Reasons to be Cheerful

July so far has been a series of delightful experiences!
First there was Anna's 50th birthday party. She had invited us personally when were at the Jetée on Ruth's 60th, when she said that husband Sifi (not short of a bob or two!) wanted to make it a big "do" and that quite a few of her Australian family would be there. We were surprised, though, when in the days before some posters went up, thus making it a very public affair. No price, no time, no mention of the catering, and even the bar staff seemed confused! It was a very hot day, with strange wave movements, so we were happy to leave the sunbeds early to investigate. There were huge speakers and a mixing desk. The music was unremarkable contemporary dance, and in a short time dozens of local young people turned up. We decided we had got the wrong end of the stick and took ourselves off for some food, from where we could hear the music very clearly. A bit before 9pm we went back to Zygos, had a chat to Olga and Stephen, and decided this was a no-no function, but whilst we were distracted something changed and we suddenly heard music much more to our taste, and and in response out traipsed the youth! We went back in and spent a very pleasant evening, with Anna and the Aussies having a boogie to a really well-selected playlist. We left at about 1pm, and understand the plug was pulled by the police a little later!

.. and the next evening there was more! We had seen small posters advertising a session with Carl Wyatt and Archie Lee Hooker at (of all places) Azogires. The mind boggled at the descent from there in the early hours! But it transpired that they would also be at the Atoli on Sunday 3rd.  And it was a stonker! Carl Wyatt from Ireland was on all evening with a keyboard player and percusssion, playing Delta Blues; and later they were joined by Archie Lee Hooker, who is the nephew of John Lee Hooker. This raised the level yet further. The place was heaving, and the consensus was that we would have paid good money for the performance. It seems they were on holiday and did just three gigs on Crete! What luck!

..and on the subject of "cooking on gas"

.. last Tuesday was the day of the big fish soup! The Kandonites have regularly organised pilafi meals of chicken or goat at their favourite tavernas. This time - in part as several of the guests don't eat meat - we partook of the traditional fish soup. This can be bought in some Paleochora restaurants, but is best cooked in quantity. This one was for ten, but would have served thirty! Three British couples went up to Kandanos on the noon bus, to join A&P and another French couple. We ate in shade in the plateia outside the taverna of Ilios - who was a ship's cook for 11 years. He serves the broth and rice in individual bowls, and then the fish (red snapper in this case) and many vegetables are added to taste by the punters, and it just keeps coming! Delicious - and great value!

A bit of Pathos - and other cats (some fat!)

Well, no! Not very!

When we got back in May it took only a matter of hours for Scaredy to find out and come up to tentatively visit. He/she has clearly had at least one other source of sustinence - no weight loss here in six months! - but this black cat has a certain charm, so we shared the balcony and put out odd bits of food. However things have changed! A couple of weeks ago a mother with two kittens arrived, hung around and soon disappeared. Then we were visited by what we think is a kitten from the same litter, but alone, too small to be away from its mother, hungry and wailing. We relented and fed it, knowing that we would soon be away in Matala for almost four days and the Spartan approach would have to be adopted. On our return it was back, so we are now reluctant foster-parents! We are not sure of its gender, and it still wails and does endearing things, so its name shall be Pathos. In Greek style it is not allowed in the apartment, and with upcoming absences it is going to have to fend for itself eventually, but we have given it a fighting chance. Scaredy has taken umbrage and has not been seen for some time. A pregnant thing so ugly only its own mother would love her has been dropping by.

And so what - you ask - of the Fat Cats and the Greek crisis? The effects in the village are not very great. There was a power cut of exactly 40 minutes one evening as scheduled during the electricity workers' strike, and some panic when the air traffic controllers were on strike on transfer day Tuesday last week. There was a window in the middle of the day for charter flights, so disruption to arriving and leaving Brits seems to have been minimal. What can you say? People are angry! We have watched the footage of demonstrations in Athens - modelled on the Arab Spring and Madrid, but with some Greek police heavy-handedness, and there is no easy answer! As foreigners we have a collection of examples of minor fiddles at worker and/or small business level, but this is in the context of major political corruption and self-delusion, not least over the entry into the Euro. Grrrr! There is some frank and rude dual language grafitti on the road to Kandanos, telling the IMF and EU what to do. It is painted on the new walls beside the new road - paid for by the - yes - EU!

