"All I want for Christmas is a New Right Knee!"

.. and here it is:

(specifically a Genesis 2, by Smith and Nephew)!

It goes without saying that this is an odd festive season for Greyrocks!  Not only is there the hospitalisation in the run-up and Ruth's reduced mobility, but it is also the first true "empty nest" one as Chloë has always been with us for either Christmas or New Year, but this year she has her first in Bristol with Jack, and won't be over until they both come in mid-January. Low key, then, is the order of the day!

During the first week of December there were two pre-op trips to Puerto del Rosario, then it was the dreaded Puento - the 6th to 8th holiday when Corralejo sees an influx of Spanish tourists! Nonetheless, we went to the spa for what we anticipated would be the last time for a while. It was more crowded than previously, but still a delight, and we also made a serious lunch trip to their beach restaurant in rather inclement weather. "An arm and a leg" was indeed shelled out there to mark an almost recovered arm, and imminent relief for the leg!

Surgery took place on the afternoon of 10th, with an epidural administered  by the Italian anaesthetist, and took about two and a half hours. What can be said about a second major orthopaedic operation in four months? Not much of worth, except that both surgeons were wonderful, and the pain afterwards ghastly! The in-patient care, of course, was comfortable and attentive this time round. The clinic is located in central Puerto, close to the main church and public square, so there was a lot of raucous noise on three of the four nights. The TV was standard Spanish terrestrial but we found the button for getting English dialogue and watched end-to-end NCIS and Star Wars feature films - regularly punctuated by ads: ninety percent of which were for expensive fragrances! What is this obsession with perfume?  We had paid for Bob to stay there too and he took himself off into town for walks, internet and meals, and - indeed - to book three nights in a hotel. This seemed a better option than going home whilst Ruth was still struggling to walk, and it meant we could also have the first four sessions physiotherapy close by. There were four of these  - which were quite gentle in the circumstances, administered by a Venezuelan physiotherapist in a cavern of a place where all manner of clients - including several young boys - were also getting the treatment. Great for Ruth's Spanish!

Arthritis; rising above it!

During the stay at the hotel in Puerto del Rosario Ruth was able to make short walks with one crutch so that the Greyrocks could once more enjoy the sun and some better - if still simple - food. It also became clear that the front seat of an ordinary taxi was adequate for getting about so that when we returned home a week after the operation that is what we used, and Ruth was able to get up the stairs surprisingly easily. A hired wheelchair was delivered later in the day.

The run-up to the festive season was then dominated by taxi-rides to the clinic on the other side of town where Ruth was entitled to the remainder of the thirty physiotherapy sessions, some outings by wheelchair or taxi and shopping done by Bob. The physio. sessions have a bizarre nature with aspects of social club. The regulars include stroke victims like the retired orthopaedic surgeon ("heal thyself?"), highly motivated surfers and sports-people and bands of elderly bussed in from the campo and speaking Majorero. We even had a birthday cake! The therapy is working and having seen the sainted surgeon Ruth is considered to be making remarkable progress. Next stop the exercise cycle and then the real thing. We can also - after the holiday congestion - get back to the spa!

The festive meal was a goose breast on Christmas Eve night followed by profiteroles from the French patisserie. A good job we liked it as yesterday we heard that the pheasant ordered for New Years Day had not arrived, so it will be a repeat! Frustrating and the washing machine broke down irreparably at the same time as we got the news! Thank you, 2015! It has been largely grim for Greyrocks along with the rest of humanity! The good bits are the new knee and getting Chloë settled in Bristol.

A HAPPY (BETTER) 2016 TO YOU!

In Search of the "Feel Good" Factor

November progressed well until the final week with great weather, a day visit from Lanzarote by Goa (and Derbyshire) friends John and Tracey, plenty of sea swimming and some investigation of the music scene around town. We were engaged in that at Rock Cafe when there were newsflashes about the Paris shootings, plunging us into despair! And then, -in a repeat of last (and several other) years - it was the birthday break and time for winter to start!

The spa at Geranios Suites 4*

 Gran Canaria was out because of awaited hospital appointments, so it was dear old Caleta de Fuste by bus again for Greyrocks. It is easy to be snobbish about the resort, which is predominantly British package in clientèle; but we have our two favoured haunts (a tapas bar and a British-run restaurant) to pull us in, and there are good hotel deals to be had, We booked three nights at the Geranios Suites, and were very comfortable there:- apart from the weather! There was a lot of sheltering from the cold wind and threatened rain; but the meal at "15" was almost up to standard and a new discovery:- "555" - was so good we dined there twice. (There is an outbreak, not fully explicable, in numbers as eatery names in Caleta:- bizarre!)

On the last full day Greyrocks decided the sea and outdoor pool were just too uninviting and bit the bullet by taking up a special offer for the hotel spa. It was the first such experience on the island, and now we are hooked! Such was the bliss of warm water, various bubbling and spraying bits, peace and space for swimming and exercises that we were back again next morning before checking out! On our way to the bus station in Puerto del Rosario we visited the public  hospital to try and resurrect Bob's cardiology project. We were sent from pillar to post but emerged with an appointment with a nurse who is the "outward and visible sign" of the cardiologist for the next day. We went for tapas by the ferry port and ultimately for an evening appointment at the private clinic and were told the date for Ruth's knee replacement: December 10th. Since then we have had a number of related appointments, financial jiggery-pokery, and aspects of planning to work towards that day; and Bob has been settled into an anti-coagulant regime which we hope will be proven to be over-cautious and can be suspended. The sense of getting old and there being no let-up in health matters is overwhelming!

