Normal and New!

 Here on "Fraggle Rock" it's Bonanza Time for many as tourism resurges with a vengeance and  well-off  residents benefit from the re-opening of bars and restaurants: some with live music! Walking round town in the early evening it would be difficult to see signs of the pandemic other than the compulsory wearing of masks by staff. The island moved to Level 1  - the last in the archipelago to do so - on October 15th, so the maximum table size is 12 diners, inside space can be used,  closing time is 3 am, and - to Greyrocks' delight - the smoking restrictions remain.

This has revealed what might be "the new normal" in terms of restaurants and bars. What has been closed and still is will likely never re-open. Casualties include Cordon Blue, Tuxedo, Slow Boat buffet, Pizza/Co near Duna Club, big Italian behind Playita, El Sombrero, Casco Viejo, Sushi Bar, Sanus and the eyesore thing next to Fazz,  not to mention Italian coffee bars which resemble musical chairs in management and nomenclature.

Of the rest quite a few stayed open throughout the various levels even if that meant tables in the street, others re-opened without a fanfare and are catching less discerning tourists when the good ones are full! Worthy of note as new ventures are:

El Anzuelo expanding into the premises of El Sombrero with a fancy grill area in-between

La Bolada doubling in size

Da Uli moving to the premises with roof terrace formerly a burger joint between music squares

El Cobijo de Carlos opening as a tapas bar at the top end of Grandes Playas next the closed Loft: (the staff having moved from El Patio Andaluz, which now opens only in the evening)

Jacque Mate located a block back from the Health Centre with a chess theme, and doing BBQs with music and aimed at surfers.

On the shopping front we have lost Zara and an unmemorable trainer store, but gained in the place of the latter a bundle of fun near Hoplaco. Bob returned from a ride to say there was a second model cow in town (the other is outside El Anzuelo)  and Ruth had seen an outbreak of carrier bags bearing the name of a store on Cantera beach in Las Palmas. In fact a branch of Ale-Hop has opened with its eclectic range of gifts, toys, knick-knacks and gadgets. 

Also offering something a bit different - and actually open since shortly before we left in May is Epicure:- a "deli" specialising in French and Canarian delicacies. Greyrocks has bought a few bottles there!!!

Will it ever look thus?

The harbour is undergoing a major expansion and some land-based prettification. The long-term plan is to adapt so that small cruise ships can dock. This was proposed over ten years ago.

During Greyrocks' absence work began on doubling of the number of berths for fishing and pleasure boats. This involves taking heavy tubes out to their position and driving them into the sea-bed, then placing pontoons. Fascinating to watch!

And so to three leisure pleasures for Greyrocks that have been denied by Covid:

A bus trip to El Cotillo. We have nervously been on a bus on the island to do business in Puerto, but this was the first time since March 2020 that we have been for pleasure. It was whilst Neil and Maggie were still with us. En route we stopped at Lajares for the craft market. The village was heaving with traffic. We were unexpectedly asked to show proof of vaccination at the "entrance" to the open-air site, and our visitors struggled to get UK passes accepted. All the stalls had novel items for sale, and the music was good. We managed to pick up the next bus onward. (This is made complicated by an up-and-back route and no timetable on display)

El Cotillo has been much beautified in 17 months, and the bus arrangements changed! But after seeing the sites and a great lunch with Lanzarote wine we got back safely!

Then there is the live music! The blog tells of Bulgarian rock in Cyprus, and Greek rock/pop in Paleo, but not much of it! We have - since returning - caught some unamplified and percussion-free offerings, and we have been twice to the Paradise Friday jam sessions.. but what we craved was to sit in comfort to some Classic Rock from a proper band! This remained a dream until ten days ago, We can now go to both Retro where Straight Ahead play on Fridays, and the Rock Café  where the house band play in some configuration every night. Hugs all round!

Finally we celebrate the return to near normal of the Corralejo Blues Festival! It was back to the usual square, but because of the "vaccinated and seated only" policy there was tall fence of obscure netting all around, and the plastic chairs were carefully spaced, We chose to forgo the visual experience (other than poking our noses through gaps!) and listened on both nights from Domingos with very nice tapas and wine. Unfortunately we missed out on Madeline Bell and Friends by trying to get in when it was full! Hey ho!

