We are the champion (and the dead loss)!

We had two weeks or so between the return from GC and the arrival of Chloe. In the middle we embarked on the repair of the raised tiles in the kitchen. Our janitor (who is Uruguayan and has no English) came round, inspected and returned twice with friends for further consulations about how many tiles would have to be lifted and reset. We agreed it would be started on a Sunday morning so we warned neighbours about the noise and cleared the floor and surfaces. The noise and mess was appalling and we were exiles from the kitchen overnight and through the next morning - unable even to get to the wine glasses!

They did a beautiful job, however, with only one cracked tile from the whole exposed floor. We were then faced with the task of emptying every cupboard and drawer, and washing every single item from them.

For Chloe's arrival we borrowed Mike's older car and went down to Puerto del Rosario ahead of time. With us we had our carefully completed applications for Indian visas which needed to be sent by courier to Madrid, as part of a contorted and costly process. (We are planning three weeks in Goa in February with Airmiles collected over many, many years). We then went to the (fairly) newly opened Lidl. We have never seen anything like this on the island. A trolleyful of goodies was purchased and shoved into the boot. We headed for the airport anticipating a liesurely coffee, but as we went through the ticket barrier thare was a terrifying noise from under the bonnet. By the time we reached a parking spot there was dark smoke and a puddle of something underneath. So Chloe's punctual and jolly arrival was preceded and followed by numerous phone calls and the wait for the "grua" man. It was the final demise of the power steering and could have happened any time. There was no room for all three, the luggage and the (extensive) shopping, but as we pondered the bus options we were hailed by Cakes Eileen who was there picking up her auntie. What Luck! Ruth and Chloe and the Lidl booty got a lift to the door.

On Sunday 19th there were mince pies and mulled wine at Hot FM in the morning, followed by the "works outing". Dear Al and Val - the owners - paid for DJs and partners to bowl at CC Papagayo. We were teamed with Geordie John and Catwoman Lynne, and each of us carried away a prize. Bob took the trophy for best score, Lynne that for best girl's performance, John for runner-up and Ruth for an embarrassing lowest score overall. This was the inevitable result of having developed an unwanted spin that intrigued all onlookers. She is very good at Bowling on a Wii! A good night out! The station will be closed on 25th and 26th as so many DJs will be off the island, but Ruth is doing two extra shows (Thursdays 23rd and 30th 12 till 2) to help out. There will be no Christmas songs on her watch!

Those that can, Gran Can!

On November 22nd we flew to Gran Canaria on cheap residents' tickets, and there spent three pleasant days in Las Palmas. We eschewed this time the smelly Astoria and its bearpit breakfast room in favour of a self-catering apartment superbly located in Santa Catalina. This was a bit basic but very good value, From there it was but a few paces to Galia, where we celebrated Bob's birthday and the arrivee of the Beaujolais Nouveau! Worth the air fare just for that (the meal that is!)!

We had a good few strolls along the Canteras prom in some beautiful sunshine - though this display does rather exaggerate! It was more like 28! We also went to the previously unexplored  north end of the beach and found another of the city's bronze and very realistic statues. You could almost believe that Chris the Fish was also on a short break!

Las Palmas continues to impress! We used the efficient and cheap bus to go to the other part of the city (San Telmo) and saw the new pedestrianisation near the cathedral; but we also found a new holder for "Worst Chinese Buffet in the World" title. It needed to be amazingly bad to supplant the one in Caleta de Fuste - and it was!

On the fourth day we took the bus down to Maspalomas. We had been forced to change from our usual tourist complex as we could not make bookings - even by ringing up, but in fact we were impressed by what we did find - particularly for the price. The weather was not as good by the time we got down South, and it remained too windy throughout for the beach and sea. On the first evening we strolled over to the strange Faro 2 centre with many ideas for eating. The first bar we encountered was permanently closed, and the next... The Dutch guys with a little drinks hut in the middle told us that almost everything had been closed. The whole upper story was empty - and that meant several of the places we liked were gone. The cause is a combination of the developer's suspicious behaviour, and the closure of many of the bungalow complexes that surround it. So that explained a few things! We found an adequate substitute restaurant, but again we remarked on the irritating attitude of the waiters in these resorts!