The spa at the Bahia Real 5*

Bulletins will be issued during Ruth's hospitalisation of 3-5 days!

The Coco Beach Bar and Restaurant

Corralejo's weather had been no better, and some half-hearted attempts to bathe in the sea failed, so - both delighted by the spa experience and needing the therapy before the op. - Greyrocks went down to 5* Bahia Real Hotel at the other end of town to see what deals could be secured. The centre is bigger than the one in Caleta, and the entry price entitles you to stay all day and visit the hotel's restaurants for lunch (arm and a leg, of course!)  We loved it so much and got so much vital exercise there for our varied ailments that we signed up for season tickets, and have been practising phrases such as "We deserve it!", "You can't put a price on Health", "We don't have any other expensive tastes" and  "There are no pockets in shrouds". Yesterday we visited for the day not knowing when or how we would do so again given the imminence of the surgery.


Watch this space for (suitably truncated) news of Ruth's knee thing and recovery!

A Shoal Lot Better!

New adornments at the Marina

Montana Roja

Things chez Greyrocks have been steadily improving through the month that we have been back home in Corralejo. When we were picked up by Dave we were told that the summer had been very hot, but there had recently been a lot of rain. As we drove past Montana Roja there was a torrent of rain pouring down and out into the sea making the largest area of discoloured water ever seen here by us and Dave. This was a portent!



Inauguration in June of renovated "Molino"

There was nothing untoward in the apartment or the complex, and Greyrocks was soon settled in. The legacy of recent storms was, however, very evident in puddles and wet furniture. Next day we spent the day on a series of household and health tasks, including a lengthy wait at the Post Office, which has moved back to its previous location and now faces one of the many improvements in town.  In this case it is the reopening of a tasteful pedestrian square surrounding a very old renovated windmill- bringing to three the number of mills in town. Read on for more on environmental developments 

October 23rd!

The rain was apparently just around the corner, but it held off for the day - only catching us at Avenidas in the evening;(leading to free drinks whilst a taxi was called for us);but this was the start of three days of dramatic thunderstorms:- good for hunkering down and getting jobs done, but not great for tourists ! Since that spell, however, and for November as a whole it has been unusually pleasant, with only three poor days.

 

 

Muelle Chico (Town Beach)

 

 

 Greyrocks has been monitoring the weather particularly closely since embarking on a new regime of swimming for health! It started with an attempt to enter our own pool on the first decent day, and motivated by the fact that the wrist meant no cycling for Ruth. Unfortunately it also meant gripping the rail of the steps was also impossible, so that was another worthy venture abandoned! Next day we tried the town beach so that the sea could be entered by walking, and we have been going there (or occasionally at Waikiki beach) on almost every day since. Not bad for November, eh? One of the few impossible days was October 28th when - following on from the Full Moon, there was the highest tide in living memory, which completely covered the town beach bringing down intricate sand sculptures and washed over our local prom. The swims are not exactly extensive or elegant, but have helped the wrist flexibility and probably not harmed the knees, although it often doesn't feel that way.

 

On the subject of inundations there is no let-up in the Italian invasion. It has become the third language in town, a dozen more coffee shops have opened along with a few trendy clothes shops and - of course - some restaurants! Prices for renting homes long-term have escalated with competition for good places, and stereotypical behaviour is evident everywhere. Nor has there been any reduction in the number of surfers and facilities for them. As previously written they are considered by Greyrocks to be a Good Thing for the community and its economy, but the combination of several Italian surfers on skateboards isn't!

 

 

 

Artist's impression of the new Brisamar

The "powers that be" would far rather court the five-star market, and two prominent hotels are being constructed. One was well underway when we left in the Spring, taking up most of the Hoplaco Gardens site on the Main Street. The other came as a great surprise! The Barceló group have knocked down - during November - the rather dated Brisamar buildings (also on Main Street) removing a parade of shops and the private clinic along with a whole tourist complex. Watch this space! Very recently, however, the policy of only allowing 5star development has been ruled illegal at national level, so maybe a more interesting future is around the corner.

The town rubbish and cleaning lorries now announce that this is a "Municipio Touristico y Selecto", and in our absence and finalising in our first few weeks there has been some serious tarting up of the town centre:- not just the mill and fish, but some very welcome (by Greyrocks but not motorists!) pedestrianisation. It started before we left in April with remodelling of the street behind the Atlantico Centre and passing La Taberna and Boogaloos to the police station. This is now completed with trendy street furniture and  large palms, giving scope for bars and restaurants to spill out onto the wide pavement. Boogaloos in particular has undergone a major expansion in this respect and is an attractive proposition for live music, although whether this can survive the winter evening chill remains to be seen.

The main street is not fully pedestrianised but from the (sadly removed) Dove Statue down to the (soon to be removed) Shell Station and up two blocks of Lepanto there is little traffic now and wider pavements with a real sense of cafe life.

And so to the inevitable changes in Greyrocks´ restaurant selection. Some closures of places we have used are our local: the Cafe Lounge (rumoured to be taken over by one the most highly rated restaurants in town, but nothing is yet happening there), the second Brazilian Rodizio (on Lepanto), the Lazy Lounge near the harbour, Belen near WaiKiki beach (replaced in the last two weeks by a large, flash restaurant and lounge bar - Toro Beach), H20 (still there but tranferred to unremarkable Italian ownership), Scarpetta which relocated to the mall near 7 Pints, LÁtelier des Saveurs on the cobble street is now an Italian bar specialising in craft beers, Casa Richard next door to Blue Rock (currently still empty but rumoured to be going Italian), Ali´s Tavern next door to that (has changed hands and name twice over the summer and is now Italian) and - saddest of all - Caracoles! Bob bumped into Carlos and Sylvia on a Tuesday and head it had closed on the previous Friday in response to Carlos´ health problems. It had been on Greyrocks´ list of "must do" and we had missed it after all the years of enjoying their lovely "posh tapas". No prizes for guessing the nationality of the new owners!

