Flowers in the rain!

Touchdown at Las Palmas airport and the passengers walk down the steps to the bus. The shock at the temperature is audible, and no-one is dressed for this! Cabo Verde wasn't paradise, but it was sunnier than this!

Greyrocks had booked a four night stay next to the city's main and glorious Las Canteras beach. An easy and cheap transfer by Global bus and city guagua took us to the hotel, where we saw on the reception desk several print-outs from the meteo website highlighted to show that the next two days (a weekend) had orange storm warnings:- wind, rain and rough sea conditions. The hotel room was comfortable and had fast internet (at last!). It had also been chosen for proximity to the promenade, a bath-tub, and a roof-top swimming pool area. Ruth tried the bath and discovered it was too soon in the recovery for her to sit down, and clearly sunbathing - let alone swimming - was out of the question; but at least our favourite restaurant was close by, so we ate there, paid too much for a bottle of wine from the local shop and had a quiet evening of TV!

Ready for Carnaval, or just our usual?

The owner of our hotel in CV lives in Las Palmas and told us that we would be catching the very beginning of the carnival. We set off on the Saturday morning to find out more and discovered that its main static location - Santa Catalina Park - was closed to buses, but that the theme was "Flower Power". That appealed to Greyrocks much more than our local upcoming one of "Science and Inventions"! We walked quite a way round the shopping area, made a purchase in the Lighting department of El Corte Ingles, and took the bus down to San Telmo (the other half of the city!). The sun came out and we enjoyed alcohol-free beers in the park, but it didn't last! By late afternoon it was grey and very cold. An attempt at a long walk down the prom was abandoned and we ate (pretty well) close to the hotel. As we did we saw that it was raining heavily, so it was dash back!

Sunday's weather was atrocious! From the windows of the high breakfast room the view of familiar landmarks was obscured and the sea looked treacherous. Our hotel has seen more glorious times and has a vast "Cafeteria" on the ground floor. After hours of lurking in our room we decided we would go there, but found it closed with only Scandies playing cards and a vending machine! So we girded loins and ran across the road to a humble bar. We were the only foreigners there, many of the rest being single older men tucking in to a very cheap "menu del dia". After one small beer we decided to join in, and declared this to be our Sunday dinner. (Hearty soup, paella  for one and ropa vieja for the other, coffee and and a glass of wine! Great value and shelter from the storm! Nothing more needed for the evening

Monday was somewhat better, so we took the No1 guagua again and wandered round Triana before coming back to Canteras for a tapas lunch beside the sea. "This is much more like it!".  We ate again at the favourite haunt, and flew home next day to hear tales of how Fuerte had suffered a storm over the weekend!

"No Stress" in Cabo Verde

That is the persistent cry from the numerous and ubiquitous vendors of craft and tourist tat on the streets of Santa Maria on the island of Sal in Cabo Verde. The town is the main holiday resort in the nation and is where Greyrocks spent two weeks this month. We didn't find it particularly free of stress, but the venture served its main purpose of sea and sand plus better sun than the Canaries can offer at the time of year! An additional bonus is that there are now flights twice a week from Gran Canaria, and they take only two hours! This is why we conducted the experiment, as we decided Goa would involve too long in flights with a recuperating knee or two! In that respect a real success as the journeys were ridiculously easy and stress-free!

Well, it isn't Goa! This article from The Mirror makes its case! This is still a developing country, but better than Goa in hygiene, electrical safety and manners on the road. Infrastructure, though, is not quite "there yet" and we had cuts in water supply on the majority of days . Internet speeds and availability were very erratic, many thoroughfares are not made-up and the one supermarket in town is small and under-stocked. With all of this, the wretched harassment in the streets and a dislike for the demeanour of most wrist-banded tourists we also decided that we would never be trying a Caribbean holiday, which we imagine would have many similarities! Tourists were mainly Dutch, French and British, with of course a fair number of Portuguese. Not many Germans -which is interesting, mercifully few Italians (they are all in Fuerteventura), and no Russians were heard!

"Call that a sunbed?"

