"There's an awful lot of dried fish in Salcete" and Russians!

Our first week was based halfway down the South Goa coastline at Benaulim. There is general agreement that Palolem is the finest beach in Goa, but a stop on the way down gives access to a very different beach experience: that of the 30 kilometres of uninterrupted, wide and sandy shore that runs from near the airport to Mobor. There are some pockets of "tat" - Colva, Cavelossim,,,,, but between them are stretches that are almost deserted - even in peak season! We were about halfway in both distance and level of development!
This stay was also the first stage of of three in downgrading the accommodation. We couldn't stay where Bob had in 2015 and chose another mid-range place, then closer to departure date looked again at its spec and decided to go for a "Superior" room - for WiFi and space. as soon as we arrived we were delighted with the decision. The "resort" itself is surrounded with glorious well-maintained garden including many palms, and the best rooms are in an old colonial house and furnished with four-poster beds, modern plumbing and sumptuous drapery! Their gallery shows it well!
Breakfast is included and taken in the garden where often the company includes a colony of Indian palm squirrels:- athletic and vociferous! We eschewed the 7 am yoga sessions, but their existence sets the tone: tranquil and civilised! The location was also ideal!

Best turn over and do the other side!

It was  just outside the bustling centre of the village, with a huge choice of restaurants,a good selection of shops, and plenty of tuk-tuks if you didn't want to walk the busy way to the beach. But by walking in the opposite direction and taking a much quieter road there was "Trinity Beach":- considerably quieter but with an adequate selection of (less Russian-targeted) shacks and available sun-beds.
Along the road were surprised to see numerous single layers of carefully sorted sea-life in the road, and at dilapidated buildings many enormous fishing nets  - much larger than used by the simple boats at the local seashore, so we assume this is the home of workers in much more commercial concerns elsewhere.

We enjoyed our week a lot and were frequently in the sea, which was deliciously warm and not too rough. Cycling along the beach was an obvious thing to do, but Ruth began the week with a blister from wearing her expensive (Shrewsbury) shoes whilst transiting UK and ended it with that healed but nerves about the traffic on access roads! So it was extensive beach walking that registered well on the Fitbit!

Early on Greyrocks had "fun and games" over cash withdrawals. We needed to find the "right" ATM, as some will charge, but no-one publicises which! We can report that the first known entries to the Good List are Baroda and Canara, and there is one of the former in Benaulim, but on a Sunday afternoon it was out of money! Mr Google indicated that there was an ATM going south on the main road, so we took another long (less scenic) walk to find it. It was working, but not with our cards, and the cashier in the bank said that does sometimes happen! Hot and frustrated we hailed a local bus to take us back to Benaulim centre. It was completely full, and they ripped us of on price (30 rupees when it should be 16) - but the original ATM was now happy to deliver!

The final few days coincided with a strike of indeterminate length by taxi drivers. Our host explained the havoc this had caused for arriving and departing guests, but we had a private hire deal and were taken down to Palolem by a seaman who was keen to discuss ports we know! We had to take the inland route and there were some hold-ups but here we are, and tonight we hope to see the Super Blue Blood Moon!

Beach bums hit mumbling and bumbling in Mumbai!

What a clown!

Greyrocks is in Palolem, South Goa! We are wallowing in the laid-back lifestyle that successive knee operations have prevented for two seasons! To say we are glad to be here is to drastically  understate!
We are enjoying our fifth day here after a week in Benaulim (next post!); but first let's get the New Year stuff out of the way!
With little optimism about the coming year we drowned our sorrows on New Year's Eve with lobster and the like at Marquesina. We kept the pace slower even than was offered in order to be still there at midnight. Thus we acquired our cotillion including traditional grapes and some decent cava  with which to celebrate with complete strangers and some familiar waiters. Somehow we managed to miss the three sets of fireworks that allegedly happened but made it to The Rock a bit later. We returned there as usual for New Year's Day brunch in the sun, and cooked a mighty fine dinner of duck!