On Sunday the weather was threatening and we retreated to the complex. During Sunday night there was a huge storm. In the morning there was no rain and Bob went forth to the supermarket. Suddenly  the heavens opened. He could find no shelter so returned like a drowned rat. It rained for 24 hours! We were comfortable enough in our little duplex with a wine supply, old TV programs on the laptop and Canarian TV's news on the storm. It was worse in Tenerife, and not so dramatic back home in Fuerte! In the evening folk were waiting half an hour for taxis to take them around. We untypically but usefully used the voucher for a free buffet dinner on site and waited to see out the rain. In true Canarian style by the next lunchtime there was warm sunshine and a blue sky. On the Thursday we took a bus back to the road outside the airport and struggled down the verge:- a neat trick to avoid crowds on sparse proper airport ones! Then we flew back - content with the break, but sure we had chosen the right island as home!

Comings and Goings in Corralejo

Almost five weeks now, and we have had wonderful weather:- just a few overcast mornings, some brief showers and a gradual onset of colder evenings and nights (although we still haven't needed a duvet). Mostly, however, afternoon temperatures have been above 24C - so many rays have been absorbed! Early on we went to Oliva beach for the day and we have never seen it so crowded. So - to the news:-

1. Prettifications of the Old Town

In our absence the re-paving and closing off to traffic of the Rogues Gallery road was completed and the much-trodden route to the Blue Rock was clear of hazards for our first few days and nights. This did not last! The rumour was that the vast piles of slabs nearby had been bought but could not be laid as there was no money for labour. In reality they did start - and it is ongoing, with yet more mess and change of level and the promise (or threat) of one or two water features. A consequence of the work so far is that Africa's chiringuito has been moved and transformed.  Her original corner is now a bare paved area which may soon be the terrace of (yet another) restaurant. She (with sister Toni) now has a purpose-built structure the other side of Antiguo Cafe del Puerto. She complains that she is more exposed to the wind there, and there is no love lost between her and "them next door", but it is still a lovely spot. Admirers have donated original decorations!

2. Several closures and some openings
General opinion is that tourism had a reasonable summer; but there has been a bit of a clear-out. The list is not exhaustive!

• Crepe Suzette is gone and is replaced by a cafe that rarely opens
• The Chinese near Blue Rock closed a few days after we visited it!
• Rincon de Perico nearby has been re-branded and has fancy furniture
• The huge mall on the old market site has surpringly opened and includes a new Spar supermarket
• Iceman has opened near the Campenario selling British foods
• There is still no-one running the corner bar below us
• La Nit has closed
• Terrazza (Casa del Carne) has changed hands and has the most unintelligible menu ever seen!
• There is a new bowling green run by the Robin's Nest
• A new British cafe has opened in the Hoplaco Gardens
• The Whereabouts dispute has meant a new name for the listings mag.
• The photographers in the Old Town has closed

3. The Day and Night of the Dead

We started Halloween night at Chablis:- a place Ruth had never graced with her presence in 18 years! She had won a Sunday Roast on the radio! Later we were at the Blue Rock, where the fruits of earlier roof-top craft work were evident in the Sandras' costumes.

November 1st is a Spanish National Holiday, and we were back at the Rock in the afternoon to say Goodbye to Ron- a quiet but regular customer both there and at Imagine! He had died in June aged 59, and his photograph has been over his usual spot in both places; but he was only recently cremated so this was his day.  A few friends scattered his ashes on the beach and poured over a beer, then a good crowd of us met for a "do" with food from the Casbah.  The odd tear was shed!

4.  Events

One Sunday we cycled up to the Campenario, where there is now quite a thriving craft market, and where, on this occasion, an International Half Marathon was finishing.

We have also had the 23rd Kite Festival down at the Dunes.

Last week saw Big Wednesday - when surfers went wild as waves reached 5.2 metres, and novices clashed with experts.

5. Don't stop the Music!

There has been a campaign against live music, with several closures and fines, but Rock Island and Imagine continue to offer excellent acoustic sessions, albeit with some changes of personnel. Wednesday and Sunday at Imagine feature Foreplay - Eric, Chris, Ronnie and Sue, who are superb, and down at the island Johnny from Brighton is on very regularly. Soon after we arrived we heard he and Niki had successfully brought their boat here, so we went down to the harbour to find them, and hear some of their tales of the voyage.  

