"It's Tuesday - it must be...!"

.. probably Barcelona.. or possibly Athens!
This year we needed a swift migration to Crete, so the key was the new flight from B to A (and back) provided by Vueling - Iberia's low cost airline. So the route was from Girona airport by Bus to Barcelona's coach station, and a short walk to Hostal La Isla, which we had booked on line but had trouble locating in reality, as it is quite new and hidden in a residential apartment block. It is ideally located though, and we took a stroll down to Plaza de Catalunya (left) in bright sunshine, popped into Las Ramblas and then went for very pleasant tapas with a Catalan flavour. Next day we took a bus down to Catalunya and the airport bus to Terminal 1. Vueling's bag drop was instant, and despite the cheap price there are allocated and comfortable seats. A good flight, somewhat under 3 hours! We are fans! We took the airport bus directly from the terminal to the Crete gate at Piraeus port, and whilst Ruth logged on to the port's free WiFi Bob visited Lidl for French wine:- likely to be our last for some months! We had treated ourselves to a better cabin, and were allowed to board early, so it was all very relaxed, but a bit chilly on deck as the sun went down and we partook of ANEK gyros, as is traditional! Reveille at 4.50 am is also traditional, but as foot passengers we were able to hang around and disembark at leisure before getting the 7 am city bus into Chania. The bus station building has had a minor facelift and is now - of course - smoke-free, but the 8.30 bus departures are chaotic with more services and very large vehicles. We arrived in Paleo at 10.15, and were safely installed in our home by 10.30.

"Bonne Navigation!" & "Au Revoir, La France!"

 Despite attempts to avoid it and stick to sunbathing there was eventually no alternative! We had to do the (slightly) serious à deux cycle ride! We drove back up the coast to Port-La-Nouvelle, and parked next to this rather lovely mural depicting the past glory of the town. We then negotiated some repair works and found the towpath alongside the Canal de la Robine and went up and back a 13km stretch. This runs through the newly designated Nature Reserve of L'Ile de Sainte Lucie.

The topography here is intruiging! With the sea on one side and the Etang on the other the narrow spit of land at points is not much wider than the parallel canal, railway line and towpath. We saw a lot of water, some birds, a couple of cruisers and a few other cyclists. Our turning point was the lock at Mandirac, which we have previously seen by road. There is a delightful bar-restaurant there, next to a very old Dutch barge, which we wish we had known about before packing the picnic. The ride back was with a cold side wind, which unfortunately masked the very hot sun. Ruth had forgotten to put sunscreen on her face, so the next few days featured pain and disfigurement, as well as well-used leg muscles! A stupid beginner's mistake!

For our last few days in France the weather became a bit more "iffy", with a heavy rainstorm and some very high winds. Bob went exploring in a different direction and found the largest solar farm in France, and a pleasant resort with large marina at Sainte Marie. We were leaving on the Monday, so went there by car on the Sunday for a lunch of moules and assorted Catalan goodies, and in the (very chilly) evening we went to the promenade in Canet and made a quick choice of restaurant, which turned out to be a good one - except that Ruth sampled one of Bob's oysters! Oh dear!

We left La France on Monday 16th May. We crossed the Pyrenees on the E15 in fairly good weather, and went to the Fiat dealer near Girona, which had confirmed in an email that they could supply a rear windscreen wiper. The mechanic there was really helpful, and sorted it all out, and we took Yvette back to her winter home, so that we could go to Barcelona.

Fête de la Victoire

(and Greyrocks has found a way to insert accents!)
We enjoyed some more sunny weather - although as yet tempted by neither pool nor sea - and made good use of the bikes. On Monday 2nd, which is not a holiday in France, we took the A9 south to Canet en Roussillon, near Perpignan. We had arranged ten days at Le Brasilia, which is a huge but delightful 5* campsite, and a real favourite. We had to pay the full seasonal price for two nights, but then a lower one kicked in and we got a great deal on a bungalow, like that used for emergency shelter when we were victims of a storm in 2008. This one is named Perdrix, and is perfectly fine :- if old; and since last year the whole site has WiFi, so Happy Days! Early days were very busy - particularly with Dutch, but it is now quieter.
The weather has been excellent, and just ambling by bike down to the long seafront via the newly extended marina is a joy. On Sunday May 8th we veered round a bend and saw tanks and tents! We had missed the publicity so this was a complete surprise. A full replica of a World War 2 army camp was installed on the beach, and some sixty or so vehicles - including a Sherman tank - were on display along with enthusiasts dressed as everything from US General to tarty French maid! Later as we consumed our moules a fair number of the vehicles paraded past. Much tooting and waving, and finally a Glenn Miller tribute band on the prom!

Bob then cycled further along the front to get to St Cyprien, which was also en fête- having a little carnival!

We are Republicans - get us out of here - perhaps to Socialist heaven!

