"What a difference two weeks makes!"

Free beer during the big
clea at the cantina

This is the traditional "resort report", but with a Co-vid twist. If you are intending to visit you may prefer to skip this post as it is full of "spoilers"

Greyrocks has been here in Paleochora for  over two weeks and in that time there have been changes - nearly all for the better - in a number of areas of interest to those who love the place.

First a very evident negative feature and one that is unlikely to be remedied this season: topography of the beach.There has never been so much exposed rock at the seashore on the sandy side.  Something about the wind force and direction has swept the sand towards the Castello where it sits or drifts off to Libya. We are told there needs to be official action to bring it back to the other end of the bay, but this is not a priority this time round. There are plenty of places for entry to the sea on the main "town" beach of Pachia Ammos. On Greyrocks' customary beach - Limnaki - sea entry is about as easy as last year with one narrow passage well known to aficionados, and a "sandy bottom" once in! Walking along at the shore, however, is somewhat perilous! (A picture of this would be informative, but impossible to take under naturist beach protocol!)

Now there are two

The absence of a layer of sand is in part responsible for aspects of beach fixtures and fittings because parasols cannot be "simply" dug in,  Thus the very sturdy sort with foliage tops and thick wooden posts now dominate. The "town" beach has had plenty of beach furniture since we arrived - particularly the patches managed by Veggera and Atoli. Across the two weeks the fancy beds and mattresses have been added, along with bits of artificial grass and the option to erect green netting around a phalanx of sunbeds when the wind is troublesome (which it was last week and now)  This weekend Manolis at Atoli began his water fun activities:- not too many punters as yet.

Cantina and beach 6th July

Meanwhile down at Limnaki Beach... we have witnessed almost all the developments in the fortnight! We walked first to the cantina where the only sign of life was three puppies, and the only furniture a sorry white plastic chair! On the beach there were five other people. A couple were using mystery sunbeds and the only artificial shade - the permanent parasol used by the "sunbed man" -  was in use.  We found the way into the sea -but it was a brief dip! Two days later there was a line of heavy duty posts at the back of the beach near "our tree". A few more people were carrying beds from the vast pile at the Europa to use near the entry point (quite a walk!) Then John helped us get our beds out of storage and down to the usual spot and that was us sorted for the summer!  Next, the tops were put on the parasols, and then sunbeds arrived. Not many and - on some days not all occupied, but looking more "normal" and now chargeable! In the last few days half a dozen more sets have appeared - but all still to the west of our tree. With his cousin and nephew no longer available for sunbed duty Yiannis is currently combining collection of fees with work at the cantina. If - as predicted - there is to be a surge of Brit and Skandie serious beach folk in August and especially September this could be a struggle! Current sunbed count on Limnaki: 6 "sets" in the  textile area next to the cantina, 9 sets between there and our tree, and a few loose beds round the disused worker's permanent parasol.

The new improved
cantina annexe

Rapid, also has been the "rising of the phoenix from the ashes" that is the Limnaki cantina. Daily inspections revealed that early morning work was soon under way beyond 6th July with first freezers and then the wooden furniture arriving, The tables have to be more distant from each other, so - in part to compensate and also to make the whole venture more attractive - Yiannis proudly showed us how he had cleared and levelled a large area to the side and back of the van. for future expansion. By Monday the main bit was "up and running" with masked staff, but we were having a MOTH day so didn't stay long, Tuesday was a beautiful day so we planned ahead and took pastries from the bakery to be our lunch! As we consumed them with our Fix beer we saw food being served! Way ahead of schedule they are offering "toasts" and two types of salad! We felt slightly embarrassed at importing our own food, but toasted a successful half-season with some nicely chilled white wine! Utter delight for Greyrocks! Such a shame there was a Force 6 wind the next day!

Jetee's expanding empire

Until that point we had fewer options for refreshment on the "Sandy side". In the very busy section Veggera and Atoli have invested heavily as detailed above, and Palm Tree too has some nice new furniture on their beach annexe, and has been open from the beginning of our stay, winding down at about 6 pm when the fine dining operation wold normally take over, but that is news for the next bit! Castello at the extreme end is open during the day, but we haven't yet visited, Zygos is due to open this Sunday (26th) with measures to overcome crowding at and of tables, and Jetee has had substantial construction work to extend seating space further into the beach and volleyball area. Regulars find the absence of stools at the bar a problem, and the video music is very quiet or non-existent, but the staff are some of the best! They currently close at sunset, but do pretty well during the day - with a lot of local youth!

Sample arrivals: Today at Chania

Greyrocks is being asked about visitor numbers, and perhaps the most striking aspect is the contrast for each of the weeks is how the village fills at the weekend. Numerous family groups - some very large - come down from Chania for a long day or stay one night. They drive - of course - and there is a real shortage of parking space, and they accumulate in the central beach area and eat at the cheapest places, so at times it feels like normal high season. And then they go! Otherwise staying holidaymakers form mixed picture by nationality! We have surprised folk by arriving ahead of the July 15th opening to UK flights. (By coming from Spain!) That date did not seem to make a great deal of difference, as there are still very few Brits, or perhaps they are not advertising their provenance! Norwegians have started to arrive, but Austrians and Germans have been here in small numbers since we arrived. We await the Swedes. A Dublin flight was used by a long term couple as a route back to UK, and each one since has brought in folk we know. The French and Italians are increasing in numbers, but it may be a bit early for large numbers. We do not expect many Finns. There seem to be organised groups of Czechs or Slovaks. We met a lovely Dutch couple last week - on their way to Gavdos from their second home near Matala.

One factor deterring some regulars is the extent to which hygiene measures are applied. Our observation is "patchy"! When we arrived at the tourist room we occupy there were notes on cleansing routines used, sanitised item from towels to remote controls sealed in plastic and bottles of sanitiser. Rooms are not routinely cleaned: this must be requested, so this was reassuring. Most bars have cut down on tables and the numbers at each were initially restricted but apparently that no longer applies. Most have plenty of sanitiser around. All waiting-on staff must wear face coverings and this has led - during our time here - to an outbreak of chin-fixed visors as modelled here by Adonis at the Family Grill. Most places have changed practices with regard to table-top items: wrapped cutlery and condiments, for example, and some have QR coded menus and greater use of chalkboards. As of this Monday there is EUR 150 fine for customers not wearing a face covering in supermarkets. As yet the approach to that is "relaxed"!

The next post will consider the restaurants of the village and their opening policies. For now this one needs to be published!