Greyrocks has been in the village for a month now and the annual rundown on changes is long overdue! So we put to one side the most significant feature - the Greek economic crisis - and offer a list with no claim that it is exhaustive. Readers who would prefer to discover things for themselves should switch off now!
Fixtures and Fittings (but for how long?)
Over the winter a set of new park-style benches has been sited at key viewpoints on both beachside roads. Along with these on the Sandy Beach side Gerhard - the sculptor from Kondouras - has added five more of his oeuvres. This makes for an interesting stroll down from the Kastello to the Petrakis supermarket. It is not clear whether they will stay or are part of the Art Season which is the development after two annual Art "Weeks".
In an attempt to stop ridiculous parking on the Palm Tree Road a line of small bollards has been placed a short distance from the pavement. It works but a fair few have fallen victim to the legendary local driving habits!
And we have had a mystery ship! Since Greyrocks arrived there had been a large cargo vessel anchored some way out from Limnaki beach. In fact was there much longer than that, having left Istanbul at the end of March.The gossip is that it holds grain of some sort and there is an ongoing dispute. It was identifiable on LiveShips as the Amina H; but on Thursday there it was:- gone. Not on the web and not on the horizon! Later it was discovered (online, of course) in Souda Bay. Although not beautiful it had been useful as a weather-vane, shifting direction with the wind!
And on the subject of wind and things gone, something has been done to the public toilets at the Sandy Beach, which have exuded nasty niffs through as many summers as Greyrocks can remember and now don't! Is this another achievement of the new mayor?
There has been a normal level of retail use changes. Notable additions are a new beauty and massage parlour in what was the video rental place. It is run by Greek Americans, and Ruth let the masseur loose on her knee injury to good effect. Also on the Palm Tree Road there is a rather posh baby- and child-wear shop, a pretty tasteless T-shirt shop, a pavement juice and coffee kiosk as part of the old pool-hall/internet café, a more regularly open 1-Euro shop and the final closure of the very old kafenion nearby. On Fridays a Vodaphone trailer shop sits outside Petrakis. The third and barely-functioning pharmacy near the bus station has closed and is now the site of a funeral parlour. Ruth mistook this for a florists and talked about basil plants! Down on the Stony Prom the amusement arcade has doubled in width, and there is a sort of Play Zone in what was the Sunrise Bar!
Beach Conditions
With so many things awry it is great to report that this vital part of Greyrocks' life is in good nick! The sandshifters - both mechanical and natural - have been at work and the entry to the sea where it matters to us is better than for several years, and the little rock pool near the cantina has once again become a hub for families with children. There is now a relatively smooth wide path down from the centre car park:- a legacy of sand shifting, and Greyrocks has established its lair where it was last year under the tree. This is right next to Yiannis the new sunbed man, and so it appeared at least tolerated - if not official and there have so far been no incidents! Yiannis is in fact a former neighbour and he runs a tight sunbed ship! He supervises almost full-time so there is none of the free-loading and silly reservation that was possible previously with the over-stretched Tony. His domain runs from the kids' rock-pool beyond the cantina to the new path down from the car park. With the exception of two consecutive days in late June there have been ample beds everyday and often quite a few empty ones. He is also open to proper advance bookings! On busy days such as those mentioned and likely to happen as August looms a problem is the absence of Block A:- the twenty or so sets of beds in front of the bungalows! No-one wanted to have the contract at the price and thus there is a wide expanse of clear beach which looks like the cordon sanitaire between the textile community and the rest! Along the back of the beach however a line of trees has been planted giving the prospect of good shade in years to come.
Meanwhile the "town" end of the beach is set up for a very busy summer with - it seems - the density of sunbeds that appalled Greyrocks last year. The very large parasols at the back also now have new luxury upholstered sunbeds, and some of the minor bars have placed tables and chairs at the back of the beach. Last week the Blue Flag was raised. The municipality has three beaches listed for the season but the actual flags have taken time to arrive. The others are the stony beach and one at Gramenon. Nothing for Anidri (Giali Skari) though! As an aside we were shocked to read that our Chania bolt-hole of Nea Hora has had its 2015 one withdrawn!
The cantina at our end (Limnaki) has been slightly expanded and is operating much as last year, although Yiannis (cousin of Yiannis!) is now a proud husband and father following Tanya giving birth to a daughter. The baby has not yet been seen at the cantina itself as almost as soon as the forty days had elapsed it became too windy and then too hot.
Food and Drink
As expected there are some changes in what is on offer by way of tavernas and other restaurants. Dionysos on the main street which was barely open last season is now permanently closed, as is the bar/ pastry shop in the old OTE office. Skala did not open for the start of the season and its prospects looked bleak:- the reason being cited was the loss of trade to the new bakery opposite particularly when Skala had live music. It then did open fairly recently as a bar. (Last night Greyrocks briefly sampled the place when the KKE held a celebration by the harbour of the fall of the colonels, which involved souvlaki, speeches and some very good lyra/laouto music) The loss of a live music venue was compounded by the death during the year of Giorgos from Atoli. Although still operating it is not until this week that we have seen signs of the live rock music that was such an attraction. It is serving food but Suzie from there is now cooking at Papagalos, which is on course to be a Greyrocks favourite. It is located where Tassos had his Seagull until a few years ago and renovations started last season with some limited late operation. No expense has been spared with permanent roofing and floor, strong blinds and good planting. There are also about eight caged birds some of which are occasionally at liberty and some of whom can be persuaded to "talk". The main menu is straightforward and there are plenty of varied daily dishes with Suzie's imprint!