After the breakthrough with the bike on the penultimate day of 2017 Ruth aimed to use it for some light and safe practice each day, but en route to the gym one day the chain came off  and at one stage we were both without wheels, with one at each of the repair shops! Bob's wheel did not arrive from Tenerife in time for our departure so it sits chez nous in a sorry state until our return. Thus trips to the spa and other japes have been on foot or by cab. So. also, were some very tedious visits to the Health Centre where staff holidays and absence are causing some frustration, but not on the scale of UK!!

On January 5th we were enquiring about the awaited wheel when there was much tooting and loudspeaker music and two open top cars went past:- one with the Three Kings and one with their wives (it is usually pages!). This the sole impact of "Reyes"  on Greyrocks this time round and we were pleased to resume normality and prepare for fun our way!

Getting here to Goa from the Canaries was a bit of a trek! Door to door took forty hours of elapsed time, with two cars, three buses/coaches and three flights. We were travelling - as explained in a previous post - via Heathrow, so we began with a standard Easyjet flight to Gatwick. This was full and slightly delayed but went well and we were in good time for the booked coach to Heathrow. It was cold and dark and we had dressed - as best we could - for this. We were feeling quite pleased with our tight planning and headed up to Terminal 5 Departures, hoping to check-in with a nice real person, dump our bags, enjoy a pint of ale and travel light to the hotel. But the best-laid plans... No - in spite of what we had read online - we could not check in till the morning - let alone drop off baggage, and the land-side "pub" we have used so many times has closed permanently! We carted the bags back down to Arrivals. raided M&S for snacks and wine, and went outside (cold) to locate the Hoppa bus we needed. There it was at the stop, but Ruth got the name of the hotel wrong and it went off without us. A 30 minute wait! Still, it was a good choice of hotel and we did get some English draught beer (albeit unfortunately chilled!) in the bar and a good night's sleep.

Next morning things started to go well again! The BA flight was completely full in Economy. but we had chosen seats in advance. Neither the meals nor the in-flight entertainment were remarkable, but time passed, the crew were excellent and on a visit to the galley for a wine top-up Ruth was told some wonderful news! Our onward flight was to be with Jet,because on a previous trip she had her luggage sent separately to the domestic terminal. thus easing the whole transfer palaver. But the BA crew explained that Jet domestic flights now go from the flash new Terminal 2. Bliss and rapture!

Bob had not seen the new airport in all its glory with its works of art, wide corridors and beautiful carpet. We were last of the plane by design and ambled along aware of the hours we hd to kill. We had papers showing our e-visas had been granted. We got into the wrong queue, then found the right one, which was monstrous and barely moving. We soon saw what the problem is:- biometrics!!



The theory is that one (nationals of the majority of foreign countries) turns up with the e-visa, a digital facial image is captured, passport shown and fingerprints taken on a device. The visa is stamped into the passport and one proceeds to baggage reclaim etc. But....!! To exploit an Indian stereotype the machinery must have been commissioned from some politician's nephew who likes IT!! The fingerprint kit does not work! Each applicant was taking an age at their appointed desk, which was littered with discarded wipes used in numerous attempts to get an acceptable image from the pad! Ruth had also had a glimpse at other people's printout and they looked different so the tension was high! When we got to a desk Bob went first. There was no issue with the paperwork, the photo was taken and he speedily received the stamp. Ruth got through the hurdles up to the fingerprints. "Press harder". "Press less", wipe, wipe wipe, ... "Just two thumbs. then!". Recursive loop! Eventually she got through and got the stamp, but what of Bob - un-scarred by the finger thing? "Oh, Sir, you are over seventy - it is not necessary!" Ever since we have been wondering what logic lies behind the exemption. Answers on a postcard!

Meanwhile a plane load of French are around us lacking paperwork and with a tight connection! We heaved vast sighs of relief and proceeded to baggage reclaim. We still had hours and we didn't have to change terminals. What could go wrong?

