Who's going, who's gone and who "ain't goin'" to Goa?

For those unfamiliar here is a reprise of Greyrocks' theme tune for these jaunts!

Greyrocks is over halfway through its time in Palolem, and a month away from heading back to Europe. The short answer - and topic for much debate - is "a lot fewer European tourists this year - and particularly fewer Brits!" (Well, every cloud ...!)

Just the job:- Ibericus - but over-ordered again!

Greyrocks is here, though - for the eighth time - and for the first time across the "festive season". We came over in a manner that largely replicated the January 2019 model:- except that we had an extra night at the Barcelona hotel/ This we had thought would be an opportunity to take their shuttle to the Ramblas and have a short and possibly wet day in the city. We were, both, however, suffering with "the cough and cold", so had a pretty lazy day in the environs of the hotel, including a fruitless hunt for a pharmacy to get discounted medication for Bob. (This was in fact solved at the airport at 6.15 am next morning!) We also discovered that there is now a "food court" in the same mall, with an interesting set of options. This makes our favoured overnight hotel an even better choice!

We flew with Qatar to Doha at about 0830. The Economy cabin was more full than last time, but we still had spare seats around us. The disappointment was some very lumpy conditions soon after take-off meaning no bar service and a late breakfast, as a result of which we arrived (well on time) less "merry" than expected. We had both found media to our taste - notably "Blinded by the Light". In Doha we knew the ropes, and were in fact shepherded through the first class security procedures and into the cavernous departure area. Some of the three hours or so of lay-over was spent in the only "general access" outlet with alcohol, where we treated ourselves to bottle of  French wine! The onward flight direct to Dabolim airport was full, and the Swedes behind us created a sizeable stink about the lack of a non-veg main meal! We hunkered down to more movies, with Ruth following up a tip from Bob of "The Aftermath". It finished ten minutes before landing! No real hassles at Immigration -although Ruth was let off lightly on the fingerprint front (nearly at the threshold of 70 years!). The nice official was impressed with our new five-year visas! The taxi ride was very fast, and the door to our room had been left open! An easy journey overall!

So here we are for fifty nights - with the first few being  a deux pending the arrival of Chloë. In that time we obviously met up with old friends and locals, but also had a long chat with a Tibetan monk in mufti,  walked around enough to discover the film offer would be limited this season, and saw the preparations for Christmas. Amongst the visitors to Goa, therefore, were the Holy Family and their exotic animal friends! Our Goan Catholic landlord arranged them in a sort of "Belen" at the base of the "tree" with lights and other decorations!



Chloë was here! She experienced Goa (and indeed - Asia) for the first time across twelve nights, staying in the room next to ours! Following the demise of Thomas Cook we got her seats on Oman Air via Muscat.  We arranged to take a taxi up to the airport to meet and - mindful of delays and queues - followed advice and didn't set off until shortly before her landing time. With still 15 minutes to go to the airport we started to receive texts asking where we were and telling us she was waiting outside the terminal and being harassed about a taxi! It seems that owning a pen took her to the front of the visa queue! Those on Facebook can see (we imagine) her rich account and some fine photos we still await! 

Say Hello to the Queen

She did manage a cookery class, several yoga sessions, and some shopping for spices, clothes, booze and toiletries  - although Ruth, who loathes bargaining, found herself in the doghouse for speaking unhelpfully during these expeditions! What Chloë missed was seeing wildlife, such as monkeys and dolphins (bathroom frogs and spider excepted) boat rides, kayak hire and going to neighbouring Agonda! And there was the food! Momos, Indian breakfast eggs and tropical fruit figured a lot on her agenda, and our festive meal at Dropadi was pure heaven for all three of us (tiger prawns masala and lobster in butter and garlic. On her last day she found room for the dessert she had been craving: Hello to the Queen! Greyrocks passed on that one!
She shared - sometimes reluctantly - our non-culinary evening activities of live bands, cinema and quizzes, but these are in a dedicated later post! to top it all on the way home - suffering inevitable from "the cold and cough" - she got a free upgrade rot the Muscat-Heathrow flight

Leo Varadkar was here! The  taoiseach came on a private visit.

But quantity and quality of the tourists in this key period is a concern! At peak hours and in places easily accessed on foot the beach has been heaving with Indian visitors, but European numbers have been well down, "They are going to Thailand and Sri Lanka" is the usual explanation. And the local press returns again and again to this "North-South divide" on "quality"! This is an example from the Goa Times last week:

“I haven’t been to Calangute beach in the last 10 years,” says noted musician Lester Godinho who lives in the vicinity. “The kind of tourist—Indian and foreign—coming to Goa of late is nothing short of scum,” stresses the 61-year-old.

‘Cheap’ tourists, who barely patronise establishments and are rude and unruly, often leave the state with litter, almost zero contribution to the economy, and a seething local population.

“You sell yourself as cheap, you will attract cheap tourists,” says a prominent Baga-based restaurateur wishing not to be named. He’s alluding to Goa’s infamy of being a destination for cheap alcohol, drugs and women.

“Quality tourists require quality resorts, quality transport, quality beaches, quality excursions,” says Martin Joseph of the Indian Association of Tour Operators. “We already have that model in place in South Goa. We should be promoting the South to niche markets.”

Some of us "down here in the Deep South" might dispute that behaviour is universally civilised here, but as a friend quoted "You are not a tree - you can move!" Greyrocks has been doing a a fair amount of "shack- shifting" - particularly since high season ended!