So we have some new places to try, and indeed have already experimented once with the up-market Belgian-run Tuxedo at the top of town, being (soon) Greyrocks´ one new Trip Advisor entry for Corralejo.

Otherwise as November progressed there were some cold evenings and nights, a few miserable cloudy or wet days, more wrist recovery breakthroughs, some frustrations with the Health Service and a short birthday break. More narrative on these to follow!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Headin' Down the Highway

Greyrocks set off on 1st October on a mission! The schedule had been planned with military  precision. First we shared a taxi up to Chania airport as  Ruth  would struggle with luggage on the bus and the timing was unhelpful. We flew into Gatwick on a full Easyjet flight and took a train to Balham where we were to stay in the Travelodge which is very convenient for everything and was nearing completion when we left the country eight years ago.

 

Feeling the need for a good old British Indian and it being Curry Night at Wetherspoons, we visited The Moon under Water and partook of their offering and some longed-for real ale. The pub has not improved at all with the years, but it was a rich re-entry into British culture! Next day we walked down to the old house and met up with our helpers to get a lot of stuff out of the loft for transporting to Chloë 's new house in Bristol. She was most interested in the boxes of vinyl albums and the hi-fi system, but we also took kitchenware, bedlinen and small items of furniture. Fortunately the weather was being kind so as we found things we stacked them outside the house and kept an eye on then until we had collected the hired van from Putney. There were some hitches with this - the most important of which was that we had to accept a longer and taller model than we had booked, with consequent increased road fear! The next morning Bob was back outside the old house doing a six stage manoeuvre to get the van out of its parking spot. We then set off map-less but confident at 6.20 am to get to the A4 by a hump-less route. Something went wrong in Fulham and we found ourselves heading back over the Thames at Putney. It was still dark! Several other navigational errors happened culminating in us being at the south end of Hammersmith Bridge facing width restrictors. We diverted down a residential road to effect a turnabout and found an Ocado delivery van flashing its lights. Another challenging manoeuvre to get us out of that! Then it was plain sailing down to Easton, Bristol, where CandJ had attempted to save a spot outside for unloading, but it wasn't going work, so Bob took the van round to the back gate and everyone including lodger set to in unloading everything from teddy bear, through guitar to massive floor speakers.

 

Inevitably there were errors:- we had inadvertently brought part of a hated set of crockery, most of the baking tins had rusted, heirlooms we wanted to leave behind had travelled, and a music centre had arrived without its mains lead, but there was much excitement, and it felt like a watershed moment in family life. Bob went with Jack to take the van to the nearby depot, and later J's mum came to help and also drove us to the field near the airport (in some shocking Saturday afternoon traffic) where we found Yvette waiting for us and ready to start first-time. Definitely a good service!

 

We drove back to the hotel at Cribbs Causeway, sorted out the car and collapsed so that all plans for exotic dinners were abandoned in favour of standard English grub next door

 

On Sunday morning we raided Morrisons for the winter's specialist goods, and then took  a bus to Horfield to meet the niece, her partner (our project manager chez Chloë) and kids, plus CandJ for lunch at their chosen pub with play space. It was a fine, long meal with plenty of common interests, and the sun shone so the kids could be let loose outside. Chloë reported that after we left her house the household reconnected the turntable etc and had tried it out on an old Manfred Mann album. She is cherishing her heritage!

 

By next morning the weather had broken, and Greyrocks was due to drive to Hampshire to take Ruth's father out for lunch. It was a straightforward route, but conditions were awful - especially on the A34. This wasn't helped by a deteriorating windscreen wiper! It didn't stop raining all day, but we had a good meal in a local pub, and also later met Ruth's sister and brother-in-law, and then stayed overnight locally before setting off for France. 

 

But, first, we had to get to Dover, and it was still pouring, so we used the motorway-based route and resisted through torrents. Fortunately it had stopped by Dover, we were allowed onto an earlier ferry and had our easiest crossing ever! During the drive down to Rouen we had spells of rain again, but not so heavy. Once near the city Greyrocks began another run of navigation problems finding a hotel. It happens repeatedly despite printed maps. In this case the issue was references to an Intermarche supermarket and we were circumnavigating (during the rush hour) the wrong one!

 

This was an unremarkable overnight stop in a standard unmodernised Premiere Classe. We thought we would be able to walk to neighbouring Campanile as we often do in other places, but it was too far so drove round the area and found a very good Chinese buffet:- not our expected first French meal for more than five months, but some nice dishes!

 

The route to Tours via Le Mans is now familiar - including the easterly wide sweep round Rouen that we now prefer, and it is largely toll-free and quiet so this was an easy day with good weather and we could walk to the Campanile for dinner, and find a place that would fit new wipers next morning.

