Goa Retrospective 4: Being in Beni!

After our fifty nights in Palolem it was time to move about  35 km north to Benaulim. This would be our third stay there - and with a bit of luxury at Palm Grove. Our beach base was often at Castello, on the way to Trinity Beach, where our Paleo pals spend each day of their long stay. It is a very pleasant shack, and typical of the less densely packed development along this long straight and wide stretch of beach. The resort itself attracts many more Russians than Palolem, has more facilities, is a base for parasailing, a gentle, generally quiet vibe and a throng of women selling stuff! There are fewer backpackers and more British long-stayers. It made a pleasant change in preparation for going home. The main disappointment was the state of the sea, which remained too rough for Greyrocks to swim!


On two days we walked to neighbouring beaches. First we planned to get a tuk-tuk from the village centre to Sernabetim, but we could only find proper taxis so we walked on the road, which is a very long and winding one! "Are we there yet?" The beach was wonderfully quiet with a view up to Colva, which clearly isn't! We did not however linger there and walked back looking for an in-between shack we recalled, but failed and were soon back at the Beach Road junction. On a second day we aimed to find a recommended shack in the opposite direction. Once again we were not exactly sure what we were doing, but ended up skirting the posh Taj Exotica hotel. and did emerge on the beach at Sun and Moon as planned! It is, indeed, a very appealing place and we might have eaten there if we had stayed until a bit later, but the down side was a very vocal group of Brits (and a German) whose discourse started to turn racist!

Why did the cattle (and egrets) cross the road?

More usually we would walk to the beach along "Fish Road". This has been described before and there are still very striking swathes of drying fish, but in addition on one such walk we encountered an enormous trawling net drying all across the road. Traffic had to drive across it, and then a large herd of cattle was led from one field to another across it, leaving a few deposits on the net!



And on the subject of cattle another site seen only on Benaulim beach was the leading of a bull with a log weighting down its neck. We learnt that this is to strengthen the neck in preparation for dhirio - banned since 1997, but still popular!

We also ate well in Beni - including Ruth having a very messy crab masala, and Bob a "beef sizzler"!

Goa retrospective 3: Three ventures that really work in Goa and one that doesn't!

1. Flipkart

This is the Indian rival to Amazon. Greyrocks' attempt to bring out a cleaning kit for the laptop failed, but we were talking to Entrepreneur John and he offered to order us one on Flipkart, inviting us to choose from the wide selection online. In fact he got himself one as well! As he had predicted it arrived at The Nest three days later, (cash on delivery)  for us to pick up and pay the boys! Simply amazing! Sometime later we "went solo" and made another order using a mobile number of a friend and our stuff arrived a day earlier than stated! 

2. Optics

Since our second visit we have been having spectacles made in Chawdi - a 100 rupee rickshaw ride away. One needs to present a prescription. and then the many, many boxes of frames are brought out for trying, a cash deal done and the specs are ready within the week for a price Greyrocks believes to be around a third of UK  (and even less of the Canaries!) So here is some unsolicited publicity for the skillful optician and his efficient assistant! 




3. Boat Trips

Average of our party a little older!

Betty's Cruises out of Cavelossim: This is a highlight of every stay in Goa, and posts about it abound here! So, after failing to get a booking whilst Chloë was in Goa we arranged to in our final week as part of a party of seven! This time there was plenty of space on the boat. the big fish was a dorada and there were brand new bird reference books, We got further than last year inters of the dolphin-spotting at sea, bur still had to abandon that part due to the swell, and there were few fruit bats, but we had a wonderful few hours, and the meal was as good as ever. "Oh, those prawns!" Professional, good value and a good honest tourist trap!

4. Oh dear! Improving public behaviour

The English press has been featuring tourists' complaints about filth all around and citing this - and failure to do much about it - as one reason for the drop in tourist numbers and folks' intentions to go to competing "winter sun" countries. The reality is - of course - much more complex than that! (A Greyrocks mantra in these populist times!) Tourists who can't  deal with some level of the consequences of less development than chez eux shouldn't come, and things like single-use plastic are part of a global problem slow to fix. Dog poo is beyond the scope of legislation:- and they do send out hard-working beach cleaners, but there are a number of public health measures and irritants that just aren't addressed in any meaningful way. First is the smoking ban. This is supposed to be for everywhere public  along with spitting! we have never seen any police visits related to it, and of course the bar owners collude! We did hear of someone in our circle being fined in early season for smoking on the beach; and being handed notice that she could carry on for the rest of the day! Then there is drinking outside bar bounds! We have seen two instances of intervention over this - both of young Europeans at very quiet times of day outside peak tourist dates. In Benaulim we saw flagrant flaunting of rules on beach-selling, which there is a really pestering occurrence. and they can't enforce the safety helmets on motorbikes and scooters anywhere! Total inconsistency about it all, and a lack of consistency! What hope is there? The delights of baksheesh!