The French bit of the Spring Migration has turned out to comprise 10-day stays in each our current two favourite locations in the Midi :- Agde and Canet. The weather has been wonderful - a bit of wind, chilly evenings, but gloriously sunny days and rain only in an odd night! The only blemish has been dramatic clouds of white seed stuff from some unidentified but prevalent tree (marine pine, cottonwood, poplar?), which gets into everything including orifices! And on the subject of getting up one's nose....
How wonderful not to be in the UK! We got a good deal on WiFi, so have been listening to BBC Radio 4 until even it started on the fawning and infantalising advance coverage of that wretched and expensive wedding on April 29th! Enough! We declared the day as a BBC-free day and went for a drive to look at other towns on or near coast and canal. Pezenas was very pleasant:- rather Bohemian and with free live jazz in the main square!
One day Bob did a very serious canalside bike ride to Beziers and back. Here are some of the images:

He arrived back at the ranch just as it started to rain!
Later in the stay we both rode a section of his route - taking the bikes on the car as far as Villeneuve de Beziers and using the excellent path to get to the famous 9 (now 8) locks at Fonséranes. The place was heaving with tourists arrived by bike, car, coach and boat. We watched many skillfill manoevres over some Beaujolais and baguette de saucisson  from our picnic bundle, and then rode back!

Another trip was to the wonderful city of Montpellier. We had heard of the delights of this regional capital from George and (RIP) Penny, but had never been there! We went by train from Agde, and - yes - this was so much better as an experience than anything British! Clean, punctual, well-staffed, . etc! As for the city - you step from the train to the tram, and can travel all day for 5 euros. (Well you can if you have coins and not a note.. but that is another story less flattering to the French!)

The historic city is grandiose - with wide boulevards, and a particularly lovely cental place, where the original egg shape is outlined in marble. A huge part of the inner city is completely pedestrianised, with a bike-loan scheme and the two excellent tram lines (soon to be three, despite the crisis!) Its cathedral is a bit dull, and it has no significant ancient relics, so what is the charm? Well, it's the modernity! A rampant Socialist mayor got on and did things for the public good. He fell out of favour, then died, but the legacy is all around - in the naming of streets and places, the transport system and the amazing public buildings:- particluarly in the Antigone area, where the regional offices are in this Defence-type arch by the river, and surrounding huge edifices are stunning!

 

Ah! Cuisine francaise - but perhaps not as we know it!

A really easy getaway from the parking lot. They are SO good!
Then we drove over the Pyrenees and straight to Le Grau d'Agde and Les Mimosas, where we thought it would be trivial to get a mobile home for a week or so. Not so! They did a lot of fiddling and then found us 3-bedroom one at 2-bedroom price! Madame in fact did remark on the potential for conjugal arguments! Jolly fine too, so at the end of the week we took three more nights. We had pretty good weather throughout - (just one wet evening!) - and - as praised last autumn - there are the three zones well-linked by cycle tracks, and all with great restaurants. But - of course - this isn't a holiday, so restraint must be exercised, with a good proportion of home catering and cheap cafeterias!
On the first night we went down to the nearby Hyper-U and its Crescendo cafeteria. We picked up a bowl of mixed salad and went to a neighbouring table for dressing. Bob thought something looked like a thick vinaigrette and poured on copious amounts. It wasn't!

To paraphrase:

"The dressing that's a blessing smells of mustard - not of custard!

Tho' no label there's a ladle for the brew that is true!"

(We still wonder if the bowl we hid at the back of the counter might have emerged and given a punter a shock!)

Later in the week we decided to risk THE OYSTER!

Ruth has been reluctantly avoiding them since two very nasty and messy incidents in the Vendee and Whitstable in 2004 and 2005 respectively! So with baited breath and confronted by wonderful displays of seafood beside the marina in Cap d'Agde, we bought a mixed plate. Totally delicious - especially with the local Picpoul de Pinet! And the good news is - no allergy!

"In-gerr-land":- the glory and the shame!

The first phase of our migration was a short trip to UK. (It should have been a week, but Ryanair - bless 'em!- moved the outward flight) Prices to fly direct were appalling so we went via Madrid, which gives us a residents' discount for the first leg and plenty of low-cost choice for getting into Gatwick. The down side is - of course - hanging around Barajas airport; but this is not unpleasant. We were inconvenienced by Easyjet refusing to take our bags early because there was an earlier flight and "our bags might get confused". Mmm! Anyway we survived this, and the hidden cafeteria to get onto a completely full but on-time flight, a rapid reclaim, and a fast train to arrive at the Travelodge earlier than expected!

(A warning aside about hand baggage:- Over the last few  weeks we have seen the boarding gates at several airports for Easyjet and Ryanair. Both have issued promininent warnings, but we have seen every time frequent panic, arguments and unexpected payments by those that have missed them - or thought they would get away with it! The gate queues are inspected, and there must be only one bag per person - no separate shopping - no separate handbag, however small! Anything dodgy is tested in the gauge - and in the case of Ryanair weighed - then it's pay up or leave it behind! This is not without stress!)