 

Greyrocks is also familiar with the route down past Poitiers to the land of our old friend George. Since selling his business and following a failed house purchase he has moved into a rented property in the nearby village of S Germain de Confolens. We had suffered some difficulties in finding accommodation nearby for the two nights, but had then settled on chambre d'hote very close:-La Grange Terrou. Karen the owner had said she knew G's house and it was at the end of the road, so we hadn't done enough locational research - knowing that there is not much in the village, but we failed again, hindered by a closed bridge and eventually found ourselves close to where we had stayed last spring. Suddenly into view, speeding on his racing bike, came one of the owners of that property, who remembered us and knew both places were sought. Sorted!

 

First we located the chambre d'hote, and it was magnificent, although rather remote! We were the only guests and had a beautiful room. The communal lounge and dining room are also classically and opulently furnished. We were very happy with the choice. We then found George's place, which is indeed at the end of the road! This is an old watermill, with a bizarre interior including bare rock. We stayed for an early meal and arranged a lunch out for the next day. We were told that a number of restaurants we have visited over the years have closed, so we were taken to the small village of Mouterre-sur-Blourde. Greyrocks' Trip Advisor review says it all! In the evening we retuned to base and were plied with sloe gin during a fireside conversation with Karen and Robert. This covered a great deal of ground and rounded off a very pleasant (and sunny) couple of days. The only downside was what happened to Yvette reversing out of George's very steep driveway. The smell of burning clutch was with us for many days!

 

The next stage had been planned to be to Rodez. No real navigational problems, but a planning one:- Ruth had miscalculated the distance and the second part of the journey was unexpectedly long and tedious! We didn't get to see much of the town, but had a relaxing night both staying and eating at the Campanile. We are still smarting at the restaurant bill, however, as an expected discount didn't happen, so no more Campanile for Greyrocks unless staying at cheapo P Classe!

 

Sunday morning is a good time for serious journeys in France, so even though we started on the gruelling N88, we were soon crossing the Millau viaduct but without the views as it was misty. We made it to Lattes in time to visit the small Carrefour beside the market place, and wander through the huge range of stalls of the Sunday market. Then could check in to the mobile home and partially unpack. The weather was beautiful, so we spent a few hours at Port Ariane.

 

 

The nine day stay at our favourite mobile home site was planned - in part - to compensate for the truncated one in April when Ruth's Mum died. We knew the weather was likely to be dodgy, and it was! Several days and nights saw dramatic rain :- not as bad as the inondation of a previous time. Nonetheless Bob did a few bike rides, and we had a trip to the seaside at Palavas. We took a tram into Montpellier one evening - and it wasn't raining! We wandered round a little at the Oeuf then had dinner at one of the brasseries near Comedie then came home, but as we still had valid tram tickets did a morning visit the next day in very pleasant sunshine. On a wet Saturday it was Montpellier again by tram to go to the Diagonal cinema after a lunch at L'Assiette Au Bouef  which qualifies for  cheap tickets (It's a good meal, too!) We saw the new Woody Allen film "Irrational Man" in English. Pretty good! This video catches the flavour of Central Montpellier.

Looking back this doesn't seem much activity for more than a week, but with Ruth's mobility and tactile problems plus the rain the scope was limited, but we did really relax and we had to deal midway with a techy crisis after the laptop would not connect to the internet (whilst the Hudl would). After hours spent on fruitless self-help we looked up a suitable repair place, took it in and left it for two days, but it came back in better shape than before and at an acceptable cost. Should you ever need IT repairs in Herault Greyrocks recommends!

Towards the end the weather was grim once again and on Sunday when we ventured out we were reminded of the "charming and egalitarian" French practice of closing everything by lunchtime or not opening at all. Even the two restaurants at the hypermarket, which should have been open, weren't and we had to resort to Buffalo Grill for our Sunday dinner!

During Monday there was a major re-packing and washing of Yvette and a good last meal. Next day (20th) we drove straight to the parking place at Girona airport in good conditions, and got an earlier train than planned to Barca airport, where we saw a bus that looked as if it had done the same journey in rather less time! This didn't use to be possible:- a bit of research needed for next year! Bob was reluctantly out of shorts and sandals at this point and this was wise given the chill during the wait for the hotel shuttle, but we had a quiet evening, great value meal, good breakfast and took the shuttle back next morning for the Vueling flight. There was a huge and badly managed bag-drop queue, the plane was full and included badly behaved French and the ubiquitous Italians, and we suffered an hour of serious turbulence, but we are home now and all is well!
 

 

Club Nights

Birthday Girl N|o1 with remains of fish at The Wave

Most of the rest of the Club

 Here, then, is the detail on the "social whirl" that was September in old Paleo.

 

It began in earnest with the arrival of Charlie and Gabi, who had been unfaithfully going to Spain for quite a few summers, but were lured back to mark forty years since they had met in Paleo. This meant the YiaYia Gaga Club was just about quorate, and a new member was incorporated in the form of Tony who was also a 75-er with plenty of memories.

 

The regular meeting place for late night drinks has moved since the club first met. Yanni's Place has fallen from almost everyone's favour for a host of reasons it would be foolhardy to list, and we have been welcomed warmly at Cosmogonia.

 

....and the continuation at Cosmogonia

In the space of some two weeks there were three occasions for a club party. First, we celebrated Julia's birthday - one year short of a landmark! We met at The Wave, where Eva had organised fizz on arrival and Chris and Jann (the duo of Shades of Gray fame) had been secretly engaged to serenade us. By the end of a very long evening they had also become de facto members and joined us for remaining club nights. Not many members of the public braved the taverna for eating purposes, but many stayed nearby to listen to such gems as "Ernie the Milkman" and "Get your kicks on the A146"!

