It's our turn now!

It is generally agreed hereabouts that the winter has been one of the best for many years. Through January there have been some windy (and therefore barely beachable) days, and the nights have frequently been at no more than 13deg C - which is low for us; but there has been a lot of sunshine. We had a day trip by bus to El Cotillo (still looking like a ghost town, but with a lot of charm and excellent fish restaurants!), and had our first sunbathing Oliva Beach day of the calendar year on 18th January - unseasonable early! Next day the Winter Fuel Payment arrived - a nice little touch! We had a few more beautiful days, and then the clouds started to gather. We were off for dinner with Cake Eileen and Chris the Fish on a Friday evening and had walked 100m when it started to rain, and then it poured! We raced into the Rock for shelter, and eventually we were able to continue on, but this was the start of a really bad patch of weather, which persists. This is - of course - all relative:- with floods and deaths in Oz, Northern Europe freezing, and even peninsular Spain suffering very cold temperatures one should - as they - not grumble; but fleeces, closed shoes and long trousers have been seen; and it makes the smoking ban somewhat more uncomfortable for those in exile from bars.

This is Gran Canaria, but you get the picture!

Last Monday Ruth agreed to do an extra radio programme on the Wednesday. That day we had our final jabs, enjoyed some time in the Rock and remarked on the heavy cloud, and went home! At 3 am of Tuesday many folk (including Ruth) were woken up by the rain and thunder.This was impressive! Next day no Hot FM. The studio had gone under 5cm of water and the electrics were no more. It was off the air all day. On Wednesday - with the rain stopped, but very strong winds, Ruth thought there would be no need for her services down at the studio, but Val got going by 11am using her own MP3 player. Ruth went down there in case she could be useful and was able to operate in near normal conditions by noon. There has, however, been occasional rain ever since, and some grim cold wind.  Friday's theme was Wind, and yes, it is possible to find 24 tracks on the subject. The mystery person was Hurricane Higgins, and there were plenty of punters!

Now we are engaged in planning and packing for the Goa trip, which starts on Wednesday, and departure from this slightly depressing island seems timely!

2011 - A breath of (icy) fresh air!

A HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR

TO OUR READER(S)!

Here on Fraggle Rock we are returning to normality with the kids back at school since Monday and the very slow removal of the seasonal decorations around town and in shops, bars and restaurants.

At Blue Rock the theme has been "Ice". Claire and her helpers made plastic ice cubes with intricate enclosed card snowflakes, only to have a couple whipped from outside overnight! Thereafter they were taken in each night. Inside was a model fisherman in arctic dress with snowballs and a seal;  and as you see there were plenty of frosted twigs!

It was here that we spent the early hours of 2011. We had seen in the New Year as guests of Mike and Liz. We were at a very full Casa Manolo, and enjoyed some excellent lamb, a great deal of El Coto Rioja, some cava and grapes at midnight, and the company of DJs Snowy and Sammy. We missed the Chilean rock band in the Plaza, and there were - once again - no council fireworks, but we just had to stop off at the Rock on the way home. There we joined a jolly Brit party. This included Boat Mike, who at 2 or so in the morning decided to buy and share a Cadbury's selection box causing raucous behaviour over the finger of fudge! This may or may not have anything to do with the fact that Ruth limped home with a pain in knee and groin, that kept us at home most of New Year's Day, so that we missed Chris the Fish's huge stuffed and salted tuna.

Sunday the 2nd was a watershed day for all of Spain! There had been virtually no prior publicity, but the start of the smoking ban did - on the day itself - make it to the UK news - heralded as one of the strictest in Europe! When asked about it the previous night the guy at Manolo's said they had not received any paperwork so would not be taking any action. Ruth had it as her theme for the show on New Year's Eve, playing such goodies as:

• Every Breath you Take
• Smoke gets in your Eyes
• Give it Up
• Virginia Plain
• Roll it to Me... you get the idea, and with Al and Val the proprietors away in UK, there was also The Other Man's Grass, and Don't Bogart that Joint!

The British and Irish bars are sticky to the rules (no smoking in any enclosed space), but the hunch was that the local bars would get way with it; but no!! The news on the streets is that within hours a Majorero owner had been fined 9K euros. So far, so good then, and it has been a joy to go into our favourite music venues and not suffer.

