December: A Roller Coaster of a Month to round off 2020

It goes without saying that Greyrocks has had a year of great luck and carefreeness in comparison to the rest of humanity!   With that firmly in mind we recount the "Ups and Downs" which have added complications to our life as Spain and particularly the Canaries have sought to protect both the resident population and the tourism component of the economy in the "Time of Covid". We had no plans to leave the archipelago but we did want - and had planned for - a Festive Visit by Chloë and Jack. This was to start with a flight on 23rd December. All four of us would then fly to Gran Canaria to see in the New Year in Las Palmas and they would fly back to UK from there, whilst we would stay until after Reyes on 6th January. Neat plan!

Greyrocks wallowed elsewhere about their arrival in October (from Crete) to such a safe place, and had breezed through the airport with just a QR code each, but things soon became more complicated! The ridiculous requirement for self-isolation on return to UK , which had impacted mildly on our migration. was lifted soon after, and a vibrant winter season was foreseen, but on the Peninsula the virus data was worrying, and the Canarian government introduced the scheme whereby tourists would have to present negative test results at their accommodation. This was implemented from 19th November, but then came the ruling for the whole nation that all people - irrespective of their residency - who had arrived from high risk countries would have to present a negative result - and this had to be the "full Monty" PCR! The UK was firmly on the dirty list alongside significantly Italy, Netherlands and Germany! This started on 23rd November. No option of doing anything on arrival and in the first few days there were tales of those refused boarding at departure! By now we were hatching plans to get Chloë and Jack over here fast for fear of cancelled flights. (In fact their return was soon cancelled and an alternative sought). From 10th December the UK reimposed the  "quarantine" on return, although in England it could be shortened..!!! All this is academic as flying from UK is banned (except for Spanish nationals and documented residents) since 23rd December.

.

Note that date!! Without intervention Chloë and Jack would not be here with us for the holiday and festivities, as this was the long-standing outward flight date. But they are! He was getting few shifts with the closure of tourist attractions, and her employer agreed that she could "work from home" over here for the two weeks up to Christmas, so that is how December has panned out for our little temporary household: some rushed preparation on our part, and meeting shopping requests on theirs, an extortionate pair of  PCR tests, a flight out on 5th, Chloë doing office hours online in the freshly prepared spare room for ten weekdays, and some "fun in the sun" at other times. It took a while for them to adjust to the more relaxed practices here, and we have all been avoiding places which - whilst probably legal - seem crowded.

Betancuria

We followed Spanish tradition and had our feast on the night of 24th, and since then, as the date to fly to Las Palmas loomed they had long days out together visiting Lobos, Puerto del Rosario and Betancuria.

Now Greyrocks has empty nest syndrome, for they left for their six days away and we didn't go! It was a painful decision but we looked at the data and thought about the many things we would not be able to do in the circumstances and so availed ourselves of free cancellation on the hotel, and let the EUR 38 for flights go!

"Numbers to die for": As at 30th December the island has 40 active cases, of which one is in Intensive Care, and one is elsewhere in the hospital. Since the onset of the pandemic there have been 4 deaths, and the 7-day moving average for cases per 100, 000 inhabitants stands at 14.1.

We ain't goin' nowhere!

Theta, Kappa and Clement bring weather that is not!

 

As November progressed things on Greyrocks' safe island remained much the same, but with darker evenings, and some bizarre weather. For example yesterday was aware of some rain during the night but looking out after sunrise saw that for the first time this year there were huge puddles in the places where they normally recur on nearby streets. The sky still looked threatening so for the morning walk Ruth wore trousers and took a jacket. By noon the temperature was 26C and shade was at a premium in the bar where we sat! This was the tail end of tropical storm Clement on Sunday. Its arrival had been on the cards all week, and on Wednesday it began during our evening trip out for tapas. Thursday saw widespread winds of 60 km/hr and some gusts much worse doing a small amount of damage, but the amount of rain was small. Not so in the north of Tenerife:

 Memorable also was the state of the sea. From the balcony we saw section of the route between the islands, and the waves which near us intersect from two directions were enormous. We didn't hang around to see how the ferries were faring!

Also making their mark are two sub-tropical storms. Theta - was it a hurricane, was it a cyclone? - made its relatively slow way towards us around 10th November. Ruth got caught in a short-lived but serious downpour on her way back from physio on that day, and the next few were dismal and windy, but the centre of the storm moved off north towards the peninsula, and sunshine returned.

Officially today is the end of the Atlantic hurricane season. Now however we are on alert for Kappa. This is what Clement will become if it develops further, and - as with other such phenomena -  it is the western islands that will get the torrential rain and we eastern ones that will get the worst of the wind. 

Between these storms, however, there has been plenty of sun, and for surfers some very inviting waves! Greyrocks believes the number of surfers grows each year. After our last visit to the spa for swimming we stopped off at Punta Elena. This bar (and small complex) is right on the shore, although is is hardly a beach at that point, and we have known it under two or three other managements and names. This time it was heaving with surfers and their kit, and the sea was as full of action as we have ever seen anywhere for ourselves in real time.

