob. The physio. sessions have a bizarre nature with aspects of social club. The regulars include stroke victims like the retired orthopaedic surgeon ("heal thyself?"), highly motivated surfers and sports-people and bands of elderly bussed in from the campo and speaking Majorero. We even had a birthday cake! The therapy is working and having seen the sainted surgeon Ruth is considered to be making remarkable progress. Next stop the exercise cycle and then the real thing. We can also - after the holiday congestion - get back to the spa!

The festive meal was a goose breast on Christmas Eve night followed by profiteroles from the French patisserie. A good job we liked it as yesterday we heard that the pheasant ordered for New Years Day had not arrived, so it will be a repeat! Frustrating and the washing machine broke down irreparably at the same time as we got the news! Thank you, 2015! It has been largely grim for Greyrocks along with the rest of humanity! The good bits are the new knee and getting Chloë settled in Bristol.

A HAPPY (BETTER) 2016 TO YOU!

In Search of the "Feel Good" Factor

November progressed well until the final week with great weather, a day visit from Lanzarote by Goa (and Derbyshire) friends John and Tracey, plenty of sea swimming and some investigation of the music scene around town. We were engaged in that at Rock Cafe when there were newsflashes about the Paris shootings, plunging us into despair! And then, -in a repeat of last (and several other) years - it was the birthday break and time for winter to start!

The spa at Geranios Suites 4*

 Gran Canaria was out because of awaited hospital appointments, so it was dear old Caleta de Fuste by bus again for Greyrocks. It is easy to be snobbish about the resort, which is predominantly British package in clientèle; but we have our two favoured haunts (a tapas bar and a British-run restaurant) to pull us in, and there are good hotel deals to be had, We booked three nights at the Geranios Suites, and were very comfortable there:- apart from the weather! There was a lot of sheltering from the cold wind and threatened rain; but the meal at "15" was almost up to standard and a new discovery:- "555" - was so good we dined there twice. (There is an outbreak, not fully explicable, in numbers as eatery names in Caleta:- bizarre!)

On the last full day Greyrocks decided the sea and outdoor pool were just too uninviting and bit the bullet by taking up a special offer for the hotel spa. It was the first such experience on the island, and now we are hooked! Such was the bliss of warm water, various bubbling and spraying bits, peace and space for swimming and exercises that we were back again next morning before checking out! On our way to the bus station in Puerto del Rosario we visited the public  hospital to try and resurrect Bob's cardiology project. We were sent from pillar to post but emerged with an appointment with a nurse who is the "outward and visible sign" of the cardiologist for the next day. We went for tapas by the ferry port and ultimately for an evening appointment at the private clinic and were told the date for Ruth's knee replacement: December 10th. Since then we have had a number of related appointments, financial jiggery-pokery, and aspects of planning to work towards that day; and Bob has been settled into an anti-coagulant regime which we hope will be proven to be over-cautious and can be suspended. The sense of getting old and there being no let-up in health matters is overwhelming!

The spa at the Bahia Real 5*

Bulletins will be issued during Ruth's hospitalisation of 3-5 days!

The Coco Beach Bar and Restaurant

Corralejo's weather had been no better, and some half-hearted attempts to bathe in the sea failed, so - both delighted by the spa experience and needing the therapy before the op. - Greyrocks went down to 5* Bahia Real Hotel at the other end of town to see what deals could be secured. The centre is bigger than the one in Caleta, and the entry price entitles you to stay all day and visit the hotel's restaurants for lunch (arm and a leg, of course!)  We loved it so much and got so much vital exercise there for our varied ailments that we signed up for season tickets, and have been practising phrases such as "We deserve it!", "You can't put a price on Health", "We don't have any other expensive tastes" and  "There are no pockets in shrouds". Yesterday we visited for the day not knowing when or how we would do so again given the imminence of the surgery.


Watch this space for (suitably truncated) news of Ruth's knee thing and recovery!

A Shoal Lot Better!

New adornments at the Marina

Montana Roja

Things chez Greyrocks have been steadily improving through the month that we have been back home in Corralejo. When we were picked up by Dave we were told that the summer had been very hot, but there had recently been a lot of rain. As we drove past Montana Roja there was a torrent of rain pouring down and out into the sea making the largest area of discoloured water ever seen here by us and Dave. This was a portent!



Inauguration in June of renovated "Molino"

There was nothing untoward in the apartment or the complex, and Greyrocks was soon settled in. The legacy of recent storms was, however, very evident in puddles and wet furniture. Next day we spent the day on a series of household and health tasks, including a lengthy wait at the Post Office, which has moved back to its previous location and now faces one of the many improvements in town.  In this case it is the reopening of a tasteful pedestrian square surrounding a very old renovated windmill- bringing to three the number of mills in town. Read on for more on environmental developments 

October 23rd!

