"When you gotta go...."

 Reviewing the last post Greyrocks has just noticed that the presaged account of our "odyssey" from safe island to safe island, which happened over a fortnight ago, has not been released to the expectant world! The reason is probably senility and it can only get worse! 

Here it is:

We stayed in Paleo rather later than usual to use all of the one hundred nights which is the deal we have for the apartment, but we had no return flight arrangement. The original plan had been to fly from Heraklion to Montpellier, so once that had been abandoned (and refunded:- see last post) all options - including extending our staying - were open. Greece banned flights to and from Catalunya, so Barca was out. Reversing the outward journey would mean overnighting in Madrid, which seemed to be dicing with death, so we homed in on Italy, There was a possible two-stage route via Bergamo with an overnight stay, but it disappeared before we could commit; or there was a three-stage route via Athens and Milan that could be done in one very long day. This remained under consideration for several days, but was very expensive and hardly restful! Then Ruth bit the bullet and investigated Ryanair again without the agreed constraint of "We are not going anywhere near the UK!"

This led to the itinerary we actually did use:

Flight 1 - Chania to Stansted was possible on 12th or 19th October. Fearing that the final flight might be cancelled we went for the 12th. The basic cost was EUR 20 per head. At the airport there were just a half dozen flights for the afternoon and evening - several domestic! It was less than half-full and we each had a row of three seats. It arrived early, and we had a very long walk to passport control. The outdoor bit was extremely cold. Bob was still in shorts. Ruth had a heavy fleece and was wearing socks and closed shoes for the first time since required for gym and physiotherapy a year previously! We had our QR codes ready and were directed to a side passport e-gate avoiding the very small queue. Was it the grey hair? And that was it! No-one checked that we had the codes, and no-one knew we had come from Crete and so were subject - for the 12 hours we would be in UK - to self-isolation rules. At the reclaim belt there was one bag other than hours.

Overnight - There was no real choice about accommodation given our status, fear of transport and the very early morning departure flight. Prices were very low and we were offered an "upgrade" to a room with a runway view. The weather was filthy for the short walk, but the room was very comfortable (within Covid procedure). We saw more staff than guests during our stay and the catering was adequate but much reduced. We managed some British beer and fish and chips. We were up by 3.30 am and walked back through drizzle to check in. 

Flight 2 - This cost (without baggage) GBP 10 each! There was quite a list of flights going out early and ours was the second. The common check-in queue was substantial and barely socially distanced. It wasn't helped by the verification that adequate documentation was held for the destination, and what had to happen if it wasn't! the departure lounge was very busy and no catering was open until just before our (far distant) gate was announced. The flight had 48 passengers in all, was well-managed, and - of course - we had plenty of space! A slight delay at Passport Control as those ahead of us were Aussies, and then health control! Our QR codes were registered, and we approached the white-clad medics. Nothing! Not even a temperature check! We were in!

Up/down - In/out - On/Off? - Greyrocks lives the confusion of restrictions

 

This was the best option!

 Greyrocks frequently asserts these days that our "Time of Covid" is being spent on two very safe islands, with migration between being effected after tortuous planning and with minimised risk. So this post is largely about the restrictions - new and superseded - in Fuerteventura and the Chania prefecture of Crete. together with the recent odyssey between the two. First, though - for completeness, and after a long "blog silence"- a summary of the dog days in Paleo.

 As October developed we saw a "changing of the guard":- friends had "last nights" - or cautious "penultimate nights", whilst other returned from Scotland. the West Midlands and Oxford with tales of misery. We watched as Montpellier and its département of l'Hérault descended into the depths of Covid infection and tight restriction. Then - with heavy hearts -we cancelled the accommodation and hoped that Transavia would cancel the flight. They didn't, and in fact the French continued to arrive as tourists, so we thought we would have to "take the hit", and then suddenly they announced a minor change with the option of a refund. Phew!

Hassan's final oeuvre 

 The weather in early October had everything! On three successive days - corresponding with the full moon - the sea was too rough for swimming, but the sun shone brightly. On a couple of days it was the wind that kept us off the beach, with dramatic gusts on the 6th. Naturally the sea was colder than in high summer, but we managed a good swim two days before leaving, by which time beach occupation had dropped again, after a fairly busy first week.

Greyrocks worked its way round the favourite restaurants and had some excellent meals, but didn't make it to Houmas at Gramenon as the road was closed! Instead, six of us met for lunch at the cantina. Then the sunbeds were helpfully transported to their winter home, and we were on our way!

Our two major "homes" have both emerged as considered internally as "unfairly treated" by their nation states in terms of Covid restrictions. Greece was out of its heavy lockdown by the time we had arrived, but this was tightened somewhat as tourism grew, and masks were required in the supermarkets. Later came the restriction to four at a restaurant table (or six if a family), the midnight curfew, and masks required (but only sporadically worn) almost everywhere. This was much resented, particularly in the final month or so as the number of new infections in our prefecture was coming in at 0, 1, or very occasionally 2 per day. Heraklion - in contrast - has been experiencing up to 6 per day. Recently the national government has introduced a (4 stage) "traffic lights" designation by prefecture, and as we left some restrictions were lifted. 

For both islands it looked as if the UK (and particularly English) administrations needed to be given an atlas and access tp localised statistics. Crete was on the England quarantine list from 9th September, based-  one suspects - on its size and the "party" areas out East, and as smaller islands were removed it stayed there until 18th October:- just six days after our departure. This has exemplified the Covid dilemma. Yes, we were very safe there, but the economy was on its knees!

Meanwhile the Canaries began "the time of Covid" following national rules, and has been fighting for the right to address its particular characterises of remoteness and dependence on tourism. By the time we left there was some recognition of this and life became easier. We returned to find some aspects looser than in Crete, such as ten to a table, some tighter but welcome, such as the ban on smoking on bar and restaurant terraces, and some the same but taken more seriously, such as masks in the street and a midnight curfew! The traffic light system was introduced and Fuerteventura was placed in "red". This follows a huge influx of holidaymakers from the Peninsula in high summer, and a delayed effect on case numbers. Then this Sunday (18th) the lights changed, and the group size was increased .and the  curfew moved on an hour. 

In terms of UK quarantine rules, however, the news was bleak, and - distasteful as it can be to observe sometimes - the island needs British tourists; and they have been few since 28th July! Then in London they found the atlas and yesterday announced that the Canaries will leave the dirty list on Sunday! Our reaction: both fear and relief, as above!!