But we still love the place!

Palolem and Patnem - another North-South Divide

Noon - Jan 29th - Palolem - Wot no sunbeds?

Wednesday was strange! We visited The Nest for breakfast and Peter said to us "Hang onto that chair:- it will be like gold-dust later! There are no sunbeds on the beach today!" We moved to survey the scene - and it was true: as far as the eye could see -i.e.most of the bay - there was not one, nor chairs, nor unfixed parasols! There were a few tourists on towels, many, many sleeping beach dogs and groups of kayaks. We made a suggestion about combining the the latter two and judicious use of a power drill, but that was not universally popular! The details are patchy, but it seems to involve a visit by the Minister for Tourism. Why he should want to confuse and aggravate tourists in the middle of the season is beyond us, but it was serious. Removal of anything useful was supervised by a dozen police officers and some items were carted off by pick-up from one of the shacks!

We wandered off vaguely looking for the right spot to lurk and were hailed by N and T (as in Paleo, Benaulim and Macclesfield). We knew they were due to arrive soon after some days in Agonda. Up there sunbeds have been banished all season, so they didn't find anything odd about our situation, and the confirmation of the rumour about it scuppered any plans we had for a day trip! We saw them for two long afternoons - including that of 31st Jan, when they had spent the morning in Patnem and come across a bar filled entirely with Brits! A quote overheard there, apparently, was "I only celebrate Christmas, New Year and Brexit day" They left - as we would have done - and we mourned together the upcoming demise of Britain in Europe! !

But an interesting feature was that this is what they had encountered in Patnem! Greyrocks thinks of it as a much less rough and/or  British resort than Palolem! On our five trips this season we have felt the dominant tribes were middle-class (and generally quiet) British and young Israeli families. On the other hand we said as much to a couple who were off for a few days there and they came back saying there was nothing to do there, and they came back everyday to Palolem!

A case of "chacun à son goût "

Footnote: On the day in question Patnem also had no sunbeds!

"Love Boat" on Feb 14th!

Last Valentine's was marred by the only tummy bug of the entire stay and a Greyrocks celebratory meal at Dropadi was postponed. As plans emerged for the next "Office Outing" we realised we would be on board during the day of the upcoming 14th and unappreciative of a good meal on the evening that followed! So as we walked off for a lunchtime stroll down the beach a few days before we made an impromptu decision to go there then - in spite of Bob being bare-chested, and there being no special occasion. It was, as ever, a wonderful meal with good wine, attentive service and a lovely view!  The crab masala came served thus, so in paying the bill (expensive  for India) we declared it a Valentine substitute.

What did happen on the day itself was a near-annual day out on Betty's Boat Trip. Greyrocks has done this around six times - but not since 2015! The other four Office regulars were keen to repeat and back in Benaulim Nick and Theresa and friends were not averse, so we booked two taxis to transport us, Kay, John, Pat and Norway Dave (all veterans) up to Mobor for a 9.30 start. There we met and made introductions and three went upstairs on the boat and the rest of us made an impact on the lower deck! The nature of the trip and its amazing value has been described here before, but this TripAdvisor review does it well! .. except to say how lovely the prawns and then the fish are!! And the women were given a rose in recognition of the date!

We were disappointed that the silting of the river mouth, the tide and the wind meant we didn't get out to sea for dolphin spotting, and that the bird reference books weren't evident this time (nicked??) , but Nick had a very good one of his own, there were other twitchers amongst us and binoculars were supplied.  We were shown the fish to be cooked for us and it was not a kingfish. Our restaurateur fellow-traveller declared it to be a "reefer"; leading to a lot of silly remarks about smoking it! (The booze had already started flowing!) Even with only an average wildlife viewing the chugging down the river, the wonderful food and the sociability makes this a "must-do" for Greyrocks and friends, but if considering it have a look at this other perspective.

On the way back bets were made on who would fall asleep, but no-one did (even Ruth), and we adjourned to UTI for daiquiris and wine, followed by supper of a ten rupee packet of crisps.  Memories are made of such days!

A glorious win, a bit of a loss, and some near misses!

Last Thursday night Greyrocks was persuaded to participate in the very British-style quiz that is a regular in-season fixture at Royal Italy. We went a couple of times last year and were rubbish, but this time ...! Four of us from The Office invited two much younger folk to join us. It is not the best quiz we know (that has to be Mad Mik in Corralejo) and it does drag a bit, but makes a change. There has been talk of late of the over-frequent victories of one team, but  - thanks largely to a new-style round of "brain-teasers"-  we came joint First and then won a very tight tie-breaker! Much jubilation, and a share of INR 50 000 for each of us! The regular reader will spot that Thursday is a MoTh day! Here in Palolem we have been needing to swap this to Friday, as interesting things - such as this - keep being planned for Thursday!

Amazing what you can do with Photoshop!