The final seasonal event was, of course, Kings! This year procedures for their arrival on 5th were changed. They were not on the 11am ferry, and they were not to be seen touring town during the day. In the afternoon we were at home when there was a tremendous noise from the ferry port, signalling the arrival, and they then scooted off to the villages. We managed to escape from Dr Kirstin's (pre Goa jabs!) just in time to see them perform the innovative ritual. At 6.30 or so (just after sunset) four small boats came round from the harbour to "Wai Kiki" beach. In turn a king  was tranferred to a smaller boat and taken to the shore. Each was helped ashore by guys in shorts with bare feet, a flare and some fireworks were let off and he did his traditional sweet throwing, kissing and posing. The camels had been brought down to the beach by the Corintia, and the procession set off from there (thus making the route considerably shorter than previously). We found a pole position for viewing it at the amusement arcade bar, and took the traditional lousy night-time photos! Otherwise the participants were the same except for a new horse-drawn cart. We skipped the kids' presentation to the kings in the Plaza, and went for a meal at the wonderful Wok! So too did an enormous number of others, including tourist smokers who were politely asked to go outside, and locals who weren't!

Ruth did an extra show on Kings' Day and the theme was "Stars" to acknowledge that they were - allegedly - astrologers. This was great fun and the audience participated in suggesting tracks which reference the "difficult" signs of Cancer and Capricorn. The latter
was solved by Kid Creole! What a clever lot they are!

And the weather over the Festive Season has been magnificent!

Aquatic Camels and an Erratic Iguana!

 Chloe stayed until 26th. The weather was pretty good, and she got in some serious sunbathing on the roof; but she was working very hard on Uni assessments and had little interest in trips out. For evening relaxation Ruth taught her to knit, and she started on a muti-coloured scarf for the man of the moment.

To spare our sanity we did not go on a goose hunt, but instead cooked for our Christmas Eve meal one of the Brighton pheasants and a veggie nut Wellington. Then on Christmas Day - when the sun shone beautifully we were at Blue Rock in the afternoon and La Tasca in the evening. Exquisite beef once again and - we suspect- an oversized piece! Afterwards we went in search of live music, but found nothing of quality, so it was up to Rosie O'Grady's where Dave n Pete were in action. This turned out to be "the place to be" as it filled up, and the Blue Rock crowd hoved in after closing their own bar. We returned home in a bad way, with the prospect of the airport next day!

We got a lift down with Chris the Fish and Cakes Eileen, and during the wait there was re-packing, and a rush job on the knitted scarf so the lethal needles could go in the hold luggage.

The new terminal must be one of Europe's transport follies. It was extended at enormous cost and opened last year, but is absurdly large! As the most significant carrier is Ryanair (Grrr!!) with its online check-in and low staffing policy there is no call for all the new desks, and people rattle around like peas. And with the crisis the catering outlets are mostly empty, but always somehow under-staffed. It is, however, currently festive! There is a large aquarium along one wall, and for Christmas we have models of the Three Kings etc neatly placed within them for the fish to negtiate. Bizarre!

And on the subject of unsettling animals:-

On the afternoon of New Year's Eve we came back from a Bratwurst at Curry Peter's (aus Berlin) to find neighbour Pete outside his door in conversation with Argentine Javier from a few doors down. "Have you got an iguana?" he asked us. There then followed a very silly conversation centring on the edibility of, Council responsibilty for, and athletic capabilities of - iguanas! He had found one on his roof terrace and was looking for the owner. It turned out to be a member of the dysfunctional family in the diagonally opposite corner of the complex, so the creature had  walked along the parapet some 80 metres.

We are the champion (and the dead loss)!

We had two weeks or so between the return from GC and the arrival of Chloe. In the middle we embarked on the repair of the raised tiles in the kitchen. Our janitor (who is Uruguayan and has no English) came round, inspected and returned twice with friends for further consulations about how many tiles would have to be lifted and reset. We agreed it would be started on a Sunday morning so we warned neighbours about the noise and cleared the floor and surfaces. The noise and mess was appalling and we were exiles from the kitchen overnight and through the next morning - unable even to get to the wine glasses!

They did a beautiful job, however, with only one cracked tile from the whole exposed floor. We were then faced with the task of emptying every cupboard and drawer, and washing every single item from them.

For Chloe's arrival we borrowed Mike's older car and went down to Puerto del Rosario ahead of time. With us we had our carefully completed applications for Indian visas which needed to be sent by courier to Madrid, as part of a contorted and costly process. (We are planning three weeks in Goa in February with Airmiles collected over many, many years). We then went to the (fairly) newly opened Lidl. We have never seen anything like this on the island. A trolleyful of goodies was purchased and shoved into the boot. We headed for the airport anticipating a liesurely coffee, but as we went through the ticket barrier thare was a terrifying noise from under the bonnet. By the time we reached a parking spot there was dark smoke and a puddle of something underneath. So Chloe's punctual and jolly arrival was preceded and followed by numerous phone calls and the wait for the "grua" man. It was the final demise of the power steering and could have happened any time. There was no room for all three, the luggage and the (extensive) shopping, but as we pondered the bus options we were hailed by Cakes Eileen who was there picking up her auntie. What Luck! Ruth and Chloe and the Lidl booty got a lift to the door.

