"There's an awful lot of dried fish in Salcete" and Russians!

Our first week was based halfway down the South Goa coastline at Benaulim. There is general agreement that Palolem is the finest beach in Goa, but a stop on the way down gives access to a very different beach experience: that of the 30 kilometres of uninterrupted, wide and sandy shore that runs from near the airport to Mobor. There are some pockets of "tat" - Colva, Cavelossim,,,,, but between them are stretches that are almost deserted - even in peak season! We were about halfway in both distance and level of development!
This stay was also the first stage of of three in downgrading the accommodation. We couldn't stay where Bob had in 2015 and chose another mid-range place, then closer to departure date looked again at its spec and decided to go for a "Superior" room - for WiFi and space. as soon as we arrived we were delighted with the decision. The "resort" itself is surrounded with glorious well-maintained garden including many palms, and the best rooms are in an old colonial house and furnished with four-poster beds, modern plumbing and sumptuous drapery! Their gallery shows it well!
Breakfast is included and taken in the garden where often the company includes a colony of Indian palm squirrels:- athletic and vociferous! We eschewed the 7 am yoga sessions, but their existence sets the tone: tranquil and civilised! The location was also ideal!

Best turn over and do the other side!

It was  just outside the bustling centre of the village, with a huge choice of restaurants,a good selection of shops, and plenty of tuk-tuks if you didn't want to walk the busy way to the beach. But by walking in the opposite direction and taking a much quieter road there was "Trinity Beach":- considerably quieter but with an adequate selection of (less Russian-targeted) shacks and available sun-beds.
Along the road were surprised to see numerous single layers of carefully sorted sea-life in the road, and at dilapidated buildings many enormous fishing nets  - much larger than used by the simple boats at the local seashore, so we assume this is the home of workers in much more commercial concerns elsewhere.

We enjoyed our week a lot and were frequently in the sea, which was deliciously warm and not too rough. Cycling along the beach was an obvious thing to do, but Ruth began the week with a blister from wearing her expensive (Shrewsbury) shoes whilst transiting UK and ended it with that healed but nerves about the traffic on access roads! So it was extensive beach walking that registered well on the Fitbit!

Early on Greyrocks had "fun and games" over cash withdrawals. We needed to find the "right" ATM, as some will charge, but no-one publicises which! We can report that the first known entries to the Good List are Baroda and Canara, and there is one of the former in Benaulim, but on a Sunday afternoon it was out of money! Mr Google indicated that there was an ATM going south on the main road, so we took another long (less scenic) walk to find it. It was working, but not with our cards, and the cashier in the bank said that does sometimes happen! Hot and frustrated we hailed a local bus to take us back to Benaulim centre. It was completely full, and they ripped us of on price (30 rupees when it should be 16) - but the original ATM was now happy to deliver!

The final few days coincided with a strike of indeterminate length by taxi drivers. Our host explained the havoc this had caused for arriving and departing guests, but we had a private hire deal and were taken down to Palolem by a seaman who was keen to discuss ports we know! We had to take the inland route and there were some hold-ups but here we are, and tonight we hope to see the Super Blue Blood Moon!