.. and the most interesting ideas revolve around "doing a Hungary" - and refusing to play ball whereby assets are globalised and the ordinary Greeks suffer such austerity.

There is a very considered analysis by Robert Peston of the BBC

and also from the BBC's Now Show - our "Joke of the Week"

"Production of tsatsiki and taramasalata is to be regulated to avoid a double dip recession"

Siga, siga!

"By the time we got to Phaestos..

.. we were half a busload strong!"
On Ruth's birthday there was a sighting of Angel Skordilis of classic rock fame. He was jamming in Cosmogonia, looked well and left in his wake a poster telling of a forthcoming appearance (with band) at the final concert of a Hippie Reunion Festival in Matala. We were onto the case like greased lightning. A German guy has written a book, which was to be launched, and the dimos (local council) had helped organise this with free camping, loads of free music, street sellers .. We had to go, but in one of life's little tricks -  on the first real occasion in four years when a car and camping kit would have been useful we had left them in secure parking in Girona! A flurry of planning around buses and rooms ensued, including seeking guidance from the very useful Living in Crete forum.


So on Saturday we were on the 7.15 bus to Chania. Then followed Rethymon - with a mad dash and pleading - to get immediately onto a bus for Agia Galini, a wait in a nice cafe, a bus to Mires, and a chaotic but effective connection with the bus to Matala. By this stage there was indeed half a busload - mostly under 25 years, but dressed for the part! It was about 2.55! We had managed to book a room - although it wasn't easy, and when we discovered the faults we were just grateful to have a roof over our heads. In any case we didn't spend much time there. We were last in Matala in 1987 - well past the Hippie period. There have been a few changes!!!

• A few more medium-sized hotels have been built, and - we believe - had a life with package companies that is now over. This is handy as we found one such to use for daytime relaxation away from the crowds.
• The whole souvenir thing has gone mad, with dozens of shops selling the same things - presumably to the many day-trippers! 
• There is now a good supermarket, where we bought some Beaujolais!
• The caves are now not only open but beautifully lit at night. (They were covered with wire netting on our last visit)
• There is a magnificent tree sculpture
• For the Festival - but possibly to stay - dozens of pavement paintings on Flower Power themes have been made:- particularly in the prettified plateia.

The programme for the festival revolved around daytime Sixties and Seventies music selected by local radio DJs, followed by "back to back" bands into the early hours, and then a beach party with modern dance music. The bands played a very wide variety of music including some reggae, funk, Greek bazouki rock and -of course- a lot of Classic Rock. On the first evening after dark we were eating in a seaside taverna when the music suddenly stopped, and thoughts turned to that Cretan classic:- the power cut! But no! There followed a wonderful firework display over the caves and behind the stage, culminating in an illuminated CND symbol high up on the cliff! There were similar displays on both the next evenings.

We spent long spells in The Lion's Cafe which gave a beautifully clear (if long range) view to the stage - rather better we think than at Glast or even Cropredy - and had cheap wine. We were suddenly brought some more which had been inexplicably bought by a neighbouring party of youngish people from Heraklion. We think they must have believed we were real old hippies (as opposed to tentative weekend ones!). Bob had a very long conversation with one of them, sorting out the IMF problems!

And there were two other chance encounters. On Sunday morning were sitting in the plataeia with Bob wearing his 2009 Fairport Convention Cropredy T-shirt, and saw someone wearing a ladies' one from a previous year. (This resonates with what happened in Chania in 2009!) There was a wave, and on the last night the wearer came and introduced herself, leading to a pleasant hour or so with Barry and Judy from Kalyves - who are equally keen - not only on Fairport but on Angel Skordilis! Whilst we were boogying away to Angel's superb Santana medley down on the beach by the stage Ruth received a big kiss. It was Zakis - the famous Lebanese tavli player and favourite of the ladies from Paleochora. He (well probably his partner) had driven down for the night and had spotted us.