The previous week, suspension happened because there was an "Office Outing"  to Galgibag. Peter and Maggie hired a scooter for the day and we other four crammed into a taxi. We met up at Santosh - previously described, and now with a glossy menu. Lobster was "off" so we chose a large and a smaller crab from those writhing in the basket, and ordered it Sukha style (a dressing dominated by fresh coconut) During the cooking we chose our own pursuits and Greyrocks went in search of the delights at the river mouth. The beach itself remains a near-deserted paradise (with dangerous swimming, apparently), but possibly not for long!

A bridge too far??

Our journey down had been very different from previously as a huge road project is under way. We passed over and under the emergent highway that will connect Mumbai to Kerala, and indeed were on it at some points. It is due to open in two (Indian) years , and will cut journey times to well under half. At the estuary the balance of water and dry land seemed different and we didn't find anything like the inspired creations of our last trip. See the slide show from 2014!   Then it was a long and messy afternoon in which several bottles of the better Sula white (the Chenin!) were consumed and participation in the Thursday Quiz that night became decreasingly likely!

So we continued the festivities at the unfortunately named UTI! This small catering concern had been located in the garden of the Guest House when we stayed there.and the food was very good. When we returned last tear we found it was in a small two-storey building on our doorstep. The food menu is a bit less ambitious, and the seating neither glamorous nor spacious, but the service.is great and the "Happy Hour" drinks were some of the best in town, (Especially the frozen strawberry Daiquiri at INR 140!) In the early days of our stay we were buying bottles of wine at "label" price, then - mirroring what had happened in Benaulim - the price went up to a good but "normal" price as supplies went down! The new board outside makes it clear, and that has to be seen as a loss - but understandable!

The "near misses" were over the weekend at The Nest, when on two mornings the coconut palms were pruned, and the fruit collected with all the characteristics of last season.in terms of laissez-faire!
Amongst our small circle of friends and acquaintances there were two cases of coconuts landing within centimetres. We remain unscathed!

Two silly things from Benaulim

Greyrocks is at the halfway point in the Goa stay, and a trawl of the memory and the camera reminds us of two  curiosities from that first week!

"BOB? .. Who the Hell is BOB?"

First day there and an ATM is vital! There had been none to be found at the airport, and we used up the few rupees we had on the taxi. There is a convenient one (Bank of Baroda), but after a lot of attempts it didn't want to play, so we set off to find alternatives. A second ATM was no better, but a money changer gave a good rate on cash Euros and said there was a third up the road. This did work! Later in the week it all became explained and resolved as it had been to do with our clever use of our new credit card. We told the story to Nick and he recognised it as an experience of their friend Bob -who had received a puzzling text from his provider telling him that BOB had declined it!! Bank of Baroda!

"No Problem with the island of Ireland, then!.. Nor with distancing North from South America!"

Knowing that ATMs are an issue in Palolem, and with only one functioning card between us we made a lot of visits whist in Beni. A very pleasant place to lurk as part of the pilgrimage is Yatra - a simple bar/restaurant that is particularly good for veggie things!

Over a lassi and a masala dosa Ruth saw the following lovingly painted on their wall!

Goan Places!

We hope you had one - if it is relevant - as it was over the weekend (26th January)
Greyrocks is currently- once again - for the seventh time -  in Palolem, South Goa! We have been down here for  a week and previously were in Benaulim, which is also in the South Goa region but nearer the airport. As the end of the month approaches it is time to document the journey here, the week in "Beni", and our first few days in "Pali" up to and including Republic Day.

Our route here was devised to avoid two places with which we have had bad experiences: Mumbai and London! So we set out on the afternoon Vueling flight to Barcelona. We were worried about inadequate clothing and indeed the early evening walk from terminal to shuttle stop was chilly; but  the minibus was waiting and everything for the overnight was easy.

Our outward route was two connecting Qatar Airways flights all the way to Dabolim in Goa with a few hours in Doha. (We would be returning differently, which was the cause of our only check-in hitch as a flight out of India must be documented and all we had to hand was an email message on the tablet!) This was followed by a ghastly experience at the e-passport contraption for Bob, and a rather long wait at the gate as the flight was delayed; but on-board we realised that Economy was only about one-fifth full, and Ruth had a line of three seats including a window, and Bob had an empty seat to his side. It was a good flight with decent food, and later some red wine could be solicited, but Bob was completely underwhelmed by the films. (Ruth watched the box set of Vanity Fair and was happy enough!) The route taken was the result of the Saudi ban on over-flying and- as can be seen - involved the length of the Med (over Crete!) and a series of the region's trouble spots.
Ruth had worked five long weeks in Qatar in 2006, and vowed never to return - but needs must, and the new Hamad Airport (how many Asian men died in its construction?) is worthy of a civilised country! We passed though Transfer security without encountering any Qatari men with attitude problems, and without being segregated by gender. So far, so good: the visitors to the (corruptly awarded) World Cup might not want to turn round and go home! But GBP 23 for two beers might change their mind!

