Saturday, 31 August 2019

In at the Deep End - or not?

83 days after the accident Ruth makes it into the sea!
Since 2008 we have arrived for our long summer stay some time in June. We have found the village coming alive, and often the sea a bit too cold for ageing sun-seekers. As the weeks progressed people we know would arrive (and then leave) and general tourism levels rise - to ultimately accommodate the Italians, and finally the Greeks. The famous summer winds would be anticipated, but rarely caused trouble for many weeks

Not this year! We were straight in to peak season with pressure on sunbeds, mad traffic, and as can be seen in the table one of the windiest days of the early part of the month was our first - prompting allegations that we had brought it with us!

Our first ten nights had to be in a neighbouring studio as our "usual" apartment was occupied, so we kept things simple! Ruth was walking with the one crutch and struggling with stairs and poor surfaces, so we stuck to nearby establishments and stayed off the beach for a few days, then made arrangements with the local physiotherapist for frequent sessions that structured days and brought new confidence, so that some paddling in the shallows happened, On day 6 we needed to book a taxi for ChloĆ« and Jack so asked for a lift to the cantina car park, where we were greeted effusively, and things started to feel more normal! We even managed to walk slowly and carefully back. Over the next few days we tried various ways to get Ruth's feet into deeper water. A plastic chair against the leaning rock didn't work, and nor did getting down onto a sunbed next to the Europa's mew pool as a guest of Hilary. The breakthrough had to wait until ChloĆ« and Jack arrived and we went to Gramenon - but more of that later! 
We could - however - build the cantina into our days once Ruth could walk there (latterly without the crutch) and Bob went regularly for short swims. The first few evenings were busy with meeting and greeting the usual suspects - especially those like Gunter who were coming to the end of their stay.

Here is the rundown on changes we found in the village:- with the usual "spoiler" warning for those who like surprises! We have seen no newly completed buildings, with construction work is dominated by ongoing major roadworks on the way to Kondouras. This is chaotic, dusty and noisy and follows from a historically severe winter which locals willingly describe.
Some money will also have been made by builders in fitting out the restaurants and bars on the stony side with flash permanent canopies. Greyrocks has not yet discovered how these became legal after several years of bodging! The stately old police station is now occupied as a private residence but has highly pertinent artwork in the grounds. On the restaurant front there are a few developments:


  • The Family Grill (known as The Brothers) has moved to larger charming premises and is "heaving"
  • Pasifaei  has opened on the stony side in what was once The Port. It has been beautifully decorated and is getting good comments. The cuisine is in the style of Finikas, as is the wine policy, which is one of the criticisms, Greyrocks has yet to visit!
  • Aristea has expanded its dining area significantly, and is - even so - usually full!
  • After an impressive start last year Dakos has reverted to a more standard offer
  • Dionisos continues to attract good comments (including from a Greyrocks offshoot!)
The most notable feature, however, is the absence all season of Kiparaki (the Small Garden) - a clear favourite of many folk! This is down to illness and recovery! Much missed!

Down on the beach the density of some sunbeds in the main section has caused comment -as has the price of the posh ones, whilst the shortage on Limnaki has already been causing stress, and September with all those very serious sunseekers has not started! I predict a riot!!


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