'Tis also the season of the oldies' birthdays. Bob and Elaine the Hairdresser have theirs just a few days apart. In normal years Greyrocks would go elsewhere to celebrate, but we didn't want to fly nor take two buses so options diminished. We heard of a good hotel just across the water in Playa Blanca and would have been happy to do that journey, but we rang them and many facilities there were closed. So we paired up with Elaine and Andrew to invite four others to Fadu. This a much more successful and inviting offshoot of Fado Rock and is making a name for itself especially for groups of up to ten, with many taking the "tasting menu" which includes all wine and beer. We did so too and weren't allowed to pay more than our own part of the bill. Great value!

Bogavente at Rompeolas

For the day itself we went for the first time to Corralejo's fairly new and well-awarded Rompeolas. As we expected this was at the other end of the cost spectrum, but included some real delights and the service was perfect. 
 

 

 

"Good Riddance", but what a nail-biter!

 Feeling that a new post is overdue Greyrocks looked back at the last and saw the reference to Trump. We did indeed spend much of the week of the US election looking at the graphics and letting the fizz remain in the fridge.

This was during a spell of unsettled weather, with scattered showers and wind that was both cold and strong. The duvet had to be brought into service, and tables with shelter were at a premium in bars and restaurants. On the Saturday afternoon we opted for an inside table for Eric's session at Anno 2011, and midway we heard that Trump was history, and that the bottle of Prosecco we were already consuming was not in vain. Ruth went and told Eric who announced it to the masses.  As we write he (Trump that is) is still hanging on and histrionic, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.

Positive news also during the early part of November in terms of getting out and about! No buses for us, so the geographical range is limited, but we had met Carl-Peter Görs in the street with his intended from Hull and were told that "his" band Straight Ahead does play on Fridays at Retro.  This is presumably permitted because of its open frontage, so in spite of it being a substantial trek from home Greyrocks tried it out on the 6th, loved the whole experience - including the food - and returned keenly the next Friday. Here is a sample: 

A proper rock band after all this time! Now we need Rock Café to re-open!

Greyrocks has now also made three trips to the pool that is part of the Gran Hotel Bahia Real. This is another trek from home, so Ruth takes a taxi all the way, and some of the way back! In our absence - and following the hotel closure - arrangements have changed, so instead of our season ticket allowing us to stay all day we have to choose a half-day session, meaning we go early and come away for lunch. There are number restrictions and the loungers have been spaced out, but we can do our circuit swimming and relax with a good beach view! Another pleasure much missed!

A related delight was Bob cycling past La Bolada and seeing that it was now open. It did not do so until just after we left in July so we had feared it was a Covid casualty. But no! It is up and running with some changes to the menu, but still a perfect Sunday treat after the spa. We were welcomed as "long-lost" and are back to pre-Covid Sundays:- swim, Argentinian, Scrabble!  

Off home - but not to work!

Finally, another welcome departure at national level, and a possible welcome at family level!

We cheered on seeing Dominic Cummings being evicted unceremoniously from Downing Street and the end of a shameful and damaging career.

In parallel we have been working on a plan for Chloë to work from home in our home! This follows from Bristol's deterioration in Covid terms, a very heavy caseload with students suffering,  and effectively an early end of the University term. She has been negotiating with managers and it seems likely that both Chloë and Jack will be with us for three weeks more than originally envisaged. We have been busy making her a suitable workspace and improved bed. 

The last few days have been riddled with confusion about the tests needed by some for entry to the Canaries. Since 14th the imperfect but fairly clear policy has been in force. This required a positive antigen test result for checking into holiday accommodation. It could be done after landing and was not too costly. Our guests (along with returning students and home-owners) would need nothing, which was a flaw but the scheme seemed a compromise. Before it even started a new national policy was announced involving the full CPR test before flying for all coming from risky countries. Rumours abounded about the fate after 23rd of the Canarian set-up, and local politicians have been infuriated. The reality is that it will still be in force for those travelling from other counties, but is otherwise subsumed in the extortionate and logistically challenging regime. After searching for available and appropriately timed appointments in Bristol Chloë and Jack will be paying (or the Bank of Mum and Dad will be paying) GBP 235 each!! Well done, Madrid! Many takers from UK for a festive season in the sun?

 

Weird and Scary

 

Being fans of neither religion nor North American sentimental commercialism Greyrocks has little time for the Halloween thing; but that date in 2020 will be remembered! As one correspondent to the Guardian wrote: this time round it's the ones without masks that are really scary!

Here in the Canaries we were experiencing that mixture of relief and fear that came with the return of British, German and Dutch tourists. Plenty of British families and others have been out and about in town:- not all obeying rules on social distancing and masks! And none will have been subject to any Covid testing, as the scheme based around the certificates needed for check-in at holiday accommodation has only just been publicised for a start up to two weeks from now. It seemed far from perfect, but we saw it as a serious attempt at reviving the local economy, whilst safeguarding the precious status of the archipelago as the only safe place in Spain. We just had to get through this interim phase of "loose canons". Fingers crossed and stay away from Brit-focused bars and restaurants!

Experimental vaccine?