"Maybe not today!"

Roll on faraway Goa in winter 2017-18, and save our neighbour CV for an occasional week! We would then choose accommodation with a pool. (There is some that is not All-Inclusive!) The reasons for this are the sea state in Jan/Feb, and the sunbed issue. There was glorious sun but a seriously strong wind. Fortunately this as a very warm wind, so sunbathing was fine if sheltered, and the sea was a good temperature but frightening rough, meaning that neither the one with vulnerable knees, nor the one with a fear of drowning felt up to real immersion. Furthermore it took us many days to find sunbeds with shade and wind-breaks that were available to the likes of us! (The 5-star Hotel Morabeza - with a very nice beach bar - offered mattresses and a prism headrest directly on the sand - getting down and up was an interesting experience for a rehabilitating geriatric, and the 5-star Odja d'Agua  rented out proper beds but in short supply and with little shade for most)

A genuinely stress-free place to hang out!

Finally we found what we were looking for at a bizarre - and seemingly older established - Funana Bar and Restaurant - which also had a "live" museum! It doubled a kite-surfing centre frequented by enthusiastic young Europeans from many nations! It is worth saying that water-sports - both serious and silly - are very big on the island; but otherwise there is not much to do or see beyond the glorious beaches! Greyrocks was not tempted by "tours", reported as "stretched", and feared more marketing opportunities!

And finally - the food bit! No surprise that everything bar fish has to be imported! The weirdest aspect of eating out for us was the pressure to eat early in the evening! It was amazingly chilly once the sun went down so tables indoors or in sheltered spots, or with patio heaters were like gold-dust, and most other punters were on the same mission. Maybe the fact that Europeans other than from UK, Ireland, Portugal and Canaries were in a time zone two hours behind home added to it! Anyway it meant seated by 6.30 pm or a long wait! Since no entertainment started till after 9pm we spent most evening with the BBC i-player!

Stewed buzio - yum!

Restaurants in Santa Maria cover about the same range as in the Canaries:- predominantly Italian in style  (if not ownership), smaller tapas places, grills doing imported meat, chicken and fish, a couple of French, one Mexican and serious fish and seafood specialists. Prices are higher however - even for the fish which can be seen be landed, traded and treated on the little jetty. Ruth liked the octopus and a stew of a local speciality: buzio, rather like thin squid when shelled, and in a rich stew.  Bob was persuaded to boneless fish on a couple of occasions and was reasonably happy! We found only decent wine - even the cheapest from a box, the local beer Strela is good and Ruth developed a taste for caipirinha  made with the cheap spirit grogue.
A bit of Portuguese oils the wheels, but service can be anything from jolly and brisk to casual and sloppy. An annoyance everywhere relates to the currency. The CVE (escudo) is "closed" and pegged to the Euro, with Euros being happily taken at parity, when the rate is about 1.11, so giving an immediate exchange profit, and change is often given escudos, compounding the gain. A bit of a taste left in the mouth!

The only "Snowflakes" in the Village?

In the Bleak Midwinter

No snow of course, but Greyrocks continues to meet the scorn of Boris, Gove and co by acting as "remoaners" and  Trump-loathers. Fifty years too old to be in the Snowflake Generation, (the political insult of 2016), but we know we are the minority here in the ex-pat community of Corralejo, so have been avoiding any contentious subjects in company.

We saw the back of 2016 in despair in the way in which we welcomed it in hope:- with lobster at the Marquesina! We were still using the wheelchair, so limited in possibilities for bridging the gap between dinner and midnight. We ended up - unsurprisingly- at Blue Rock, but didn't spend too long, and somehow Bob managed to push the chair home without mishap! Next day we were back at the Rock, which was packed. The sun shone, but the wind was bitter, so we lurked in the shelter of the (closed) bar next door -  and spent a pleasant afternoon, before cooking a pheasant for ourselves.

And still there was more Xmas to be endured! The delightful "Twelve Days" of Claire's bar decoration this year is as nothing to the Spanish Thirty-five or so! The poor weather continued until Kings Day, so we let Their Majesties' arrival from Lanzarote and evening procession proceed without us, ignored the Bank Holiday and went for a curry!