 

A few days later there was a re-run for Gabi's significant birthday. Sam and Catherine had returned to UK as they still have to work (deep sigh!), but two guests joined us: Mike and Jane who are friends of Julia and Eoin and on their first visit.

 

 

Birthday Girl No2  before the skipping and jiving 

This time there was party stationery courtesy of Jann and both Tony and Charlie did vocal and guitar numbers. Gabi made a mockery of her actual age by skipping with her new rope and jiving to Stones numbers with Alain. Chris and Jann amused for hours - including special versions of classics - such as "Ride around, Gabi" referencing the bikes used to get daily to Anidri.

,,,and the continuation (Guess where!)

Finally, and just before a major wave of departures, Pascale celebrated her birthday a little early to catch us all. This social event involved travel up to Kandanos. We hired a minibus for the 20 minute journey, and there was - of course - community singing starting with "Wheels on the Bus"! We also had a lot of silliness involving party poppers and inflation of balloons.

Temperatures up there are several degrees lower than in Paleo and the pics show more clothing than usual! Pascale had cooked a magnificent meal and there was even some French wine!

In addition to sax and guitar numbers we were treated to Alain on keyboards with renditions of a range of chansons.

(Early) Birthday Girl |No 3 who also cooked her own feast!

,, and the extra entertainment!

 

 

 And after that run of parties things went a bit quiet, although Greyrocks did their own leaving meal at Kapetan Dimitri's, but that belongs with other "end of summer" reportage in the next blog, as does our remote participation in the meeting of the Shropshire sub-branch of the YiaYia Gaga Club for Sam's significant birthday in mid-October!

In spite of young Catherine the mean age of the club must be over 60, and we ought to know better!

As it says on a T-shirt thoughtfully supplied by Chloë :

 

"Adventure before Dementia!"

 

"I must go down to the sea again"

On Thursday Ruth bathed in the sea for the first time since July! This provides the link between several strands in this account of the month of September.

Art Week captures Ruth's troubles!

Central to Greyrocks' month has been the slow recovery of Ruth's wrist. On Friday 18th we made what we deeply hope is our last ever visit to the Orthopaedic Outpatients at Chania Hospital for removal of the metal bits. The gory details be available soon in a separate document ("Let me tell you about my operation!"). Two days later the bandage could come off and Ruth was able and indeed encouraged to go into the sea. Unfortunately the weather gods had different ideas, and to date that occasion has been the only one.

 

 

Clock those night-time temperatures!

Peculiar weather has been the talking point all month. We started with a heat wave, much to the consternation of the typical older tourists who come in September to avoid exactly that! Down on the beach there was occasional sunbed rage and a panic to plant more. On the afternoon of the 6th Yiannis Sunbeds came over to Greyrocks' tree to report that his digital thermometer was registering 42.5 degrees Celsius. A week or so later the problem was several consecutive unbeachable days with winds of Beaufort 5 to 6. When Ruth was finally up for at least a gentle paddle the wind and waves made it ill-advised and then overnight the rain started. Monday to Wednesday saw repeated dramatic thunderstorms causing havoc, and only the one day mentioned has been viable. In particular Saturday evening started gloomy. Greyrocks decided to cheer themselves up with prime steaks at Cape Crocodile. We were early and Giorgos suggested a particular table somewhat protected by a palm-leaf umbrella. The place filled up - including a huge Scandie party - and then the heavens opened! The shelter available was completely inadequate and all the punters could do was eat fast and laugh! Next day the village shared stories of disastrous restaurant incidents, and dry seating was at a premium.



Casualties of the storm

.. and some beneficiaries - place holder!

 

 At least the weather was good for the ten day stay of Chloë and Jack! They stayed at Zygos and with it being Jack's first visit and him not yet being a natural beach bum they took trips! They booked to go to Elafonissi by boat, but that was cancelled as often happens apparently for reasons it would be libellous to state here! Next day they got there and back - more cheaply - by bus and said they wouldn't bother to go again! They did an overnight stay in Loutro by boat and loved it.

 

They also chose to go to Chania on the early bus rather than with us, so that they could look round the city, and they also rated that highly and will stay there again for a few days some time, We were all there for an overnight as their accommodation wasn't available for the night before the return flight, so we stayed and ate on the Nea Chora. Greyrocks stayed on to incorporate the dreaded hospital visit. A leaving present for Ruth was a fancy walking stick!

 

On the day between their flight and the hospital we went on a gentle amble round the quieter bits of Chania:- particularly the Turkish quarter, being reminded of a proud heritage and a shameful present!

 

Back in Paleochora half the month was dedicated to "Art Week". Now in its third year this event goes from strength to strength, with displays in many locations, a vast array of sculpture on the prom, pavement art, and most bizarrely an underwater exhibition at the little beach near Methixis. This was, of course, not something Greyrocks was going to inspect this time round!

 

 Apologies
 

 And at this point  - with text needed on the social whirl - particularly of the Yiayia Gaga Club - the demands of packing for departure have to take precedence and so this post will be revisited soon!

 

 Read on!

 

 

Street Life

August comes to an end with Ruth having been prevented from enjoying the delights of the warm Libyan sea throughout. The ins and outs and ups and down of the wrist saga can wait for a substantial literary outpouring when it is all over!
When not on buses to/from Chania or at the hospital daytime has - for her - been the weekly cards and Scrabble fests, and solo puzzles and Araucaria crosswords. This adds significance to Paleo evenings. August has seen a steady throughput of old friends too numerous to mention (Quite apart from data privacy issues!) Many have been the 3am departures from Cosmogonia!

What is the collective noun for accordionists?