The council banned "truco o trato", but on Friday 30th children from the primary schools were out and about during the day in fancy dress, and there were pumpkins in windows. Greyrocks went out for the evening on 31st, caught the tail end of Eric playing at Anno 2011, confirmed that our favourite Chinese buffet had never re-opened and were welcomed effusively by the friendly woman who had moved over to the pan-Asiatic Oriental across the road. This could be an excellent substitute for Slow Boat Wok. We had a great meal, seeing a few rogue instances of trick and treating; then headed for home and in passing through the "music square" (that hasn't had music) we saw kit on the stage, so settled at Florita. Two Italians performed some decent rock without much interaction. At one point the neighbouring table was occupied by two women - one of whom was in fancy dress - and we had a chat! They are Colombian and great fun!! 

But that was Saturday night, and the full impact of Johnson's "lockdown" for England had not struck us! We have been keeping an eye on the flights between then and Thursday morning, and been urging friends and family to use one to escape to some safety and freedom. For people in town dependent on tourism this is a disaster that will last all month. For Greyrocks it raises the possibility that Chloë and Jack may not be able to join us for their festive break. What a mess! Greyrocks is right behind this editorial.

But we do have some fizz chilling in expectation of the demise of Trump!

"When you gotta go...."

 Reviewing the last post Greyrocks has just noticed that the presaged account of our "odyssey" from safe island to safe island, which happened over a fortnight ago, has not been released to the expectant world! The reason is probably senility and it can only get worse! 

Here it is:

We stayed in Paleo rather later than usual to use all of the one hundred nights which is the deal we have for the apartment, but we had no return flight arrangement. The original plan had been to fly from Heraklion to Montpellier, so once that had been abandoned (and refunded:- see last post) all options - including extending our staying - were open. Greece banned flights to and from Catalunya, so Barca was out. Reversing the outward journey would mean overnighting in Madrid, which seemed to be dicing with death, so we homed in on Italy, There was a possible two-stage route via Bergamo with an overnight stay, but it disappeared before we could commit; or there was a three-stage route via Athens and Milan that could be done in one very long day. This remained under consideration for several days, but was very expensive and hardly restful! Then Ruth bit the bullet and investigated Ryanair again without the agreed constraint of "We are not going anywhere near the UK!"

This led to the itinerary we actually did use:

Flight 1 - Chania to Stansted was possible on 12th or 19th October. Fearing that the final flight might be cancelled we went for the 12th. The basic cost was EUR 20 per head. At the airport there were just a half dozen flights for the afternoon and evening - several domestic! It was less than half-full and we each had a row of three seats. It arrived early, and we had a very long walk to passport control. The outdoor bit was extremely cold. Bob was still in shorts. Ruth had a heavy fleece and was wearing socks and closed shoes for the first time since required for gym and physiotherapy a year previously! We had our QR codes ready and were directed to a side passport e-gate avoiding the very small queue. Was it the grey hair? And that was it! No-one checked that we had the codes, and no-one knew we had come from Crete and so were subject - for the 12 hours we would be in UK - to self-isolation rules. At the reclaim belt there was one bag other than hours.

Overnight - There was no real choice about accommodation given our status, fear of transport and the very early morning departure flight. Prices were very low and we were offered an "upgrade" to a room with a runway view. The weather was filthy for the short walk, but the room was very comfortable (within Covid procedure). We saw more staff than guests during our stay and the catering was adequate but much reduced. We managed some British beer and fish and chips. We were up by 3.30 am and walked back through drizzle to check in. 

Flight 2 - This cost (without baggage) GBP 10 each! There was quite a list of flights going out early and ours was the second. The common check-in queue was substantial and barely socially distanced. It wasn't helped by the verification that adequate documentation was held for the destination, and what had to happen if it wasn't! the departure lounge was very busy and no catering was open until just before our (far distant) gate was announced. The flight had 48 passengers in all, was well-managed, and - of course - we had plenty of space! A slight delay at Passport Control as those ahead of us were Aussies, and then health control! Our QR codes were registered, and we approached the white-clad medics. Nothing! Not even a temperature check! We were in!

Up/down - In/out - On/Off? - Greyrocks lives the confusion of restrictions

 

This was the best option!

 Greyrocks frequently asserts these days that our "Time of Covid" is being spent on two very safe islands, with migration between being effected after tortuous planning and with minimised risk. So this post is largely about the restrictions - new and superseded - in Fuerteventura and the Chania prefecture of Crete. together with the recent odyssey between the two. First, though - for completeness, and after a long "blog silence"- a summary of the dog days in Paleo.

 As October developed we saw a "changing of the guard":- friends had "last nights" - or cautious "penultimate nights", whilst other returned from Scotland. the West Midlands and Oxford with tales of misery. We watched as Montpellier and its département of l'Hérault descended into the depths of Covid infection and tight restriction. Then - with heavy hearts -we cancelled the accommodation and hoped that Transavia would cancel the flight. They didn't, and in fact the French continued to arrive as tourists, so we thought we would have to "take the hit", and then suddenly they announced a minor change with the option of a refund. Phew!

Hassan's final oeuvre 

 The weather in early October had everything! On three successive days - corresponding with the full moon - the sea was too rough for swimming, but the sun shone brightly. On a couple of days it was the wind that kept us off the beach, with dramatic gusts on the 6th. Naturally the sea was colder than in high summer, but we managed a good swim two days before leaving, by which time beach occupation had dropped again, after a fairly busy first week.