In contrast the second flight was almost full, and felt cramped, but it worked, the red wine supply ran out and it landed on time; then "bliss and rapture" - no Immigration chaos. This alone takes the route to the top of the list over Mumbai options! The fingerprint thingy still didn't work for Ruth, but compassion was shown and we set about killing time to a more sound hour (this was 3 am local) and finding out what had happened that evening  in the UK parliament. Then - after a Whoop! we took a taxi anyway and were welcomed despite the hour and helped to a room just like last year's. We got to bed at 5 am.

Flying India's colours on Beni Beach

The week in Benaulim resembled that of last year -except that we were no longer "Greyrocks No Mates"! Back in Crete we had been introduced at the cantina to Nick and Theresa, and found quickly we were on the same wavelength. We had previously decided to do the Beni week again in 2019, and it all fitted with their regular long stay there.Thus after a day of recovery and a short paddle in the delicious sea, we met at their favoured shack, and were there most days at some time - often for a tasty light lunch! We always found sunbeds there - with space around them, and generally quiet neighbours! The sea entry is very easy. We also had dinner with them on two occasions at places we had not found last year and would probably not have done so this time without their advice! Both excellent and likely to feature on Ruth's trip Advisor list one day! The compare and contrast between Beni and Pali needs reference to last year's post, but in essence it is about the nature of the beach and hence the sense of space and scope for peace and quiet on it, the presence of a few more facilities because of the size of the town/village, and the "tribes" who take holidays there! According to Greyrocks there are three in Beni: retired Brit returners/long-stayers - fairly well-travelled and committed to the place, other (younger) Brits on packages who can ruin an evening in a restaurant, and Russian families who can also do so and show no respect for waiting staff! Palolem has plenty of the first (including Greyrocks of course), but very few of the second and third! We also have young back-packers from all over - bringing live music, and the Russians  that do come tend to be day-trippers and disappear in the evening. We enjoyed the week a lot and will repeat, but it was time to move on.

'Shame about the fuzziness - must be the Kingfisher!

The nice man at our accommodation booked a taxi for us at a great price and we travelled down in luxury. We installed ourselves in the same room as last year and little had changed there, except for two new eateries on the doorstep. (A review of "changes" will follow) We were soon down at The Office (Nest) meeting folk not seen in most cases since 2015)

So far this week we have been to three live music gigs and two films. Republic Day happened causing an upsurge in Indian groups in the sea, with the attendant lifeguard paranoia and whistling! On the day itself we went for a lunchtime walk and attempted a shortcut back to the beach from the main road. It worked but brought us out a long-established beach shack which was full of young men and a few women in matching tee-shirts. There was even a film crew! Over several Kingfishers we discovered this was the Bangalore Motorcycle Club at play. They were on their fourth "Ride to the Coast" - a ten hour trip of 600 kilometres. Now that's Goan Places!

"There's an awful lot of dried fish in Salcete" and Russians!

Our first week was based halfway down the South Goa coastline at Benaulim. There is general agreement that Palolem is the finest beach in Goa, but a stop on the way down gives access to a very different beach experience: that of the 30 kilometres of uninterrupted, wide and sandy shore that runs from near the airport to Mobor. There are some pockets of "tat" - Colva, Cavelossim,,,,, but between them are stretches that are almost deserted - even in peak season! We were about halfway in both distance and level of development!
This stay was also the first stage of of three in downgrading the accommodation. We couldn't stay where Bob had in 2015 and chose another mid-range place, then closer to departure date looked again at its spec and decided to go for a "Superior" room - for WiFi and space. as soon as we arrived we were delighted with the decision. The "resort" itself is surrounded with glorious well-maintained garden including many palms, and the best rooms are in an old colonial house and furnished with four-poster beds, modern plumbing and sumptuous drapery! Their gallery shows it well!
Breakfast is included and taken in the garden where often the company includes a colony of Indian palm squirrels:- athletic and vociferous! We eschewed the 7 am yoga sessions, but their existence sets the tone: tranquil and civilised! The location was also ideal!

Best turn over and do the other side!

It was  just outside the bustling centre of the village, with a huge choice of restaurants,a good selection of shops, and plenty of tuk-tuks if you didn't want to walk the busy way to the beach. But by walking in the opposite direction and taking a much quieter road there was "Trinity Beach":- considerably quieter but with an adequate selection of (less Russian-targeted) shacks and available sun-beds.
Along the road were surprised to see numerous single layers of carefully sorted sea-life in the road, and at dilapidated buildings many enormous fishing nets  - much larger than used by the simple boats at the local seashore, so we assume this is the home of workers in much more commercial concerns elsewhere.

