Up. down and blowing all around:- month 1 in Paleo!

We have spent our first month here now, and not very much has happened - which is how Greyrocks likes it! "Events" - however - are inevitable and here - with a spoiler warning as ever - is the chronicle:

Bizarre Weather:
The Donald may deny climate change, but here it is blooming obvious! Since 23rd June we have had three phases of extreme heat, by which is meant two or more days with a temperature over 40C, three separate spells of winds reaching Force 6, an earthquake along the coast to the east, and two days with - yes - cloud! On Wednesday evening and yesterday it almost rained! And whilst it might not have actually done so (although it did in Chania and down as far as Kandanos) the humidity has been staggering:- fraying tempers and slowing up all activity! Up at the cantina Tanya asked one of the very many Norwegians for a translation, caused hilarity and this is now part of daily conversation!

And on the subject of "foreign" languages and the weather:

"Poula -meteorologicos!!"

Click here for the relevant Fast Show clip!

When on Friday Force 7 wind was being forecast it was time for action! We booked a hotel in Chania for two nights and travelled by bus - but more of that trip later!

Prettification of the side streets

For the first two weeks of our stay there were diversions and dust wherever one tried to go in the village. The attractive road surfacing, concealment of wiring and installation of fancy lamps that was completed last year for most of the length of the main street has been extended into the parallel street (containing The Small Garden, Glaros Hotel etc) and connecting alleys. In an ideal world this would have been over and done with before July, but it now is, further extension is on hold, and the visual effect is good, although Joep willingly points out the lamps that block canopies and the tactile strip for the visually impaired that leads straight into parked cars!
There has also been a "kerfuffle" about the police station, which was to be re-located to Kandanos, but has now undergone its own prettification!

Visitors Assorted!

There was excitement when a flash vessel was seen first on one side and then on the other!  A search revealed it was "Blind Date" - allegedly one of the most expensive super-yachts.

Also back were the Argentinian globe-trotters who stayed two years ago with a young baby and motor-bike with sidecar. This time they have a car and active toddler and are just back from "The Stans". They set up shop and display on the "Stony Boulevard".

Two of our favourite individual street musicians have made brief visits: the Argentinian classical guitarist and the lyra player from Sitia. The "dancer with a mannequin" has had a few outings.

Also working hard every evening are three duo/trios with various instruments playing Greek music. We looked out for the best of these - with a brilliant bouzouki player - to discover his partner is being wheeled round after a very nasty road accident. Hope they are fit for the wedding next year!

And in parallel with Greyrocks chess players were here for their tenth July.

Live Rock 

When we first arrived the only publicity was for an Elvis (slightly) look-alike, which did not bode well! The following week - having taken Yvette for a spin to Gramenon and suffered disappointment in the wedding department - we went up to Pearl Cavo. This is the old Paleochora Club next to the campsite, which was managing some sort of rejigged existence last year. Its beach-side setting is glorious, and whilst old-timers bemoan that so much is now under cover - it has been vert tastefully decorated and is even developing a reputation for early evening food! Transport is an issue, of course, but the same old minibus as has seen folks we know brought safely back in various states at appalling hours has had a paint-job and is still - as we found out later that day - in service! On our visit we met Panos (ex-Atoli) and had a chat.
He mentioned there would be live music of some sort that evening and every Wednesday, and when we later asked a member of staff about it he gave us a tiny flyer for Change House. This is one of the Chania bands in which the son of our old late hero Angelos plays bass, so we had to attend!

There had been no publicity whatsoever in the village, and the minibus driver seemed amazed that we wanted a lift there. For over an hour there was an estimated total of five punters and no action, but eventually it all got going and was very good indeed - including a female vocalist, sax, keyboard and a varied repertoire. The wine wasn't over-priced, a waiter from FYROM swore he knew us of old, and we dragged the driver out from his hiding place to take us back to the port. A great evening. The same band is to play at Atoli tomorrow (with some publicity)!

Atoli has started its own gentle programme of rock, with our first visit being to see Flush Royale. This was very well-attended and very competent, although they do charge a lot for the wine on music nights! Two nights in the same week - this couldn't go on.. and it didn't! But we have enjoyed several pleasant sessions down at Monica's Kafenion with Kissamos John, Mats and others. Not rock -but pretty good! The place is now adorned with a huge illuminated model of a guitar, but the future is unclear as Monica herself is off to manage the Irish bar in Chania!

Flags Out!
As usual it took until mid-July for the Blue Flag to be hoisted on the Sandy Beach. That on the Stony had been there from earlier. The municipality's five beaches have received the same awards as last year, so a sign was installed to indicate the end of the control are for the Sandy. As last year it had collapsed and been removed in less than a week! Not much has changed in terms of beach life, except for more replacement of many canvas parasols by permanent wood and foliage ones and more very thick sunbed mattresses available on the busy section. The cantina has some new wooden furniture. Entry to the sea on our part of the beach is better than last year! (Fingers crossed!)

Eateries
Again, little chance to report! A small pizza & pasta place has replaced the ouzeri next to the pharmacy. It looks like pre-fabricated fare and their tables are intrusive on the main street, so it's not on the Greyrocks list! Kapetan Dimitri has changed hands and is now run by a familiar Romanian face, whilst Dimitri himself is now the chef at the Crocodile. Castro up past the church is now fully operational. It has not  yet had an inspection visit by us!

Tragedies
Finally, this month has seen (in close succession) two ghastly accidents to locals which reflect on the less jolly side of Cretan life. A 15-year old was killed in a moped crash (his own!), and a middle-aged man was accidentally shot by his own father.

Otherwise life goes on!