A theme through the peak season has been changes and conflict on the northern part of the sandy beach.
For at least 25 years there has been a length of beach where naturism is tolerated (despite being technically illegal in Greece). The end points are well-understood to be two large rocks. At the far end this boundary is reinforced by two notices like this. As for many years there has also been a thriving kantina beyond the border and accessible from a car park there has been very little confusion about where clothes are required.
This year, however, there has been trouble!
First, following the fire, there were very few sunbeds and umbrellas in the "textile" area in front of the kantina ruins. Then far mre were set up and managed along the whole "naturist" length of beach. In early August following some complaints the first block of beds etc was designated "textile" by the placing of notices on posts at either end. Edmond - the fabulous sunbed man - said it would probably only be for the month. It certainly implied that naturism was at least tolerated beyond that point. Towards the end of the month those few items left at the kantina site were unceremoniously removed in the middle of the day. Nevertheless all seemed clear and everyone seemed content, but on a Sunday - when we were not on the beach at all - there was a raid! Up until five or so years ago this would happen on one August Sunday each year, but for many it was a new event! The reason was explained to us by Noreen (Irish - not Brit - sorry!) who has a great spot for her party under the tree near the kantina site. It seems a Greek-Canadian had been getting increasingly agitated about unwanted views of dangly bits and was raving about all the depravity with which this was - in her mind - clearly associated. It is she or partner who re-painted the sign! She rang the mayor and/or Port Police, who had to do something. They spoke to everyone who was even topless and would take no pleas about "custom and practice" or "toleration". They did not however come back, and normality soon resumed. Later in the week they repeated the process causing further distress to the simply topless who just like that bit of shore!
We don't know where the mayor actually stands on this. One look at the numbers involved in the context of falling tourism ought to bring all to their senses, and presumably next year with a functioning kantina there will be more clarity about it all.