We enjoyed our week a lot and were frequently in the sea, which was deliciously warm and not too rough. Cycling along the beach was an obvious thing to do, but Ruth began the week with a blister from wearing her expensive (Shrewsbury) shoes whilst transiting UK and ended it with that healed but nerves about the traffic on access roads! So it was extensive beach walking that registered well on the Fitbit!

Early on Greyrocks had "fun and games" over cash withdrawals. We needed to find the "right" ATM, as some will charge, but no-one publicises which! We can report that the first known entries to the Good List are Baroda and Canara, and there is one of the former in Benaulim, but on a Sunday afternoon it was out of money! Mr Google indicated that there was an ATM going south on the main road, so we took another long (less scenic) walk to find it. It was working, but not with our cards, and the cashier in the bank said that does sometimes happen! Hot and frustrated we hailed a local bus to take us back to Benaulim centre. It was completely full, and they ripped us of on price (30 rupees when it should be 16) - but the original ATM was now happy to deliver!

The final few days coincided with a strike of indeterminate length by taxi drivers. Our host explained the havoc this had caused for arriving and departing guests, but we had a private hire deal and were taken down to Palolem by a seaman who was keen to discuss ports we know! We had to take the inland route and there were some hold-ups but here we are, and tonight we hope to see the Super Blue Blood Moon!

Beach bums hit mumbling and bumbling in Mumbai!

What a clown!

Greyrocks is in Palolem, South Goa! We are wallowing in the laid-back lifestyle that successive knee operations have prevented for two seasons! To say we are glad to be here is to drastically  understate!
We are enjoying our fifth day here after a week in Benaulim (next post!); but first let's get the New Year stuff out of the way!
With little optimism about the coming year we drowned our sorrows on New Year's Eve with lobster and the like at Marquesina. We kept the pace slower even than was offered in order to be still there at midnight. Thus we acquired our cotillion including traditional grapes and some decent cava  with which to celebrate with complete strangers and some familiar waiters. Somehow we managed to miss the three sets of fireworks that allegedly happened but made it to The Rock a bit later. We returned there as usual for New Year's Day brunch in the sun, and cooked a mighty fine dinner of duck!

After the breakthrough with the bike on the penultimate day of 2017 Ruth aimed to use it for some light and safe practice each day, but en route to the gym one day the chain came off  and at one stage we were both without wheels, with one at each of the repair shops! Bob's wheel did not arrive from Tenerife in time for our departure so it sits chez nous in a sorry state until our return. Thus trips to the spa and other japes have been on foot or by cab. So. also, were some very tedious visits to the Health Centre where staff holidays and absence are causing some frustration, but not on the scale of UK!!

On January 5th we were enquiring about the awaited wheel when there was much tooting and loudspeaker music and two open top cars went past:- one with the Three Kings and one with their wives (it is usually pages!). This the sole impact of "Reyes"  on Greyrocks this time round and we were pleased to resume normality and prepare for fun our way!

Getting here to Goa from the Canaries was a bit of a trek! Door to door took forty hours of elapsed time, with two cars, three buses/coaches and three flights. We were travelling - as explained in a previous post - via Heathrow, so we began with a standard Easyjet flight to Gatwick. This was full and slightly delayed but went well and we were in good time for the booked coach to Heathrow. It was cold and dark and we had dressed - as best we could - for this. We were feeling quite pleased with our tight planning and headed up to Terminal 5 Departures, hoping to check-in with a nice real person, dump our bags, enjoy a pint of ale and travel light to the hotel. But the best-laid plans... No - in spite of what we had read online - we could not check in till the morning - let alone drop off baggage, and the land-side "pub" we have used so many times has closed permanently! We carted the bags back down to Arrivals. raided M&S for snacks and wine, and went outside (cold) to locate the Hoppa bus we needed. There it was at the stop, but Ruth got the name of the hotel wrong and it went off without us. A 30 minute wait! Still, it was a good choice of hotel and we did get some English draught beer (albeit unfortunately chilled!) in the bar and a good night's sleep.

Next morning things started to go well again! The BA flight was completely full in Economy. but we had chosen seats in advance. Neither the meals nor the in-flight entertainment were remarkable, but time passed, the crew were excellent and on a visit to the galley for a wine top-up Ruth was told some wonderful news! Our onward flight was to be with Jet,because on a previous trip she had her luggage sent separately to the domestic terminal. thus easing the whole transfer palaver. But the BA crew explained that Jet domestic flights now go from the flash new Terminal 2. Bliss and rapture!

Bob had not seen the new airport in all its glory with its works of art, wide corridors and beautiful carpet. We were last of the plane by design and ambled along aware of the hours we hd to kill. We had papers showing our e-visas had been granted. We got into the wrong queue, then found the right one, which was monstrous and barely moving. We soon saw what the problem is:- biometrics!!