Greyrocks worked its way round the favourite restaurants and had some excellent meals, but didn't make it to Houmas at Gramenon as the road was closed! Instead, six of us met for lunch at the cantina. Then the sunbeds were helpfully transported to their winter home, and we were on our way!

Our two major "homes" have both emerged as considered internally as "unfairly treated" by their nation states in terms of Covid restrictions. Greece was out of its heavy lockdown by the time we had arrived, but this was tightened somewhat as tourism grew, and masks were required in the supermarkets. Later came the restriction to four at a restaurant table (or six if a family), the midnight curfew, and masks required (but only sporadically worn) almost everywhere. This was much resented, particularly in the final month or so as the number of new infections in our prefecture was coming in at 0, 1, or very occasionally 2 per day. Heraklion - in contrast - has been experiencing up to 6 per day. Recently the national government has introduced a (4 stage) "traffic lights" designation by prefecture, and as we left some restrictions were lifted. 

For both islands it looked as if the UK (and particularly English) administrations needed to be given an atlas and access tp localised statistics. Crete was on the England quarantine list from 9th September, based-  one suspects - on its size and the "party" areas out East, and as smaller islands were removed it stayed there until 18th October:- just six days after our departure. This has exemplified the Covid dilemma. Yes, we were very safe there, but the economy was on its knees!

Meanwhile the Canaries began "the time of Covid" following national rules, and has been fighting for the right to address its particular characterises of remoteness and dependence on tourism. By the time we left there was some recognition of this and life became easier. We returned to find some aspects looser than in Crete, such as ten to a table, some tighter but welcome, such as the ban on smoking on bar and restaurant terraces, and some the same but taken more seriously, such as masks in the street and a midnight curfew! The traffic light system was introduced and Fuerteventura was placed in "red". This follows a huge influx of holidaymakers from the Peninsula in high summer, and a delayed effect on case numbers. Then this Sunday (18th) the lights changed, and the group size was increased .and the  curfew moved on an hour. 

In terms of UK quarantine rules, however, the news was bleak, and - distasteful as it can be to observe sometimes - the island needs British tourists; and they have been few since 28th July! Then in London they found the atlas and yesterday announced that the Canaries will leave the dirty list on Sunday! Our reaction: both fear and relief, as above!!

"Pandemic" is almost an anagram of "Medicane"!

 

... and they have both had a dramatic effect on late September!

With so few tourists and some "interesting" weather the beach daffodils have thrived. 

The build-up to medicane Ianos was dramatic! Through Thursday and Friday the sea became increasingly rough and far-reaching on the sand. There was wind, too, so walking to the cantina was a bit of a struggle, but Greyrocks did so, and speculated with others as to whether sandbags would be needed. Several websites showed live satellite images and the projected path, so many phones were the focus for animated discussions in bars throughout the village. We ate early on Friday and with an eye on potential cover, but the rain didn't happen, and we passed the time until curfew in the traditional manner with old friends at Cosmogonia!

There's something in the air!

The inevitable happened at 9.50 next morning! The thunder and torrential rain started. Later in the morning there was a pause, and Bob went to inspect. Already one of our access lanes was impassable. Bob met a neighbour who suggested the dry window would only comprise half an hour. He was right and we missed it, so we could not venture out until another couple hours of the storm (now with lightning) had passed. We waded to the only viable taverna for a late lunch as we feared the evening option was dodgy! This was Veggera - a place we have eschewed since it first opened following an unpleasant stifado and poor service! In these special circumstances, however, it was perfect! It was almost empty and had a solid roof! We had a couple of light dishes and stayed after the rain resumed! For a one minute view of the conditions click here!

In a another brief pause we made it home to hunker down with Netflix, then for the evening sought places with space and cover, Monika's Garden had its indoor area open, and the Vakakis Bakery was very full - mostly with locals - but did some good crepes.  As the evening progressed the view through the screens was dramatic! Well before the curfew there was another respite sufficient for the wade home!

The next day there was no rain, but it was too windy for the beach. When we did go there the day after the whole topography had changed - with yet more plates of rock exposed in some places, but an easy sea entry at our usual spot. There has also been damage to many of the parasols.

It hasn't been the best September metrologically, with the weather station statistics showing that on precisely half the days there was a gust of over 50 km/hr and an average over 15 km/h.  The month ends with another run of days with high winds and sea too frisky for Greyrocks.

The main beach at midday!

Nonetheless - and in spite of travel restrictions and multiple fears - there are still plenty of sunseekers on the naturist beach, with regular German and Scandinavian child-free visitors coming at this much later date, and -as usual - the favourite restaurants doing well. Our long-standing circle evaporated yesterday, and we have been working on our own exit strategy - with a solution found and secured only yesterday - but more of that later:- we still have ten days!

The expiry date for the midnight curfew rules for restaurants and bars came and they were extended into October. We are living with them, and are probably fitter and richer for them! It is all much clearer than the hotchpotch in England, but it is seen as "unfair" when our prefecture has had no new cases for over a week, and neighbouring Rethymnon has regular figured on the list with one or more! As for Crete as a whole being on UK's "quarantine list" with its consequences for tourism it looks as if the rest of Greece may join it there very soon as national data breaches the British criteria. 

