Friday 31 May 2013

Red Herrings, White Cliffs, Bluebells! England in May Part 1

Hope springs eternal! We don`t have a lot of choice about our annual trip to UK:- it has to be April May or June. We have sometimes had shocking weather. Last year was almost a  wash-out! We gritted our teeth and planned 18 days across 5 locations (not venturing too far North or into Central London!)
 
 
We had an easy drive from Dover up to Oulton Broad in Suffolk and the sun shone, although there was a very cold wind. We had time to visit Halfords to try for a new chain guard (unsuccessful!) and Currys to buy a new laptop. We were staying with Rick – a sort of cousin of Bob – who, for the last few years, has been away offshore when we visited. This time we spent time together, and he showed us the highlights of O Broad and Lowestoft. On the first full day there was an unusual event. We went to Great Yarmouth and it didn´t rain! Just as well:- the purpose was to have Yvette serviced and gain an MOT certificate, so we would be cast adrift on our bicycles for a good few hours. It was cold, of course (this is Norfolk!) but there was bright sunshine, and we were able to tour the town´s sights like the Nelson Monument, the Jewish burial ground, and the location of the old ferries across to Gorleston, during the heyday of fishing.
 
Next day Bob and Rick went for a long bike ride whilst Ruth wrestled with Windows 8 on the new acquisition (not convinced by it as yet!). They went round nature trails and some of the old parts of Oulton Broad. Still no rain! Nor on the Sunday, even though it was a Bank Holiday weekend! After re-packing Yvette again we drove to Kessingland  (a little south of Lowestoft on the coast) and met up with Rick who had cycled. We strolled along the coastal path in what could be called “bracing” weather despite the sunshine, and then went to visit his paternal grandmother (genealogically linked somehow by marriage to Bob) for the first time for some more insights into that part of the family. She is about 90 years old and a delightful lady:- still in possession of almost all her marbles!
Then we set off for Northampton. “Why?” is a good question, and the answer is that it looked like a good spot for some cycling alongside the Grand Union canal. We had booked into one of the town´s three Travelodges and had some reasonable verbal instructions revolving around proximity to the football stadium, but the name thereof had not been recorded. (It is in fact Sixfields should you ever need to know!). En route we were caught in a Sunday afternoon traffic accident jam for half an hour, and then got completely lost at the ring road. We went backwards and forwards, at one point seeing a Travelodge in the distance and deciding it was wrong. We asked at a petrol station and got what we later realized were perfect directions if we had been pointing in the opposite direction, headed way out into the country and had to turn round in a pub car park. We then had another go at the ring road and went back to the previously spotted hotel. It had a good pub attached and a smell of roast dinner. We heaved great sighs of relief and went in. No sign of our reservation! “Is this Upton?” “No, but many people make the same mistake:- here are printed instructions for getting to Upton!” We were clearly not the first victims of road-signing à la mode de Northampton! Once there all was forgiven and we remain refusniks on the SatNav front! It was indeed immediately opposite the stadium and its associated enormous “Leisure Park”.  On the skyline is what has become known as the Northampton Lighthouse. Read more here! We are in no position to comment on the gastronomy of the town! Over four nights we sampled the fare of some of the numerous chain restaurants conveniently located across the road. Best food was at Bella Italia, most interesting was at the World Buffet (where we had a bit of a to-do about the timings for pensioners´ special rates), and we also ate at a TGI Fridays, and a Frankie and Benny!


We had got away from the East Coast wind, and the sun still shone so on Bank Holiday Monday we rode down the Northampton Arm of the G.U. to Gayton Junction and (quite dramatically uphill) into the village (and of course, back!) Just the job, with almost all the towpath well maintained for cyclists and only a few great post-deluge puddles! The town itself has an impressive network of cycle paths, and you can get almost everywhere on them except into the town centre! As this was where we wanted to go we ended up the next day going our separate ways after Ruth refused to cycle on pavements over hazardous bridges etc and only Bob made it to Primark!

We did, however, have a great day out by car visiting the National Waterways Museum at Stoke Bruerne:- neatly chassising round two coach-loads of Brummie primary schoolchildren, and viewing one end of the famous Blisworth tunnel. On the way back our joy was unbounded when we found a Halfords that fitted a chain guard on the spot and had a saddle cover, and a huge Boots that could supply a year´s worth of toiletries (with Advantage points!)
 