The theory is that one (nationals of the majority of foreign countries) turns up with the e-visa, a digital facial image is captured, passport shown and fingerprints taken on a device. The visa is stamped into the passport and one proceeds to baggage reclaim etc. But....!! To exploit an Indian stereotype the machinery must have been commissioned from some politician's nephew who likes IT!! The fingerprint kit does not work! Each applicant was taking an age at their appointed desk, which was littered with discarded wipes used in numerous attempts to get an acceptable image from the pad! Ruth had also had a glimpse at other people's printout and they looked different so the tension was high! When we got to a desk Bob went first. There was no issue with the paperwork, the photo was taken and he speedily received the stamp. Ruth got through the hurdles up to the fingerprints. "Press harder". "Press less", wipe, wipe wipe, ... "Just two thumbs. then!". Recursive loop! Eventually she got through and got the stamp, but what of Bob - un-scarred by the finger thing? "Oh, Sir, you are over seventy - it is not necessary!" Ever since we have been wondering what logic lies behind the exemption. Answers on a postcard!

Meanwhile a plane load of French are around us lacking paperwork and with a tight connection! We heaved vast sighs of relief and proceeded to baggage reclaim. We still had hours and we didn't have to change terminals. What could go wrong?

Spacious, airy reclaim area - but no mention of our flight! We - and many others - had been stuck too long in Immigration! Finding the discarded bags was another nightmare, Customs X-ray was relatively organised (although there was a brawl somewhere!) and then we looked for Domestic Transfers :- chaos! No signage, melding and serpentine queues and luggage everywhere. People with minus ten minutes to their next flight! The belt had malfunctioned. Someone suggested Level 4 might be better, so off we went to find more of the same but with hope! Nice Jet women did something on a self-check-in thingy and all we had to do was drop the bags off! Half an hour later we were processed and could get cash from an expensive ATM and enjoy a beer (4 am local) in the new Domestic bit which has amongst other retail therapy outlets a Clarks Shoes and a Wagamama!

A Jet employee wandered round making frantic flight calls (as usual) far too early and the flight was late taking off, but they do feed you on Jet, the bags arrived at Dabolim and we were nearly there. The pre-paid taxi office used to be outside, so out we went to discover it was now inside and you can't go back in! So we had to use an unlicensed man who expected us to jump down an embankment to his vehicle! Somehow we made it by 7.30 am or so to our chosen oasis of calm and charm.

Whoever said "It is better to travel than to arrive" has not been though Mumbai!

The Cruelest Month

Greyrocks has never been very fond of January, but this one takes the biscuit! No smug travellers' tales this time and just a brief rundown on why we are somewhat hors de combat!
It started well enough with our New Years Eve meal at Caracoles. A description of the surprise menu was promised, so here it is:

A starter plate of fish terrine, mushroom feuillete and a shot of soup

Half a bogavente (large crayfish) with chanpagne sauce and wild rice

Fillet steak with tomato provencale and rosti

Crepe Suzette with two ice creams

Unusually Chloe was with us - see last post - and she enjoyed it though may have over-indulged. Fireworks from several hotels were very good this year - although our nearest one had a mishap which resulted in the calling-out of the bomberos and police! New Years Day was gentle and involved the Blue Rock and a festive meal chez nous, and then we got on with business, sorting out C's documentation issues and preparing for Goa, but in parallel  there was worrying news from Hampshire, UK about Ruth's mother's health. This isn't the place for a medical bulletin:- suffice to say she was advised to go to hospital and refused, so was needing a lot of support, as was Ruth's 90 year-old Dad.

The eve of Kings (5th) was a bright day so we all went down to the ferry port to see the arrival of Their Majesties. This was - as they say - the same as every year and we sat in the cafeteria and watched it all transpire, then rode up to Mas Que Nada for tapas lunch. We were out again in the evening to see the procession (camels and all) from our traditional vantage point of the American Burger joint (Chicken George). It was traditionally very late arriving, but went down well with all, as did the fillet steak kebabs to which we introduced Chloe! Next day being a Bank Holiday in Spain, and her last day we had some plans, but everything changed when we heard that Ruth's Mum had had a bad fall and was now in hospital in Portsmouth.

So... All Change! C left as planned ready to move to Bristol and then start her new job in Bath on the Monday. Greyrocks started a week-long process of weighing up flights, needs explained by sisters and changing prognoses before deciding that Goa would not be a goer in the first instance for Ruth. We got a partial refund on the ticket and left together on Friday 16th:- Ruth for Gatwick and Bob for Barcelona and Goa via Doha (Qatar). (This latter route had been chosen to avoid both UK and inter-terminal indignities at Mumbai.)

And that is how the rest of the month has been. Bob (nursing a cough and cold) had an experimental week in Benaulim before moving down to good old Palolem, where we had booked into the slightly up-market Guest House. He is enjoying time around The Office with most of the "staff" present - except John and Tracey who are in Greyrocks' Fuerteventura home! He reports that all is much the same, but tourism is as much as 40pc down. (If that's the rude Russians that are missing it's spacibo to Mr Putin!)