Greyrocks is exceptionally pleased to have been able to spend the summer here!

Expecting!

 

This Wednesday's masterpiece created by Hassan on the sandy beach (near the boundary rock between Pachia Ammos and Limnaki) Since mid-July he has delighted passers-by with a new work almost everyday. Mostly the subjects have been animals or sea creatures, with the occasional mermaid or human figure.  Unlike in Corralejo - where the main purpose appears to be collecting cash -  Hassan creates and disappears to the back of the beach seeking nothing but admiration and having given great pleasure. The proportions are so accurate and the attention to detail is stunning! This is presumably because he is a trained vet!! What, then,  is he doing living on the breadline?  The clue is in his spoken communication, for he is from Syria! Unfortunately by yesterday morning it was long gone - thanks to the impending storm. (Read on!)

New life in reality is expected down near the shore in front of the Europa, where the presence of a nest of turtle eggs is marked with this stick structure and a "Do not Disturb" notice. Last year there was one very near "our tree", and when we asked the then sunbed Yiannis why it was not openly protected he said he feared theft of the eggs. In that case he came across the hatching process one early morning and the hatchlings were taken by experts to a suitable sea entry point. Perhaps this has already happened this time.

The structure caused some perturbation last week, when a long-staying French naturist settled down between it and the outcrop that marks the unofficial but well-established boundary of the naturist beach. When told by one of our friends with no French that this could cause real trouble for the community he seemed to believe the notice was said boundary!

We are all now expecting trouble from Ianos -the name given to the weather phenomenon that has already caused notable effects here and is due to hit us seriously tomorrow! It is classed as a medicane - contracted from "Mediterranean hurricane".   Things went a bit strange on Wednesday afternoon with a lot of cloud, a tiny amount of rain and the sea becoming rough. Yesterday there was no rain and fairly normal wind (for Paleo) but as rough a sea as Greyrocks has seen. We managed to make it to the cantina after Ruth's Scrabble - and back again, but sunbeds have been stowed ready for the onslaught, which might not be until Tomorrow (Saturday) The lashing of the waves is clearly audible from our apartment as this is published. Watch this space! Or watch this: 

That September Thing!

They kept coming through the horror of Beaufort 7!
See below! 

 Greyrocks has noted most years that September here has a different flavour - particularly after a crowded and chaotic August. What would it be like in the "Time of Covid"?

For us it started with a continuation of August as Chloë and Jack still had a few days left in town. This then led into ten days or so with our German musician friends and the Oxford crew.  Times at the cantina or Jetee became much more animated (and longer) with a special occurrence on 7th with the first  (and so far for us sole) socially distanced jamming session at the cantina. We stayed until well after sunset and struggled back along the shore attempting to avoid the hazards with minimal lighting. It was just like so many other years!

No sooner hd that phalanx moved on than the "usual September suspects" amongst our friends began to arrive. There had been doubts about who would and who wouldn't. The date of 8th was to be significant for this and the English (sic) government announced that those returning to that place from seven Greek islands after 4 am on 9th would be required to quarantine. In fact the only known no-shows as a result were the two sons of the friend in the YiayiaGaga Club whose 70th birthday we celebrated soon after. So now the club is at full strength except for the French (who cannot come at all) and our Goa-also chums from Cheshire grace the beach and cantina.

New cases over ten days to Sept 13th.

The various UK quarantine rules - all four listing Crete - have angered most folk here! Ruth had been monitoring for weeks the moving averages of new cases in all of Greece, and they were well below the alleged threshold! Now we do have a smattering on the island each day - mostly in the Heraklion prefecture. Where does the blame for these irrational decisions lie?  Youth partying in Malia, ignorance in British civil service or just victimisation of Remainers? Meanwhile the schools return today, so perhaps ... 

Down on the beach September is under way! Gone are most of the families and sunbeds (especially those with parasols ) are at a premium. Yiannis is on the point of planting more, but there is tension in the air:- not helped by some anti-social behaviour in terms of dogs, music, mobiles, loud conversations and "reserving with towels"! Also typically September tourists have more dosh, so the cantina is doing very well, and in response they have decided to serve some grilled meat occasionally.

By way of contrast on Wednesday they did not open at all! That day was the worst of a run of very windy days! It had been expected, with Force 7 showing the forecast. This was possibly the worst wind Greyrocks has ever experienced here! We eventually ventured out to Atoli, where we were given substantial mezedes with every round!

 

Jolly clever Covid seating plan, Teach!

The wind has eased since then so it was not a problem at the 70th birthday party at The Wave. Fifteen "boomers" - of whom nearly half had been teachers - were cunningly arranged to meet Crete's Covid restrictions but see everyone else! Unfortunately plans to borrow at least one guitar fell flat, and no-one thought to bring a speaker so musical activity was a bit limited. And of course everything had to stop at midnight! So not quite like all those other YiayiaGaga socials!

Halfway but it's almost full circle!