And Ruth is back on the Radio. The new slot is 12 noon to 2pm on Fridays, and Mike at the Casbah is still sponsoring the show so the quiz is alive and kicking. Tune in and have a go!

Local Herault - in praise of Agde!

The last phase of the migration was spent in a location new to us, but recommended by trusted sources.

Agde is allegedly the oldest town in France, and together with its outpost at the mouth of the river Herault (Grau d'Agde), and its seaside area (Cap d'Agde) it makes a delightful place to stay. It has good (flat) cycle tracks, beautiful beaches and a vast array of restaurants. It is also on the Canal du Midi, which is a further plus!

We stayed nine nights, and the weather was glorious for October (except for the two days mentioned previously). It is very popular with the pan-European "grey" motor-home set, and the town lifts the restriction on their parking at the end of the summer making the beach car parks look like a rally of same!

Restaurants line the river at its mouth, and in the town, and around the huge marina. On the very soggy Sunday we drove to Grau and ran into a fairly randomly chosen one. What a delight - there can be no better way to deal with a wet Sunday than to lurk for hours over a French prix fixe meal!

.. but for several other days - as pensioners - we sought out the delights of hypermarket cafeterias for meals. They may not be traditional but we had some fine and very good value meals in Crescendo at the Casino site. and found a new chain - Poivre Vert - which has a seafood buffet on Fridays.  On the Saturday (16th) we cleaned up, took sheets to the laundrette and headed for Spain. Easy! We had booked into the Novotel near Girona airport - and after a picnic lunch we headed back towards Girona to find the Fiat dealer we had discovered online. Oh dear! No printer, so no map! No numbers on roadsigns - a lot of stress - a lot of wrestling with Catalan when enquiring about it - but eventually a result!  We had a good look over the new Doblo, and got all the information we needed about purchasing one in Spain, Something to think about!

We got a value meal in the old Vilobi hotel (Novotel menu was a joke!), lost 7kg of luggage after a trial weigh-in and  dropped off the car the next day with the usual ease, leaving us with hours to spend at Girona airport. Fortunately the sun shone and we had the remains of a wine-box needing disposal! Unfortunately our flight to Lanzarote was delayed by almost an hour. Still, we had vastly over-estimated the journey time from airport to ferry terminal, and the booked transfer was so fast that rather than missing the (last) 7pm ferry, we made it in time for the 6pm fast Olsen. This was our first time on this one and it really is fast:- under 20 minutes - so we were back home with the sun still shining. As we walked under our block neighbours in three different homes shouted greetings.

Raining Cane e Gatte - Chiens et Chats!

So this was the autumn migration for 2010:

1. Venice port to the Ligurian coast - 265 miles of autostrada on a Saturday - starting early. All quite civilised really, but it started to rain whilst we were on the due south run towards Genoa. Then a night in the small resort of Varazze - selected because of a cheap hotel with parking (such things don't exist in either Genoa or Ventimiglia!) This worked well :- a very run-down but comfortable place close to a pleasant promenade. Unfortunately we could not linger in exploring as it rained torrents, and we had to run into a randomly chosen ristorante just as lunch service was ending, and stay there with cheap pizza and frizzante for most of the afternoon!

2. By the morning it was dry again, and rejoined the coastal autostrada, which again - being a Sunday morning - was not too hairy traffic-wise, but is of course a long succession of tunnels and viaducts - total distance for the day @ 265 miles! The weather got better as we approached the French border, and by the time we arrived in Avignon it was gloriously sunny, making sightseeing etc a real pleasure (see last post!) A temporary feature outside the Palais des Papes is a statue of an elephant balancing on its trunk. Next day - as forecast - it poured with rain all day!

3.After bidding farewell to A and J in Carpentras stay we set off for the Mediterranean coast - objective Agde (a new venture but based on some attractive descriptions). The campsite we had our eye on was closing in a couple of days, but we found another with a real bargain of a new mobile home, plenty of space and some feline visitors. More on Agde (including the Cap and the Grau) follows, but after a couple of very pleasant days, we had two days of - yes - torrential rain! A soggy trip overall - but some sunshine too, and some delightful places!

Orange - not Red!