 
Next we were bound for Oxford, but the weather forecast was not too good! We went via Bicester where we had found on the internet the address of a Kwik-Fit Tyre Centre, and a “beautiful launderette” (Yes it had a star rating from a happy customer!). We did the business at both and then killed some time beside the Oxford Canal in a pub at Thrupp. It was getting very cold and gloomy! Our four days in Oxford were doomed! We stayed as before out at the Travelodge on what we used to call the Northern By-pass. It is very handy, and there is a neighbouring Park and Ride that is perfect for visiting the city, so on the first full day we did, getting on with vital UK shopping, such as Bravissimo and Waterstones, and then finding it so cold that we hastened back, just beating the rain! That was the good bit of weather. Next day we went to Aylesbury for lunch with Ruth´s sister Lois and her partner. We got lost trying to avoid the town centre, but had a good meal in a pub accessible with her mobility scooter, visited her home and then were directed to a huge Tesco where we could continue provisioning. It was pouring with rain as we arrived there. When we came out it started to hail and driving was almost impossible. Once again we parked up at the hotel in appalling weather, and next day was little better. What to do on a cold wet Sunday? Get lost on the ring road! This time in search of the multi-screen cinema allegedly next to Oxford United´s ground. (The latter has unsurprisingly moved since Ruth lived in the city 37 years previously!) By the time we had found it, got very wet, and discovered there was nowhere pleasant nearby  in which to kill time till the film we had lost the will to shell out the price demanded and took Sunday papers to a pub, which was a much better idea! Later The Plough at Wolvercote once again delivered a delicious supper (and an inexplicable number of single Dutch men!).. and that was Oxford in May: bikes never removed from rack, feet never out of socks, camera untroubled by use!
 
As we left Oxford the rain stopped, and we drove down to the south coast. First we met up with Ruth´s  parents  long  lunch at The Ship at Langstone Harbour near Hayling Island. It was bitterly cold and the sea was rough, but it wasn´t raining, but by the time we got to our next staging post - Worthing - it was obvious our meteorological luck was not going to change. We were staying on the seafront and it was blowing a gale. Even taking bikes off the car before parking was  foul experience and then it started to rain. The next day we shopped in the rain, sat in a pub, lurked in the hotel room, ate on site and watched programmes from our stash. This was not what we had planned!
It was a bit brighter next day for our trip "up town". We had bought rail tickets for an amazingly good price on pre-determined trains, and had a tight itinerary to get us to our new tenants in each of the two rental properties,  and meet up with ex-neighbour  Pete. It all worked and we largely missed the showers, got in a nostalgic meal at Nando´s in Balham, froze on several station platforms and were back in Worthing on a late train. The following day was as if nothing had happened! The sun shone, the sea was blue, and the wind had dropped. We used the bikes for some odd essential tasks around town and felt a whole lot better!

"This weekend I have mostly been gardening"

 
The final bit was with friends in Rotherfield (East Sussex). This is another place where we have visited several times during migrations and been washed out (or kept in) by English weather. This time the rain came only at night or early mornings, so we were able to sit (or in Bob´s case - help) in their garden and go for bike rides on two successive days.
 


Each was a section of the Cuckoo Trail: - disused railway track, and although it was definitely cold and the ground was soggy there was glorious sunshine, and the scenery  wild flowers were beautiful. As part of the return journey we ventured into Kent and visited The Middle House- a very old pub in Mayfield, so that our final meal of the GB tour was delicious roast local beef with all the trimmings.
 
We set off next morning.  The tally:- 18 days in May, of which  9 were sunny but cold, 1 was sunny and quite warm, 2 were just windy and unpleasant, and 6 were disgusting.
 


We

Thursday 30 May 2013

Sad News

Whilst we were travelling in UK we received a message about our friend Stephen from Paleohora. Some readers will know him as the partner of Olga. Unfortunately he did not survive an emergency operation in Chania General Hospital, and died there a couple of days later.
 
 
 
As is the way in Greece the funeral took place very quickly and we were not able to be there, but his father and brother atended. He has been buried in the village of Voutas above Paleo with Vangelis from Zygos helping to secure a plot. We have some photos of the service and grave, along with a copy of the wonderful eulogy given by Mick McT. Olga has received a lot of support, and is coping as well as can be expected.