Spacious, airy reclaim area - but no mention of our flight! We - and many others - had been stuck too long in Immigration! Finding the discarded bags was another nightmare, Customs X-ray was relatively organised (although there was a brawl somewhere!) and then we looked for Domestic Transfers :- chaos! No signage, melding and serpentine queues and luggage everywhere. People with minus ten minutes to their next flight! The belt had malfunctioned. Someone suggested Level 4 might be better, so off we went to find more of the same but with hope! Nice Jet women did something on a self-check-in thingy and all we had to do was drop the bags off! Half an hour later we were processed and could get cash from an expensive ATM and enjoy a beer (4 am local) in the new Domestic bit which has amongst other retail therapy outlets a Clarks Shoes and a Wagamama!

A Jet employee wandered round making frantic flight calls (as usual) far too early and the flight was late taking off, but they do feed you on Jet, the bags arrived at Dabolim and we were nearly there. The pre-paid taxi office used to be outside, so out we went to discover it was now inside and you can't go back in! So we had to use an unlicensed man who expected us to jump down an embankment to his vehicle! Somehow we made it by 7.30 am or so to our chosen oasis of calm and charm.

Whoever said "It is better to travel than to arrive" has not been though Mumbai!

"Won't Back Down" and "Reelin in the Years"- 2017 - our way!

As 2017 comes to an end here is Greyrocks' esoteric take on it:

• The Personal

A year with neither operations nor parental decline and death made a change! We have been pleased to help Chloë and Jack with improvements to the little house and its garden, and with arrangements for the wedding. Our times in Fuerteventura have seen a less active social life:- owing as much to our "remoaner" status being at variance with the prevailing culture as to health/mobility issues and colder evenings! On the other hand our love of Montpellier has deepened and Paleo was also a largely very happy time - even if the weather pattern seems to have taken a downturn! We have even -surprisingly - enjoyed the UK, with a well-judged tour round friends and family and the two quick dashes: the wonderful - but deeply uncomfortable - Cropredy festival, and the Shrewsbury wedding. Other trips - such as Cabo Verde and Gran Canaria - have also kept us busy - as much in the planning as in the implementation!

• The Political

It has been another "head in hands" year for liberals, internationalists and socialists. The themes bemoaned in last years's Greyrocks review have trundled on - and in several cases got worse! In the UK one of very few cheering events was the near-humiliation of the Tories in June. Reading John Crace and seeing the cartoons of Steve Bell etc in The Guardian have given us something to laugh about as the nation plummets. We mark also the Grenfell Fire and the disgraceful responses thereto!

Internationally we were deeply moved by Banksy's Alternativity in Bethlehem, as Palestine continues to cause much angst in the Greyrocks household, and the fate of the Rohingya people is added to the list, whilst the demise of ISIS/Daesh - on the military front at least - is some comfort!

(Our gifts from Chloë and Jack were the "tea-towel" displayed above and two passport covers declaring that we are Forever European - Greyrocks is an open book to them!)

• Losses in Rock

It wasn't as "bad" a year as 2016; but Greyrocks was touched by the following deaths:

Tom Petty, Gregg Allman and Chuck Berry, along with J Geils -( one hit wonder "Centerfold"), Malcolm Young of AC-DC, Glenn Campbell and  Walter Becker of Steely Dan

• Losses in Stage and Screen

And a swarm of white men on the UK thespian front has left the stage to our sadness:

Roger Moore, Keith Barron, Tim Pigott-Smith, Robert Hardy, Rodney Bewes, Gordon Kaye and Tony Booth

Dear old Barry Norman, whose film crits were a mainstay of our active years, and Colin Dexter, whose Morse books and derivatives continue to delight us on ITV3 also will be missed!

Let us all hope it turns out better than it threatens! "Salud!"

Rejoice, rejoice - for she is riding!

No sooner was the last post published  - with its bemoaning of continuing problems on the knee front -  than Greyrocks can say:

"Hallelujah - she has made it!"