Corralejo Sports Clinic

In the meantime we took a trip to Puerto del Rosario for a check-up on the new knee. Ruth was told everything as going very well and her niggles were the result of stopping analgesia too soon and an unrealistic time-frame for recovery, "Have you seen a YouTube of the operation? - it's serious!" "Well no, but I heard a lot of it!" So getting the physiotherapy right was really important! We started by the ridiculously steep walk down to the port for lunch at El Bounty. The food was as good as usual,  but Marco had the 'flu - like so many others - and the easterly wind was bitter! Shortly thereafter Ruth changed venue for the much-needed physiotherapy. The staff at the Brisamar had been the same as last year, but the price had gone up, and the attention reduced in spite of their charm! Then the named therapist went for a three week Christmas holiday putting further pressure on the remaining one, and the only exercise bicycle could no be adjusted. Time to seek another plan! We went to the large gym near us, which has a sports clinic attached and negotiated a deal for the next few months, On the first visit within five minutes Ruth was on an adjusted bike, had been given some encouragement and had achieved a full turn of the pedals! Bliss and rapture! There followed five carefully judged exercises, TENS, an amazing spell in an automatic massage sleeve and some demanding but sensitively executed mobilisation. So much more worthwhile, and only five minutes' walk away!! Twice a week it will be!

 Greyrocks spent their last weekend of the month down in Blackpool-in-the-Sun:- Caleta de Fuste! This was to enjoy two things that can't be experienced in Corralejo:- the pantomime and restaurant 15! As a result of last year's trip we came to know and have occasional chats with Anne -the scriptwriter- who lives close to us. We were securing our tickets as soon as they went on sale! Anne told us that this year even more skill had gone into the set, make-up, costumes and choreography, and that was evident in a wonderful romp, with all the classic elements, witty improvisation and hilarity! Money made for charity, too! An annual treat for Greyrocks, and with two nights in a tourist complex we could have a great dinner as planned, and some good tapas lunches with Happy Hour over at El Capitan! Unfortunately the weather left a lot to be desired, so no sunbathing poolside or on the beach, but we had some strolls, which revealed the "grand projet" of regenerating the Caleta beach. It has always been said to be "man-made", but the amount of sand that has been brought in and is awaiting dispersal is staggering! "It will be good when it is finished!"

When we left on the Monday it rained, and we wee inclined to go straight back home on two buses, but made a quick decision that it was worth breaking the journey in order to lunch once again at El Bounty. Still cold and damp, but Marco was in better shape and the place was full. When we got home the sun was shining!

 Finally we had a great evening in a party of fifteen celebrating John's birthday (milestone minus one)! This was at La Playita by the town beach,  which is very good for such things, having a wide menu, wonderful service and enough (quite densely packed) space inside. That night there were four separate birthday parties under way, each with cake, candles and musical accompaniment. A case od "Great Minds"!
Two days later we were off to "New Territory".

2016 - Is there anything to smile about?

Not much in the opinion of liberal, internationalist, ageing-hippy Greyrocks!

We have despaired over the trouble-spots of the World: Syria, Yemen, Iraq, Turkey, Korea, the Mediterranean .....

over the propensity of people to vote for simple, selfish and dangerous solutions, as in the UK referendum, US presidential election and in rising fascism in so many European nations ....

over the impotence of international bodies to stop carnage ..

over the prospect of Trump, Putin and Boris together in positions of power ...

and as UK taxpayers - if not residents - over domestic phenomena such as an imploding prison system, breakdown in social care, employers' freedom to exploit, plummeting standards in the Press, food banks, self-perpetuating Establishment .......

Oh Dear!!! And journalists don't seem able to "join up the dots"!