Angel and band's set was magnificent! It started whilst we were still in our long-range eerie. The into to "Shine on you Crazy Diamond" was so good Ruth swore it was a recording, but then in came the band! Since we last saw him play Angel has taken to the small keyboard, and - as they say - it rocks!
The journey back on Tuesday was even longer in elapsed time than the outward one. (9.30 bus from Matala.. arriving Paleo 18.00!) En route we talked with a family of Greek jewellry sellers, which gave us some insight into the commercial side of the festival. Apparently the baker had made enough money to cover the whole season, but sales of non-essentials were good enough, but not impressive.

We are already thinking about Matala 2012!

Here are some images.

For the context of Joni's song click here!

Is it summer yet?

 The general consensus is that May was "disappointing", but on June 2nd a run of gloriously sunny and still days started, and the knees of workers have at last been seen. Meanwhile down on the beach it is not quite summer. The rock plates at the shore are still very exposed, and getting into the sea is very difficult, the Blue Flags have not arrived, and the mayor says that summer starts on 15th June so the cantina - newly extended and clearly ready - is not yet open, and the number of sunbeds is still inadequate. Our usual spot is dominated by very loud elderly Finns, and there is no escape!

On Saturday we celebrated Ruth's 60th birthday, with breakfast at the Almyrida (see the very scrummy avocado toast served on their birthday plate), free beers at the Jetée, beach and sea time, and then drinks and cakes with friends at Cosmogonia. There was one of those large celebration cakes with a decoration of flowers and fruits which we thought could not go wrong as with last August's! There should be a picture but technology failed, so the minor faux pas goes unrecorded visually:- the message of Happy Birthday in Greek, and the 60 was written correctly, but  the name was PUTH! A jolly time for all and ludicrously cheap!

"Ne'er cast a clout!"

Well, May went out at midnight, and we have been in Crete for two weeks casting clouts, and then rapidly putting them back on again!
The first few days were quite sunny at times, although the sea is icy and the evenings are distinctly chilly! Blankets are still needed at night! Then last week as predicted by the forecasts we lurched into a horrible few days. We had a series of dramatic thunderstorms, some high winds, deserted beaches and plenty of daytime bar activity! By this Saturday things were a bit better and down at the Jetée there was a non-traditional Greek wedding reception with beautiful flowers. In fact flowers here are glorious. The winter was apparently more "normal" than recent ones, but with a lot of rain, making the terrain very green, and on the bus ride down we saw glorious gorse and poppies.

The changes in the village since we left in September are neither numerous, nor drastic! Here we go:-

• Michaelis has finally closed the pastry shop in the main street. He now hangs aound his son's one on the sea-front, which - like many establishments - is still rather quiet.
• Meanwhile the slow church-wards shift up the main street in terms of evening activity continues with the opening of a new pastry, crepe and ice cream place on the corner where the fish shop once sat. It is very popular with the locals.
• The old periptero in the main street has been removed and the new one further down has opened. The circular paving outside the town hall has been finished and we await the re-instatement of "the statue" so familiar to many children who always played around it. The bust of some local hero disappeared last year (or was it more?)  pending all the prettifications. On our first day back we saw a hollow concrete plinth strategically placed and half-covered with stones. Shortly thereafter the stones had been stripped! Watch this space!
• Tassos is back running his Seagull after several years
• "The Hole in the Wall" - as in Giorgos - looks as if it could open any time, but hasn't when we are about.
• No new enterprises have opened, but several new buildings - homes and rooms- have been started, and there has been some investment down at the Jetée with extended and upgraded decking and plantings.
• The new clinic on the sea-front has never opened.
• The old Livicon has been fully renovated to form council offices, and looks very good. Doctor George is back as mayor now - with a considerably enlarged domain which now includes Kandanos.