There is no clear reason why - today - after 13.5 months  -the left foot could catch the pedal and Ruth could sit on the saddle and get going! Was it the surgeon's suggestion of repeated regular sessions on the gym's static bike? Was it strengthening the thigh muscles with the two machines at the gym? Was it the balancing exercises with Anna and Tania? Was it just all ever in the head? 

It no longer matters:- off she went down the promenade, as if there had never been an issue!

The irony is that Bob has had to follow on foot, as his bike suddenly seized up earlier this week and he needs a new wheel which is on its way from Tenerife! 

Never mind! Celebrations started early in our household!

Recycling, but not cycling, pushing the boat out and a whale of a time

As octopuses watched their squids by night!

Returning to the island at the beginning of December we were greeted by the towns offering for the festive season - which begins with the "bridge" of 6th-8th. It is certainly "different" - consisting as it does of allegedly recycled beach debris. A designer was paid a goodly sum for this concept! There was speculation about the potential to survive our famous wind, but so far Greyrocks has seen no casualties. "More the pity" some might say!

The campaign to get Ruth back on the bike has dragged on through the month Her Slovenian physio became convinced that it is a balance issue and so there were new exercises for that and then one day Ruth was taken through to the proper gym and put on a spinning bike, which she managed well. The day came for the visit to the surgeon - now so popular that appointments are made months in advance. He was delighted with the X-rays, fairly happy with the flexing, and bemused by the cycling problem, He diagnosed very frequent exercise on the static bike, so that has been the regime with a month's subscription to the gym.

After the appointment in the capital we had lunch at El Bounty and then took a cab to Lidl on our annual tame goose chase. This time round the freezer had been raided before our visit (Germans like goose apparently!) so we came away with just a pair of goose breasts, which would be fine for the feast itself, but nothing beyond. Then we saw whole Canadian lobsters and couldn't resist so they went into the insulated bag with a cheap real French champagne and the goose, and we began the tedious homeward bus journey. Fortunately it was not too sunny and the bounty remained frozen!

A Cuvier's beaked whale in El Cotillo

Ruth spent three weeks without any booze and on a diet (5 kg lost!) with the prospect of nice things from Christmas Eve onward. Much temptation had to be endured, not least when we went on a bus trip to El Cotillo. This was a delightful day with a lot of sunshine and it was a very welcome pleasure for Ruth to be able to walk without pain, which had not been the case on numerous previous trips! We therefore got to see this fairly recent addition:- a real whale skeleton that is on the "Whale Trail" round the island.

The 24th December target was not quite achieved. The wagon was abandoned on 23rd when we went to Galera beach and excellent rock was being played in the afternoon sunshine, but a noble effort and then the goose was cooked for the Christmas Eve dinner for two! It has been slightly odd not hosting Chloë for either Xmas or New Year for the first time ever, but we have made the best of it, and there is more to come!

Surprise, surprise!

"Seen it all before!"

There followed three calmer weeks, during which not much happened, other than Ruth trying to recover from the plane-inflicted cold and get somewhere with the bike!  There was not much progress with either:- bronchitis eventually set in and despite three sessions a week at the Sports Clinic and growing knee flexibility the mounting into the saddle just wouldn't happen! In contrast the weather was wonderful and we did a lot of walking, and we did a lot of travel planning, including setting up the Goa trip for Jan/Feb. This is to be via London and Mumbai:- two places we would rather avoid, but the Qatar option seems dodgy at present and Greyrocks has accumulated a large number of Avios:- one of the most useless loyalty schemes around - and they can be used (expensively) on BA flights, so they have been! This led to the saga of Indian visas! The good news is that these are now available on-line for 60 days and are very, very much cheaper than before with Madrid involved. It is not, however, an easy process with photos and scans to be uploaded to strict guidelines, peculiar questions and complicated payment. By the time you have struggled with this you need a holiday!

But we succeeded and had the acceptance back sooner than suggested, so we could get on with preparation for the rather simpler trip:- Bob's birthday in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.  The hotel we wanted was full for some related dates, so we tinkered and got three acceptable nights, then went to the new Inter-Island airline - Canaryfly - and got return flights at an absurdly low residents' price You couldn't say no!

