Goan Places!

We hope you had one - if it is relevant - as it was over the weekend (26th January)
Greyrocks is currently- once again - for the seventh time -  in Palolem, South Goa! We have been down here for  a week and previously were in Benaulim, which is also in the South Goa region but nearer the airport. As the end of the month approaches it is time to document the journey here, the week in "Beni", and our first few days in "Pali" up to and including Republic Day.

Our route here was devised to avoid two places with which we have had bad experiences: Mumbai and London! So we set out on the afternoon Vueling flight to Barcelona. We were worried about inadequate clothing and indeed the early evening walk from terminal to shuttle stop was chilly; but  the minibus was waiting and everything for the overnight was easy.

Our outward route was two connecting Qatar Airways flights all the way to Dabolim in Goa with a few hours in Doha. (We would be returning differently, which was the cause of our only check-in hitch as a flight out of India must be documented and all we had to hand was an email message on the tablet!) This was followed by a ghastly experience at the e-passport contraption for Bob, and a rather long wait at the gate as the flight was delayed; but on-board we realised that Economy was only about one-fifth full, and Ruth had a line of three seats including a window, and Bob had an empty seat to his side. It was a good flight with decent food, and later some red wine could be solicited, but Bob was completely underwhelmed by the films. (Ruth watched the box set of Vanity Fair and was happy enough!) The route taken was the result of the Saudi ban on over-flying and- as can be seen - involved the length of the Med (over Crete!) and a series of the region's trouble spots.
Ruth had worked five long weeks in Qatar in 2006, and vowed never to return - but needs must, and the new Hamad Airport (how many Asian men died in its construction?) is worthy of a civilised country! We passed though Transfer security without encountering any Qatari men with attitude problems, and without being segregated by gender. So far, so good: the visitors to the (corruptly awarded) World Cup might not want to turn round and go home! But GBP 23 for two beers might change their mind!

In contrast the second flight was almost full, and felt cramped, but it worked, the red wine supply ran out and it landed on time; then "bliss and rapture" - no Immigration chaos. This alone takes the route to the top of the list over Mumbai options! The fingerprint thingy still didn't work for Ruth, but compassion was shown and we set about killing time to a more sound hour (this was 3 am local) and finding out what had happened that evening  in the UK parliament. Then - after a Whoop! we took a taxi anyway and were welcomed despite the hour and helped to a room just like last year's. We got to bed at 5 am.

Flying India's colours on Beni Beach

The week in Benaulim resembled that of last year -except that we were no longer "Greyrocks No Mates"! Back in Crete we had been introduced at the cantina to Nick and Theresa, and found quickly we were on the same wavelength. We had previously decided to do the Beni week again in 2019, and it all fitted with their regular long stay there.Thus after a day of recovery and a short paddle in the delicious sea, we met at their favoured shack, and were there most days at some time - often for a tasty light lunch! We always found sunbeds there - with space around them, and generally quiet neighbours! The sea entry is very easy. We also had dinner with them on two occasions at places we had not found last year and would probably not have done so this time without their advice! Both excellent and likely to feature on Ruth's trip Advisor list one day! The compare and contrast between Beni and Pali needs reference to last year's post, but in essence it is about the nature of the beach and hence the sense of space and scope for peace and quiet on it, the presence of a few more facilities because of the size of the town/village, and the "tribes" who take holidays there! According to Greyrocks there are three in Beni: retired Brit returners/long-stayers - fairly well-travelled and committed to the place, other (younger) Brits on packages who can ruin an evening in a restaurant, and Russian families who can also do so and show no respect for waiting staff! Palolem has plenty of the first (including Greyrocks of course), but very few of the second and third! We also have young back-packers from all over - bringing live music, and the Russians  that do come tend to be day-trippers and disappear in the evening. We enjoyed the week a lot and will repeat, but it was time to move on.

'Shame about the fuzziness - must be the Kingfisher!

The nice man at our accommodation booked a taxi for us at a great price and we travelled down in luxury. We installed ourselves in the same room as last year and little had changed there, except for two new eateries on the doorstep. (A review of "changes" will follow) We were soon down at The Office (Nest) meeting folk not seen in most cases since 2015)

So far this week we have been to three live music gigs and two films. Republic Day happened causing an upsurge in Indian groups in the sea, with the attendant lifeguard paranoia and whistling! On the day itself we went for a lunchtime walk and attempted a shortcut back to the beach from the main road. It worked but brought us out a long-established beach shack which was full of young men and a few women in matching tee-shirts. There was even a film crew! Over several Kingfishers we discovered this was the Bangalore Motorcycle Club at play. They were on their fourth "Ride to the Coast" - a ten hour trip of 600 kilometres. Now that's Goan Places!