With a few days spare before flying from Mumbai we pondered visiting other coastal places or spending time in Mumbai itself; but decided we were not in the mood for serious Indian city, and wanted to get more of the old Portuguese colonial flavour, so booked a taxi to the state capital, and took advice on a place to stay for two nights. Ellie recommended the Afonso Guest House, which is very well situated for wandering round. It took about 1hr 40 mins in the taxi on a Sunday afternoon, and you pass over one of the two huge rivers that define Panaji's geography.
The hotel is the heart of the Fontainhas area, which has numerous colonial-style buildings in little streets, and pretty Catholic chapels. Our room was on the ground floor of the old town house, and was comfortable enough with a good bathroom, although hot water is obtained by ringing a bell! There is a fair amount of domestic and street noise, as one might expect! In the morning there is breakfast with fresh Goan white rolls on the roof:- very altmospheric!. For the price one could go to a bigger hotel, and the owner (now widowed) runs a tight ship - especially in refusing unsecured bookings; but we would stay there again!
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| Bob suffered deja vu! |
Some of the buildings suggested in the guide as points of interest were being renovated, so yet more verge jumping and mad road crossing! A distinctly weird statue in a prominent position celebrates Abbe Faria - one of Goa's sons, and allegedly the father of hypnotism! This remains in place, whilst that of Vasco de Gama, formerly atop a column in the municipal gardens, has been removed since independence!
In the river there are several large steamers moored and used as casinos, and there is a popular evening river boat trip.
Wandering around is obviously a hot and sense-battering experience, so we sat for a long time in a bar beside the river near the ferry, which plies continuously back and forth
As well as the wide river Mandovi there is a narrow creek, and we ate on both nights in restaurants with balconies overlooking it. Firstly we went to a very modern and European-friendly place on a corner by the bridge. As we ate we saw smoke rising from a spot halfway across and were intrigued:- road accident, roasting chestnuts?? It was in fact part of a shrine set up in the balustrade, with both Christian and Hindu iconry. A very Goan phenomenon!
On the second occasion we were initially the only customers, and they lit up the tandoor specially for us
. It was an excellent meal including the Goan dish Chicken Xiacuti - based on coconut milk. Later a group came in speaking Spanish, and we got a bilingual conversation under way. It turned out that the two girls were flying like us the next day to Heathrow with BA.
. It was an excellent meal including the Goan dish Chicken Xiacuti - based on coconut milk. Later a group came in speaking Spanish, and we got a bilingual conversation under way. It turned out that the two girls were flying like us the next day to Heathrow with BA.So a good few Honeybees were consumed before we retired early for the monster return journey - see next post!
So - Goa - the verdict: Plus points:
- Exquisite beach and sea
- Warm weather
- Mellow fellow tourists (mostly)
- Cheap everything
- Varied cuisine
- Tolerance towards alchohol etc
- Friendly workers
and the other side:- not much, but includes
- Price of getting there, visas, jabs and insurance
- Need for eternal hygiene vigilance
- Insensitive tourists brought in on packages (especially from Russia)
- Absence of decent wine
- Beach sellers & beggars various
We will be back!