And then there are the numerous deaths this year!
In the field of music we have been saddened by - and driven to extensive You-Tubing of::

David Bowie, Prince, Leonard Cohen, Dave Swarbrick, two thirds of Emerson, Lake & Palmer, George Martin, Leon Russell, George Michael, Bobby Vee  and even Rick Parfitt of Status Quo

whilst UK TV lost:
Victoria Wood, Caroline Aherene, Carla Lane, Alan Rickman and Ronnie Corbett

At a personal level Greyrocks lost Ruth's father following months of ill health, Barry - a friend living in Crete - to a heart attack at too young an age, and Tim, who lived next door for his first seventeen years and took his own life in his twenties.

And what about natural disasters, and the bizarre weather in Greyrocks' chosen habitats??

Annus horibilis doesn't begin to describe this year!

We have enjoyed good times with other ex-pats, locals and old friends on their holidays in Crete and Fuerteventura, and in our tour of England, several little parties before and after birthdays, a great Fairport Convention gig in Coventry, some fun in France, and considerable (eventual) relief in first one - and now the second - knee.

It has also been a parental pleasure to help Chloë continue to improve the Little Blue House and share the joy of her engagement to Jack, and new jobs for them both.

For 2017 is that light at the end of the tunnel, or .......?

Greyrocks recommends cava at EUR 1.95 a bottle!

"SALUD!"

What's New? A Knee and more!

The new home of  exercise and occasional agony!

December started with a couple of weeks of serious recuperation for Ruth after the operation, centred on two sessions of physiotherapy per week at the newly re-located Brisamar. "Not before time!"some might say as the old place had been crowded, dingy and seriously compromised by the works going on around it to knock down an old apartment complex, set of locales and bar, and construct a hotel in the Barcelo group. It is now opposite the Campanario Shopping Centre, and a more expensive taxi-ride away from home, but worth it! Treatment is now in the hands of Maria-Jose, who raves about the progress, but in the third week started a manipulation of total agony which meant afternoons of complete rest and a lot of analgesia! Just before Christmas a session morphed into a "fiesta" with goodies the punters had brought in.

Notwithstanding the lack of mobility Greyrocks felt driven to organise a slightly delayed party for Bob - along the lines of that held in April as an early one! Jules and Clare at The Blue Rock were given the buffet budget, Eileen produced a decorated cake and Dave and Pete played all afternoon. Apparently a few stray Italians got a share of the spoils also, but it was a huge success and - as before - Facebook users can see more of the pics on the Blue Rock page.

The weather was glorious, and it remained so for a few days more, but we are now in the midst of some strange easterly and very forceful wind which will be with us for several more days. It gave the coldest Christmas Day in the 25 that Greyrocks has now experienced on the island.

As the festive season loomed Greyrocks took delivery of a new dishwasher to replace the original which had been dying for several years and now leaked. Every effort was made to ensure it would fit the tight space, but it was 1 cm too tall and thus it sat for a week in the middle of the kitchen like an over-staying guest until clever adjustments were made by our janitor the day before Chloë  would arrive.

Both  she and  fiancé  Jack were with us for about a week , and were pretty disappointed with the weather, but pleased to be with us. Jack's decision to come was last-minute and involved landing after 7 pm on Christmas Eve, getting the economy shuttle bus and turning up for our feast around 9 pm. The crab, prawns. goose, duck, multiple veg., cheese and profiteroles went down very well. Next morning with our Bucks Fizz and smoked salmon we played Cards Against Humanity - a new one on Greyrocks - and then used the wheelchair to go to the Rock as ever! On the way back later that afternoon a wheel was caught in drain cover and Ruth fell to the ground - onto both titanium knees!  A bit of a setback in the recovery process!

The youngsters stayed with us until today and don't seem to have minded the minimal seasonality of a Greyrocks Yule (cuisine excepted).

Celebrating a long life, another new knee and the seventies!

A typical last minute post to record the month of November for Greyrocks, and what a month it was!
It opened with some visits to the capital in preparation for the knee replacement which had been scheduled for the 17th, and some health centre visits for us both and some peculiar blood results for Bob. The knee job could have been earlier but for the funeral of Ruth's father and the flights that entailed. In view of everything we decided that only Ruth would go. She was off the island for 47 hours.