Before we reached Venice we heard from Alastair and Josiane that they would be in Provence on a much needed holiday at about the same time as us, so after our night in Italy (see next blog) we drove to Avignon where we were booked into the same hotel as them. We met up with them and (as you have to) we all went sur le pont, and had dinner together. They went off for a week in Carpentras the next day, but we decided to stay another night and see more, even though the weather forecast was awful!
We caught up with them in Carpentras and on a beautiful Wednesday we all went to Orange. After parking we saw an interesting apartment block beside a concert hall adorned with this sign. We take it the current council is not a socialist one!

The Roman theatre is one of very few with an intact stage, and although some repairs have been necessary it is still impressive. They have also found remains of an adjacent temple. In the museum we saw a fascinating exhibition of photographs by a bloke who had the project of documenting all Greek and Roman amphitheatres in Europe, Turkey and North Africa. Some are in a bit of a state, and some we have seen. Good stuff! Later in a bar we asked for a glass of tap water to accompany J's strong coffee. La patronne said it would be 50cents - or everyone would want one - not so good! We also wanted to see the Triumphal Arch, but it turned out to be a long and boring walk to the outskirts.

In the afternoon we had a treat! We visited a vineyard in the Chateauneuf du Pape area and "did" a degustation:- a first for us as we have been too worried about shelling out, and a first for regulars A & J because this time they were stiil (just) harvesting the grapes! We came away with a couple of bottles and a feeling that we might do it again! (St Siffrein) We then stopped on a hill immediately above C du P itself and got some great views - including of the meandering Rhone.

Later in Carpentras we discovered that it is rather a small and dull town with few restaurants (well on an October Wednesday, anyway!) but it does have good sunset views and a beautiful mimosa smell.We paid too much for dinner that was sound but somewhat overblown!

A & J were spending a week in a very unusual self-catering studio in what appeared to be old almshouses or similar institution. We were more conventionally in a hotel for two nights where the receptionist wanted to practise her English. She had been the nanny in Londonto Marco-Pierre White!

Cuts and Protests

 Our last few days in Paleo were dominated by last-minute tasks - made worse by managing at a distance a new set of London tenants moving in. The weather was patchy and we only got a last paddle in rough waves. We set off on Wednesday 29th and stopped for lunch on the Nea Hora as usual - though not unfortunately at the favoured place which remains mysteriously shut. We also stopped at a Fiat dealer to look for a windscreen wiper blade. Closed Wednesday - but a chance to look at the new Doblo!

We have been monitoring the various industrial actions related to the government austerity measures. On departure day it was the doctors on national strike, so not much to worry about there; but at Souda port there was a stationary trailer with workers protesting, and a larger than normal police presence. The ferry was fairly quiet. Next morning we were off in record time. We killed time until the sun was up (Starbucks opens at 6!) and then set off on the well-trodden route to Patras. No traffic jams! We were intrigued by this, but then at a series of toll stations and at the petrol refinery we saw very long queues of parked tankers, lorries and trailers - sometimes with drivers camped out by them. We got the feeling that the strike was about to really hit home. Leaving the country felt slightly like the action of rats, but there was also a sense of relief!

Our previous three Patras departures were to Bari and at 5pm. This time it was to be to Venice and at midnight. A very long day to kill whilst not leaving a fully-laden car unattended! The firts thing we did was to visit the Corinth canal, which we normally pass without notice. The tourist aspects of it are pretty naff - awful shops and cafeterias - but still worth a visit! It is strikingly narrow, short and deep (bungy jumping available!) and the history is now well described on new marble plaques. We then made a stop beside the sea at a random resort and saw the aged bathers. The road is still undergoing major improvement work, so there were some hairy moments. In Patras we went back to a hotel we know where we thought we might have lunch and use the WiFi, but it was barely functioning, and the WiFi down, so we drove to the other side of the city and eventually a taverna with adquatelt secure parking, and had a pleasant lunch. There were still hours to kill, but we did find a little taverna just accross from the port which would have been a much better choice, and was - in any case - a good spot for reading and people-watching until we reached the point when we thought we might be boarded. In fact we still had an age to wait, and ANEK were (surprise, surprise!) oblivious to motorists's needs and completely inefficient, so that we were not aboard until 10pm, and were stuck in the bowels of the ship. Anyway - a great upgraded cabin and a smooth voyage, with stops in the early hours of the first morning at Igonoumitsia and Corfu. It was fairly sunny during daylight hours, but - needless to say - they did not fill the pool! We got some good views of Albania!

