Thursday, 18 October 2018

"Grand Projet": Week 1 - the sunny one!

But first: Roses!

The morning after landing we walked across the road and picked up Yvette, then drove the short distance to our little hotel in the delightful resort of Roses for a three night stay. This was designed to give a rest after the ten days of travel, and fill the gap until the Montpellier apartment was available. The weather was glorious after the foulness of Bristol and Bronagh!
Bob had a bike ride and we walked along the seafront, found the very necessary laundry and had a late tapas lunch. Cycling around is so easy that next day Ruth was persuaded to mount the barely-used bike and we went out for an adventure! We began with territory familiar to Bob: south along the wide promenade until the river stops progress and up to the first bridge and into the nature reserve. This is flat and largely traffic-free. With some uncertainty about the route we managed to reach the sea at Empuriabrava, but en route discovered the feature that brings many coach day-trippers: the extensive canal system. (Looks like one for Tim and Pru!) This honest description says it all! It was a gloriously sunny day, and although it was now almost October there were some folk in the sea, and many on the impressive beach. Greyrocks found a less posh bar and stayed for a bit of lunch. The journey back was going well until Ruth tried to remount after a steep bridge and fell into the road followed by bike! Fortunately cars were going slowly and swerved - with a couple of drivers coming to help- and the helmet was being worn. No damage to the bike, a lot of bruising, a range of muscular aches which have taken a while to resolve, nasty damage to the arthritic big toe, and huge impact on her confidence and pride! She insisted on walking (limping) until the nature reserve, and then succumbed to persistent nagging and manged to ride for most of the way back. A wrong turn added an unfortunate couple of kilometres, but a good day out! The remaining time in Roses was more gentle, but still sunny and mellow with great meals!

A bit of luxury this time round!
October 2018 will be remembered chez Greyrocks as the month of the Montpellier Experiment. Regular readers (all ten of them!) will be aware of a growing fondness - obsession even - with France's fastest growing city. (Yesterday we read it has overtaken Strasbourg to reach No 7 in size - bonus question: name the other six and check here!)  We have been visiting once or twice a year for some time - but always staying in a mobile home on a very pleasant quiet campsite between city centre and sea. As the shone has somewhat worn off the Canaries post-referendum, we have been considering coming here for longer spells in Spring and Autumn, which means an urban apartment. We have spent a little more this time and have one that is proving so good that we have already breached the principle of a "pilot"  and booked it again for the Spring! Three of the four tram lines are within spitting distance, and we have been travelling around with ease.

Compare with Corralejo!
We have to bring the bikes up to our terrace, and the parking of Yvette is very tight, so walking and tram are the preferred ways of getting around.

We did, however, make one car trip:- combining the essential shopping at the Lattes hypermarket with Grau du Roi  - a fishing port that is just over the departmental border, and - like Palavas - has dozens of restaurants along both banks of the river. It was a beautiful day and the place was heaving. Amongst the visitors were several organised groups of cyclists - some British! We had managed to misunderstand a parking meter and pay too much, and then Ruth had an incident of poor design and/or operator error in the automatic loo and began the walking tour with wet feet! However we had an interesting stroll and stopped for a beer on the seafront close to a new statue which reminded us of that at a similar location in Corralejo.

It was late but not dark for us!
It was a bit chilly in the wind at the chosen bar and we decided to delay lunch, thus ending up with that famous French trap of the 2.30 deadline. (We don't learn and continue to come up against it!) By the time we were hungry there seemed to be no chance, and we headed back towards the car, but suddenly spotted a neon sign down an alley advertising all day service and were welcomed to a place that was essentially a creperie, but served us an excellent salad and a bowl of perfect moules! It also had the strangest toilet decor we have seen for a long time!

Bob did a couple of medium-length bike rides during this dry and sunny period, mostly to Lattes along the river; and on the first Sunday Ruth met him there for the huge market. On other days we walked around bits of the city with which we are familiar, tried to go to the cinema, but the programme had changed, and tried to see Neil Conti and his funk band at Pleine Lune, but their residency had recently finished! Ah well - at least we had the sun and pavement cafes etc. Unlike during the coming week! At Comedie there has been a trailer connected with a breast cancer campaign, and in the neighbouring street a display of open pink umbrellas! How apt!






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