On Sunday 19th there were mince pies and mulled wine at Hot FM in the morning, followed by the "works outing". Dear Al and Val - the owners - paid for DJs and partners to bowl at CC Papagayo. We were teamed with Geordie John and Catwoman Lynne, and each of us carried away a prize. Bob took the trophy for best score, Lynne that for best girl's performance, John for runner-up and Ruth for an embarrassing lowest score overall. This was the inevitable result of having developed an unwanted spin that intrigued all onlookers. She is very good at Bowling on a Wii! A good night out! The station will be closed on 25th and 26th as so many DJs will be off the island, but Ruth is doing two extra shows (Thursdays 23rd and 30th 12 till 2) to help out. There will be no Christmas songs on her watch!

Those that can, Gran Can!

On November 22nd we flew to Gran Canaria on cheap residents' tickets, and there spent three pleasant days in Las Palmas. We eschewed this time the smelly Astoria and its bearpit breakfast room in favour of a self-catering apartment superbly located in Santa Catalina. This was a bit basic but very good value, From there it was but a few paces to Galia, where we celebrated Bob's birthday and the arrivee of the Beaujolais Nouveau! Worth the air fare just for that (the meal that is!)!

We had a good few strolls along the Canteras prom in some beautiful sunshine - though this display does rather exaggerate! It was more like 28! We also went to the previously unexplored  north end of the beach and found another of the city's bronze and very realistic statues. You could almost believe that Chris the Fish was also on a short break!

Las Palmas continues to impress! We used the efficient and cheap bus to go to the other part of the city (San Telmo) and saw the new pedestrianisation near the cathedral; but we also found a new holder for "Worst Chinese Buffet in the World" title. It needed to be amazingly bad to supplant the one in Caleta de Fuste - and it was!

On the fourth day we took the bus down to Maspalomas. We had been forced to change from our usual tourist complex as we could not make bookings - even by ringing up, but in fact we were impressed by what we did find - particularly for the price. The weather was not as good by the time we got down South, and it remained too windy throughout for the beach and sea. On the first evening we strolled over to the strange Faro 2 centre with many ideas for eating. The first bar we encountered was permanently closed, and the next... The Dutch guys with a little drinks hut in the middle told us that almost everything had been closed. The whole upper story was empty - and that meant several of the places we liked were gone. The cause is a combination of the developer's suspicious behaviour, and the closure of many of the bungalow complexes that surround it. So that explained a few things! We found an adequate substitute restaurant, but again we remarked on the irritating attitude of the waiters in these resorts!

On Sunday the weather was threatening and we retreated to the complex. During Sunday night there was a huge storm. In the morning there was no rain and Bob went forth to the supermarket. Suddenly  the heavens opened. He could find no shelter so returned like a drowned rat. It rained for 24 hours! We were comfortable enough in our little duplex with a wine supply, old TV programs on the laptop and Canarian TV's news on the storm. It was worse in Tenerife, and not so dramatic back home in Fuerte! In the evening folk were waiting half an hour for taxis to take them around. We untypically but usefully used the voucher for a free buffet dinner on site and waited to see out the rain. In true Canarian style by the next lunchtime there was warm sunshine and a blue sky. On the Thursday we took a bus back to the road outside the airport and struggled down the verge:- a neat trick to avoid crowds on sparse proper airport ones! Then we flew back - content with the break, but sure we had chosen the right island as home!

Comings and Goings in Corralejo

Almost five weeks now, and we have had wonderful weather:- just a few overcast mornings, some brief showers and a gradual onset of colder evenings and nights (although we still haven't needed a duvet). Mostly, however, afternoon temperatures have been above 24C - so many rays have been absorbed! Early on we went to Oliva beach for the day and we have never seen it so crowded. So - to the news:-

1. Prettifications of the Old Town

In our absence the re-paving and closing off to traffic of the Rogues Gallery road was completed and the much-trodden route to the Blue Rock was clear of hazards for our first few days and nights. This did not last! The rumour was that the vast piles of slabs nearby had been bought but could not be laid as there was no money for labour. In reality they did start - and it is ongoing, with yet more mess and change of level and the promise (or threat) of one or two water features. A consequence of the work so far is that Africa's chiringuito has been moved and transformed.  Her original corner is now a bare paved area which may soon be the terrace of (yet another) restaurant. She (with sister Toni) now has a purpose-built structure the other side of Antiguo Cafe del Puerto. She complains that she is more exposed to the wind there, and there is no love lost between her and "them next door", but it is still a lovely spot. Admirers have donated original decorations!

2. Several closures and some openings
General opinion is that tourism had a reasonable summer; but there has been a bit of a clear-out. The list is not exhaustive!

