Who is where and when?? We know why!

 Under Plan A today Greyrocks would be leaving Cyprus to fly to Bristol for the advised 46 days of UK stay, including  some visits to friends and family and our own bit of "staycation". Instead we are into Plan B and have extended our 4* sojourn to get us beyond Ruth's special birthday and into a period of more certainty about UK self-isolation rules. The prospect of "down-sizing" is a realistic one, as is flying direct to Crete for an earlier start to the 90 days. These are Plans C and D! 

"How does Cyprus shape up?" the reader - perhaps even the one in Halifax - may ask! The facts are as follows:

 It goes without saying that since our last visit (Christmas 1991) there have been some changes! And Greyrocks has spent increasing amounts of time per year in our other bases - including Goa - so the differences - both strengths and perceived weaknesses - are striking. Here is a selection:

 

The people and their attitudes to visitors are very similar to those in Crete, with perhaps more obvious piety in terms of Orthodox adherence!

Many of the seasonal workers are from Romania, as opposed to Albanian. It is interesting that there is now a staff shortage in hospitality as many folk went home for the three-week Easter lockdown and have not returned.

The number of Russian tourists (and those from former Soviet states) is stunning, and there are established businesses aimed directly at that market. Cyrillic script is as prevalent as in Goa or Rethymnon. (There are also quite a few investment-related notices in Chinese!)

When we first arrived there was talk of many cancellations by Israelis. This was during their home nation's worst aggression against the Palestinians, and we felt little sympathy. This week they seem to be back - and travelling in packs of spoilt millennials as well as families.

Brits form a tiny minority in the hotel where we are, and in Larnaca where we started. In fact we may be the only ones here with the exception of a handful of stranded helicopter pilots. The evidence of the colonial past and continuing presence of two sovereign RAF bases is substantial and rather freaky when much seems so Greek and familiar! Driving on the left in right-hand drive cars with number plates just like older ones in UK is an example. Meanwhile for this unique summer season there are vast numbers of pubs and eateries aimed at Brits which are closed or even up for sale. There are inward flights from England, and it seems some holiday-makers have come - particularly in the last few days. Mainly. though, English conversations heard are between resident retirees.  Sometimes this brings out the worst in Greyrocks and we speculate about their politics. In an act of defiance and solidarity with all the victims of struggles to throw off the British yoke of imperialism we took ourselves on a bus ride up the coast on Saturday to see the memorial to General Grivas and the museum featuring his caique. After a long viewing we wrote something apt in the Visitors' Book!

Staying as we are in quite a posh hotel (with a ban on delivery meals!) we have eaten out a lot. There is a breakfast buffet (no ban on such things in Cyprus!) which is extensive and well-run, but a total bear-pit at weekends. Almost every buffet we have ever come across has some warning about taking food away from it - or even a ban on bags. Not here so after a few days we twigged and it has furnished sandwich lunches as well when we stay on site! We have eaten in several Cypriot tavernas - including what claims to be the oldest and which we do remember form those early holidays! The differences between - say - Cretan cuisine and Cypriot are small, but there is great emphasis on mezes, and competition between tavernas over size and/or value. These are fixed sets of dishes, and reminiscent of the Canarian take on tapas. Neither suits us!

 We have found two very sophisticated Chinese restaurants, and been to two Italian ones. At one of these we only went in  for a pizza and bottle of wine but discovered it had lofty ideas and as well as the very good pizza we were given a plat of assorted amuses bouches.-, and a flash ice cream dessert! 

Our other discoveries may surprise those who know us or follow the blog! We have been a few times to a British restaurant! Not a greasy spoon but a light and airy all day place serving well cooked "national dishes". And then last night - following up a strong recommendation from the pilots we went to The Lodge - advertising itself as Southern African! It is on the doorstep and we have passed it a dozen times and stuck our woke noses in the air! How could we - with Ruth's anti-apartheid credentials?? We still don't know if the owners are celebrating the Rainbow Nation, or white émigrés. Is this "tongue in cheek"?

Anyway we went and it was excellent! See Trip Advisor comment in a few days!

 Worn down by a naughty mouse, dodgy internet connection and too much sun the sections on climate, beaches and development Ruth retires to publish and be damned!!