Yesterday was Day 50 of Greyrocks' 2020 stay in Crete, and thus the halfway point; but bizarrely it felt as if we were back at the beginning. The weather has been very good with plenty of beach time and very attractive sea, but up until Sunday the town (village) and beach would be described as busy. On Limnaki beach there had been a weekend of full sunbed occupation, plenty of bathers - some with inflatables - and the cantina full all day and noisy with big family groups. We strolled down there yesterday at midday and it was as quiet as it had been in the first half of July, but more striking as back then far fewer umbrellas ans beds had been installed! It seems to be the Skandies that are missing! Also views are changing on "September Brits", with known cancellations and an announcement that self-isolation will be necessary on return being a very real fear. Ruth has been tracking the moving average of Greek daily infection numbers, and it is not looking good!

Then mid-afternoon Chloë rises from her sunbed to report an incoming alert on her phone about "new restrictions". They apply only to the prefecture of Chania and have started this morning at 6 am and will be in force until the end of the month.

The new measures

• Gatherings of more than 9 people are prohibited
• The maximum number of people per table in restaurants is 4, unless they are first-degree relatives in which case up to 6 people are allowed
• Mandatory use of mask indoors and outdoors
• Suspension of any kind of events
• Bars and Tavernas are closed from 12:00 pm until 7:00 am..

This last measure is significant in that the previous run of midnight curfews in Athens and holiday areas (see last post) expired on Sunday night, and Ruth had spent time trying to establish whether it was to be extended!

Last week there was a "Gavdos scare" with two suspected cases on the island where hygiene can be dodgy and non-conformity is the norm, but they proved to be negative. Daily cases within the prefecture have been running within the range 0 to 4, so this imposition based on (as of Sunday) 33 cases for a resident population of around 80,000 seems a bit excessive!

We four are going up the mountain today to Azogires to clear our heads!

A glut of pumpkins, frogs and mice???

The week of exits, entrances, a new curfew 

and the dreaded 15th!

On 12th we said "Goodbye and Kalo Taxidi" to Chris and Penny from York, who had been in town for ten days, and "Hello and Kalos Irthate" to Chloë, Jack and three friends who are still here.
There had been an initial problem over the arrival by bus from Chania of Chris and Penny. On a Sunday there was - then - just a single bus in each direction per day! We sat at the delightful Mantos to wait and a bus arrived - rather early we thought! A crowd disembarked but not our friends! The mystery was solved when we received a message that they were just leaving Kandanos! An extra bus had been arranged leaving 20 minutes after the initial one.They thought they were on the express but something had upset that!

Dig that crazy train-themed mask!

We largely spent the days separately with them preferring to swim from sunbeds on the town beach, but we did two day trips together: first by taxi to Houmas where the sea was perfect and the lunch well up to standard, plus another taxi trip to Azogires on a very windy day. It was so windy, in fact, that it was difficult to walk, so Ruth copped out of a walk to the waterfall. This turned out to be wise as the others returned to the Alpha in a state of shock and relief that there were no major injuries. After lunch a more reasonable walk took place and we visited the little gallery. Lucky was in fine form and adoring of both wife and daughter! 

The last night of Chris and Penny's stay coincided with the first "midnight curfew", A tougher one had just been introduced on the island of Poros, but this was for much of Greece -although not initially Athens - and required all bars and restaurants to be clear of customers by 12 pm (until 7 am), It was to stay in force until 23rd, but has now been extended. We four ate that evening at the Palm Tree so were just a little way from the "crossroads of chaos".  We took a short exploratory walk in the final hour and saw that places were crammed. Third Eye let us have a round of drinks and we left on time with others in evidence on the homeward trek!

The next night was - therefore - going to be a challenge! The five "kids" were due to arrive by taxi from the port at Souda somewhat after midnight! After seeing Chris and Penny off on the bus to Chania we ate at Maria's to collect keys and went home to prepare a bag of drinks and snacks and then took it over to the stony side . We arrived just after the taxi! We (the family) sat on the wall in the light of the moon with plastic glasses and heard about their time in Athens.

Chloë has a list of things to do and places to visit and we are working our way through it - particularly as the other three have left this morning! She is also super-cautious on the Co-vid front! Unfortunate as the holiday weekend started very soon after arrival! A couple of places where we might have spent late evenings are so unacceptably full at the moment that even Greyrocks baulks at going to them. It is the weekend effect heightened by Greek visitors for the holiday, a sense that a heavy lockdown is around the corner and desperation created by the curfew. After the town bell sounds there is a flood of "the young" down to the sandy beach via the periptero which stays open until 2 am, and what the Spanish call botellones happen - unfortunately leaving mess for the beach boys to clear in the morning!

The "haj" down Palm Tree Road was most striking on Friday and Saturday nights as part of the "Dreaded 15th". As the date approached there was speculation that the influx of people would only last until Monday, but we are still experiencing it in terms of crowded cheaper restaurants and appalling parking manners! We have never seen so many cars in town with Y or Z number plates! 

A technical glitch!

Not many barely-competent bloggers get a Cambridge professor sorting out their technical messes, but Greyrocks did, so a big Thank You to Johnny:- have another Mythos!
If you could not access the restaurant list in the penultimate post, try again  - it is now a pdf file and more phone-friendly!
(And Atoli has since started opening in the evening when demand is evident!)