 

 

There is no hiding place between 8.30 to 11pm in terms of street musicians! Throughout the season there have been two sets of talented young mainland Greeks on the circuit. One is pair of guys out every night playing and singing - sometimes in Irish style. The second is a larger troupe with a changing line-up which usually involves dancers of both genders. They all hang out at the campsite. The Greek repertoire becomes predictable, but there is skill, a worthwhile performance at each stop and some restraint in the cash collection process! The same cannot be said of the numerous accordionists, who have become a true annoyance. This hit a new low last night when their number was swelled by a solo nine-year old Roma girl with a toy accordion.

 

Normally, however there are three sets, each with at least one child. Every stop starts with about a quarter of "Never on a Sunday" played at too slow a tempo.

 

Q:Whats the difference between Terrorists and Accordion players?
A:Terrorists have sympathizers
 

However two exceptions must be noted! Last week the oldest of the players turned up with a "lady assistant":- a mature fiddler of Northern European looks! Together they played substantial sets in Viennese/Hungarian/old Parisian style looking like they were enjoying it and with good grace! She has now gone back whence she came and normality resumed.

 

Second was a big surprise early in the season when "British John from Azogires" appeared outside Akrogiali  with - yes - an accordion! Greyrocks has been seeing him and his family around the village for many years, and had no idea of his talent.  Now that he is living "down here" he has been playing several times a week in selected places. On the first occasion he did not even seek cash on the grounds (pre-referendum) that it would be in bad taste! His repertoire is vast! We have had long musical discussions and following one he was there next day having practised Fairport's "Matty Grove" He also introduced us to "Libertango"! He has of late been working with a guitar-playing female singer.

And so to the Latino connection! In July the village was once again graced by the Mexican stilt-walking fire-twirling clown! Greyrocks has nightly Spanish  interchanges with him when he is around! Just after Ruth's accident he was once again in the street but sans-stilts and limping! The best he could was balloon-modelling following his rapid unplanned descent, and Greyrocks speculates as to the fate of his fire accoutrements when it happened!

More Spanish conversation - of sorts - with Julian and Lorena, although not with dog Trico or eight-month old son! They are travelling the world with motor-bike and sidecar and selling things to finance it all! Most evenings they are on the seafront with a huge display of maps, photos and multi-lingual information. They have been in Greece since before the baby was born and their website does not yet reflect his arrival nor that of the sidecar, but is a delight to read! Now that's travelling!

Buena Suerte!

 

 

 



A Bit of a Break at Half-Time

Ruth is writing this post one-handed!


Greyrocks reached the halfway point in its Paleo stay on 12th August and on that day Ruth found herself pacing up and down the corridor of the Orthopaedic ward of Chania General Hospital in excruciating pain after an operation on her arm! The month had started so well!  The weather was somewhat bizarre, but on the evening of the 1st we went to the re-furbished Atoli bar to watch Flush Royale. This is what they do! There we met an interesting British couple from Vamos who know a lot about live music around Chania. It was a wonderful gig, and included Greyrocks dancing after midnight to "Hotel  California" after a public announcement that it was now our 30th Wedding Anniversary!

The day then passed off without much of interest happening - although the weather was nothing to write home about, being very windy! Then we had our party. The slide show says it all!

A commentary on local celebration cakes is promised therein, so before picking up on the arm saga here it is:

Prior to 2010 such cakes were best ordered from Michaelis' pastry shop, where a less sickly confection could be chosen and designs were faithfully followed; but the shop closed and Vakakis took over the role. Our first encounter was for our 25th anniversary. See here for the tale of that effort! Next year it was a tasteful birthday cake for Ruth's 60th for which some slippage had taken place in the transliteration and the name was spelt PUTH! and three years ago we ordered a cake for Duke's 70th - see what happened then!

For four days after the fall Ruth thought she could deal with the  injury with ice-packs, elevation, paracetemol and a bodged sling, but repeated nagging from several German medics, a Pilates teacher, a retired physiologist et al led to a trip to Kandanos for an X-ray and next day Greyrocks' first encounter with said public hospital bearing her EHIC card. The diagnosis - delivered in perfect English by a surgeon who had worked at the Royal London was a complicated fracture of radius with something nasty going on in the small bones of the wrist. Oh Dear!

Catharsis is a good Greek word for what we need to do in a couple of weeks' time, as it has all been so grim and there is more ahead! We have seen the best and the worst of a state health system in crisis! For the moment the headlines are:

• operation under a local anaesthetic to fix pins into the bones to hold a hinged contraption
• a night in a ward with three bed-ridden old ladies including a German alcoholic with dementia ("Carry On Nurse" it wasn't!)
• damage to nerves and tendons causing pain in the palm and finger-tips especially at night
• a severely reduced wardrobe
• no sea, contact lenses, fish on the bone, clapping, mending, unscrewing lids handstands........
• stitches out on Friday!

However, it really could have been so much worse!
Watch this space!

 

What's new? (Beware:Full of spoilers!)

Greyrocks has been in the village for a month now and the annual rundown on changes is long overdue! So we put to one side the most significant feature - the Greek economic crisis - and offer a list with no claim that it is exhaustive. Readers who would prefer to discover things for themselves should switch off now!

Fixtures and Fittings (but for how long?)

Over the winter a set of new park-style benches has been sited at key viewpoints on both beachside roads. Along with these on the Sandy Beach side Gerhard - the sculptor from Kondouras - has added five more of his oeuvres. This makes for an interesting stroll down from  the Kastello to the Petrakis supermarket. It is not clear whether they will stay or are part of the Art Season which is the development after two annual Art "Weeks".