Meanwhile Ruth is living in the family home and cooking and housekeeping for her father, with daily visits to her mother in hospital. She has borrowed warm clothes, which are distinctly necessary with some remarkably cold weather, and this morning: SNOW! Goa garments are in the wheelie bag and if things stabilise Ruth will be off like a shot for some curtailed Goan delights!

And thus we finish January. Things can only get better!

Goa again - seeking sosegado for Week 1

They're 'avin a larf!

Greyrocks is still in Goa and still somewhat bereft of Internet speed! Still – as the Greeks say - “Siga siga!” and as the Goans describe it we are seeking  a state of sosegado. 

 We had a textbook journey over here: Fuerte-Gatwick-Heathrow hotel-Mumbai-early hours domestic terminal-Goa Dabolim airport- taxi- Cavelossim/Mobor hotel. Following last year’s failure to find viable bicycles for beach rides ( a splendid feature of the shore here), and some sordid aspects of the accommodation we researched from home and came up with the resort next door to it, which was nearly as cheap and very variously reviewed. You win some – you lose some! We e-mailed ahead that we would be very early and on arrival they showed us to an apartment much bigger than we had booked. It smelled of damp, had no exterior light on the balcony, looked out over a building being casually renovated, and half the switches didn’t work. Also our “boy” pestered us regularly about cleaning and one occasion called before 8am. It was, however, clean and superbly located between beach and river, close to the range of Goa-upmarket restaurants. There is a lengthy tale to be told of the breakfast arrangements, but this can be consigned to Tripadvisor. We were being philosophical about the shortcomings until it came to hiring the bikes (this being one of the reasons for choosing the place!). We had seen a dozen spanking bikes parked up and eventually found someone to rent them. Ruth tried one. It needed adjustment. This was not possible. Bob eventually found one he could use (but only in one of the 18 gears), and Ruth took an extortionate taxi ride down to The Blue Whale at the mouth of the river for an idyllic day. In the afternoon R walked back and B did the beach ride. Lovely! Next day we would go North on the same basis, or so we thought! Ruth settled in to kill time until going for a bus to Benaulim. An hour and a half later Bob comes back bikeless and seething. There was only one working bicycle in the entire set displayed and that had been taken from under his nose by another tourist. No tools existed for any repair or maintenance, and he had had to issue threats to get his money back. Grrr!

Remember ".. Marigold Hotel?"

So we both took the bus! A trip of about 30 minutes at 15INR each (about 15 pence GB!). It was Greyrocks' first serious ride on an Indian bus, and the memory of Maggie Smith and Bill Nighy remains. There were two other passengers when we got on :- they were blonde hippie-types who proffered a 100 rupee note which couldn't be changed. They were let off for a few odd coins and some sweets! All human life was here and people were very helpful about where we should get off. The Greyrocks hair is probably responsible for the respect shown.

We liked the look of Benaulim. It is on the same wide flat expanse of beach as Cavelossim, but with a much more relaxed (and - not unrelated - less Russian) vibe. We didn't make it into the sea (a bit frisky!) but we found a mellow shack for lunch and drinks, where we asked about the practicalities of staying in the village (and hiring bicycles!) before taking a 50INR tuk-tuk back to the bus stop and returning to Cavelossim.

Finished at last.. but is it open?

"Bill, please!"

Betty's prawns masala on dry land!

Whilst still there we took Betty's River Cruise again. Thee was a party of four Brits on board who stay every year at the Holiday Inn, Mobor and in each week do the trip twice, so we were relatively inexperienced at twice previous! Unfortunately this was not the best for fauna sights! No dolphins spotted despite a very long and wide ranging sea tour, no bats and nothing very special on the avian front! What we did see was the new bridge across the Sal! We asked if it was open yet, as we would be needing to cross it on the Friday. We were told it was only open to two-wheeled traffic as the approach roads were not yet adequate; but that it was due to open to all on the Saturday. (See the next post for the follow-up on that!) The lunch (as anticipated) was wonderful and the drinks ran free. The Brits told us where we could get the same Betty's prawns on the beach, so next day (our last) we took the bus to the Leela (one of India's most exclusive hotels) and walked back to the appointed spot. A delight - but we were ready to move South and more mellow.

Bollywood Night and Goan Soft!

This post is being composed during a spot of Vasco de Gama´s Revenge during which Ruth dare not stray too far from civilised sanitation! We are having a month in Goa and have been here a week. The last two occasions have seemed a bit like freebies (apart from return UK flights, return domestic flights, insurance, visas and vaccinations, of course!) as we started depleting the Sainsbury/Tesco Airmiles, but now they have all been turned into Avios and are barely worth the paper they are not written on, and the London-Mumbai flights were going to cost so much in uncovered elements that we could have spent as much on the whole flights with an airline other than BA and saved the Avios for something else. (Like what?) However after due cursing of Tesco for doing this, shared sentiments about getting on a bit, and Bob´s expressed desire to work his way through BA´s in-flight movies and wine selection we bit the bullet and booked the same route again with a pathetic subsidy from Avios.