We sailed into Venice as the sun went up. This year's disembarkation saga related to us being in the bowels at Deck 2, so many of us (well Ruth with bad knees!) wanted to use the lift. There is one, and it takes 4 people at a time! Bob went down the stairs and kept having to move the car whilst he waited. ANEK has corporate colours of yellow and blue! Like Ryanair and IKEA - you hate them, their customer service stinks, but you just keep going back!

Twin Peaks (sort of!)

 Chloe spent 16 days with us. She arrived on the bus feeling filthy and with a ton of washing after the Outlook Festival (drum and bass we are told!) in Croatia and three nights on ferry decks coming down from Venice. She was not at all unhappy to be fed and given a comfortable bed! The weather sarted well and we were all in the sea that day, but Setember is an unpredictable month and we did suffer some wind, cloud and even a little rain, 

Chloe also arrived with plans for activities - so one one day she and Bob rode to Akti Krios (the furthest beach in the Elefonisis direction) and on another they walked the "Anidri Triangle" - up the road to the schoolhouse kafenion, down the gorge with its difficult boulders and drops, bathing at the beach and back along the coastal path. Up at the kafenion they met Stephanie (married last year - see blog) who invited us all to her daughter's birthday party later in the week:- a lovely occasion in the evening of a very windy day, and the precursor of a very late night for Chloe, who went out clubbing with Anastasia!

On our final Friday we took a taxi up to th eother (higher) mountain village of note. Earlier trips to Azogires have been described here before. This time we had with us Chloe - an Azogires virgin, and Sean - the complete opposte:- here on holiday, but an Azogires resident in 1976! With his assistence we explored a bit further - including a visit to St Theodor's chapel, where - in an area now designated for non-Orthodox burials - we saw the tomb of Andy - a "character" much loved over the years, whom we had met for the first time the month before his death. This led to Sean asking Lucky at the Alpha if he still had a copy of the "Paleochora Chronic". (One edition, hand-written 1976), and we spent a long time laughing at that. A great way to spend a wet (yes, wet!) day.

Chloe left on Sunday evening, having grabbed some beach time in windy conditions. We put her on the 6.15 bus with a rather tight schedule for getting to the airport before Easyjet check-in closed. She managed that alright, but there was a near 5 hour delay in departure and she arrived at Gatwick at 4.23 am. We were in the doghouse again for putting her on a cheapskate airline, but she enjoyed her stay and was refreshed ready for final year at Brighton. We hunkered down to do pre-autumn migration cleaning!

Foodie Corner

Last week Popi the Matriarch called us over to a table where cylindrical orange things were packed on a plate. Ruth could only think they were anthus - stuffed courgette flowers - which are delicious. No - Popi said they had been collected that day by Manolis (the grandfather - not the boy) waving vaguely to the wasteland. She handed us half a dozen in a kitchen towel, and we were none the wiser, but put them in the fridge!

Later in the supermarket we saw them on sale as frangosyka (French figs), and realised they were the fruit of the prickly pear cactus, which had been (thankfully!) de-prickled and peeled. There followed an internet research session to see what on earth to do with them. They were very pleasant on the breakfast muesli with yoghurt - tasting rather like kiwi fruit. So food for free - but pretty heavy on the labour!

Since Chloe arrived we have been eating out more as she has aa passion for Greek (veggie-again) food. She had three nights on ANEK ferries - coming down from Venice, and loved their cafeteria food! The weather has continued to be autumnal. On Sunday it was too windy for the beach so we went for a drive along the coast to Akti Krios, then came back and spent a long lunchtime in Methexis. Ruth had a scrumptious dish of stewed octopus and horta (mountain greens). Afterwards Chloe went across the road to their little beach and slept for ages in one of the hammocks. Let's hear it also for the schoolhouse kafenion in Anidri, where we went this week by taxi with Olga and Stephen! A stunning menu, including Drunken Rabbit, which was delicious! Whilst there we  managed a quick word with the kitchen folk:- Barry (ex-Calypso) and Mima (ex-cantina) - no wonder the food was so good!