A Lancaster as flown in as navigator by Vic

"Continental" friends were astounded at the passage of almost a month between death and funeral, but it was a well-organised "do" following Vic's wishes entirely.Although cold it was dry. His squadron (153) and the local Aircrew Association did a wonderful job with a guard of honour of eight veterans, several flags - including one on the coffin, representatives of the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, and a very detailed and warm tribute by a friend who had used Vic's log book as a reference. (It was Remembrance Day which seemed fitting!) 

Then David made a tribute as grandson, which was also very moving, and humorous in parts! Penny and George had prepared a glorious slide show to music with a wide selection of images. Afterwards most went on to the wake in a local hotel. This was also where the same had been done for Ruth's mother eighteen months before. All other offspring and partners were there and it was quite a family reunion. In particular Ruth had met up with Chloe at the station beforehand and also spent time with her when her train back to Bristol was delayed! Ruth flew back next day, having got very wet walking to the station, but with a pheasant from Waitrose. At Gatwick she discovered she had left the Spanish mobile in the hotel, causing all sorts of difficulties, but sister Penny posted back the SIM and it arrived yesterday morning, thus rounding off a significant summer and autumn's family rite of passage!

Ruth's home for four days

Once returned thoughts turned to the operation five days later. Plenty of people have two prostheses, but no-one Greyrocks knows, so this was uncharted territory in terms of expectation and fear. It was the same (brilliant) surgeon and team, the room was a neighbouring room and less noisy, the food was equally disappointing and the nursing and domestic care just as good as last time. Ruth stayed four nights in the hospital and then moved to the hotel for another three. Bob had been at the hotel all week. Physiotherapy started on the day of "release" and all the professionals say progress is very good indeed. At present Ruth is moving round the apartment slowly without aid, uses one crutch for short walks outside and we have a  rented wheelchair for a month for longer distances.

Being away from Corralejo meant that Bob's 70th birthday was a strange affair! There were appointments with the surgeon and for physiotherapy, but around them we managed a very fine tapas lunch by the Playa Chica, where a tiramisu with candle appeared as a birthday surprise, a shopping trip for new sofas, where a discount was granted on the same grounds, and a delightful dinner at the current No. 1 Trip Adviser restaurant, where a cheesecake with candle was offered! Not bad pickings, Eh?

A birthday reminiscent of Dead Ringers' "The Lone Yachtswoman's Christmas Party" spoof of Ellen MacArthur!! (Link being sought)

In fact the three days in the Puerto hotel were a astronomic treat. In addition to the birthday meals we had two dinners at El Bounty - about which Greyrocks has raved but is now No, 2 on TA, and a posh tapas lunch at a neighbouring Play Chica place. 


Yesterday - bang on time - the two sofas arrived and were assembled. The 14 year old old suite was taken away without ceremony, and last evening Greyrocks discovered that it is much easier to fall asleep in front of the TV on the new seating! 

"Hola!" and "Adios!"

R.I.P. Vic 1924-2016

Greyrocks arrived home in the evening and it was drizzling, but all was well in the apartment and we went over to La Luna for a drink and take-away pizza. It was much busier there than anticipated, and it had been changed drastically,  but that's another post on the subject of tourism levels! At four in the morning a mobile rang. Ruth got up and in a stupour grabbed the UK one, saw a missed call and dialled the number. It was the British Gas engineer who had visited our UK property the day before! Profound apologies! The call was in fact on the Spanish phone and was from Ruth's sister to say that their father had passed away. This was not unexpected, and in fact he had survived several weeks longer than thought possible given his weakness from inability to eat, Ruth had made five day visits in July and then in September and seen that he had little will to live in his condition. The funeral is on November 11th and has been planned by her other sister who lives nearby and had - with her husband - borne most of the responsibility for visits and support during his illness and move into residential care.

At her sisters' request Ruth wrote an obituary for the local paper of the town where he had worked for eighteen years..

He was a hard-working, intelligent and principled man who had enjoyed life right up until his wife's death and now hated his growing frailty. He said he was "ready to go"