• Finally - the Hatch/Match/Despatch news is that there has been an outbreak of fertility and in August and September we expect babies for Tonia at Zygos, ex-Kosmar Diane, and our neighbour Young Popi. Sadly in early May we lost Sam Reed, who was a stalwart Paleo writer, walker and character. Bob met Lucky from Azogires in the Post Office, and he was desperately upset. See his last encounter with Sam here! RIP.

"It's Tuesday - it must be...!"

.. probably Barcelona.. or possibly Athens!
This year we needed a swift migration to Crete, so the key was the new flight from B to A (and back) provided by Vueling - Iberia's low cost airline. So the route was from Girona airport by Bus to Barcelona's coach station, and a short walk to Hostal La Isla, which we had booked on line but had trouble locating in reality, as it is quite new and hidden in a residential apartment block. It is ideally located though, and we took a stroll down to Plaza de Catalunya (left) in bright sunshine, popped into Las Ramblas and then went for very pleasant tapas with a Catalan flavour. Next day we took a bus down to Catalunya and the airport bus to Terminal 1. Vueling's bag drop was instant, and despite the cheap price there are allocated and comfortable seats. A good flight, somewhat under 3 hours! We are fans! We took the airport bus directly from the terminal to the Crete gate at Piraeus port, and whilst Ruth logged on to the port's free WiFi Bob visited Lidl for French wine:- likely to be our last for some months! We had treated ourselves to a better cabin, and were allowed to board early, so it was all very relaxed, but a bit chilly on deck as the sun went down and we partook of ANEK gyros, as is traditional! Reveille at 4.50 am is also traditional, but as foot passengers we were able to hang around and disembark at leisure before getting the 7 am city bus into Chania. The bus station building has had a minor facelift and is now - of course - smoke-free, but the 8.30 bus departures are chaotic with more services and very large vehicles. We arrived in Paleo at 10.15, and were safely installed in our home by 10.30.

"Bonne Navigation!" & "Au Revoir, La France!"

 Despite attempts to avoid it and stick to sunbathing there was eventually no alternative! We had to do the (slightly) serious à deux cycle ride! We drove back up the coast to Port-La-Nouvelle, and parked next to this rather lovely mural depicting the past glory of the town. We then negotiated some repair works and found the towpath alongside the Canal de la Robine and went up and back a 13km stretch. This runs through the newly designated Nature Reserve of L'Ile de Sainte Lucie.

The topography here is intruiging! With the sea on one side and the Etang on the other the narrow spit of land at points is not much wider than the parallel canal, railway line and towpath. We saw a lot of water, some birds, a couple of cruisers and a few other cyclists. Our turning point was the lock at Mandirac, which we have previously seen by road. There is a delightful bar-restaurant there, next to a very old Dutch barge, which we wish we had known about before packing the picnic. The ride back was with a cold side wind, which unfortunately masked the very hot sun. Ruth had forgotten to put sunscreen on her face, so the next few days featured pain and disfigurement, as well as well-used leg muscles! A stupid beginner's mistake!

For our last few days in France the weather became a bit more "iffy", with a heavy rainstorm and some very high winds. Bob went exploring in a different direction and found the largest solar farm in France, and a pleasant resort with large marina at Sainte Marie. We were leaving on the Monday, so went there by car on the Sunday for a lunch of moules and assorted Catalan goodies, and in the (very chilly) evening we went to the promenade in Canet and made a quick choice of restaurant, which turned out to be a good one - except that Ruth sampled one of Bob's oysters! Oh dear!

We left La France on Monday 16th May. We crossed the Pyrenees on the E15 in fairly good weather, and went to the Fiat dealer near Girona, which had confirmed in an email that they could supply a rear windscreen wiper. The mechanic there was really helpful, and sorted it all out, and we took Yvette back to her winter home, so that we could go to Barcelona.