In an attempt to stop ridiculous parking on the Palm Tree Road a line of small bollards has been placed a short distance from the pavement. It works but a fair few have fallen victim to the legendary local driving habits!

Amina H in Istanbul

And we have had a mystery ship! Since Greyrocks arrived there had been a large cargo vessel anchored some way out from Limnaki beach. In fact was there much longer than that, having left Istanbul at the end of March.The gossip is that it holds grain of some sort and there is an ongoing dispute. It was identifiable on LiveShips as the Amina H; but on Thursday there it was:- gone. Not on the web and not on the horizon! Later it was discovered (online, of course) in Souda Bay. Although not beautiful it had  been useful as a weather-vane, shifting direction with the wind!

And on the subject of wind and things gone, something has been done to the public toilets at the Sandy Beach, which have exuded nasty niffs through as many summers as Greyrocks can remember and now don't! Is this another achievement of the new mayor?

There has been a normal level of retail use changes. Notable additions are a new beauty and massage parlour in what was the video rental place. It is run by Greek Americans, and Ruth let the masseur loose on her knee injury to good effect. Also on the Palm Tree Road there is a rather posh baby- and child-wear shop, a pretty tasteless T-shirt shop, a pavement juice and coffee kiosk as part of the old pool-hall/internet café, a more regularly open 1-Euro shop and the final closure of the very old kafenion nearby. On Fridays a Vodaphone trailer shop sits outside Petrakis. The third and barely-functioning pharmacy near the bus station has closed and is now the site of a funeral parlour. Ruth mistook this for a florists and talked about basil plants! Down on the Stony Prom the amusement arcade has doubled in width, and there is a sort of Play Zone in what was the Sunrise Bar!

Beach Conditions

With so many things awry it is great to report that this vital part of Greyrocks' life is in good nick! The sandshifters - both mechanical and natural - have been at work and the entry to the sea where it matters to us is better than for several years, and the little rock pool near the cantina has once again become a hub for families with children. There is now a relatively smooth wide path down from the centre car park:- a legacy of sand shifting, and Greyrocks has established its lair where it was last year under the tree. This is right next to Yiannis the new sunbed man, and so it appeared at least tolerated - if not official and there have so far been no incidents! Yiannis is in fact a former neighbour and he runs a tight sunbed ship! He supervises almost full-time so there is none of the free-loading and silly reservation that was possible previously with the over-stretched Tony. His domain runs from the kids' rock-pool beyond the cantina to the new path down from the car park. With the exception of two consecutive days in late June there have been ample beds everyday and often quite a few empty ones. He is also open to proper advance bookings! On busy days such as those mentioned and likely to happen as August looms a problem is the absence of Block A:- the twenty or so sets of beds in front of the bungalows! No-one wanted to have the contract at the price and thus there is a wide expanse of clear beach which looks like the cordon sanitaire between the textile community and the rest! Along the back of the beach however a line of trees has been planted giving the prospect of good shade in years to come.

Meanwhile the "town" end of the beach is set up for a very busy summer with - it seems - the density of sunbeds that appalled Greyrocks last year. The very large parasols at the back also now have new luxury upholstered sunbeds, and some of the minor bars have placed tables and chairs at the back of the beach. Last week the Blue Flag was raised. The municipality has three beaches listed for the season but the actual flags have taken time to arrive. The others are the stony beach and one at Gramenon. Nothing for Anidri (Giali Skari) though! As an aside we were shocked to read that our Chania bolt-hole of Nea Hora has had its 2015 one withdrawn!

The cantina at our end (Limnaki) has been slightly expanded and is operating much as last year, although Yiannis (cousin of Yiannis!) is now a proud husband and father following Tanya giving birth to a daughter. The baby has not yet been seen at the cantina itself as almost as soon as the forty days had elapsed it became too windy and then too hot.

Food and Drink

"What d'ya want?"

As expected there are some changes in what is on offer by way of tavernas and other restaurants. Dionysos on the main street which was barely open last season is now permanently closed, as is the bar/ pastry shop in the old OTE office. Skala did not open for the start of the season and its prospects looked bleak:- the reason being cited was the loss of trade to the new bakery opposite particularly when Skala had live music. It then did open fairly recently as a bar. (Last night Greyrocks briefly sampled the place when the KKE held a celebration by the harbour of the fall of the colonels, which involved souvlaki, speeches and some very good lyra/laouto  music) The loss of a live music venue  was compounded by the death during the year of Giorgos from Atoli. Although still operating it is not until this week that we have seen signs of the live rock music that was such an attraction. It is serving food but Suzie from there is now cooking at Papagalos, which is on course to be a Greyrocks favourite. It is located where Tassos had his Seagull until a few years ago and renovations started last season with some limited late operation. No expense has been spared with permanent roofing and floor, strong blinds and good planting. There are also about eight caged birds some of which are occasionally at liberty and some of whom can be persuaded to "talk". The main menu is straightforward and there are plenty of varied daily dishes with Suzie's imprint!



An apt name ,but it's Finikas now!

Gentrification of the village continues with two new "wine bar" experiences. One is in the reception area of the Hotel Polydoros on the Palm Tree Road. Whilst the rooms have been there since the year dot there was nothing but space below. Now we have Monika's Garden running through from street to ..yes.. a garden! As yet untried by Greyrocks it is said to be a peaceful haven. The second is not exactly new but an extension:- Finikas is the preferred name now for the Palm Tree. Also a very popular and cheap daytime spot since early days and run by a delightful family it now continues into the evening serving very good wine and food from a short and changing menu. The style and quality of the food is reminiscent of the Anidri Schoolhouse (see several previous enthusiastic Greyrocks references). That means fresh local ingredients with interesting sauces, good provision for veggies and modern presentation. It is rightly getting some good reviews, but failing somewhat in the re-branding!