"Pretend we're not British!"

It is four weeks today since Greyrocks set off from the safety of Fuerteventura, and it has been a month of huge unpredictability in terms of the impact of national policies on our  summer stay. Posts here document the "long and winding road" that brought us here, and the relaxed but uncanny lifestyle we found.

Yesterday we went to Limnaki beach as usual. Yiannis has been installing more parasols and sunbeds every few days but at 1 pm - on a beautiful calm day - no more than ten sets were occupied and the sea in the area was almost empty of bathers! Why?

Later we visited the cantina and for half an hour we were the lone punters! The huge Irish clan arrived to save the day. The consensus is that there had been a significant "changeover" of tourists of some significant origin:- maybe Austrian; and the locals hadn't come because the car park was inaccessible due to road resurfacing. Not what was needed to keep a precarious business afloat! 

Dreamliners to Crete?

We have been aware of "mother tongue" English being spoken on very few occasions. There are still the "hard-core" very long stayer or resident Brits and the free-to-travel Irish enthusiasts, but otherwise  just a smattering of middle-class English (sic) families! We had expected that from 15th there would be an influx - but none is evident in spite of the existence of flights into Chania from many English (again, sic) airports. Greyrocks does its best to help by receiving friends from York on Sunday and a party of five via Athens later in August! Then, everything changed with regard to British holiday-makers with the "Spanish Imposition"! There is now a more realistic expectation that Greece will be the destination of choice , and TUI has announced extra flights or up-sizing of aircraft- including to Crete from tomorrow.

Sweden was on the "dirty list" with UK, and not removed until 20th, but we have seen little effect here - when this has always been a significant source of tourism in the village. Finns are discouraged, Austrians must be tested before returning home. We can't tell our Czechs from our Poles - our Slovenians from our Slovaks so further speculation is futile! 

At a selfish level this low level of beach-orientated tourism is delightful - but the village needs them back in numbers so "fingers crossed" for some improvement! Incidentally, the indications are that - unless something goes terribly wrong - September will see a huge influx of Brits - and possibly Germans - so get that flight and/or room booked now (and maybe bring your own sunbed and umbrella)!

 

As for Fuerteventura we were incensed by the UK's discouragement to travel to the Whole of Spain and quarantine for those returning. Contrast that with nuanced advice and rules in force for other European countries. Don't these politicians look at the data, and haven't they got an atlas? Their performance is beyond satire, but we are nonetheless immensely grateful to John Crace in the Guardian, whose take on those lying morons Shapps and Gove has had Greyrocks in stitches. When we return to our island in October it may be in ruins! All part of the plan - of course - Gibraltar and other Brexit "negotiations"!

"Vamos a la Playa"

"Where shall we eat tonight?" : open. opening soon, opening sometimes and gone for good!

With luck there will be live music, too!

With the strange pattern of potential clientele, table-spacing issues and other regulations it has not been easy for restaurateurs to decide when to re-open for the season. Greyrocks has now walked past all those in the village except the "outliers" of  Aposperida and Vrissali. 

Arriving on a Sunday evening we saw that most - but my no means all - of the long-standing tavernas and grill-houses were operating and had customers. We went to "The Brothers" - officially the "Family Grill"  to grab gyros, and got the flavour of how eating out was going to be,

This is one of the places that would be popular with the Chaniot day-trippers or overnighters, being cheap, large enough to take family groups and offering dishes with no surprises, so it has certainly been worth opening at weekends, and most have been open all evenings. We asked Adonis about business and he told us that the Family Grill stayed open until around 2 am on two consecutive weekend nights 

Here is the Greyrocks list of places to eat in the evening with indications of their genre and availability in these times! The red ones are our favourites! 

There have been other casualties in the "snack bar" sector: Anemos - a cosy bar in the centre with good music and popular desserts, and Papagalo on the Sandy side will not be opening,

"What a difference two weeks makes!"

Free beer during the big
clea at the cantina

This is the traditional "resort report", but with a Co-vid twist. If you are intending to visit you may prefer to skip this post as it is full of "spoilers"

Greyrocks has been here in Paleochora for  over two weeks and in that time there have been changes - nearly all for the better - in a number of areas of interest to those who love the place.

First a very evident negative feature and one that is unlikely to be remedied this season: topography of the beach.There has never been so much exposed rock at the seashore on the sandy side.  Something about the wind force and direction has swept the sand towards the Castello where it sits or drifts off to Libya. We are told there needs to be official action to bring it back to the other end of the bay, but this is not a priority this time round. There are plenty of places for entry to the sea on the main "town" beach of Pachia Ammos. On Greyrocks' customary beach - Limnaki - sea entry is about as easy as last year with one narrow passage well known to aficionados, and a "sandy bottom" once in! Walking along at the shore, however, is somewhat perilous! (A picture of this would be informative, but impossible to take under naturist beach protocol!)

Now there are two

The absence of a layer of sand is in part responsible for aspects of beach fixtures and fittings because parasols cannot be "simply" dug in,  Thus the very sturdy sort with foliage tops and thick wooden posts now dominate. The "town" beach has had plenty of beach furniture since we arrived - particularly the patches managed by Veggera and Atoli. Across the two weeks the fancy beds and mattresses have been added, along with bits of artificial grass and the option to erect green netting around a phalanx of sunbeds when the wind is troublesome (which it was last week and now)  This weekend Manolis at Atoli began his water fun activities:- not too many punters as yet.