Ruth has spent many an afternoon playing Scrabble and whist with Stephen, and we will both miss him, his anecdotes and even his arguments about politics.

RIP

Saturday 11 May 2013

The length of France: from last page to first page in 18 days





Yes -that`s snow on the Pyrenees

The rest of the month of April was our annual dose of France. First we spent a week once again at Le Brasilia in Canet en Roussillon in one of the cheap (cheep?) units:-  old but perfectly serviceable bungalows named after birds. This time we were allocated Chardonneret (Finch). The site had opened just the day before we arrived, so everything was fresh, clean and - in many cases - new. The weather was kind :- bright sunshine and clear skies, but the wind was fierce, which shortened some of the cycling! Nonetheless we did some trips in each direction. Towards the end of the week there was a severe deterioration in the weather and we took the bicycles for servicing during a gale! The area near the campsite has been being seriously developed over the years of our visits, and there is now a large functioning boatyard with numerous shrink-wrapped vessels. Overall there is vibrancy about the town, and no shortage of tourists. (Small curiosities were a family with identical triplet boys of about a year old:- quite a handful at mealtimes, and a new Dutch animateur who engaged us in conversation and said his own name of Bob was incomprehensible in most of Europe but he had been named after Charlton and Kennedy!)

We left on the Sunday and had an easy drive up to Bergerac for a one-night stop. We had chosen a very comfortable and well-located hotel (l´Europ) and enjoyed a sunny evening stroll round and a duck menu in the open air. We liked the place a lot and will return. Here are some shots:

Then we drove through some beautiful countryside for two nights visiting George and Gregory near Limoges. Like last year we stayed in Availles at Le Chatellenie with its lavish decoration and noisy floorboards, and spent time chez George. This included a Thai meal with their ex-pat friends which was cooked by Gee who is lodging there, and a lunch out in a favourite small restaurant in Les Éterps. The sun shone for much of these days, and we set off for the Atlantic coast in hope!

We stayed in the Vendée at Le Littoral - a campsite in the same Yelloh group as wonderful Brasilia and with the same 5 stars. It didn´t quite measure up to this, though - the mobile homes being rather packed, there being a poor traiteur (take-away) service and the WiFi playing up periodically, but it made a change and we did a ride to Veillon beach on a glorious day. (It was very busy:- we had hit Parisian school holidays!) Unfortunately although the weather remained good for a couple of days we were hors de combat as Bob had badly sprained his ankle - probably as he mounted a pavement on the good ride - and was confined to barracks (with dodgy WiFi) for several days by which time we were back to disgusting climatic conditions. This meant Ruth had to do a bit of driving. This is a very rare occurrence and breath was baited as we did short trips, but we did manage a Sunday lunch at nearby (and pleasant) Port Bourgenay. The sun shone brightly but the wind was bitter and we ate in a half-sheltered terrace retaining our jackets as did the other diners. Lovely food from the "almost cheapest" menu:



After that we had to make the best of bad weather. We had already decided to leave a day early as our plan for getting to the ferry at Dunkerque was looking too demanding and the Vendée not looking worth it, but we did a day trip to Sables d´Olonne (as in round the world sailing). Once again some awful winds, together with ankles and knees meant a meagre tour, but we sat and ate our lunch outside the glass-fronted pool and watched hardier souls on the beach!
On the Tuesday we took our time to pack up - dodging the rain - and drove to Alencon. It was a stressful wet drive, but at least we knew how to do the last few kilometres:- unlike last year! When it came to eating the only real option was the Buffalo Grill, which has delivered the goods before. Oh dear! Ruth has made a formal complaint about the Charolais steak (and its replacement). Watch this space for their response! It was a disgrace! Never mind, we had the prospect of a Campanile meal the next night (our penultimate of the season). The drive North was mostly very easy as it was a Bank Holiday and HGVs were banned. We flew up to Rouen, sometimes having no other vehicle in sight. We were determined to get round Norwich´s twin city calmly but a bridge is closed so panic again... We coped, enjoyed some sun in a place near Dunkerque and later discovered that Campanile has reduced quality considerably since our early enthusiastic encounters. (We would have gone to neighbouring Poivre Rouge - but it chose to close for the evening... Grrrr!?)
Up early and on the 8am ferry to Blighty!