Gentrification of the village continues with two new "wine bar" experiences. One is in the reception area of the Hotel Polydoros on the Palm Tree Road. Whilst the rooms have been there since the year dot there was nothing but space below. Now we have Monika's Garden running through from street to ..yes.. a garden! As yet untried by Greyrocks it is said to be a peaceful haven. The second is not exactly new but an extension:- Finikas is the preferred name now for the Palm Tree. Also a very popular and cheap daytime spot since early days and run by a delightful family it now continues into the evening serving very good wine and food from a short and changing menu. The style and quality of the food is reminiscent of the Anidri Schoolhouse (see several previous enthusiastic Greyrocks references). That means fresh local ingredients with interesting sauces, good provision for veggies and modern presentation. It is rightly getting some good reviews, but failing somewhat in the re-branding!
The newest full restaurant is Angelos, which has opened very recently at the entry to the old town:- next to Aristeas and where old Fotis used to sit with his wood sculptures. It is run by a former partner at Porto Fino, and is -again - on the Greyrocks "to do" list! The development has had a knock-on effect of closing some street seating at Pantelis, which has itself expanded further back up the little lane that is its main territory.
As usual Greyrocks intends to help the village economy more widely by spreading around its dining choices amongst the many possibilities, but ends up going to the same much-loved half-dozen. "Must try harder!"
Over the winter a set of new park-style benches has been sited at key viewpoints on both beachside roads. Along with these on the Sandy Beach side Gerhard - the sculptor from Kondouras - has added five more of his oeuvres. This makes for an interesting stroll down from the Kastello to the Petrakis supermarket. It is not clear whether they will stay or are part of the Art Season which is the development after two annual Art "Weeks".
In an attempt to stop ridiculous parking on the Palm Tree Road a line of small bollards has been placed a short distance from the pavement. It works but a fair few have fallen victim to the legendary local driving habits!
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| Amina H in Istanbul |
And on the subject of wind and things gone, something has been done to the public toilets at the Sandy Beach, which have exuded nasty niffs through as many summers as Greyrocks can remember and now don't! Is this another achievement of the new mayor?
There has been a normal level of retail use changes. Notable additions are a new beauty and massage parlour in what was the video rental place. It is run by Greek Americans, and Ruth let the masseur loose on her knee injury to good effect. Also on the Palm Tree Road there is a rather posh baby- and child-wear shop, a pretty tasteless T-shirt shop, a pavement juice and coffee kiosk as part of the old pool-hall/internet café, a more regularly open 1-Euro shop and the final closure of the very old kafenion nearby. On Fridays a Vodaphone trailer shop sits outside Petrakis. The third and barely-functioning pharmacy near the bus station has closed and is now the site of a funeral parlour. Ruth mistook this for a florists and talked about basil plants! Down on the Stony Prom the amusement arcade has doubled in width, and there is a sort of Play Zone in what was the Sunrise Bar!
Beach Conditions
With so many things awry it is great to report that this vital part of Greyrocks' life is in good nick! The sandshifters - both mechanical and natural - have been at work and the entry to the sea where it matters to us is better than for several years, and the little rock pool near the cantina has once again become a hub for families with children. There is now a relatively smooth wide path down from the centre car park:- a legacy of sand shifting, and Greyrocks has established its lair where it was last year under the tree. This is right next to Yiannis the new sunbed man, and so it appeared at least tolerated - if not official and there have so far been no incidents! Yiannis is in fact a former neighbour and he runs a tight sunbed ship! He supervises almost full-time so there is none of the free-loading and silly reservation that was possible previously with the over-stretched Tony. His domain runs from the kids' rock-pool beyond the cantina to the new path down from the car park. With the exception of two consecutive days in late June there have been ample beds everyday and often quite a few empty ones. He is also open to proper advance bookings! On busy days such as those mentioned and likely to happen as August looms a problem is the absence of Block A:- the twenty or so sets of beds in front of the bungalows! No-one wanted to have the contract at the price and thus there is a wide expanse of clear beach which looks like the cordon sanitaire between the textile community and the rest! Along the back of the beach however a line of trees has been planted giving the prospect of good shade in years to come.
Meanwhile the "town" end of the beach is set up for a very busy summer with - it seems - the density of sunbeds that appalled Greyrocks last year. The very large parasols at the back also now have new luxury upholstered sunbeds, and some of the minor bars have placed tables and chairs at the back of the beach. Last week the Blue Flag was raised. The municipality has three beaches listed for the season but the actual flags have taken time to arrive. The others are the stony beach and one at Gramenon. Nothing for Anidri (Giali Skari) though! As an aside we were shocked to read that our Chania bolt-hole of Nea Hora has had its 2015 one withdrawn!
The cantina at our end (Limnaki) has been slightly expanded and is operating much as last year, although Yiannis (cousin of Yiannis!) is now a proud husband and father following Tanya giving birth to a daughter. The baby has not yet been seen at the cantina itself as almost as soon as the forty days had elapsed it became too windy and then too hot.
Food and Drink
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| "What d'ya want?" |
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| An apt name ,but it's Finikas now! |
The newest full restaurant is Angelos, which has opened very recently at the entry to the old town:- next to Aristeas and where old Fotis used to sit with his wood sculptures. It is run by a former partner at Porto Fino, and is -again - on the Greyrocks "to do" list! The development has had a knock-on effect of closing some street seating at Pantelis, which has itself expanded further back up the little lane that is its main territory.
As usual Greyrocks intends to help the village economy more widely by spreading around its dining choices amongst the many possibilities, but ends up going to the same much-loved half-dozen. "Must try harder!"
Looking forward to catching up again from the 2nd Sept, and creating more noise !!!......Chris & Jann....... :-)
ReplyDeleteGreyrocks was wondering when we would be honoured with your company! Greatly enjoyed the YouTube vid. from last year! Happy Landings!
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