The newest full restaurant is Angelos, which has opened very recently at the entry to the old town:- next to Aristeas and where old Fotis used to sit with his wood sculptures. It is run by a former partner at Porto Fino, and is -again - on the Greyrocks "to do" list! The development has had a knock-on effect of closing some street seating at Pantelis, which has itself expanded further back up the little lane that is its main territory.

As usual Greyrocks intends to help the village economy more widely by spreading around its dining choices amongst the many possibilities, but ends up going to the same much-loved half-dozen. "Must try harder!"


 

Limping Down the Road Again!



"Not with these knees!"

Here is the retrospective on stuff other than the Greek Crisis that has engaged Greyrocks since landing in Heraklion after dark on 17th June. We had booked in to a hotel close to what is known as Bus Station B and spent the evening in its top floor bar wallowing in cheap(ish) Greek wine, Greek traffic noise and Greek summer night weather. How different from Bristol! Next morning somehow Ruth and the wheelie bags were steered to the bus which was going all the way to Matala and was initially almost empty save for a dozen Matala-type folk a third of our age! The hotel in Matala itself had been booked for almost a year, but to start from Friday - not Thursday, so the plan was to get off early in Pitsidia, which we remember as a mellow and genuinely alternative small village. We had a room booked but little idea where it was. The town of Moires has little to commend it, but it is a major bus junction. We arrived there with a double seat each and the glow of believing coming a day early was very wise. A few festival-bound Italians got on, we waited and a bus arrived with another bunch of assorted nationality from Agia Galini . Some had to stand! Then after another wait another bus (from Rethymnon) arrived and dozens more travellers with tents, cool boxes, all manner of musical instruments, dreadlocks,  bed rolls, etc! Greyrocks slunk into window seats and speculated about how we would ever get out and be united with our luggage in Pitsidia given the state of Ruth's knees; but we did and went straight to the bus-stop kafenion for a much needed beer or two. (It ad been almost three hours!) It emerged that our room was not at all nearby and that no taxi driver could or would get us there so the nice owner came out and got us! Highly recommended for an inland stay - if you have a car! We hobbled to the only real option for a meal and next day were given a lift all the way to our Matala hotel, where we were greeted effusively and given a small but beautifully appointed room, (which we were told we could also have had the previous night if we had asked!)

This was the fifth Matala Festival and Greyrocks has been at them all. Its reputation has spread and it is widely advertised. It has been run by a variety of set-ups and the flavour evolves, so that it is now a BEACH festival, rather than a HIPPIE Revival one. This has changed the line-up from bands playing old stuff to anyone that will come! Tribute bans are still there: this year The Doors and Pink Floyd as before, and a brilliant solo Italian Neil Young who was on the village square stage, but the rest was not really what Greyrocks wanted: especially the Saturday night offering  - as last year of Tonis Sfinos whose vast popularity with Greeks of all ages remains a complete mystery! It was good to see a number of new Greek bands who could rock if not with anything remarkable in their repertoire!

There were far fewer street stalls this time and it is starting to become difficult to know where to eat and drink as at peak times there simply isn't the capacity. A further disappointment came when we met up with the Kalyves crowd (which grows exponentially by the year) at The Lions and found Giorgos the mellow waiter had moved on! After several litres of red wine we all came to the conclusion that it was being watered down, so the place lost its long-held status as viewing spot of choice! No good substitute has yet been found! Also as a would-be feminist hippie Ruth finds the interpretation of "flower power" as bands of tarty made-up schoolgirls in bikinis with a bit of body-paint and a commercial artificial garland doing "selfies" a bit galling - but, hey!- that's grumpy old woman for you!


This ATM or the whole nation?

But this was Greyrocks' first couple of days in Greece for the season so it was time to chill out! There is one ATM in Matala so we thought we would pay a casual visit on Friday before it got busy. This is what we found! Not a panic for Greyrocks but the idea of three days of many thousands of visitors and no cash to be spent was
grim. The mayor, or whoever must have thought so too, as relief was soon there in the form of a G4 van, and it kept coming for the weekend! Ruth queued up soon after the first replenishment with German-speakers and forgetting all about "Peace and Love" sounded off about whose fault it all was! Not Greyrocks' finest moment and she was duly rebuked for lack of karma!

On Monday morning tight plans were made for an early arrival at the bus stop to guarantee a seat for the long journey back to Heraklion. These were thwarted by a change of buses at the last minute and Bob had to grovel to join Ruth on the over-crowded bus! That was his karma rather poked for a couple of hours! (And a Greyrocks decision that we are too old for this Malarkey and will definitely bring the car next year!)

We took a cab back to Bus Station A and a bus to Chania passing through some cloud then stayed overnight in a central Chania hotel. Our diligent reader will know that getting a Chinese meal in the city is a treat which has given grief in the past (see last year in particular) but we were sure we knew what to do this time! It has closed! What is the problem??
So we ended up in a very nice place and R enjoyed a perfect kleftiko instead!
Next morning we toured the bike shops of Chania in search of a cheap or second-hand bike for Ruth and failed; but we got the midday bus and although it stopped at every pile of goat dung we did eventually make it to our little paradise of Paleo!