Times they are a-changing

Yesterday Chloe arrived from Croatia (via Venice) - but more of that later! That means that it is definitely September! Not that there could be much doubt;- we have September weather, which started on 31st August with some cloud. Now we are getting regular cloud, chillier evenings and some mugginess, but less troublesome wind. The sea is gorgeous, but with the odd rock exposures caused by the big August wind and some big wave activity. So - how was the high summer weather?

Well the graphs say it all in terms of numbers of days over the last two years - entirely subjective of course!

On 1st September a sub-set of the Yiayia-Gaga club had an excursion. Six of us caught the noon bus up to Kandanos to join the French division for a long lunch al fresco on their beautiful terrace overlooking the mountains. It was the first time on a Cretan bus for half the group, and they found it a pleasant experience. Coming back we were over-cautious and waited a long time in the shade of one of the memorials to the village destruction. When eventually the bus did come (on time in fact!) we almost missed it because no-one got off, and we needed to cross the road. We all paid, of course, but no sign of tickets, as there was no way the inspector would get on at that stage of the journey. That was 12 euros odd into a private pocket, and no shame! There is much talk amongst the ex-pats and tourists as to just what the typical Greek (Cretan) attitude to honesty is - in the light of the stringent financial measures of the moment and foreseeable future. We think it is along the lines of "Why should I not do what everybody else does?" - A difficult one to crack - and that brings us to the Smoking Ban!

From September 1st they tried again at joining the rest of Europe over smoking. This must be about the fourth attempt. On the first occasion the Health Minister was forced to resign for having the audacity to threaten personal freedom! Most recently they tried the "Spanish model" having been warned beforehand that this was rubbish! This was presumably why they tried it. This time there is a complete ban on smoking in all public internal space, with savage fines for both smoker and owner, but the police will not be enforcing it, there has been very little publicity and the hotline for snitching insists on full names for callers. It has also led to brand new peripteros, because of advertising restrictions.

With baited (clean) breath we went that evening to Cosmogonia. The first thing we saw? A handful of smokers inside fully serviced with ashtrays! Ah Greece!

The music however was most excellent! Mike and 13-year old Sophia played a very varied selection for a good four hours.

We were back at Cosmogonia on Monday for a belated 60th birthday party. Dick had been on Gavdos for the occasion itself. We had a hilarious time, not least because of gifts sent from UK - the hat and the booze-goggles, and ended up getting gyros pitta from the boys next door and consuming them alongside the bottomless wine supply. Ruth was in recovery mode from a back-ache brought on by two days of trying to fix the laptop which had picked up malware that gives false infection messages, false blue-screens and horrible loud beeps. This was a  hair-tearing experience, which was only solved with a "system restore" and scan with AdAware. Be warned! The sainted Jeffri - on sabbatical in Gravesend- acted as consultant:- for which many thanks!

It must be September also because the twilight Tae Kwan Do are on the beach, and down at Zygos the entire retired population of Norway is trying to get an ouzo!

Any (Venetian) Port in a(n Etesian) Storm

The window for a quick duck- and wine-related dash to Chania came down to Friday/Saturday 20th to 21st August, with the aim of being back for the Azogires tavli tournament and a birthday dinner on the Sunday.
We drove up in very hot weather, and the traditional 3-supermarket run was a sweaty affair! We stayed again at a small hotel on the Nea Chora :- not such a good room this time, and with a horrible view over to a flat roof where a German Shepherd dog was imprisoned with little shade and barked a great deal at free dogs below. We had a pleasant afternoon on the beach, and then went to Shanghai Lily's for the long-coveted duck! Next day the wind came up. We took a bus into the Old Town and went for a stroll around places we knew like the Market, and that we didn't. The beach now was OK but the sea very rough. We were uninspired for dinner and ended up with souvlaki. We had been monitoring the weather situation, and were not surprised when we got a SMS from Jeffri to say he wasn't going to do the Azogires expedition because of the wind, so we cancelled the dinner date and booked in for another night. In Chania there was no real wind problem, but there was a lot of cloud and the sea was very rough indeed. At the harbour there were no operational boat trips, and the waves were almost reaching restaurant tables. We had an interesting long lunch in one of the least aggressively marketed  places, and then walked back along the coast. Suddenly - a vision - the "French team" - the Kandonites - coming in the other direction! Later we had the most expensive bottles of Amstel in Crete. Grrr!