That can't be right! Well, maybe!

And we had a great time with several surprises!
First was the weather! It had been pretty nice in Fuerte - except for chilly evenings and nights - but Gran Can prospects were looking a bit dodgy! In fact the forecast was revised several times, and we had three days that were amongst the best Greyrocks recalls on the island. There were a dozen spots of rain but otherwise the beach (Las Canteras) was well-populated and there were plenty in the sea:- including many surfers without wet-suits! But we weren't there for that sort of thing!!

We wanted a bit of culture, so took the bus down to San Telmo (the older part of this city of two parts) and went to CAAM, not knowing quite what to expect. The Centro Atlantico de Arte Moderno is in a historic building near the cathedral, but inside is a large light-drenched space, and it is free to enter! Greyrocks concentrated on the seasonal exhibition "Interference" by Canarias-born Concha Jerez. (If you Google translate beware - it assumes she is male!) We spent an age going round the installations - many of which were accessible in spite of language and hit many Greyrocks spots: dealing with human rights, women's history, and the media.

 This was- despite the depressing world events portrayed -  an uplifting experience for Greyrocks as we have been feeling a lack of soulmates in Fuerteventura! In addition to much-exhibited works Concha has some Canaries-related installations, the most intense of which tells the story of La Sima de Jinámar, (page 12) where Franco-supporters threw leftists dead or alive - over many years! Victims included some of her family. As in the rest of Spain the Canaries is still coming to terms with events of the Civil War.

We walked a great deal around the city, and also made good use of the new style  "bono"  card for urban buses, which takes the prie down to 80 cents per ride! We visited the Vegueta market, Triana shopping street, El Corte Ingles department store on Black Thursday, La Isleta area near the port, and located for future use the cinema where films are shown in V.O. The full (long) extent of the promenade of Las Canteras beach was walked many times, and amongst the stops was a branch of 100 Montaditas on a Wednesday when each little filled roll is just 1 euro! Several nice surprises there!

We also had good dinners as planned, but had trouble finding any lobster for Bob's birthday, and needed to do some learning about lobsters. The obvious translation into Spanish is langosta but that refers to the spiny sort. The one found locally is a bogavante, which is what we eventually sourced - thanks to Trip Advisor - in a very popular but small and simple restaurant close to the beach, We shared one and the claws were indeed, particularly lovely!

With time to kill on the last day we found it had rained overnight and it was dull! Never mind we walked around the ferry and cruise port and came across two Belens. As most visits to GC have been near Christmas we are used to seeing these public nativity scenes, but this year we were impressed. On the beach construction of vast pyramids was under way, and in the shopping centre was  a very traditional one with lovingly produced (and historically bizarre) figues some of which are mechanised!

We flew back that afternoon taking with us a re-emergence of Ruth's bronchitis. A nasty surprise!

The Other Wedding

When Greyrocks told folk we were off for a wedding some suggested it was that of Chloë and Jack. No such simplicity chez nous - theirs has developed to have four events at least and straddle six months!!

No- this was the long-awaited splicing of Sam and Catherine! We were honoured to be invited - along with Gaby, Charlie and Eva - to join them and Eoin (best man) and Julia for their celebration in Shrewsbury. We would form the YiaYiaGaGa team representing Paleochora, where the couple have spent many, many holidays! Out of mothballs came Bob's only (never-worn) summer suit plus accoutrements and Ruth's "funeral dress" to which a new lace jacket would be added if it arrived chez Chloë. Greyrocks is known in all its domains for its lack of interest in sartorial elegance, ("Dress like camel herders!") To this add Ruth's difficult feet and you have a shoe crisis. She threw in a pair of black mules that had been in a basket for more than a decade and off we went on a another tightly-planned trip. We started with a remarkably pleasant Easyjet flight to Bristol. It was the first time we had landed there and we were charmed by the approach on this clear day! We saw as far as the South Wales coast and well down into Devon, then the various bridges and rivers, Fascinating!

