Thursday 22 July 2010

Rejoice - it is risen!

Yesterday - with no notice - and 25 months after the last was destroyed by fire - a new cantina opened at the end of sandy beach! It is not quite clear who is involved and in what role. Certainly several members of the extended family living in our apartment block have an interest in it and were there in the afternoon and evening. We have been asking about the opening date and getting evasive answers since we arrived. We can report that it is currently running from a generator, the beer is cold, the white wine is very drinkable, and they produce souvlakia and chips!






There are a few other changes in town. We have lost the wally-trolley - and no-one seems to mind! The ferry Samaria has been declared unfit and is moored in the commercial harbour. The schedule for the ferry with  the new boat (name Bob has seen but couldn't read!) is unclear, and it seems to mean fewer services direct to and from Gavdos. Meanwhile at the Skala port we have a new ship. Plenty of masts and rigging! No sails! It is available for private charter, and does trips somewhere, sometimes ... but we have yet to hear real detail, other than of a Dutch woman who was a deck passenger and was sick for nine hours having paid 70 euros.

We miss the Calypso. Barry and Jenny had to close it when the bureaucratic status became clear. They are both now working in local kitchens. See Barry's blog for more. There don't seem to be many other catering openings or closings, although Suzi and Olga (that's not Dr Olga from NI!) are now fully in charge at The Seagull, and have themed evenings. Mima nd Giorgos (ex-cantina) have closed their grill house on the front and it is now an elegant bar called Thalassa - run by Mikaelis (cake shop)'s son Giorgos.

The old Livicon hotel - long disused and unloved has been beautifully restored and is to be occupied by the town council. We assume this work was part of a deal which has seen our first 5* (mm!) hotel, which has just opened next door to it. Last year the talk was of a huge complex with shopping mall - probably all-inclusive - and underground car park. Surprise, surprise.. the Paleo rumour-mill had overdone it! The Lybian Princess is a much more modest enterprise - without even a restaurant other than for breakfast. There have been consequent improvements to the area near The Wave - with several rooms blocks looking better and having better views.

We were apprehensive about what we would see from our balcony, following worrying reports about the "monstrocity" being constructed beside us. Jenny witnessed the dramatic start in March 2009. It is now reaching completion as 5 or 6 apartments for sale. In fact a ground floor one is already occupied. The period of tiling floors and many walls was not one to be relished apparently - but we have only suffered fitting of windows and air-conditioners. Each day a new delight - including some turf that is no way going to survive! Our glorious bougainvillea has been strategically re-arrangd to give some privacy to us on the balcony whilst still affording an oblique sea view. The developer (not popular hereabouts!) has been grabbing what he thinks are rich Northern Europeans and offering them an apartment for a mere 210K euros. We think we have been spared this because we are so scruffy! They are, however, all sold according to our sources.

And what you ask of the street works? The main main street (crossroads to Stavros the barbers) has not been touched - so is passable but with some raised covers and medium-sized holes, but the top (church to crossroads) has had the full treament and shows us the future! This involves levelling pavement with road (even if some trees get felled) and a total cobbling - with occasional large circular mosaics. There are more of these down near the town hall - but there we have some odd stuff going on with rumours of the blessed water feature and a peripatetic periptero (kiosk).We also Chania-style street lamps that never get switched on.

Chez nous the prettifications are regarded as moderately tasteful, but unneccesary.

... and on the subject of blowing hot and cold Ruth has had three days of prickly heat in the arm-pits, following from some very, very hot days and nights. It could drive you to drink - a good job beer at the cantina is only 2 euros a bottle!