Monday morning saw clouds, rough seas and high humidity. We used the coast road, and in Maleme it rained! We stopped at the British Food Shop - which is a most depressing place (how could anyone crave most of these things?), and then went to the German War Cemetry, which we have been driving past for 22 years. It is high on a hill with a stunning view over the site of the battle of Crete in 1941. It was a moving experience - about 4,500 soldiers are buried there, and there is a very informative and peace-orientated exhibition. Halfway through our visit a large multi-national party arrived - many of whom we thought were showing insufficient interest and respect. When we left we saw that they had been brought up on two wally-trolleys, now branded as Fun Trains! Odd!
Going from North to South coast we were aware of clearing cloud and strengthening winds, and when we reache Paleo the talk was off the destruction on the Sunday. Women had been thrown from bicycles, palm trees had been uprooted and poles and road signs lay horizontal. Apparently there had been odd gusts at Beaufort 10. Our balcony and back patio were ankle-deep in foliage, plant debris and plastic. We made it down to the beach that day and saw drastic re-formation of the sand profile. The wind eased during the week. We feel we were quite clever and lucky to have been away during the devastation.
Click here for Chania habour webcam

A Reasonable Assumption

Early August in Paleochora became increasingly hot and humid, but with lowish tourism, although yet more friends arrived and the newly opened cantina saw regular long stays!
We had planned to get away for the dreaded 15th August, when the Assumption holiday can cause chaotic Greek traffic, beach noise and restaurant rudeness, but such was the lethargy following hot nights that we didn't organise anything. There was a beach party at the Jetee on the Saturday night, during which humidity reached 82% at 2am!

So we stayed in town,and survived, not least because on the Sunday - late afternoon - there was a sudden gust of wind and we realised that the Etesian (Meltemi) had arrived - a little late, but meaning business! It cleared the beach. As we also had to deal with three UK property-related crises (including getting Tesco to deliver a new washing machine) it may have been just as well! We then stayed around for a few days in order to be guests at Vicky's much-belated 60th birthday party with cake at the cantina, and hatched plans for a few days in Chania.

".. then two come along at the same time!"

Tuesday 10th was a major arrival day for Brits (and Irish!) that we know, so long hours have been spent at both the Jetee and the cantina catching up on news.
In particular Jo and Arvid are back after missing last year, and they approve of the new cantina. Yesterday they brought down the guitar, flute and harmonicas - alond with various gismos. It was as if the two years without the cantina had never happened! After some jamming with Professor Johnny - along came another British flautist. What are the odds on that?

So that was an unplanned twilight bottle of retsina!

Plain Sailing?

On Monday we celebrated our Silver Wedding Anniversary (and 27 years together). We had  a bucks fizz breakfast and a beautiful day on the beach, then we took sticky Greek cakes round to our neighbours and had dinner a deux at the Small Garden. Our main little party, however, was on Wednesday and involved dinner for 13 at the Corali :- this was about 60% of the YiaYiaGaGa Club (with Eva already departed and Charlie & Gaby not yet arrived), the French contingent and Eoin's brother & sister-in-law!

We had ordered a cake from the bakers, with instructions on the decoration. Bob picked it up before the "do" and reported that there was "something missing"! Breath was baited until presentation time. As expected we had sand- and sea-coloured stuff. some palm trees and parasols, and there -sitting on a pile of cream was a single male figure in white Speedos (looking like Barbie's Ken!). A strange celebration of "togetherness"! Great fun though, lovely gifts aand cards, and a long session afterwards at the former-Coconuts.

Since then - two developments - we have a Southampton-registered luxury yacht moored at the Skala port with red ensign flying - Shalimar II. We have tried to find out more about the owner - but suspect it is chartered by US contractors from the Souda NATO base, who were throwing money and voices around at Atoli's live music gig last night. Also our first two-storey bar has just opened (called SunSea or similar!) in an old house between Votsalo and Maria's. It is aimed at young people (!!) and thus of little interest to us. Yesterday we sat next door during an unbeachable windy afternoon and it was full of Chania folk down for the evening's (unremarkable) beach party.