Cantina and beach 6th July

Meanwhile down at Limnaki Beach... we have witnessed almost all the developments in the fortnight! We walked first to the cantina where the only sign of life was three puppies, and the only furniture a sorry white plastic chair! On the beach there were five other people. A couple were using mystery sunbeds and the only artificial shade - the permanent parasol used by the "sunbed man" -  was in use.  We found the way into the sea -but it was a brief dip! Two days later there was a line of heavy duty posts at the back of the beach near "our tree". A few more people were carrying beds from the vast pile at the Europa to use near the entry point (quite a walk!) Then John helped us get our beds out of storage and down to the usual spot and that was us sorted for the summer!  Next, the tops were put on the parasols, and then sunbeds arrived. Not many and - on some days not all occupied, but looking more "normal" and now chargeable! In the last few days half a dozen more sets have appeared - but all still to the west of our tree. With his cousin and nephew no longer available for sunbed duty Yiannis is currently combining collection of fees with work at the cantina. If - as predicted - there is to be a surge of Brit and Skandie serious beach folk in August and especially September this could be a struggle! Current sunbed count on Limnaki: 6 "sets" in the  textile area next to the cantina, 9 sets between there and our tree, and a few loose beds round the disused worker's permanent parasol.

The new improved
cantina annexe

Rapid, also has been the "rising of the phoenix from the ashes" that is the Limnaki cantina. Daily inspections revealed that early morning work was soon under way beyond 6th July with first freezers and then the wooden furniture arriving, The tables have to be more distant from each other, so - in part to compensate and also to make the whole venture more attractive - Yiannis proudly showed us how he had cleared and levelled a large area to the side and back of the van. for future expansion. By Monday the main bit was "up and running" with masked staff, but we were having a MOTH day so didn't stay long, Tuesday was a beautiful day so we planned ahead and took pastries from the bakery to be our lunch! As we consumed them with our Fix beer we saw food being served! Way ahead of schedule they are offering "toasts" and two types of salad! We felt slightly embarrassed at importing our own food, but toasted a successful half-season with some nicely chilled white wine! Utter delight for Greyrocks! Such a shame there was a Force 6 wind the next day!

Jetee's expanding empire

Until that point we had fewer options for refreshment on the "Sandy side". In the very busy section Veggera and Atoli have invested heavily as detailed above, and Palm Tree too has some nice new furniture on their beach annexe, and has been open from the beginning of our stay, winding down at about 6 pm when the fine dining operation wold normally take over, but that is news for the next bit! Castello at the extreme end is open during the day, but we haven't yet visited, Zygos is due to open this Sunday (26th) with measures to overcome crowding at and of tables, and Jetee has had substantial construction work to extend seating space further into the beach and volleyball area. Regulars find the absence of stools at the bar a problem, and the video music is very quiet or non-existent, but the staff are some of the best! They currently close at sunset, but do pretty well during the day - with a lot of local youth!

Sample arrivals: Today at Chania

Greyrocks is being asked about visitor numbers, and perhaps the most striking aspect is the contrast for each of the weeks is how the village fills at the weekend. Numerous family groups - some very large - come down from Chania for a long day or stay one night. They drive - of course - and there is a real shortage of parking space, and they accumulate in the central beach area and eat at the cheapest places, so at times it feels like normal high season. And then they go! Otherwise staying holidaymakers form mixed picture by nationality! We have surprised folk by arriving ahead of the July 15th opening to UK flights. (By coming from Spain!) That date did not seem to make a great deal of difference, as there are still very few Brits, or perhaps they are not advertising their provenance! Norwegians have started to arrive, but Austrians and Germans have been here in small numbers since we arrived. We await the Swedes. A Dublin flight was used by a long term couple as a route back to UK, and each one since has brought in folk we know. The French and Italians are increasing in numbers, but it may be a bit early for large numbers. We do not expect many Finns. There seem to be organised groups of Czechs or Slovaks. We met a lovely Dutch couple last week - on their way to Gavdos from their second home near Matala.

One factor deterring some regulars is the extent to which hygiene measures are applied. Our observation is "patchy"! When we arrived at the tourist room we occupy there were notes on cleansing routines used, sanitised item from towels to remote controls sealed in plastic and bottles of sanitiser. Rooms are not routinely cleaned: this must be requested, so this was reassuring. Most bars have cut down on tables and the numbers at each were initially restricted but apparently that no longer applies. Most have plenty of sanitiser around. All waiting-on staff must wear face coverings and this has led - during our time here - to an outbreak of chin-fixed visors as modelled here by Adonis at the Family Grill. Most places have changed practices with regard to table-top items: wrapped cutlery and condiments, for example, and some have QR coded menus and greater use of chalkboards. As of this Monday there is EUR 150 fine for customers not wearing a face covering in supermarkets. As yet the approach to that is "relaxed"!

The next post will consider the restaurants of the village and their opening policies. For now this one needs to be published!