Go Cristobel, go!

 

Pausing to note that Spain has a colonial history with much to be ashamed about Greyrocks sends greetings from Fuerteventura on 12th October.  This year it is a Tuesday, which makes it possible for some workers and all schoolchildren and students to have a long weekend or puente. Today is a national holiday.

Corralejo has been heaving over the period. English is dominating the languages spoken amongst tourists as much as it did pre-Covid, but there are also many visitors from the mainland. Bar and restaurant owners are delighted, and the traffic is bad! Normality may be in sight!

As the day is celebrated throughout the Spanish-speaking world (and as Columbus Day in USA) here is a little quiz about the flags of 21 such nations. 

Enjoy!

"It is better to travel than to arrive"

.. but not like this!

Greyrocks is in Puerto del Rosario as planned, and the idea of having a couple of days here to relax seems prescient, as we suffered a lot of stress in the preceding 37 hours! The previously unspoken suggestion that we might be getting too old for this has been uttered!

We started with a 4am taxi to Chania airport with the driver who regularly does the anti-social hours run, and who told us how dead the airport would be. It was indeed with very easy check-in and ages to kill. The flight to Athens was full but arrived early, so we simply walked through the labyrinth of the airport (Schengen arrival so no checks) to find the Vueling check-in. There was hardly any queue at the desk but an employee was checking Covid status before allowing people to get there. We proffered our "Fast Control" QR codes and had trouble identifying the problem, then realised the date on them was today - not yesterday! (It was Ruth that had made the error with the confusion arising from two consecutive days of travel, but Bob had checked it before submission). She said we would have to do new ones and there was plenty of time for that!

We found some space in an increasingly crowded airport and spent an age trying to start again with no success. Communications defaulted to the original. We tried to find Vueling's agent but they would not be there until it was too late, then with the check-in queue now growing alarmingly Bob got past the "filter" and was told we could check-in from the main queue provided we took the risk of not being able to enter Spain. (This would have been disastrous as we were on day 90 of the wretched 90-day allowance) So we joined the queue and from this point were just another two passengers in it. This lasted at least an hour with folk trying to butt in and a distinct lack of social distancing, but we made it and reached the gate with ten minutes to spare until the revised closure. An entire apron bus-full was even tighter in boarding, so we did indeed take off late. 

In Barcelona things were looking as if we might not need the paperwork as we were triaged, but they caught us and the QR codes were declared invalid, so we had to stand with a dozen other sinners and fill everything out again but manually, and were then waved through nicely. From there to Baggage Reclaim which had still not yet started - even after all this! It was late and slow, so we began to get messages about our pre-booked taxi having arrived, and then having gone as the waiting time was exceeded. Twenty WhatsApp later we eventually found it, having been at the wrong exit!  The driver was remarkably pleasant about it all and sped us to the Best Western, which we had selected over our usual hotel, because that no longer had a shuttle during the afternoon. - only for us to discover too late that this one didn't either - hence the taxi! The evening was pleasant and we were knackered, so an early night, with the shuttle booked for 7.30!

Our flight to Fuerteventura was at 10.30 so we thought we had plenty of time to sort the known issue of residents' discount. Brexit has put an end to this sizeable perk of a 75 per cent discount on such flights. We had claimed months previously but had failed to obtain the certificates, which had hitherto been easy to get from the website of the council. We knew we would have to pay the balance and went to the Customer Services desk to join another queue. This one took until 9.20 to clear and give us access to a very helpful person from whom we could only buy a new full ticket. There was seriously anxiety about missing the flight, but she arranged a special check-in desk and we made it to the gate and even had upgraded seats. Out of control small children adjacent meant it was not the most restful flight, but we were elated and relieved to be on it at all! 

On arrival we were once again shepherded by originating airport and our certificates were not inspected. We got a taxi swiftly to the hotel.

We anticipate a good night's sleep!