Excuse for a pizza party!

However, it's not the easiest airport to traverse and leave! When we eventually got out we walked straight onto a bus that took us to Temple Meads Station and the hotel was across the road! Dead easy! The plan was to use this evening for the Grand Opening of the re-modelled backyard at Chloë and Jack's house. It still needed planting, upholstery and an anticipated mural, but the outcome of some brilliant design - taking account of strange levels after part-demolition of the garage - and meticulous work by Mark and Matt - was very impressive. Family members Clare, Nigel  (electrician to the project) and children came along for the evening, but only Janet from the in-law side, In view of the mid-week and numbers we had suggested some delivery pizzas and Prosecco, We took the train for a couple of stops and were confused by the station exits.  As we dithered at a road junction there was furious ringing and we saw a cyclist zooming down the road on an impressive bike - with helmet and serious warm gilet! It was Greyrock's offspring! So we went to the pub to catch up, and Jack joined us, then went to get the pizzas from a local outlet. We had a jolly - but chilly - evening, collected various delivered items, chewed the fat over wedding arrangements with Janet, had various other interchanges and got an Uber cab back to the hotel! Short but sweet, and the backyard is wonderful!

"About time, too!"

Next morning it was raining as we took breakfast! We had ahead a few hours of cheap rail travel, First it was a slow and tatty GWR train as far as Newport (South Wales) passing through the Severn Tunnel. The trip was blighted by a woman insisting on sharing with the entire carriage the details of her prison visit! As the next train approached at Newport we realised there was a problem:- short train, too many passengers! Thanks to an earlier cancellation this was a fairly unpleasant run in terms of comfort, but stunning for scenery, and once descended the sins of the operator were forgotten!  We went for a recuperative pint in the pub nearest to the station, walked through the drizzle to the hotel, and found a welcoming committee! Most of the gang was already there in the lounge with real ale (and Eva turned up soon after!) At some point we handed over the mastica from Chios, which we had ordered for delivery to Bristol, and has a history with Catherine - in particular -

A weekend of jollity ensued!  A large party went for dinner that night; and we were all on parade next day for the Main Event. This was all centred on The Lion Hotel.  The bride entered accompanied by her lovely Mum, and looking beautiful in the bargain gown and with local English garden flowers, There are good pictures around and a link might be made in time, but this is your lot for now. On the way into the formal part Ruth's shoe collapsed - (victim of neglect and too much hot sun!) Later in the day Bob went on a rescue mission and the cobbler did his (no charge) best, but the only destination was the bin, and a new pair was bought next day! After the ceremony there was a very nice and slow lunch culminating in baklavas for the Greek theme, speeches and then a break and the evening with added guests, a good disco and a late night! Bob's change of gear during the recess caused a lot of amusement. He dumped the suit and tie in favour of shorts, sandals, Hawaiian shirt and sun-hat!! At some point the DJ announced there was a request for the Paleochora contingent and we made a reasonable attempt at Zorba's sirtaki!

The deed was now done but we were all in Shrewsbury for another day or so. Bob had an optician's appointment and Ruth needed shoes (!) so we strolled around the town and met up with the rest (including S African chapter) for dinner, Afterwards there was a farce getting beck into the hotel and securing a nightcap! On Sunday Greyrocks said farewell to Gaby and Charlie, checked out and walked around a bit of the river bank to say hello to Eoin and Julia in their little cottage , This turned into a champagne-fuelled long stay alternating with brother John next door, until Eoin drove the three of us to Birmingham airport. Poor Eva had a terrible journey back to Bremen because of freak flooding in Germany, but we had a quiet night in the highly convenient Ibis Budget at the airport and a flight back on Monday, which could have been better with some ritalin for the lad in the row behind, but Dave picked us up smoothly and normality resumed!

An event well worth the effort! A long and happy marriage to Sam and Catherine!!