Our outward journey went like clockwork, starting with the usual cattle-herding of Ryanair, then smooth exit at Stansted with time for some Greene King (first beer for 3 months for R!), fast coach to Terminal 5 where once again we got a member of staff to check us in, food and bev goodies from M and S and a shuttle to Premier Inn. The last represents a gesture of economy over previous Heathrow hotels but was very good indeed! The Mumbai flight was half-full, entertainment good on Films, too US-based on TV, food uninspiring and we landed early. The new terminal is not quite finished so there was bussing and then potentially queuing, but we played the Senior Citizen card and jumped to the front. We topped up with Duty Free French wine to the maximum and proceeded to the domestic terminal in the only way possible which makes Ryanair look like The Ritz! And then a funny thing happened!

1.30 am or so February 5^{th :} In Mumbai Domestic Terminal Father Christmas is sitting patiently waiting and occasionally ringing his bell! Around him there are many young and giggling people with no luggage, some people looking uncomfortable in faux airline uniforms, and some men doing some lighting rigging. Santa engages us in conversation about the Women´s Cricket World Cup and the joys of East Sussex. People with clipboards arrive, some seats are moved, girls are given new tops to put on and a Christmas tree is brought in. We hold our ground! We know seats are precious in these hours until check-in desks open at 3.30, and now new arrivals are being directed by the police away from the area. We are told that we are OK where we are, but later we are politely asked to move because filming is about to begin. R says there is nowhere to sit and she needs a chair. “OK then, but please keep your head turned away from the camera!”

And so it was that she found herself in a Bollywood Movie!

The excitement and embarrassment became too much and we moved through to the quieter bit and so had our first Kingfisher by 3.45am, domestic flight  left early, we got a taxi at Dabolim  and were swiftly in Cavelossim, desperately searching for our hotel!

Last year we had two occasions to visit this area:- Betty´s Cruise with The Office when we were intrigued by the River Sal´s mouth, and the trip to meet Ken and Kate (Paleo) who stay regularly just to the north, during which we loved the long quiet stretch of beach. So this year we planned ten days based in Cavelossim. We booked through UK based Sunshine Holidays who have always served us well for cheap and cheerful. We had a voucher, a name for the property, a mental map, a (non-functioning) mobile contact and a vague image of the site from their website. After a lot of U-turns and shaken heads we eventually tried a place that had the name Luisa by the Sea over it. This was right! There is obviously some story as to why this two-pool complex of one-time lavish privately-owned bungalows and a few rooms changed its name but doesn´t publicise the new one. Anyway it is perfectly located for both beach and restaurants, and we have a large airy room with a big private balcony and a view of the main Mobor road and (just) the sea. Fellow guests are Russian and Russian, with the odd bit of English from folk who may still own one of the villas.

(Bob has been waiting for the moment to shout "Pussy Riot good  - Putin bad!")

Mission accomplished in terms of exploring said river and long expanse of beach! We rode bikes beside the river to the final bit of beach at Mobor and spent the day at the Blue Whale. We were delighted with it all, and even quite liked the dogs sheltering under the sunbeds, but by mid-afternoon it was unbearable in terms of dogs fighting and chasing. We rode back along the beach – which is a wonderful experience. (Update:- As R languished Bob rode an even worse bicycle all the way up the beach to Benaulim and back!)

Yesterday we did Betty´s cruise again, sitting alongside a party which surreptitiously scattered ashes and flowers out at sea. Just as good as last time except for absence of Office friends, and we saw a good lot of both dolphins and birds (including Brahminy kites, an osprey, cormorants and bee-eaters. We also met a very nice Aussie couple of silver  travellers and picked up some tips, and a Geordie who was attracted by Bob´s Cropredy T - shirt.

Brahminy Kite

We will soon be off to Palolem. We overheard Brit tourists bad-mouthing it after a visit. We, however, are looking forward to the differences – a case of chacun a son gout! The beach here is striking by its sheer length, but it is not as sheltered as the bay at P. and was a bit frightening in the waves at times. There are plenty of good restaurants with all the trappings of European service and décor, and there as many dentists, night time fireworks, botox merchants and punters, jewellers and opticians as one could wish for! Second only to the Russians for numbers are British elderly couples, many of whom seem to have been nowhere else and love it. Not many good bicycles for hire here.

Nor have we seen here:

• beach huts for rent
• cattle and pigs on the road (let alone in restaurants)
• dreadlocks
• backpackers
• muesli on the menu
• toddy-tappers
• tuk-tuks in any quantity.
• open air cinema
• "pond-life" Brits

We can´t wait!