The rain was apparently just around the corner, but it held off for the day - only catching us at Avenidas in the evening;(leading to free drinks whilst a taxi was called for us);but this was the start of three days of dramatic thunderstorms:- good for hunkering down and getting jobs done, but not great for tourists ! Since that spell, however, and for November as a whole it has been unusually pleasant, with only three poor days.

 

 

Muelle Chico (Town Beach)

 

 

 Greyrocks has been monitoring the weather particularly closely since embarking on a new regime of swimming for health! It started with an attempt to enter our own pool on the first decent day, and motivated by the fact that the wrist meant no cycling for Ruth. Unfortunately it also meant gripping the rail of the steps was also impossible, so that was another worthy venture abandoned! Next day we tried the town beach so that the sea could be entered by walking, and we have been going there (or occasionally at Waikiki beach) on almost every day since. Not bad for November, eh? One of the few impossible days was October 28th when - following on from the Full Moon, there was the highest tide in living memory, which completely covered the town beach bringing down intricate sand sculptures and washed over our local prom. The swims are not exactly extensive or elegant, but have helped the wrist flexibility and probably not harmed the knees, although it often doesn't feel that way.

 

On the subject of inundations there is no let-up in the Italian invasion. It has become the third language in town, a dozen more coffee shops have opened along with a few trendy clothes shops and - of course - some restaurants! Prices for renting homes long-term have escalated with competition for good places, and stereotypical behaviour is evident everywhere. Nor has there been any reduction in the number of surfers and facilities for them. As previously written they are considered by Greyrocks to be a Good Thing for the community and its economy, but the combination of several Italian surfers on skateboards isn't!

 

 

 

Artist's impression of the new Brisamar

The "powers that be" would far rather court the five-star market, and two prominent hotels are being constructed. One was well underway when we left in the Spring, taking up most of the Hoplaco Gardens site on the Main Street. The other came as a great surprise! The Barceló group have knocked down - during November - the rather dated Brisamar buildings (also on Main Street) removing a parade of shops and the private clinic along with a whole tourist complex. Watch this space! Very recently, however, the policy of only allowing 5star development has been ruled illegal at national level, so maybe a more interesting future is around the corner.

The town rubbish and cleaning lorries now announce that this is a "Municipio Touristico y Selecto", and in our absence and finalising in our first few weeks there has been some serious tarting up of the town centre:- not just the mill and fish, but some very welcome (by Greyrocks but not motorists!) pedestrianisation. It started before we left in April with remodelling of the street behind the Atlantico Centre and passing La Taberna and Boogaloos to the police station. This is now completed with trendy street furniture and  large palms, giving scope for bars and restaurants to spill out onto the wide pavement. Boogaloos in particular has undergone a major expansion in this respect and is an attractive proposition for live music, although whether this can survive the winter evening chill remains to be seen.

The main street is not fully pedestrianised but from the (sadly removed) Dove Statue down to the (soon to be removed) Shell Station and up two blocks of Lepanto there is little traffic now and wider pavements with a real sense of cafe life.

And so to the inevitable changes in Greyrocks´ restaurant selection. Some closures of places we have used are our local: the Cafe Lounge (rumoured to be taken over by one the most highly rated restaurants in town, but nothing is yet happening there), the second Brazilian Rodizio (on Lepanto), the Lazy Lounge near the harbour, Belen near WaiKiki beach (replaced in the last two weeks by a large, flash restaurant and lounge bar - Toro Beach), H20 (still there but tranferred to unremarkable Italian ownership), Scarpetta which relocated to the mall near 7 Pints, LÁtelier des Saveurs on the cobble street is now an Italian bar specialising in craft beers, Casa Richard next door to Blue Rock (currently still empty but rumoured to be going Italian), Ali´s Tavern next door to that (has changed hands and name twice over the summer and is now Italian) and - saddest of all - Caracoles! Bob bumped into Carlos and Sylvia on a Tuesday and head it had closed on the previous Friday in response to Carlos´ health problems. It had been on Greyrocks´ list of "must do" and we had missed it after all the years of enjoying their lovely "posh tapas". No prizes for guessing the nationality of the new owners!

So we have some new places to try, and indeed have already experimented once with the up-market Belgian-run Tuxedo at the top of town, being (soon) Greyrocks´ one new Trip Advisor entry for Corralejo.

Otherwise as November progressed there were some cold evenings and nights, a few miserable cloudy or wet days, more wrist recovery breakthroughs, some frustrations with the Health Service and a short birthday break. More narrative on these to follow!