• Crepe Suzette is gone and is replaced by a cafe that rarely opens
• The Chinese near Blue Rock closed a few days after we visited it!
• Rincon de Perico nearby has been re-branded and has fancy furniture
• The huge mall on the old market site has surpringly opened and includes a new Spar supermarket
• Iceman has opened near the Campenario selling British foods
• There is still no-one running the corner bar below us
• La Nit has closed
• Terrazza (Casa del Carne) has changed hands and has the most unintelligible menu ever seen!
• There is a new bowling green run by the Robin's Nest
• A new British cafe has opened in the Hoplaco Gardens
• The Whereabouts dispute has meant a new name for the listings mag.
• The photographers in the Old Town has closed

3. The Day and Night of the Dead

We started Halloween night at Chablis:- a place Ruth had never graced with her presence in 18 years! She had won a Sunday Roast on the radio! Later we were at the Blue Rock, where the fruits of earlier roof-top craft work were evident in the Sandras' costumes.

November 1st is a Spanish National Holiday, and we were back at the Rock in the afternoon to say Goodbye to Ron- a quiet but regular customer both there and at Imagine! He had died in June aged 59, and his photograph has been over his usual spot in both places; but he was only recently cremated so this was his day.  A few friends scattered his ashes on the beach and poured over a beer, then a good crowd of us met for a "do" with food from the Casbah.  The odd tear was shed!

4.  Events

One Sunday we cycled up to the Campenario, where there is now quite a thriving craft market, and where, on this occasion, an International Half Marathon was finishing.

We have also had the 23rd Kite Festival down at the Dunes.

Last week saw Big Wednesday - when surfers went wild as waves reached 5.2 metres, and novices clashed with experts.

5. Don't stop the Music!

There has been a campaign against live music, with several closures and fines, but Rock Island and Imagine continue to offer excellent acoustic sessions, albeit with some changes of personnel. Wednesday and Sunday at Imagine feature Foreplay - Eric, Chris, Ronnie and Sue, who are superb, and down at the island Johnny from Brighton is on very regularly. Soon after we arrived we heard he and Niki had successfully brought their boat here, so we went down to the harbour to find them, and hear some of their tales of the voyage.  

And Ruth is back on the Radio. The new slot is 12 noon to 2pm on Fridays, and Mike at the Casbah is still sponsoring the show so the quiz is alive and kicking. Tune in and have a go!

Local Herault - in praise of Agde!

The last phase of the migration was spent in a location new to us, but recommended by trusted sources.

Agde is allegedly the oldest town in France, and together with its outpost at the mouth of the river Herault (Grau d'Agde), and its seaside area (Cap d'Agde) it makes a delightful place to stay. It has good (flat) cycle tracks, beautiful beaches and a vast array of restaurants. It is also on the Canal du Midi, which is a further plus!

We stayed nine nights, and the weather was glorious for October (except for the two days mentioned previously). It is very popular with the pan-European "grey" motor-home set, and the town lifts the restriction on their parking at the end of the summer making the beach car parks look like a rally of same!

Restaurants line the river at its mouth, and in the town, and around the huge marina. On the very soggy Sunday we drove to Grau and ran into a fairly randomly chosen one. What a delight - there can be no better way to deal with a wet Sunday than to lurk for hours over a French prix fixe meal!

.. but for several other days - as pensioners - we sought out the delights of hypermarket cafeterias for meals. They may not be traditional but we had some fine and very good value meals in Crescendo at the Casino site. and found a new chain - Poivre Vert - which has a seafood buffet on Fridays.  On the Saturday (16th) we cleaned up, took sheets to the laundrette and headed for Spain. Easy! We had booked into the Novotel near Girona airport - and after a picnic lunch we headed back towards Girona to find the Fiat dealer we had discovered online. Oh dear! No printer, so no map! No numbers on roadsigns - a lot of stress - a lot of wrestling with Catalan when enquiring about it - but eventually a result!  We had a good look over the new Doblo, and got all the information we needed about purchasing one in Spain, Something to think about!

We got a value meal in the old Vilobi hotel (Novotel menu was a joke!), lost 7kg of luggage after a trial weigh-in and  dropped off the car the next day with the usual ease, leaving us with hours to spend at Girona airport. Fortunately the sun shone and we had the remains of a wine-box needing disposal! Unfortunately our flight to Lanzarote was delayed by almost an hour. Still, we had vastly over-estimated the journey time from airport to ferry terminal, and the booked transfer was so fast that rather than missing the (last) 7pm ferry, we made it in time for the 6pm fast Olsen. This was our first time on this one and it really is fast:- under 20 minutes - so we were back home with the sun still shining. As we walked under our block neighbours in three different homes shouted greetings.