 

This time we were very lucky indeed with the weather, and the grudgingly packed heavy clothes remained untouched! We visited Balham twice in relation to the rented house (and the chiropodist and Bonmarche). For three nights we were with Neil and Maggie, where the garden was glorious. To make some recompense for always - these days - being the guests we had arranged that we would do an OPK dinner party for them and Paul and Cheryl. (That's Other People's Kitchens - just in case!) Therefore on Maundy Thursday we took a train to London Bridge, took a short walk along the Thames, had a drink at a pub full of both tourists and champagne-swigging office workers, and then "did" Borough Market. Unfortunately (!) it was so hot that it wasn't safe to buy too much that was perishable. We made posh tapas, and had a wonderful time, with much jollity, noting the fact that all three men present have now experienced forced early retirement from public service, and emerged the other end to find what they want!

On Good Friday we went back to Croydon Travelodge and in the evening took a tram over to Morden for dinner with Mick and Jenny of Paleochora fame. Another delightful soiree, starting in a loved garden, and ending up with too-much wine!

On Easter Saturday we went uptown again - this time for a walk around some favourite spots! Leicester Square was a shock:- completely closed off for some Olympics-related nonsense, and on the South Bank there is an exhibition celebrating the Festival of Britain 60 years age. This is great fun, with a "beach", a huge "urban fox" on a roof, and a row of beach huts designed and filled by a range of artists. As we sat outside the NFT we heard thunder, and there followed a quick dash in the rain back to Waterloo and thence to Croydon!

But the sun was back by Easter Sunday morning, and we had arranged to meet Chloe in Brighton. Predictably we were not the only people choosing to go there on such a nice day, so trains were completely full, and we had to let several continue without us! When we left the station we first saw a phalanx of police and a cordonned-off forecourt. Mystery! Then we heard the chanting. On one side of the station area was a group of flag-waving English Defence League thugs in a pub, and on the other (well outnumbering them) were anti-fascist demonstrators. The police were funneling the public between them, so that they could get down to the seafront. There was serious police presence including many on horses. It seems this was all in honour of St George's Day. We sheltered in a pub by a window and saw the march proceed down the hill. All the stereotypes of racists were there! Ruth hurled some mild abuse, and a police officer made eye contact. We had a small interchange about them not being the target - this time at least! Mercifully the number in the march was rather pathetic!

Chloe joined us and we went for our planned lunch. This year the Easters of both Western and Orthodox calendars coincided so her Greek housemate Giorgos was looking for  traditional Easter lamb. Chloe located this excellent taverna on the seafront, and we feasted on tender lamb bought by the kilo, lemon potatoes and tsatsiki. Yum! We were joined by Charlie and her older friend Heather. Needless to say the place was full of Greeks. Afterwards we walked along the promenade and the beach, both of which were as full as we have ever seen them. Then we took a taxi to Chloe's house to dump the warm clothes, and back to the station! On Monday (a UK Bank Holiday) we finished off the shopping and went slowly to Gatwick, where we killed time till check-in and then had a very pleasant meal at Cafe Rouge. We arrived at Girona airport  just before midnight and walked to the handily-located Hotel Vilobi, passed the night and next day picked up Yvette from her hibernation.

Shades of Blues

Once again Carnaval was followed by the Blues Festival.  It was a little more restrained this year - with no seated (paying) concerts, but there were two nights of free three-act shows in the big plaza, and two afternoons of "street blues" around the town.
And the sun shone! Chloe was with us for 11 days. She had brought 12 academic books with her and had to spend a lot of time on her dissertation, so not much beach time, but she got the tan she was after, saw some good music and ate some good food - both out and at home. She came with us for the Friday night free music. We spent both nights listening at La Plaza, which has become a favourite tapas bar. This is behind the stage, but we could sit down, which was important after the injury! All the acts were excellent, especially Red House and The Brew (from Grimsby)! A charming incident was meeting there John and Dave :- old chums that we often meet only at airports, and who cook at Cordon Blue. They were full of the fact that they were just back from UK (Rochdale) where thay had got "married". Next day Ruth was on the prowl for suitable artwork for a card, and found it.

Our final week saw some lovely sunny weather, which brought out the boats, and indeed there was a small regatta in and around the harbour. Chloe left on the Wednesday, so we all went to the airport with Eileen and waited in the outdoor bar, roasting! We then had a few days to close down, although a policy decision has been taken that we will not normally let out the apartment, so there was less clearance and cleaning to be done, and we can store the bikes inside, All much more mellow than for previous departures! Bob caught "the cold" which meant no gym, and some missed goodbyes before we left on Sunday 17th. It was a good six months, with few problems, better weather and the two little breaks of GC and Goa. Nice!!